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UNIVERSITY  OF..  CALIFORNIA. ... 

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LANDSCAPE  GARDENING 


AS   APPLIED    TO 


HOME   DECORATION, 


BY 

SAMUEL  T.   MAYNARD, 

Professor  of  Botany  a)id  Horticulture  at  the  Massachusetts 

Agricultural  College,  "Botanist  to  the  Massachusetts 

State  Board  of  Agriculture,'"  Secretary  of 

the  Massachusetts  Fruit-growers' 

Association,  etc. 


FIRST  EDITION. 
FIRST  THOUSAND. 


NEW  YORK: 

JOHN  WILEY  &   SONS. 

LONDON:    CHAPMAN  &  HALL,  LIMITED. 

1899, 


M 


Copyright,  1899, 

BY 

SAMUEL  T.  MAYNARD. 


ROBERT   DRUMMOND,    PRINTER,    NEW   YORK. 


To  the  thousands  of  home-makers  who  are  trying  to 
beautify  their  homes  and  thus  adding  much  to  our  already 
beautiful  and  prosperous  country  this  little  book  is  dedi- 
cated with  the  hope  that  it  may  aid  many  in  the  pursuit  of 
knowledge  of  the  most  beautiful  trees,  shrubs ,  and  plants 
and  how  to  plant,  train,  and  care  for  them  so  as  to  get  the 
most  enjoyment  from  their  growth  and  cultivation. 


INTRODUCTION. 


IN  no  country  in  the  world  are  there  so  many  well-to-do 
people  as  in  the  United  States,  and  so  many  who  own  com- 
fortable and  even  beautiful  homes,  and  on  every  hand  we 
hear  the  call  for  information  as  to  the  most  beautiful 
decorative  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants  and  their  proper  use 
and  arrangement  to  produce  the  most  pleasing  effects.  The 
enormous  trade  in  ornamental  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants 
among  our  nurserymen  is  an  indication  of  the  extent  of  the 
work  of  improvement  and  decoration  that  is  going  on  among 
our  people  and  the  consequent  need  of  knowledge  and  skill 
in  order  to  make  the  best  use  of  these  materials. 

The  agricultural  and  horticultural  press  of  the  country 
has  done  much  and  is  increasing  its  efforts  to  diffuse  the 
needed  knowledge.  The  nurserymen  and  dealers  in  orna- 
mentals by  their  catalogues  so  profusely  illustrated  and 
scattered  broadcast  over  the  land  are  also  helping  on  the 
good  work,  though  in  many  cases  by  their  undue  praise  of 
untried  novelties  they  often  lead  the  unskilled  planter  to 
make  serious  mistakes  and  great  loss. 

Landscape  gardeners  and  architects  have  played  a  large 
and  important  part  in  developing  the  great  beauty  seen  in 
so  many  of  our  country  and  suburban  towns;  the  great 
majority  of  our  people,  however,  those  in  limited  circum- 
stances who  are  straining  every  effort  to  pay  for  the  home 


yi  INTRODUCTION. 

they  are  building,  are  unable  to  avail  themselves  of  their 
often  costly  advice,  but  must  content  themselves  with 
obtaining  from  other  sources  such  knowledge  as  will  enable 
them  to  properly  care  for  the  ornamental  trees,  shrubs,  or 
plants  that  they  may  be  able  to  procure,  and  to  so  group 
and  combine  them  with  the  lawn,  the  dwelling  and  other 
buildings,  and  with  the  surrounding  conditions  as  to  make 
not  only  a  beautiful  home-picture,  but  also  to  harmonize 
with  any  beautiful  homes  or  estates  adjoining  or  near  by, 
that  the  beauty  may  be  as  widespread  as  possible. 

While  thus  supplying  the  above  call  for  knowledge  in  a 
concise  and  practical  way  has  been  the  central  idea  in  the 
construction  of  this  book,  the  instructions  in  the  principles 
of  growth  and  care,  grouping  and  arrangement,  underlying 
successful  work  in  home  ornamentation  are  equally  adapted 
to  the  more  extended  work  of  decorating  large  estates, 
parks,  and  other  public  grounds,  and  some  few  hints  are 
given  as  to  the  management  of  public  squares,  school-yards, 
cemeteries,  the  construction  of  country  roads,  and  roadside 
improvements. 

It  has  been  the  author's  aim  to  give  plain  and  simple 
descriptions  of  each  tree,  shrub,  or  plant  recommended,  to 
present  those  that  are  of  real  value  under  ordinary  condi- 
tions, and  to  give  full  and  careful  direction  as  to  soil  best 
adapted  to  the  growth  of  each,  and  the  special  care,  train- 
ing, pruning,  etc.,  required  for  their  best  growth. 

In  presenting  this  book  to  the  public  it  is  with  the  view 
of  supplying  the  knowledge  so  much  needed  and  sought  for 
in  a  practical,  condensed  form  that  shall  enable  the  home- 
owner and  -builder,  occupied  with  the  daily  cares  of  busi- 
ness, to  make  beautiful  his  surroundings;  and  the  author 
hopes  that,  after  more  than  20  years  of  experience  in  teach- 


ACKNOWLEDGMENTS.  Vll 

ing  and  practising  the  art  of  ornamental  gardening,  he  may 
he  able  to  fill  in  a  measure  this  long-felt  want. 

Many  imperfections  will,  no  doubt,  be  found  in  the  work, 
for  which  kind  indulgence  and  friendly  criticism  is  asked, 
that  such  imperfections  may  be  remedied  in  a  revised 
edition  at  an  early  date. 

S.  T.  M. 

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS. 

THE  author  wishes  to  acknowledge  his  indebtedness  to 
those  who  have  kindly  assisted  him  in  the  preparation  of 
this  work,  and  especially  to 

The  "  Country  Gentleman,"  Albany,  N.  Y.,  for  the  loan 
of  woodcuts  of  Figs.  3  and  4. 

ELLWANGER  &  BARRY,  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  for  the  loan 
of  electros  of  Figs.  78,  80,  85,  96,  98,  99,  100,  103,  106, 
108,  and  125. 

THOMAS  MEEHAN  &  SONS,  Germantown,  Philadelphia, 
Pa.,  for  assistance  in  obtaining  electros  and  the  loan  of 
Figs.  92  and  101. 

F.  R.  PIERSON  Co.,  Tarry town-on-Hudson,  N.  Y.,  for 
the  loan  of  electro  of  Fig.  16. 

HENRY  A.  DREER,  Philadelphia,  Pa.,  for  assistance  in 
obtaining  electros  and  the  loan  of  Fig.  146. 

CHAS.  A.  GREEN,  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  and  THE  J.  T, 
LOVETT  Co.,  Little  Silver,  N.  J.,  for  assistance  in  obtain- 
ing electros. 

The  Entomological  Division  of  the  Department  of  Agri- 
culture, Washington,  D.  C.,  for  electros,  specific  acknowl- 
edgments of  which  have  been  made  elsewhere. 

The  New  Hampshire  Agricultural  Experiment  Station 
for  the  loan  of  electro  of  Fig.  48. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

INTRODUCTION v 

CHAPTER  I. 

LANDSCAPE  GARDENING  AND  HOME  ORNAMENTATION 1 

Advantages  of  Home  Ornamentation.  Natural  vs.  the 
Artificial  System. 

CHAPTER  H. 

ORNAMENTING   NEW  HOMES 6 

Conditions  of  Locations  Considered.  Secure  and  Improve 
Strongly  Marked  Natural  Features.  Location  of  Buildings. 
Architecture  of  tlie  House.  Tlie  Cellar  and  its  Use.  Heating 
and  Ventilating  the  House. 

CHAPTER  III. 

PREPARATION  OF  THE  LAND 28 

Grading.  Making  the  Lawn.  Fertilizing  and  Care  of  the 
Lawn. 

CHAPTER  IV. 

TREES — THEIR  PLANTING  AND  CARE 43 

Importance  of  Trees  and  Shrubs.  Improving  Old  Trees. 
Preparation  of  Trees  for  Planting.  Planting  and  Care  of 
Trees.  The  Arrangement  or  Grouping.  Rules  for 
Grouping. 

iz 


TABLE   OF   CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  V. 

PAGE 

SHRUBS,  HEDGES,  AND  HARDY  CLIMBERS 76 

Methods  of  Grouping.  Preparation  of  Land  and  Plant- 
ing. Pruning  and  Care  of  Shrubs.  Hedges  :  their 
Importance.  Pruning  and  Training  Hedges.  Hardy  Woody- 
Clirnbers  :  their  Importance — Planting  and  Care  of  Herba- 
ceous Plants  :  their  Importance  and  Use.  Tender  Foliage 
or  Flowering  Plants. 

CHAPTER  VI. 

WALKS  AND  DRIVES 89 

Importance.    Extent,  Width,  and  Distance.     Construction. 

CHAPTER   VII. 

RENOVATING  AND  IMPROVING  OLD  HOMES 97 

Preserving  and  Improving  Old  Trees.  Renewing  Old 
Shrubs  and  Hedges.  Renovating  Old  Lawns.  Removal  of 
Fences  and  Walls.  Farm  Home  Decoration.  Combine 
Decoration  and  Forestry.  Fruit-trees  for  Ornaments. 
Construction  of  Farm  Roads. 

CHAPTER   VIII. 

COUNTRY  ROADS  AND  ROADSIDE  IMPROVEMENTS Ill 

Conditions  Necessary  for  Good  Roads.  Broken  Stone 
Roads.  Repairing  Roads.  Care  of  Roadside  Trees  and 
Shrubs. 

CHAPTER  IX. 

PARKS,  PUBLIC  SQUARES,  SCHOOL  YARDS,  ETC 124 

Suggestions  as  to  Parks,  Public  Squares,  School- Yard 
Decoration.  Cemetery  Decoration.  Renovating  Old  Ceme- 
teries. 


TABLE   OF   CONTENTS.  XI 


CHAPTER  X. 

PAGE 

DESCRIPTION  OF  TREES 136 

Street  and  Avenue  Trees.  Upright  or  Round-headed 
Trees.  Weeping  Trees.  Trees  with  Deeply  Cut  Foliage. 
Trees  with  Colored  Foliage. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

EVERGREEN  TREES 180 

Importance  in  Home  Ornamentation.     Transplanting  and- 
Pruning.     Best  Varieties. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

ORNAMENTAL  SHRUBS .  190 

How  to  Use  with  Best  Effect.  Transplanting,  Pruning,  etc. 
Best  Varieties  of  Evergreen  Shrubs.  Importance  of  Climb- 
ing Shrubs.  Best  Varieties  of  Climbing  Shrubs.  Hedge 
Plants. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

HARDY  HERBACEOUS  PLANTS,  TENDER  BEDDING  AND  CLIMB- 
ING  PLANTS,  ETC 228 

Transplanting  and  Care.  Best  Varieties.  Tender  Bedding 
Plants — Best  Varieties.  Tender  Climbing  Plants — Best 
Varieties.  Sub-tropical  Plants— Treatment ;  Best  Varieties. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

AQUATIC  PLANTS,  HARDY  FERNS,  AND  ORNAMENTAL  GRASSES. 
Soil  and  Cultivation  for  Aquatic  Plants.    Best  Varieties. 
Aquatic  Border  Plants — Best  Varieties.     Hardy  Ferns — Use 
and  Care  of ;  Best  Varieties.     Ornamental  Grasses— Impor- 
tance and  Care  of. 


Xll  TABLE   OF   CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    XV. 

PAGE 

INSECTS  INJURIOUS  TO  ORNAMENTALS 261 

Amount  of  Injury  done  by  Insects.  Remedies  and  Preven- 
tives from  Injury  by  Insects.  Insecticides  and  iheir  Use. 
Fungi  Injurious  to  Ornamentals.  Rusts,  Smuts,  Mildews, 
Blights,  etc.  Fungicides  and  their  Use.  Spraying  Pumps 
and  Nozzles  and  their  Use. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

THE  HOME  FRUIT  GARDEN 289 

Amount  and  Kind  of  Land  Needed.  Location.  Planting 
and  Caring  for  Fruit-trees  and  Plants.  Protection  from 
Insects  and  Fungous  Pests.  The  Best  Varieties  of  Each 
Kind  for  Home  Use. 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTEATIONS. 


1.  Frontispiece 1 

2,  3.  Arrangement  of  rocks 11 

4.  "            "     - 12 

5.  Underground  overflow  of  lakelet 13 

6.  Open                       "         "     "         13 

7.  Buildings  arranged  on  one  side  of  lot 16 

8.  9.  Method  of  obtaining  grade 30 

10.  Well  about  trees  with  deeply  covered  roots 31 

11.  Roots  of  trees  covered  on  one  side 32 

12.  Improper  grading  about  dwelling 33 

13.  Grading  to  pleasing  outline 34 

14.  15,  16.  Grading  with  curved  surface 35 

18.  A  perfectly  formed  tree 46 

17,  19.  Trees  as  found  by  roadside 46 

20,  21.       "      "      "       "         "         47 

22.  Pruning  of  trees 47 

23.  "        "     "     48 

24.  Clustered  growth  of  top  of  young  tree 48 

25.  An  old  tree  headed  back 49 

26.  Arrangement  of  trees  along  narrow  streets 52 

27.  Group  of  trees 63 

28.  "         "      "    and  shrubs 68 

29.  Trees  planted  in  too  formal  manner. .  „ 68 

30.  "          "        "  natural  groups 68 

31.  32.  Trees  and  shrubs  grouped  along  walks 69 

33.  "       "         "       planted  to  obtain  vistas 70 

34.  "       "        "            "         "      "          "     71 

35.  Effect  of  screen-trees  at  different  distances 72 

36.  Trees  and  shrubs  grouped  at  gateway 73 

37.  38.  "      "         "            "        on  crown  of  rounded  surface 74 

xiii 


LIST   OF    ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PAGE 


FIG. 

39.  Trees  and  shrubs  grouped  at  branching  of  walk  or  drive..  .  78 

40,41."      "         "  "        at  end  or  turn  of  walk  or  drive  ..  78 

42,  43.  Cutting  back  of  hedges  ..............................  82 

44,  45,  46.  Forms  of  hedges  .................................  83 

47.  Pruning  hedges  ........................................  83 

48.  Vine-covered  cottage  ....................................  85 

49.  "     on  cottage  pruned  .................................  87 

50.  Combined  walk  and  drive  ................   .  .   ...........  91 

51.  Semicircular  walk  or  drive  ..................  ,  ...........  91 

52.  Method  of  obtaining  curves  ..............................  93 

53.  54.  Section  of  walk  showing  drainage  ...................  94 

55.  Results  of  too  close  planting  ----  .  ........................  96 

56,  57.  Shrubs  divided  and  pruned  for  planting.  ...  ...........  98 

58.  Pruning  shrubs  or  hedges  ..............................  98 

59.  Covering  up  bank  wall  .................................  102 

60.  Turf  against  stone  wall  ............  .....................  103 

600.  A  roadside  picture.  ..    .................................  120 

61.  Section  of  ordinary  country  road  ........................  113 

62.  "       "  macadam  or  broken-stone  road  ..............  ».  113 

63.  A  properly  constructed  road-bar  ..........................  116 

64.  An  improperly  constructed  road-bar  ......................  116 

65.  "  "         gravelled  road  ............................  114 

66.  A  properly  "  "    ...........................  115 

67.  68.  Arrangements  of  school-yards  ........................  128 

69.  "  "  "         ........................  129 

70.  City  street  without  trees  .......  .........................  134 

71.  A  well-decorated  city  street.  ........  .....................  136 

72.  American  elm  ..........................................  138 

73.  Silver  maple  ...........................................  138 

74    Red  oak,  pruned  ...................  ....................  139 

75.  Japanese  maple  ............  .  ...........................  145 

76.  Catalpa  speciosa.  ....  ...................  ..............  148 

77.  White-fringe  ...........................................  150 

78.  Flowering  dogwood  ...................................  151 

79.  English  hawthorn  .....................................  152 

80.  Soulange's  magnolia  ....................................  156 

81.  Oak-leaved  mountain  ash  ...................  ,  ...........  159 

82    Whiteoak  ..........................  .  .................  160 

83.  Pin  or  swamp  oak  ......................................  162 

84.  Cut-leaved  weeping  maple  ...........  ,  ..................  165 

85.  "  "         birch  ...........................  ....  166 

86.  Weeping  beech  ...............  ,  .........................  168 


LIST   OF    ILLUSTRATIONS.  XV 

710.  PAGE 

87.  Weeping  mulberry J 169 

88.  Camperdown  elin .* /.  y*''. 170 

89    Rivers'  purple  beech /.    175 

90.  Colorado  blue  spruce ».^fi. 179 

91.  Nordmann's  fir C. 180 

92.  Austrian  pine 

93.  Japanese  cypress. .j.* 182 

94.  Siberian  arbor- vitae .f. .. . /Xy. . 184 

95.  Japanese  azalea jR^s^g^^gJfc*^. 187 

96.  Barberry,  fruit ffffi.*r-™K.*?.£\ 188 

97.  Sweet  pepper-busb. .  .^/lu.V.ERSI.T.Y.  1 189 

98.  Variegated  dogwood. 

99.  Japan  quince *S. 192 

100.  Weigelarosea '}£...#..  .1 193 

101.  Exochorda  grandiflonL  .*....} 194 

102.  Golden-bell \ * 195 

103.  Hardy  hydrangia .\ , 197 

104.  Calycanthus.   X 198 

105.  Mock-orange \ 199 

106.  "  large-floweredX 200 

107.  Purple-fringe  (smoke-tree)  A. 200 

108.  Bridal-wreath .\ 202 

109.  Van  Houtt's  spiraea \ 204 

110.  Japanese  snowball l 205 

111.  Bedding-roses .\ 208 

112.  Moss-rose 208 

113.  Climbing  rose 209 

114  Japanese  rose 210 

115.  Rhododendron  Catawbiense .- 212 

116.  Vine-covered  cottage  in  June 213 

117.  "  "       "  April 214 

118.  Japanese  woodbine 214 

119.  Clematis  Jackmanii,  C.  Henryii,  C.  paniculata 215 

120.  Japanese  honeysuckle 216 

121.  Chinese  wistaria ., 217 

122.  Trumpet-creeper 218 

123.  Cut-leaved  paeony 225 

124.  Garden  phlox 224 

125.  Moss-pink 225 

126.  Hollyhock 226 

127.  Columbine ..  .  227 


XVI  LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS. 

FIG.  PAGE 

128.  English  daisy 228 

129.  Lily-of-the-valley 229 

130.  Carnation-pink 230 

131.  Plantain-lily 231 

132.  Hardy  sunflower 232 

133.  Japanese  iris 233 

134.  Oriental  poppy 234 

135.  Pansy 235 

136.  English  violet 236 

137.  Yucca 237 

138.  Golden-banded  lily 238 

139.  Dutch  bulbs 240 

140.  Sweet  pea 241 

141.  Canna ' 243 

142.  Castor  bean 244 

143.  Caladium 245 

144.  Papyrus,  reed  paper-plant 246 

145.  Abyssinian  banana 247 

146.  An  aquatic  garden 249 

147.  East  Indian  lotus 251 

148.  Rose-flowered  water-lily 253 

149.  Purple  African  water-lily 254 

150.  Water-poppy 255 

151.  Parrot's-feather 257 

152.  Pampas-grass 259 

153.  Japanese  plume-grass. .......; 260 

154.  Elm-beetle 270 

155.  Elm-scale 271 

156.  Maple-borer .   273 

157.  Canker-worm 274 

158.  "        " 275 

159.  Round-headed  apple -borer.'' 275 

160.  Flat-headed  apple-borer 276 

161.  Peach-borer 276 

162.  Rose-bug  or  -chafer 277 

163.  Rose-slug 278 

164.  Oyster-shell  scale 281 

165.  San  Jose  scale 282 

166.  Maple-scale 284 

167.  Plan  of  fruit-garden 280 

168.  "     "strawberry-bed 311 


LANDSCAPE  GARDENING. 


CHAPTER  I. 

LANDSCAPE  GARDENING   AND  HOME  DECORATION 
COMPARED. 

THE  term  "landscape  gardening"  properly  is  applied 
in  the  more  extended  meaning  of  the  words  to  that  larger 
work  of  making  and  decorating  extensive  estates,  parks, 
etc.,  where  distant  views  (landscapes)  may  be  obtained 
within  their  limits  and  by  the  work  of  the  gardener  or 
landscape  artist. 

Very  little  of  this  kind  of  work  can  be  done  in  this 
country  because  of  the  small  areas  owned  by  most  of  our 
people,  and  the  term  "home  decoration"  or  "home  land- 
scape gardening  "  will  more  properly  apply  to  most  of  the 
work  done  among  us  in  this  line.  Yet  when  we  consider 
that  outside  the  limits  of  cities  and  large  towns  there  are 
large  and  extended  views  which  even  the  owner  of  the 
smallest  estate  may  take  in  or  shut  out  at  will  in  the 
arrangement  of  his  own  decorative  trees  and  shrubs,  the 
work  of  home  decoration  becomes  in  a  true  sense  land- 
scape gardening. 

We  can  and  do  to  a  greater  or  less  extent  include  the 


2  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

whole  landscape  in  the  decoration  of  all  home  grounds  if 
we  wish  to  obtain  the  best  results.  There  is  hardly  a 
country  or  suburban  home  so  shut  in  as  not  to  afford  some 
scope  for  the  appropriation  of  outside  vistas  of  beauty 
beyond  its  limits,  and  in  many  cases  views  for  miles  around 
may  be  found  and  improved  or  toned  down  or  heightened 
by  careful  treatment  in  our  own  planting;  and  in  more 
closely  planted  districts,  by  mutual  understanding  and  co- 
operation, the  real  art  of  landscape  gardening  may  have  as 
broad  scope  as  in  the  park  and  large  estate. 

Knowledge  of  Materials. 

Before  considering  so  large  a  subject  in  detail,  the  neces- 
sity must  be  urged  upon  the  reader  of  becoming  thoroughly 
familiar  with  the  materials  to  be  used — i.e.,  the  ornamental 
trees,  shrubs,  plants,  grass,  rock,  etc. — for  until  this 
knowledge  is  obtained  it  will  be  a  very  difficult  matter  to 
begin  the  work  understandingly  or  to  carry  it  out  to  suc- 
cessful results. 

In  Chapter  X  will  be  found  a  full  description  of  all  the 
most  beautiful  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants,  their  most  appro- 
priate use,  the  soil  best  suited  to  their  growth,  the  special 
treatment  they  each  require,  and  in  Chapter  XV  the  dis- 
eases and  insect  pests  they  are  subject  to,  with  remedies  for 
the  same.  Frequent  reference  will  be  made  to  these 
chapters,  and  for  a  full  understanding  of  each  case  it  will 
be  advisable  to  give  these  references  full  consideration. 

A  Plan. 

Before  any  one,  skilled  or  unskilled,  begins  to  decorate  a 
place,  no  matter  how  small,  he  must  have  some  plan  for 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING    AND    HOME    DECORATION.        3 

the  work,  and  the  more  complete  and  fully  matured  that 
plan  the  better. 

Many  individuals  who  have  a  special  love  for  the  beauti- 
ful in  nature,  who  are  familiar  with  a  large  number  of  the 
most  beautiful  trees,  shrubs,  etc.,  and  have  studied  the 
effects  of  their  varying  forms,  size,  and  colors,  and  who  are 
about  to  build  a  home,  are  qualified  to  make  a  satisfactory 
plan  for  themselves,  and  a  large  amount  of  pleasure  may  be 
the  result  of  this  work. 

This  study  of  art  and  nature  is  one  of  the  best  kinds  of 
training  of  the  perceptive  faculties.  Nothing  can  better 
train  the  eye  and  thoughts  to  see  and  love  the  beautiful 
than  this  work,  and  it  has  a  most  refining  and  elevating 
effect  upon  those  who  thus  spend  their  leisure  hours. 

If  proper  time  is  given  to  the  subject,  and  the  advice  of 
those  who  have  had  some  experience  is  sought,  there  need 
be  no  difficulty  in  making  a  good  working  plan  by  the 
amateur.  The  father  and  the  mother  should  both  be  in- 
terested and  plan  together,  and  the  children  too  should 
have  a  voice  in  the  matter,  for  there  is  nothing  that  holds 
them  to  the  old  home  as  the  trees  and  plants  they  have 
planted  or  helped  to  plant  and  care  for. 

When  cost  is  not  an  item  of  consideration,  a  complete 
plan  made  by  a  skilled  landscape  gardener  who  is  willing 
to  incorporate,  as  far  as  possible,  the  particular  species  of 
trees  and  plants  and  other  features  desired  by  the  owner, 
will  give  the  most  satisfaction;  but  the  value  of  the  study 
and  training  to  the  individual  is  lost;  therefore  I  would 
advise  every  home-builder  to  make  a  great  effort  to  learn 
what  are  the  best  decorative  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants  for 
homo  planting,  and  how  best  to  succeed  in  growing  them  to 
the  greatest  perfection. 


4  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

Some  failures  will  be  made,  bat  success  will  at  last  crown 
our  efforts,  and  the  things  we  have  planted,  the  walks  and 
drives  we  have  located,  and  the  other  objects  of  beauty  we 
have  created  about  our  homes  will  be  ours  in  a  sense  that 
they  cannot  be  if  we  build  after  the  plan  of  others,  and  a 
most  precious  source  of  joy  and  comfort  in  declining  years. 

The  Natural  versus  the  Artificial  System. 

In  earlier  times  and  in  other  countries  much  of  the 
work  in  landscape  or  ornamental  gardening  was,  done 
in  what  is  known  as  the  geometrical  or  artificial  system, 
where  the  work  was  largely  laid  out  in  squares,  circles, 
or  other  geometrical  figures;  the  changes  in  grade  were 
largely  obtained  by  steep  terraces,  the  trees  and  shrubs 
trained  to  regular  and  often  grotesque  forms.  In  our 
own  country  the  natural  system  is  more  largely  used,  and 
more  and  more  in  Europe  it  is  coming  into  use,  where 
all  the  work  is  done  so  as  to  represent  the  best  and  most 
beautiful  in  nature.  By  this  system  the  walks  and  drives 
are  laid  out  in  graceful  curves,  the  changes  in  grade  made 
by  graceful  slopes  and  rounded  surfaces,  and  the  trees  and 
shrubs  are  encouraged  to  take  the  most  perfect  natural 
forms,  while  they  are  so  grouped  as  to  give  the  greatest 
variety  of  natural  beauty. 

Under  some  conditions,  as  in  squares  or  city  lots,  close 
up  to  large,  tall  buildings,  with  paved  roads  and  side- 
walks, on  steep  hillsides  and  abrupt  slopes,  or  where 
the  terrace  or  retaining  wall  is  a  necessity,  the  arti- 
ficial system  may  not  be  objectionable,  but  in  the  country, 
with  so  much  of  freedom  of  thought  and  action,  and 
so  full  of  natural  growth  and  beauty,  the  artificial  style 
is  not  in  good  taste  and  should  generally  be  avoided. 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING   AND   HOME   DECORATION.        5 

The  house  and  surrounding  buildings,  walks,  drives, 
fences,  etc.,  must  of  necessity  be  artificial,  but  even  these 
may  be  toned  down  in  their  architecture  and  coloring  so  as 
to  blend  and  harmonize  with  the  natural  ornamental 
features  about  them. 

New  Homes  and  Homes  Already  Established. 

In  considering  the  subject  of  home  decoration  it  becomes 
necessary  to  discuss  it  tinder  two  heads:  1st.  New  homes 
where  nothing  has  been  done  toward  outside  decoration; 
2d.  Homes  already  established. 


CHAPTER  II. 

ORNAMENTING   NEW  HOMES. 

IN  establishing  and  decorating  new  homes  the  following 
important  points  must  be  considered:  Location,  healthful- 
ness,  convenience,  elevation  and  slope  of  land,  good  water, 
kind  of  soil,  strongly  marked  features,  as  rock  and  water, 
etc. 

Location. 

Everywhere  about  us,  except  in  the  heart  of  the  large 
cities,  are  to  be  found  building  lots  with  more  or  less  land 
for  lawn  and  garden  purposes.  On  hill  and  in  dale,  among 
the  mountains,  by  the  seaside,  in  the  suburbs,  and  in  the 
remote  country,  everywhere  are  places  in  such  profusion 
that  those  of  the  most  limited  means,  the  most  wealthy  and 
of  the  most  fastidious  tastes,  may  find  a  location  suited  to 
their  requirements. 

"Whether  one  shall  locate  a  new  home  in  the  city,  in  the 
suburbs,  or  in  the  country  is  a  question  that  cannot  be 
answered  without  a  complete  understanding  of  all  of  the 
conditions  involved.  Each  has  its  advantage,  and  every  side 
of  the  question  should  be  very  carefully  studied  before  a 
decision  is  made,  for  not  only  one's  own  personal  welfare  is 
involved,  but  in  many  cases  that  of  others  near  and  dear, 
and  when  once  located  a  change  cannot  be  made  with- 


ORNAMENTING    XKW    HOMES.  7 

out  a  great  inconvenience  and  in.   some  cases  great  loss 
financially. 

Healthfulness  of  Location. 

This  is  of  the  first  and  paramount  importance,  for  with- 
out health  no  one  can  enjoy  life  or  do  his  share  toward 
making  his  own  life  or  that  of  others  of  value.  And  first 
of  all  low  and  swampy  or  malarial  land  should  be  avoided. 
While  much  may  be  done  by  underdraining,  and  other 
means  be  employed  to  make  such  locations  healthful,  with  so 
many  thousands  of  acres  about  us  free  from  these  objections 
there  is  no  necessity  for  a  single  dwelling  being  located  on 
unhealthful  ground.  Rising  land  with  good  drainage, 
where  the  surface-water  shall  quickly  pass  off,  where  there 
shall  be  an  abundance  of  moving  air  about  the  site,  and  an 
abundance  of  sunlight,  is  the  most  desirable. 

Convenience. 

The  location  should  be  convenient  of  access  not  only 
for  the  occupants  but  for  all  who  may  be  in  contact  with 
them.  Many  a  family  have  shut  themselves  out  £rom 
society  almost  completely  by  building  a  home  where  friends 
can  only  meet  them  by  making  a  very  unusual  effort. 

The  leading  idea  of  modern  times  is  centralization; 
and  the  advantages  of  being  near  neighbors  where  social 
intercourse  can  be  frequent,  where  the  whole  family  will  be 
brought  into  close  contact  with  the  surrounding  world,  are 
many;  but  it  becomes  a  question  if  the  individuality,  the 
strong  characters  brought  out  by  the  self-reliance  acquired 
by  living  in  more  isolated  sections,  are  not  worth  consider- 
ing also.  The  electric  railroad,  penetrating  far  into  the 
country,  connecting  town  with  town  and  country  with  town, 


8  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

will  in  a  measure  settle  the  question  of  the  necessity  for 
centralization  and  the  depopulation  of  our  rural  districts. 

Nearness  to  railroad,  to  school  and  church  must  be  care- 
fully considered;  but  as  the  cost  of  building  lots  remote 
from  these  conveniences  is  much  less,  those  limited  in 
means  will  continue  to  locate  in  the  less  favored  sections. 

The  main  street  of  the  town  or  village  has  many  advan- 
tages, but  the  cross  or  side  streets  have  the  advantages  of 
greater  quiet  and  allow  of  more  freedom  of  action,  besides 
being  less  expensive. 

Elevation  and  Slope. 

The  height  of  the  land  above  the  sea-level  and  above  the 
surrounding  country  should  be  considered.  The  higher 
the  land  the  better  and  purer  the  air,  the  larger  and  more 
pleasing  the  landscape  effect,  and  more  perfect  drainage 
may  be  obtained.  There  are,  however,  serious  objections 
to  extreme  elevation  and  abrupt  slopes  which  increase  the 
effort  needed  to  get  to  and  from  the  place,  and  increase  the 
cost  of  fitting  the  land  and  keeping  lawn,  walks,  and  drives 
in  good  condition.  A  southern  or  southeastern  slope  will 
afford  much  shelter  where  the  prevailing  winds  during 
cold  weather  are  from  the  north  or  northwest,  and,  if  the 
landscape  effect  is  equally  good,  should  be  selected  in  pref- 
erence to  a  western  or  northwestern  slope. 

Good  Water. 

Nothing  can  make  home  life  more  miserable  than  an  in- 
sufficient supply  of  water  or  water  that  is  of  poor  quality, 
and  the  most  careful  investigation  of  this  question  should 
be  made  before  deciding  upon  a  location.  If  there  are  any 


ORNAMENTING   NEW   HOMES.  9 

conditions  that  may  lead  to  the  contamination  of  the  drink- 
ing-water, they  should  have  the  most  rigid  investigation. 
With  the  modern  methods  of  analysis  it  is  possible  to  know 
positively  the  condition  of  the  water,  but  analyses  should  be 
made  at  two  or  three  different  times  to  determine  if  the  sup- 
ply is  affected  at  one  season  of  the  year  and  not  at  another. 

In  villages  and  near  old  buildings  most  dangerous  sources 
of  contamination  may  be  found  in  sink-drains,  cesspools, 
stable-yards,  etc.,  and  if  any  of  the  above  are  found  within 
from  200  to  300  feet,  according  to  the  soil,  of  a  well  the 
water  should  be  regarded  with  suspicion. 

These  sources  of  contamination  may  not  affect  the  water 
in  a  new  well  for  many  years,  but  sooner  or  later  the  sur- 
face-drainage will  find  its  way  down  to  the  deep  basins 
formed  by  our  wells.  The  safest  water-supply  is  that  from 
a  well-constructed  and  cared  for  reservoir,  brought  in  suit- 
able pipes  to  the  house.  In  these  open  reservoirs  the  water 
becomes  purified  by  long  exposure  to  the  air,  but  does  not 
possess  the  sparkle  nor  the  coolness  of  water  from  a  deep 
well. 

Kind  of  Soil. 

While  the  location  as  to  surroundings,  elevation,  water- 
supply,  etc.,  are  matters  of  first  importance,  the  success  and 
more  or  less  the  cost  of  the  ornamental  planting  depends 
largely  upon  the  nature  of  the  soil.  It  will  hardly  be 
possible  to  find  a  soil  perfectly  adapted  to  the  best  growth 
of  all  kinds  of  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants,  yet  any  ordinarily 
good  soil  may  be  made  to  grow  most  of  them  without  very 
great  expense.  The  best  soil  for  general  purposes  is  a  deep 
sandy  loam,  though  a  strong  loam  with  a  clay  subsoil  if 
thoroughly  underdrained  will  often  be  satisfactory  and,  a 
thin  soil,  too,  may  be  very  much  improved  by  deep  working 


10  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

and  heavy  manuring,  but  in  the  two  latter  cases  the 
expense  of  preparation  and  maintenance  is  very  much 
increased. 

Strongly  Marked  Natural  Features,  like  Rocks  and  Water, 
Distant  Views,  etc. 

These  prominent  natural  features  often  found  on  build- 
ing lots  and  surroundings  should  always  be  carefully  con- 
sidered, for  they  may  be  made  to  add  wonderful  beauty 
and  variety  if  properly  handled. 

ROCKS. 

Large  boulders  and  ledges  should  be  preserved  wherever 
possible,  but  the  small  boulders,  loose  rocks,  and  cobbles 
should  all  be  put  out  of  sight  in  well-kept  grounds.  The 
latter  may  be  utilized  for  foundations  for  small  buildings 
and  for  filling  in  the  beds  of  walks  and  drives,  or  otherwise 
disposed  of  where  out  of  view.  The  practice  of  dumping 
them  along  the  roadside,  which  we  find  in  many  country 
places,  cannot  be  too  severely  condemned,  for  it  renders  the 
destruction  of  weeds  and  brush  that  come  up  among  them 
almost  an  impossibility.  If  all  the  loose  stones  and  cobbles 
could  be  removed  from  the  borders  of  our  roadways 
throughout  the  country,  weeds  and  other  objectionable 
growth  could  be  easily  kept  down  and  the  roadsides  be  soon 
covered  with  grass  and  desirable  trees  and  shrubs. 

Ledges  and  boulders  serve  as  a  nucleus  around  which  to 
group  the  ornamental  trees,  shrubs,  and  vines,  and  give  an 
added  naturalness  and  beauty  that  can  be  obtained  in  no 
other  way.  Large  boulders  may  often  be  arranged  in  such 
a  way  as  to  give  a  steep  embankment  the  appearance  of  a 
projecting  ledge  as  in  Fig.  2,  and  which  shows  them 
arranged  upon  both  sides  of  a  cut  through  which  a  drive 


ORNAMENTING    ^ 


HOMES. 


11 


or  walk  can  be  arranged  with  good  effect.     Fig.  3  illustrates 
bonlders  grouped  on  one  side  of  a  slope  with  very  pleasing 


,    2 ARRANGEMENT  OF  KOCKS 


FIG.  3. — ARRANGEMENT  OF  ROCKS. 

results.     Fig.   4    shows   a    very    unnatural    and    inartistic 
arrangement   which  would    be  greatly  improved   if   trees, 


12  LANDSCAPE  GARDENING. 

shrubs,  and  plants  were  planted  around  and  among  them. 
As  much  of  the  naturalness  about  these  strong  features  as 
possible  should  be  preserved.  The  trees,  shrubs,  and  vines, 
the  herbaceous  plants  and  grass  should  be  made  to  grow  to 
greater  perfection  than  in  their  wild  condition,  by  careful 


FIG.  4. — ARRANGEMENT  OF  LOCKS. 

attention  and  enrichment  of  the  soil,  and  undesirable 
things  should  not  be  allowed  to  grow;  thus  will  art  and 
nature  be  combined  and  true  beauty  produced. 

WATER. 

Close  proximity  to  lakes,  ponds,  or  streams  may  not 
always  be  desirable,  but  where  there  is  open  country  about 
the  place,  with  an  abundance  of  sunshine  and  air,  and  the 
land  is  somewhat  elevated  above  the  water,  few  natural 
features  can  be  made  to  produce  so  much  beauty  and 
pleasure.  A  vista  of  water,  either  moving  or  silent, 
through  an  opening  in  the  shrubbery  adds  at  once  a  quiet 
and  a  charm  of  which  one  seldom  tires. 

Moving  water  gives  more  variety,  adds  life  and  vivacity 
to  the  landscape,  while  the  peaceful  lakelet  or  pond  has  a 
quieting  effect.  In  places  where  there  is  much  of  the  bold 
and  strong  in  the  decoration  the  surprise  and  variety  given 
by  the  quiet  lakelet  is  very  pleasing,  while  where  the  quiet, 
graceful  features  predominate  a  little  moving,  active  water 
is  equally  valuable.  In  making  confined  sheets  of  water, 
if  the  source  of  supply  is  abundant,  so  that  there  is  fre- 


ORNAMENTING    NEW    HOMES. 


13 


qnent  renewal  of  the  water  within  the  basin,  the  outlet  may 
be  through  an  underground  overflow  as  shown  in  Fig.  5. 


FIG   5. — UNDERGROUND  OVERFLOW  OF  LAKELET. 

If  the  supply  of  water  is  limited  and  not  likely  to  be  fre- 
quently renewed,  the  open  overflow  or  outlet,  as  in  Fig.  6, 


FIG.  6. — OPEN  OVERFLOW  OF  LAKELET. 

should  be  made,  so  that  any  foul  substances  that  accumu- 
late on  the  surface  may  be  easily  carried  off.  With  the 
underground  outlet  it  requires  a  tremendous  volume  of 
water  to  carry  such  light  surface-material  down  into  the 
culvert  even  one  or  two  feet  below  the  surface" of  the  water. 

The  low  murmur  of  the  brooklet,  or  the  dash  of  the 
cascade  or  waterfall,  has  charms  for  almost  every  one  and 
should  be  made  a  most  prominent  feature  wherever  avail- 
able. Even  if  not  on  one's  own  grounds,  by  a  little 
manipulation  of  shrubbery  water-views  may  often  be 
secured  through  open  vistas. 

The  location  of  the  home  in  the  vicinity  of  stagnant 
water  or  where  streams  or  ponds  are  likely  to  be  contami- 


14  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

nated  by  sewage  or  undesirable  surface-drainage  should  be 
avoided  unless  there  is  some  certainty  that  the  surround- 
ings can  and  will  be  improved. 

Increase  in  Value. 

No  thrifty  person  will  think  of  locating  in  any  place 
where,  if  by  change  of  business  or  other  circumstance  they 
might  be  obliged  to  make  a  change  in  location,  the  prop- 
erty will  not  sell  for  something  near  its  cost.  In  a  great 
many  localities,  where  near  good  railroads  and  thriving 
manufactories,  property  is  almost  sure  to  increase  in  value 
if  a  good  selection  is  made  and  the  home  is  economically 
built,  while  in  others,  more  distant  from  business  centres, 
real  estate  has  gradually  diminished  in  value,  until  we  often 
find  good  home  farms  offered  for  sale  for  much  less  than 
the  cost  of  the  buildings  upon  them. 

Amount  of  Land  to  Purchase. 

One  of  the  greatest  mistakes  many  people  make  when 
establishing  a  new  home  is  in  purchasing  too  much  land, 
especially  if  they  are  persons  of  small  means  and  little 
experience  in  caring  for  land.  The  amount  that  should  be 
purchased  ought  to  be  limited  to  the  actual  needs  of  the 
purchaser.  If  means  are  abundant  and  extensive  grounds 
and  a  large  lawn  with  choice  shrubbery  is  desired,  or  if 
more  or  less  gardening  is  to  be  done,  more  land  can  bo 
utilized,  but  even  then- the  quantity  should  be  limited  to 
what  can  be  well  cared  for. 

The  home  garden  is  one  of  the  greatest  luxuries  con- 
nected with  a  comfortable  home,  provided  one  has  the 
knowledge  and  skill  to  make  the  work  a  success  and  has 


ORNAMENTING    XEW    HOMES.  15 

the  time  to  either  do  the  work  or  to  see  that  all  the  opera- 
tions of  planting,  cultivation,  and  harvesting  are  properly 
done.  To  the  professional  man,  the  business  man,  or 
mechanic  of  sedentary  habit  the  physical  effort  necessary 
to  successfully  care  for  a  small  garden  of  fruits  and  vege- 
tables will  be  invaluable  and  one  of  the  best  means  of  secur- 
ing vigorous  health,  while  the  products  of  a  well-kept 
garden  have  often  been  made  to  supplement  many  a  meagre 
income  and  provide  the  most  healthful  and  appetizing  food 
possible  to  obtain.  (See  Chap.  XVI.) 

But  this  caution  should  be  observed:  Do  not  undertake 
this  work  on  a  large  scale  until  some  skill  or  experience  has 
been  obtained.  Small  areas  well  tilled  in  all  lines  of  agri- 
culture and  horticulture  generally  give  the  best  results,  and 
only  so  much  land  should  be  given  to  garden  purpose  as 
can  be  cared  for  in  the  most  thorough  manner.  If  land  is 
abundant,  a  part  of  it  might  be  set  off  to  the  children  for  a 
flower-garden,  for  the  planting  of  a  few  trees  or  vines,  or  for 
growing  a  few  vegetables  like  melons,  etc.  In  no  way  can 
so  much  of  nature  and  her  ways  be  taught  to  children  and 
a  real  love  for  all  her  products  be  fostered,  as  well  as  a 
strong  love  be  developed  for  the  home  which  they  have 
helped  to  build. 


Location  of  Buildings. 

After  deciding  where  to  build  a  home,  the  first  question 
to  decide  is  where  to  locate  the  house.  Nothing  can  be 
more  important.  In  building  a  house  it  is  with  the  idea 
of  permanent  occupancy  or  for  a  long  series  of  years,  and 
any  mistake  made  at  this  stage  is  often  irreparable. 

Wherever  possible  the  house  should  be  located  at  some 


16 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


distance  from  the  street;  the  building  will  look  better,  and 
more  natural  and  beautiful  decorations  can  be  made  than 
if  it  is  almost  on  the  street-line.  In  suburban  districts 
where  there  are  already  many  houses  located,  to  place  the 
building  very  much  out  of  the  line  of  those  already  built 
sometimes  detracts  from  rather  than  enhances  its  beauty. 
With  an  abundance  of  room  between  the  lionse  and  street 
one  is  less  troubled  by  dust  and  noise,  and  better  views  of 
the  building  and  grounds  can  be  obtained  from  the  street, 
and  better  opportunity  is  afforded  for  securing  vistas  of 
beauty  and  variety  in  looking  from  the  house. 

Where  the  lot  is  long  and  narrow  and  small  in  extent, 
say  less  than  one  fourth  of  an  acre,  greater  variety  may  be 
obtained  by  placing  the  house  somewhat  at  one  side  as  in 
Fig.  7.  This  affords  better  opportunity  for  decoration,  the 


Street 


FIG.  7.— BUILDINGS  ARRANGED  ON  ONE  SIDE  OF  LOT. 

use  of  larger  trees  and  shrubs,  and  greater  extent  of  lawn. 
In  places  of  larger  area  a  central  location  may  be  more 
desirable,  as  the  balance  of  the  picture  or  better  symmetry 
is  more  readily  obtained. 


ORNAMENTING    NEW    HOMES.  17 


Elevation  of  the  House. 

No  more  frequent  mistake  is  made  by  builders  than  in 
the  elevation  of  the  house.  It  is  very  difficult  for  an  in- 
experienced person  to  judge  how  a  house  will  look  after  the 
excavation  has  been  made  and  the  soil  is  brought  up  to  a 
grade.  The  elevation  should  be  such  that  there  shall  be 
perfect  surface  and  sub-drainage,  that  all  water  shall  pass 
off  quickly.  The  elevation  must  also  be  sufficient  to  secure 
a  perfectly  dry  cellar. 

The  view,  too,  must  be  considered,  and  it  will  be  found 
that  this  is  best  when  seen  from  a  little  above  surrounding 
objects,  and  the  beauty  of  the  house  and  grounds  is  much 
increased  if  seen  from  a  little  below  the  level. 

The  cost  of  excavation  and  filling  is  a  matter  that  must 
be  considered,  and  if  the  soil  taken  from  the  cellar  is  not 
sufficient  to  do  the  grading  it  must  be  obtained  from  the 
nearest  source  of  supply  of  good  material. 

Exposure  of  the  House. 

Whether  the  house  shall  be  on  the  north,  south,  east,  or 
west  slope  is  a  matter  of  great  importance  in  our  change- 
able climate.  On  the  southern,  southeasterly,  or  south- 
westerly slopes  a  little  under  a  hill  or  in  the  lea  of  a 
sheltering  grove,  the  fierce  northwest  winds,  so  common 
throughout  the  country,  are  greatly  modified,  but  some  of 
our  most  lovely  views  are  often  lost  under  such  conditions, 
and  it  becomes  a  matter  of  serious  moment  which  of  the 
two  conditions  to  adopt.  Shelter  is  very  easily  provided, 
however,  in  a  short  time  by  planting  trees  of  rapid  growth. 

The  location  as  related  to  the  principal  thoroughfare  is  a 


18  LANDSCAPE    GAKDENIXG. 

matter  that  should  receive  attention.  On  the  north  side 
of  a  road  leading  east  and  west  the  front  of  the  house  will 
be  open  to  the  south,  and  the  front  rooms  are  thus  exposed 
to  the  sun  more  fully  than  the  rear  rooms.  If,  however, 
more  sunlight  is  desired  in  the  rear  rooms,  a  location  on  the 
south  side  of  the  street  would  be  more  satisfactory.  Hall- 
ways and  unoccupied  rooms  should  be  placed  where  there 
is  the  least  sunlight. 

Bat  whatever  the  exposure,  the  aim  should  be  to  obtain 
shelter  if  possible  from  the  prevailing  winds,  to  secure  as 
much  sunlight  as  possible  and  preserve  the  most  beautiful 
views. 

Character  of  the  Land. 

The  beauty  that  may  be  developed  in  any  place  depends 
largely  upon  the  character  of  the  land.  If  without  char- 
acter, i.e.,  if  perfectly  flat  and  level,  no  marked  or  strong 
features  can  be  obtained  except  at  a  greatly  added  cost. 
If,  however,  the  land  is  uneven,  witli  a  valley  here,  a  hill 
there,  a  ravine  in  one  place,  or  a  mass  of  bold  rocks  in 
another,  much  more  variety  and  much  more  beautiful  views 
may  be  obtained.  Whatever  variety  is  obtained  on  a  level 
building  lot  must  be  made  by  the  contrast  between  the 
ornamental  trees  and  shrubs  and  the  architecture. 

Architecture. 

In  building  a  new  house  the  architecture  should  be  in 
keeping  with  the  surroundings  and  within  the  means  of  the 
builder.  The  most  unsatisfactory  results  are  often  shown 
where  a  large  showy  house  is  built  in  a  quiet  unpretentious 
place,  or  where  the  owner  has  put  his  last  dollar  into  it  and 
can  do  nothing  toward  decoration,  but  must  leave  the  place 


ORNAMENTING    NEW   HOMES.  19 

in  an  nnkempt  and  slovenly  condition.  Many  a  home  is 
built  too  large  to  be  properly  furnished  or  cared  for,  and 
thus  becomes  a  source  of  anxiety  and  disappointment. 

The  simple,  plain,  well-built  structure,  with  surround- 
ings neatly  planted  and  kept  up  in  a  neat  and  finished 
manner,  has  more  attractiveness,  is  more  enjoyed  by  the 
occupants,  and  adds  much  more  to  the  appearance  of  thrift 
and  comfort  of  a  community  than  .the  large  showy  build- 
ings without  tasteful  decoration  and  outside  care. 

While  beautiful  trees  and  shrubs  may  be  grown  and 
artistic  arrangement  of  all  of  the  material  for  home  decora- 
tion be  just  as  well  made  about  a  dwelling  that  has  no 
features  of  beauty  in  itself,  more  satisfactory  results  may 
be  obtained  if  the  buildings  harmonize  with  the  natural 
surroundings. 

If  the  buildings  are  already  established,  little  can  be  done 
but  adapt  the  decorations  to  their  characteristics.  Much 
greater  beauty  is  added  to  the  broad,  low  house  by  intro- 
ducing some  slender,  spiry  trees  than  by  using  all  low- 
spreading  trees,  while  with  the  Gothic  or  other  light,  high 
styles  of  architecture  many  of  the  graceful  and  low-spread- 
ing trees  may  be  grouped  with  some  of  the  spiry  kinds. 
In  every  case  there  must  be  a  blending  of  the  materials 
used  for  decoration  with  the  architecture. 

Plans  of  Dwelling-houses. 

So  much  is  written  at  the  present  time  on  suburban 
architecture  that  no  attempt  will  be  made  in  this  volume 
to  give  plans  for  such  work.  The  reader  is  referred  to  the 
numerous  works  on  the  subject  and  to  the  many  careful 
and  well-elaborated  plans  to  be  found  in  our  agricultural, 
horticultural,  scientific,  and  literary  papers  which,  with  a 


20  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

fair  amount  of  taste  in  the  decorative  art  and  the  assistance 
of  a  good  builder,  will  enable  one  to  decide  understandingly 
what  is  needed  and  in  many  cases  dispense  with  the  expen- 
sive services  of  the  professional  architect. 

In  cases,  however,  of  extensive  buildings  of  considerable 
cost  it  will  be  found  economical  to  have  a  full  detailed  plan 
made  by  an  experienced  architect.  With  a  full  understand- 
ing of  all  of  the  needs  of  the  family  which  are  to  occupy 
the  dwelling,  the  skilled  architect  will  be  able  to  obtain 
desired  results  and  save  many  mistakes  that  the  inexperi- 
enced would  be  likely  to  make,  often  saving  the  owner 
many  times  the  cost  of  a  working  plan. 

There  is,  however,  a  growing  taste  among  our  people  for 
amateur  architecture  which  should  be  encouraged,  and  many 
beautiful  and  well-arranged  plans  of  all  kinds  of  buildings 
have  been  produced  by  those  about  to  build  houses;  and 
the  pleasure  experienced  in  building  a  house  of  one's  own 
planning  may  more  than  counterbalance  any  saving  in 
material  or  labor  that  might  result  from  a  plan  made  by  a 
skilled  architect. 

Cost  of  the  House. 

It  is  the  almost  universal  experience  of  those  who  build 
a  house  for  the  first  time,  especially  those  with  limited 
means,  that  the  cost  largely  exceeds  the  estimate,  and  this 
has  led  to  the  practice  of  adding  25  to  50  per  cent  to  the 
estimate  as  it  is  ordinarily  made.  This  deficiency  may  be 
accounted  for  generally  by  the  fact  that  there  are  so  many 
little  things  that  go  to  make  up  the  completed  house  that 
are  overlooked  or  that  are  not  incorporated  in  the  builder's 
contract,  and  whenever  a  building  is  done  by  contract  the 
most  full  and  complete  specifications  should  be  made  out, 


ORNAMENTING   NEW   HOMES.  21 

Where  reliable  builders  can  be  found  who  will  look  to  the 
interest  of  the  employer  as  well  as  their  own,  mnch  more 
satisfactory  results  may  be  obtained  if  the  work  is  done  by 
day  labor  than  if  by  contract. 

The  requirements  for  a  healthful  house  are,  first, 

Good  Drainage  of  the  Cellar. 

A  wet  or  even  over-moist  cellar  is  often  the  cause  of 
much  sickness  and  discomfort,  for  it  serves  not  only  as  a 
place  for  the  development  of  disease-germs,  but  also  those 
that  cause  the  decay  of  the  woodwork  and  hastens  the 
corrosion  of  any  metal  substances  stored  therein.  It  causes 
contraction  and  expansion  of  doors,  windows,  casings,  and 
floors,  and  gives  no  end  of:  trouble  in  many  ways.  From 
its  long  use  for  storing  vegetables,  etc.,  we  have  come  to 
think  that  a  cellar  is  almost  a  necessity,  but  it  is  not  so 
much  so  at  the  present  time  as  when  almost  every  family 
put  in  a  large  supply  of  provisions  for  winter  use.  Xow 
the  provision-dealer  puts  in  large  supplies  and  is  ready  to 
deliver  fresh  vegetables  and  fruit  in  limited  quantities 
every  week,  or  even  every  day  if  desired. 

The  cellar  is  useful  in  the  modern  house,  however,  not 
so  much  for  storing  winter  supplies  as  for  the  location  of 
the  furnace  and  the  needed  fuel.  In  the  "  good  old 
times  "  our  houses  were  heated  by  burning  large  quantities 
of  wood  in  the  fireplaces;  then  came  the  stove,  one  in  each 
room;  and  finally  we  have  come  to  centralizing  all  heating 
apparatus  in  one  furnace  or  boiler,  which,  until  we  come 
to  the  condition  where  all  heat  can  be  supplied  to  our 
dwellings  from  outside  central  stations,  either  by  steam,  hot 
water,  or  electricity,  is  by  far  the  most  satisfactory  ar- 
rangement we  find  now  available. 


22  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

A  well-drained  cellar  with  a  good  furnace  to  dry  out 
surplus  moisture  is  a  good  place  for  storing  fuel  and  other 
necessities,  and  is  easily  accessible  for  regulating  the  heat- 
supply. 

In  every  case  proper  means  should  be  provided  for  getting 
the  coal  and  other  fuel  in  and  for  taking  out  the  accumu- 
lating ashes  in  such  a  way  as  not  to  necessitate  crossing  long 
distances  of  lawn  with  heavily  loaded  teams.  The  bulkhead 
or  entrance  into  the  cellar  should  therefore  be  located  with 
this  in  view. 

As  far  as  possible  all  vegetables  and  fruit  should  be 
stored  in  the  cellar  of  some  outbuilding  or  in  some  frost- 
proof vegetable  or  fruit  room  above  ground,  and  except  for 
the  furnace  and  the  fuel-supply  a  cellar  is  not  a  necessity 
in  building  the  modern  house. 

Where  perfect  drainage  can  be  obtaind  at  little  expense, 
under  many  conditions  the  cellar  is  desirable,  and  the  space 
provided  by  its  construction  is  much  more  cheaply  obtained 
than  in  any  other  part  of  the  building.  Upon  side-hills 
where  basement  rooms  can  be  constructed  the  space  becomes 
still  more  valuable  for  kitchen,  laundry,  and  other  purposes. 

The  surface-drainage  of  all  water  from  the  roofs  and  all 
surrounding  land  should  be  first  provided  for  by  proper 
grading,  so  that  it  shall  pass  off  quickly  and  without  wash- 
ing of  the  soil.  The  water  from  the  roof  should  never  be 
allowed  to  fall  from  the  eaves  to  the  ground  near  the  foun- 
dations, but  should  be  conducted  in  pipes  and  gutters  as 
far  away  as  is  possible.  Where  the  slope  is  very  abrupt 
from  the  house,  underground  conduits  should  be  provided 
to  prevent  surface-washing.  Subdrainage  should  be  pro- 
vided along  the  inside  of  the  cellar  walls,  and  deep  enough 
below  the  bottom  to  make  it  perfectly  dry.  If  the  soil 


ORNAMENTING   NEW   HOMES.  23 

outside  is  naturally  wet  or  springy,  a  line  of  tile  should  be 
placed  at  such  distance  and  depth  as  to  make  this  perfectly 
dry.  With  a  cellar  bottom  thus  drained  outside  and  in,  and 
carefully  concreted  with  cement  and  sand,  the  most  health- 
ful condition  possible  will  be  provided. 

Perfect  Ventilation. 

This  is  a  very  large  subject  to  even  touch  upon  in  a  work 
of  this  character  and  limit,  but  is  one  of  so  much  impor- 
tance that  no  one  who  intends  to  build  a  home,  however 
simple,  should  ignore  it. 

The  first  condition  to  be  provided  is  sufficiently  large 
space  for  taking  in  pure  and  forcing  out  the  impure  air  in 
sufficient  quantities  for  healthy  respiration  of  the  inmates. 
This  is  best  provided  by  having  open  fireplaces  in  each  of 
the  principal  rooms,  or  by  means  of  separate  fines  for  the 
inlet  of  fresh  air  and  egress  of  the  foul  air,  a  draft  being 
created  in  the  flues  by  heat  produced  by  a  gas-jet,  a  coil 
from  steam-  or  hot-water  pipes  of  the  boiler,  or  from  a 
separate  stack  heater. 

Economy  of  fuel  demands  a  close  construction  of  the 
building  by  lining  the  walls  with  some  non-conducting 
material  like  paper,  building-felt,  etc.,  and  in  very  cold 
weather  it  is  a  matter  requiring  serious  consideration  how 
to  heat  the  necessary  amount  of  cold  fresh  air  that  we  must 
have  for  health.  The  single  thickness  of  window  around 
which  so  much  fresh  air  would  enter  we  cover  with  storm- 
sash,  our  doors  we  make  close  with  weather-strips,  and  the 
only  source  of  fresh-air  supply  must  be  through  the  cold- 
air  box  that  leads  into  the  furnace  or  ventilating  flues.  If 
this  is  sufficiently  large  and  properly  regulated,  and  a  quick 


24  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

draft  is  made  by  the  flue  being  heated  with  a  fire,  gas-jet, 
or  hand-lamp  in  the  grate  or  open  fireplace,  or  a  coil  or 
other  heating  appliance  in  a  separate  flue,  pure  air  will  be 
constantly  supplied;  but  if  the  cold-air  box  is  kept  closed 
and  no  adequate  escape  is  provided,  the  closely  built  house 
becomes  a  place  for  the  generation  of  disease  and  ill  health. 
The  most  approved  method  of  arranging  the  heat-supply 
and  foul-air  escape  is  to  have  the  former  enter  the  room 
near  the  ceiling  and  the  latter  to  pass  out  near  the  floor  on 
the  same  side,  thus  causing  a  full  sweep  and  circulation  of 
air  in  all  parts  of  the  room.  If  the  heat  enters  on  one  side 
and  passes  out  on  the  opposite  side,  the  current  of  heated 
air  may  go  directly  across  the  room  in  a  narrow  current  and 
the  air  at  the  sides  of  the  room  be  imperfectly  renewed. 

Heating  the  House. 

Steam,  hot  water,  and  hot-air  furnaces  are  all  largely 
used  for  heating  dwellings,  and  each  has  strong  advocates 
among  practical  and  scientific  men,  but  which  of  them  will 
give  the  best  results  depends  upon  so  many  conditions  that 
no  attempt  will  be  made  to  decide  the  question  here.  With 
either  steam  or  hot  water  enclosed  in  coils  or  radiators 
separate  systems  of  ventilation  should  be  provided  by  the 
open  fireplace  or  the  separate  flue. 

Convenience  in  Arrangement  of  Rooms. 

In  many  homes  the  loved  inmates  are  often  in  a  few 
years  forced  to  travel  many  unnecessary  miles  or  suffer 
great  inconvenience  because  of  the  poor  arrangement  of  the 
important  rooms  of  the  house.  The  house  should  be 
adapted  in  every  way  to  the  conditions  of  the  inmates.  If 


ORNAMENTING   NEW   HOMES.  25 

the  housework  is  to  be  done  by  members  of  the  family,  the 
kitchen  and  dining-room  should  be  easily  accessible  to  the 
sitting-  or  living-room,  and  every  possible  arrangement  for 
comfort  and  ease  of  doing  the  work  should  be  provided. 
If  servants  are  to  be  employed,  and  such  often  becomes  a 
necessity,  then  the  kitchen  should  be  as  remote  from  the 
sitting-room  as  is  possible  to  avoid  odors  and  noise,  but 
both  kitchen  and  sitting-room  should  be  easily  accessible  to 
the  dining-room. 

It  is  the  practice  of  most  of  our  people  to  build  too  high. 
The  house  with  most  of  the  rooms  on  the  first  floor  has  a 
hominess  and  brooding  character  that  is  especially  adapted 
to  country  life,  and  much  time  and  effort  is  often  saved 
to  the  inmates  by  this  style  of  building,  though  perhaps 
the  cost  of  building  a  given  number  of  rooms  may  be 
somewhat  increased.  In  locations  where  the  land  is  low 
and  fogs  and  dampness  are  prevalent  and  where  land  is 
expensive  the  two-  or  even  three-story  building  may  be 
advisable. 

An  abundance  of  shelf-  and  closet-room  should  be  con- 
sidered as  important  as  large  rooms.  Neatness,  order,  and 
economy  of  time  are  thus  encouraged  in  all  of  the  inmates 
by  having  a  convenient  place  for  everything  and  keeping 
everything  in  proper  condition  in  its  proper  place.  Thera 
should  be  an  abundance  of  shed-  and  storage-room  in  the 
outbuildings  for  the  general  comfort  of  all  and  for  keeping 
up  the  necessary  outside  work  of  the  home. 

Sunlight  in  every  room  of  the  house  is  necessary  for  goo'l 
health  and  should  be  provided  for  by  the  location  and 
architecture  of  the  house. 

In  the  square-box  house,  though  undoubtedly  the  cheap- 
est to  build,  some  of  the  rooms  will  receive  but  little 


26  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

sunlight.  But  by  arranging  the  rooms  in  more  or  less  of 
the  cross  form,  or  by  the  addition  of  wings,  bay  windows, 
etc.,  the  fullest  amount  of  sunlight  can  be  obtained. 

The  recent  improvements  in  styles  of  dwellings  and  the 
adoption  of  large  or  numerous  windows  are  steps  in  the 
right  direction.  With  the  present  low  price  of  glass,  and 
sash  and  doors  made  so  cheaply  as  they  are  in  our  large 
factories,  large  windows  and  many  of  them  to  provide  an 
abundance  of  light  need  not  add  materially  to  the  first  cost 
of  a  dwelling,  and  by  the  use  of  storm-windows  during  the 
winter  little  or  no  increase  in  cost  of  heating  need  be  ex- 
perienced. 

Plumbing. 

Every  possible  attention  should  be  given  to  the  plumb- 
ing and  sanitary  arrangements  of  the  house  and  outbuild- 
ings; the  limits  of  this  book,  however,  will  not  allow 
of  an  extended  discussion  of  the  subject.  The  reader 
is  referred  to  the  many  books  written  by  practical  men 
and  women  on  this  subject,  such  as  "  Home  Sanitation," 
by  Mrs.  Ellen  M.  Richards  and  Marion  Talbot;  "Sani- 
tary Drainage  of  Houses  and  Towns"  and  "Principles 
and  Practice  of  House  Drainage,"  and  other  works  of 
Geo.  E.  Waring,  Jr.;  "Women  Plumbers  and  Doctors," 
by  Mrs.  H.  M.  Plunket;  and  many  other  works  on  the 
subject  of  house-drainage  and  plumbing  should  be  carefully 
studied. 

The  work  of  plumbing  requires  much  skill  and  patience, 
and  only  skilful  and  practical  men  should  be  employed  to 
do  this  very  important  work.  The  "plumbers  bill"  is 
proverbial,  and  the  complaint  often  made  against  their 


ORNAMENTING    NEW   HOMES.  27 

exorbitant  charges  are  in  some  cases  founded  upon  facts, 
but  there  probably  are  as  many  honest  men  in  the  plumbing 
business  as  in  many  other  lines  of  work.  To  have  a  nice, 
thoroughly  fitted  job  of  plumbing  done  requires  time  and 
the  best  of  material,  together  with  skill  on  the  part  of  the 
workmen,  all  of  which  are  expensive. 


CHAPTER  III. 

PREPARATION   OF   THE   LAND 

IN  the  preceding  chapters  the  requirements  of  the  house 
and  other  conditions  have  been  discussed  in  a  general  way, 
and  it  now  becomes  necessary  for  us  to  take  up  in  detail 
the  preparation  of  the  soil  for  the  growth  of  the  various 
kinds  of  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants  used  for  the  outside 
ornamentation  of  the  home. 

Before  any  decoration  of  the  grounds  can  be  begun  the 
house  must  have  been  finished  and  the  debris  removed  from 
the  land.  It  must  be  fully  understood  that  upon  few,  if 
any,  places  can  there  be  found  all  of  the  varieties  of  soils 
necessary  for  the  growth  of  all  of  the  ornamental  material 
that  it  may  be  desirable  to  grow,  and  often  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  procure  such  materials  to  improve  it  as  is  needed 
from  outside  sources.  In  many  cases,  however,  we  find  the 
soil  well  adapted,  with  slight  additions,  to  the  growth  of 
all  the  kinds  of  trees,  shrubs,  an:l  plants  that  it  is  desirable 
to  grow,  in  which  case  the  cost  of  preparation  is  much 
reduced. 

Preliminary  Grading. 

"When  the  excavation  is  made  for  the  cellar,  the  surface- 
soil  should  be  scraped  to  one  side  and  the  subsoil  to 

another,  that  the  former  may  be  used  to  make  the  surface- 

28 


PREPARATION    OF    THE    LAND.  29 

covering  over  any  places  that  may  have  been  deeply  filled 
in  with  poor  material.  Whenever  fills  are  to  be  made  of 
considerable  depth,  as  the  foundation  of  the  drives  and 
walks,  basins  and  valleys,  the  surface-soil,  if  it  is  needed  or 
can  be  utilized,  should  be  first  shovelled  or  scraped  to  one 
side  and  then  be  graded  over  such  coarse  material  as  may 
be  used  for  this  filling. 

The  surface  should  slope  away  in  all  directions  from  the 
house,  so  that  there  shall  be  no  surface-water  standing  at 
any  time  during  the  year  within  several  yards  of  it,  and  in 
no  place  on  the  lawn  should  there  be  basins  where  the  water 
shall  stand  for  any  length  of  time  after  heavy  showers,  or 
during  heavy  rains  or  melting  snows  in  the  winter  and 
spring.  In  the  latter  case,  especially  if  ice  is  formed  upon 
the  lawn,  the  grass  will  often  be  smothered  (winter-killed) 
or  drowned  out,  so  that  much  labor  will  be  required  to 
reseed  and  bring  it  into  good  condition  again.  Thorough 
and  deep  underdraining  will  in  a  measure  overcome  this 
difficulty,  but  when  the  ground  is  frozen  water  will  stand 
on  the  surface,  the  grass  will  be  killed  out,  and  a  growth 
of  wild  grasses  and  weeds  often  come  in  that  it  is  almost 
impossible  to  eradicate. 

The  preliminary  grading  should  be  done  as  soon  after  the 
completion  of  the  house  as  possible,  that  the  land  may 
become  perfectly  settled  before  sowing  the  grass-seed  or 
setting  the  trees  and  shrubs. 

Obtaining  the  Grade. 

To  obtain  the  desired  smooth  grade,  flowing  outline,  and 
curve  of  surface,  where  the  services  of  the  skilled  civil 
engineer  is  not  available,  various  expedients  are  resorted  tOt 


30 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


Many  persons  with  a  quick  eye,  trained  to  detect  un- 
evenuess  of  surface  or  irregularity  and  unsymmetry  of 
form,  can  obtain  very  good  results  without  the  aid  of  any 
instruments,  but  the  majority  will  be  obliged  to  call  to  their 
aid  at  least  the  carpenter's  or  mason's  level  and  more  or  less 
small  stakes.  With  this  instrument  resting  on  a  box  or 


B 

\ 

FIG.  8.— ILLUSTRATING  METHODS  OF  OBTAINING  GRADE. 

block  with  a  broad  base,  one   may  obtain  the  levels  at 
important  points  on  the  ground,  and  then  by  stretching 


FIG.  9. — ILLUSTRATING  METHODS  OF  OBTAINING  GRADE. 

strings  from  stake  to  stake,  as  shown  in  Figs.  8  and  9,  easily 
judge  of  the  comparative  height  of  each  point,  and  make 


PREPARATION    OF   THE   LAND.  31 

up  the  grade-lines  and  mark  on  the  stake  the  necessary 
depth  of  fill  or  excavation  to  be  made  at  each  stake.  In 
all  this  work  the  different  grade-lines  must  be  made  to 
blend  together  so  as  to  form  a  pleasing  whole. 

Where  the  land  is  rough  and  more  or  less  covered  with 
stones  and  stamps  or  the  roots  of  large  growing  trees,  much 
hand  labor  must  be  resorted  to,  spading  and  digging  up  the 
soil  about  the  rocks,  tilling  in  with  good  soil  where  the 
surface-soil  is  poor  and  shallow,  and  rounding  and  smooth- 
ing up  to  the  required  grade.  If  the  roots  of  living  trees 
are  near  the  surface,  deep  working  must  be  avoided,  but 


FIG.  10. — A  "WELL"  ABOUT  TREE  WITH  ROOTS  DEEPLY 
COVERED. 

where  feasible  a  covering  of  six  to  eight  inches  of  good  soil 
over  these  roots  will  often  prove  the  cheapest  way  of 
making  a  good  surface  for  the  lawn.  Deeper  covering  than 
this  must  be  avoided,  as  it  often  results  in  the  death  of  the 
trees.  If  it  becomes  necessary  to  cover  deeper  than  the 
above,  a  "well"  should  be  made  about  the  trunk,  as  in 
Fig.  10,  until  the  roots  have  had  time  to  work  to  the  sur- 
face. This  well  may  be  from  4  to  8  feet  .in  diameter, 
according  to  the  size  of  the  tree  and  depth  of  covering. 
After  two  or  three  seasons  of  growth,  when  the  roots  have 
worked  through  the  soil  to  the  surface,  this  space  may  be 
filled  in  with  safety. 


32  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

If  the  covering  of  soil  is  over  only  a  part  of  the  roots  of 
the  tree,  as  in  Fig.  11,  the  roots  coming  to  the  surface  on 


FIG.  11. — ILLUSTRATES  COVERING  THE  ROOTS  ONLY  ON  ONE  SIDE. 

one  side,  little  injury  need  be  feared  unless  there  is  a  great 
depth  of  soil  about  the  trunk,  in  which  case  the  "  well " 
should  be  made. 

It  is  very  difficult  to  make  grass  grow  to  great  perfection 
under  the  shade  of  trees  and  where  the  tree-roots  fill  the 
ground,  and  the  main  dependence  must  be  on  surface-dress- 
ing with  rich  soil  or  compost  and  frequent  seeding. 


The  Lawn. 

Upon  no  one  thing  does  so  much  depend  in  making 
beautiful  home  grounds  as  upon  a  good  lawn,  and  after 
the  buildings  and  the  preliminary  grading  are  completed 
come  the  smoothing  up  and  preparation  of  the  soil  for  the 
grass  carpet  or  "  groundwork  "  of  the  home-picture,  with- 
out which  no  picture,  whether  on  canvas  or  made  of  living 
plant-growths,  is  complete. 

A  good  lawn  cannot  be  made  except  on  a  rich  soil, 
and  if  this  is  not  the  natural  character  of  the  land  in 
hand  the  first  thing  to  do  is  to  make  it  rich  and  as  deep 
as  possibly. 


PREPARATION    OF   THE   LAND.  33 

MANURING    THE    LAWX. 

Where  the  land  is  free  from  stumps,  stones,  or  other 
obstructions,  a  liberal  dressing — from  10  to  15  cords  per 
acre — of  rich  compost  should  be  ploughed  under  as  deep  as 
possible.  If  the  land  is  full  of  tree-roots  and  large  rocks, 
this  material  must  be  spaded  in  or  worked  into  the  surface 
in  some  way.  In  addition  to  the  above  application  2  or  3 
cords  of  well-decomposed  fine  compost,  or  from  J  to  1  ton 
per  acre  of  any  of  the  standard  lawn-mixtures,  should  be 
thoroughly  worked  in  upon  the  surface.  While  commercial 
fertilizers  alone  often  give  good  results,  the  effect  of  a  heavy 
coating  of  stable  manure  is  such  as  to  make  the  land  less 
subject  to  drouth.  More  failures  in  lawn-making  come 
from  a  scanty  supply  of  plant-food  in  the  soil  than  from 
any  other  reason,  and  the  poorer  the  soil  the  more  liberal 
must  be  the  supply  of  plant-food  used. 

MAKING   THE   SURFACE. 

After  the  fertilizing-materials  have  been  applied  the 
land  should  be  thoroughly  worked  and  smoothed  until  a 
perfect  seed-bed  is  obtained. 


i 


FIG    12.— IMPROPER  GRADING  ABOUT  DWELLING. 

In  grading  away  from  buildings  a  perfect  level  should  be 
avoided.     Fig.  12  illustrates  a  very  unnatural  and  unsatis- 


34  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

factory  grade,  for  the  reason  that  the  surface-water  will  not 
readily  pass  away,  while  the  rounded  surface  that  might  be 
as  well  produced  is  much  more  natural  and  beautiful.  If 
graded  to  a  curved  line  running  from  the  base  of  the 
building  in  this  figure  to  the  outer  edge  of  the  lot,  much 
more  pleasing  results  would  be  obtained. 

The  perfectly  flat  surface  is  scarcely  ever  found  in  nature 
except  on  the  surface  of  water  or  boggy  lowlands,  and  is  very 


FIG.  13. — GRADING  TO  PLEASING  OUTLINE. 

difficult  to  ornament  and  keep  in  perfect  condition.  The 
terrace  also  in  the  middle  of  Fig.  12  is  an  unnatural 
feature,  and  hard  to  keep  in  perfect  condition.  In  Fig. 
13  is  shown  a  well-graded  surface  with  flowing  outline. 
The  effect  of  a  level  or  flat  surface  is  to  give  the  im- 
pression of  limited  extent,  while  the  rounded  surface,  as 
shown  in  Figs.  13  and  14,  gives  the  impression  of  greater 
extent.  The  last  figure  illustrates  a  steeper  grade  than  is 
shown  by  Fig.  12,  but  even  with  the  same  grade  or  slope 


PREPARATION   OF  THE  LAND. 


35 


a  much  more  pleasing  effect  is  produced  and  the  ground 
made  much  more  susceptible  to  beautiful  decoration. 


FIG.  14.— GRADING  TO  CURVED  SURFACE. 

Figs.  15  and  1(5  still  further  illustrate  the  receding  and 
rounded  outlines  desirable  even  if  the  grade  be  very  great. 


FIG.  15.— GRADING  TO  CURVED  SURFACE. 


FIG.  16.— GRADING  TO  CURVED  SURFACE. 

In  Fig.  16  greater  variety  of  surface  is  produced,  affording 
the  appearance  of  much  greater  extent. 


SETTLING   THE   SOIL. 


To  obtain  a  perfectly  even,  smooth  surface,  the  land 
should  be  raked,  then  rolled,  the  depressions  made  by  the 


36  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

roller  filled  up,  then  raked  again,  and  this  work  repeated 
until  a  satisfactory  surface  is  obtained. 

All  trees  and  shrubs  should,  if  possible,  be  planted  before 
the  grass-seed  is  sown.  If  planting  cannot  be  done  at  this 
time,  it  should  be  delayed  until  the  grass  has  become  well 
established;  otherwise  the  lawn  will  be  very  much  cut  up 
in  the  process  of  planting. 

LAWN-GRASSES. 

Only  those  grasses  that  make  a  fine  spreading  growth, 
i.e.,  tiller  or  spread  by  underground  stems,  give  good  results 
in  lawn-making.  The  best  kinds  for  general  purposes  are 
the  bent-grasses  (Agrostis  alba,  A.  vulgaris,  and  A.  stoloni- 
fera)  and  June-grass  or  Kentucky  blue-grass  (Poa  prat  en- 
sis),  all  of  which  spread  rapidly  by  underground  stems,  that 
quickly  fill  up  any  vacant  spaces  between  the  grass-plants 
and  thus  prevent  the  growth  of  weeds.  They  also  succeed 
on  a  greater  variety  of  soils  than  almost  any  other  varieties. 
On  very  light  land  and  under  shade  of  trees  there  might  be 
added  to  the  above  the  wire-grass  (Poa  compressa)  and  sheep- 
fescue  (Festuca  ovind)  and  its  varieties,  although  the  latter 
grows  somewhat  in  tufts.  White  clover  (Trifolium  repens) 
is  generally  used  in  making  a  lawn,  as  it  grows  close  to  the 
ground  and  fills  up  all  spaces  not  occupied  by  the  grass- 
roots, thus  preventing  the  growth  of  weeds.  None  of  the 
coarser  grasses,  like  timothy  (Phleum  pratense),  orchard- 
grass  (Dactylis  glomerata),  tall  fescue  (Festuca  elatior),  and 
rye-grass  (Lolium  perenne) ,  have  been  found  satisfactory  by 
the  author  except  where  immediate  effect  is  of  more  im- 
portance than  a  permanent  and  fine  lawn. 


PREPARATION   OF  THE   LAND.  37 


TIME   FOR   SEEDING. 

While  the  spring  is  the  best  time  in  which  to  seed  a  new 
lawn,  it  may  be  done  at  any  time  if  the  proper  conditions 
of  moisture  can  be  obtained.  A  very  large  amount  of 
manure  or  fertilizer  and  a  moist  condition  of  the  soil  will 
enable  one  to  seed  a  lawn  successfully  at  almost  any  time 
of  the  year,  but  these  conditions  are  not  so  certainly  secured 
at  any  other  time  as  in  the  spring.  In  fall  seeding,  unless 
done  very  early,  the  young  plantlets  are  likely  to  be  thrown 
out  by  the  frosts  and  a  second  seeding  be  required  in  the 
spring.  Another  reason  why  spring  is  better  than  sum- 
mer for  seeding  is  that  weed-seeds  do  not  grow  so  readily 
and  abundantly  at  this  time.  Coarse  stable  manure  should 
never  be  used  upon  the  surface  of  the  land,  because  it  en- 
courages the  growth  of  weeds;  but,  if  turned  deeply  under, 
nothing  can  be  better  to  hold  the  moisture  in  the  soil  and 
encourage  deep  rooting  of  the  grasses. 

QUANTITY   OF   SEED   REQUIRED. 

The  amount  of  seed  to  be  used  will  depend  somewhat 
upon  the  season  when  sown  and  the  probable  amount  of 
weed-seeds  that  will  germinate  with  the  grass-seed.  When 
sown  in  April,  May,  or  September,  less  seed  should  be  used 
than  if  sown  in  June,  July,  or  August,  and  more  seed  will 
be  needed  when  the  land  is  full  of  weed-seeds  than  when 
it  is  comparatively  free  from  such  pests. 

It  is  always  best  to  use  an  abundance  of  seed,  as  there 
may  be  some  uncertainty  of  its  all  germinating.  Perhaps 
the  quantity  per  acre  that  will  give  the  best  results  under 


38  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

the  average  conditions  is  2  bu.  of  bent-grass,  i.e.,  red-top 
or  its  varieties,  2  bu.  of  June-grass,  and  10  Ibs.  of  white 
clover.  One  half  of  this  quantity  would  be  sufficient  if  it 
all  was  certain  to  germinate  and  if  no  weed-seeds  started 
into  growth. 

SOWING   THE   SEED. 

After  the  land  has  been  made  perfectly  smooth  and  fine 
by  raking,  rolling,  and  reraking  the  seed  should  be  divided 
into  two  or  more  lots.  The  first  lot  is  then  sown  in  strips 
or  lands,  as  evenly  over  the  surface  as  is  possible,  and  then 
raked  in,  taking  care  not  to  move  the  soil  from  place  to 
place,  thus  bunching  up  the  grass-seed  with  it.  The  second 
lot  of  seed  is  then  sown  in  strips  crossing  the  land  in  the 
opposite  direction  from  the  first  sowing,  thus  securing  the 
most  even  distribution  of  the  seed  possible. 

A  rake  with  long  teeth  set  ahout  2  inches  apart  is  better 
than  the  common  iron-toothed  garden-rake.  If  nothing 
better  can  be  obtained,  the  common  wooden  hay-rake  will 
be  found  to  work  well. 

It  is  the  general  practice  to  roll  the  ground  with  the 
garden-roller  after  the  seed  is  sown,  but  in  extremely  hot 
and  dry  weather,  while  the  soil  may  be  more  thoroughly 
firmed  about  the  seed  by  rolling,  the  smooth  rolled  surface 
leaves  the  young  seedling  so  much  exposed  to  the  action  of 
burning  sun  and  drying  winds  that  grass  often  does  better 
if  the  surface  is  not  rolled  at  all. 

BORDERING   WALKS    AND   DRIVES   WITH   TURF. 

Before  the  seed  is  sown,  if  the  edges  of  walks  and  drives 
are  bordered  with  strips  of  fine  turf  on  each  side,  much 


PREPARATION  OP,  THE   LAKD.  39 

after  labor  will  be  saved,  for  it  is  very  difficult  to  trim  up 
the  edges  of  a  newly  seeded  lawn  without  destroying  much 
of  the  grass;  and  until  the  walk  is  completed  and'  well 
settled  there  is  more  or  less  danger  that  the  outline  will  be 
changed  or  edges  defaced  by  passage  over  them. 

LAWX    MADE   OF   TURF. 

Where  fine,  close  turf  composed  of  desirable  grasses  can 
be  obtained,  if  the  area  is  not  very  extensive,  this  may  be 
the  best  way  to  establish  a  good  lawn.  It  has  the  advantage 
that  it  may  be  done  with  perfect  success  during  the  hottest 
weather,  or  at  any  time  when  the  ground  can  be  worked. 
The  land  should  be  as  carefully  levelled  up  and  settled  as 
for  seeding  and  be  made  equally  rich  if  the  best  results 
are  desired,  though  a  turf  may  be  formed  in  this  way  on 
very  poor  soil,  but  it  will  soon  run  out  under  such  condi- 
tions. In  laying  the  turf  it  should  be  very  firmly  pounded 
down  and  settled  into  the  soft  soil  under  it;  otherwise  it 
soon  dries  up  in  times  of  drouth.  If  turf  is  not  abundant, 
it  may  be  laid  in  strips  one  or  two  feet  apart  and  the  inter- 
vening space  be  seeded,  when  the  roots  from  these  strips 
will  spread  and  a  compact  turf  soon  be  formed  over  the 
whole  ground. 

Great  care  must  be  exercised  on  a  newly  seeded  lawn  that 
it  is  not  cut  up  or  disfigured  by  walking  over  it  or  allowing 
teams  or  animals  on  its  surface.  The  lawn-mower  should 
not  be  allowed  upon  it  until  the  turf  has  become  sufficiently 
firm  to  prevent  the  wheels  from  cutting  in  while  turning 
the  corners.  The  first  two  or  three  cuttings  should  be  done 
with  the  hand-scythe  or  grass-hook. 


40  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 


CLIPPING   THE   LAWN. 

Frequent  clipping  of  the  lawn,  especially  during  the  cool 
weather  of  spring  and  early  fall,  is  necessary  to  make  a  fine 
close  turf.  The  lawn-mower  should  be  run  at  least  once 
each  week,  and  in  case  of  very  warm  moist  weather  it  may 
be  necessary  to  run  it  twice  or  more.  If  the  grass  becomes 
so  tall  and  heavy  that  the  clippings  do  not  settle  down  at 
once  among  the  growing  blades,  it  should  be  caught  in  the 
basket  attached  to  the  mower  or  be  raked  up  and  carried 
away;  for  if  allowed  to  lie  on  the  ground  the  roots  under 
the  close  masses  are  often  destroyed  during  hot  moist 
weather,  and  weeds  will  be  prompt  to  start  in  their  place. 
The  modern  improvements  in  lawn-mowers  leave  but  little 
to  be  desired  in  the  line  of  perfection,  but  which  of  the 
many  machines  is  the  best  is  a  question  I  shall  not  attempt 
to  settle  here.  The  horse-mower  is  a  great  labor-saving 
machine  where  large  areas  are  to  be  cut,  though  it  is  not 
always  possible  to  do  as  good  work  as  is  done  by  the  hand- 
mowers,  and  the  tracks  made  by  the  horse,  unless  lawn- 
shoes  are  worn,  seriously  disfigure  a  soft  or  newly  made 
lawn.  To  enable  the  mower  to  run  up  close  to  shrubbery 
to  cut  the  grass  so  that  no  hand-clipping  need  be  done, 
we  have  practised  taking  out  a  circle  of  turf  about  one  foot 
from  the  trunk  of  trees  or  the  edge  of  a  clump  of  shrubs. 
This  enables  the  machine  to  take  all  of  the  grass  clean  and 
leaves  nothing  for  the  grass-hook  to  cut. 

DRESSING    AND    RENEWING   THE   LAWN. 

Frequent  dressings  of  fine  compost  or  special  fertilizers 
in  the  fall  or  spring  are  necessary  to  keep  any  lawn  in  good 


PREPARATION  OF^TttE  LAtfD.  41 

condition,  and  especially  if  on  poor  soil  or  under  the  shade 
of  large  trees,  whose  roots  take  up  the  plant-food  in  the  soil 
with  great  rapidity. 

Covering  the  lawn  with  coarse  manure  in  the  fall,  to  lie 
more  or  less  exposed  to  view,  is  very  objectionable  and 
unnecessary,  as  a  fine  compost  is  equally  effective  in  pro- 
ducing good  growth  and  gives  off  no  offensive  odors. 
Quickly  soluble  fertilizer,  like  nitrate  of  soda,  sulphate  of 
ammonia,  or  muriate  and  sulphate  of  potash,  may  be  used 
in  limited  quantities — from  200  to  500  Ibs.  per  acre  of  a 
mixture  of  either  of  the  nitrates  with  one  form  of  potash, 
1  part  of  the  former  to  3  of  the  latter,  on  an  established 
laivn;  but  on  a  new  one  these  salts  cannot  be  safely  used 
unless  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  soil  some  time  before 
seeding.  Fine-ground  bone,  fine  fish,  and  cotton-seed  meal 
in  place  of  the  nitrates  may  be  safely  used  under  any  condi- 
tions with  no  fear  of  injury  to  the  roots  or  leaves  of  the 
young  grasses. 

Special  lawn-fertilizers  manufactured  by  nearly  all  of  the 
large  fertilizer-dealers  are  composed  of  materials  well  suited 
to  make  a  rapid  growth  of  lawn-grasses,  but  the  same 
elements  used  in  their  unmixed  condition  will  cost  very 
much  less  and  give  equally  good  results. 

The  quickly  soluble  fertilizing- materials,  i.e.,  salts  of 
ammonia,  soda,  and  potash,  should  be  sown  just  as  growth 
is  beginning  in  the  spring;  while  the  less  soluble,  i.e.,  bone, 
fish,  cotton-seed,  etc.,  may  be  sown  in  the  fall  or  during  the 
winter. 

RESEEDING   THE   LAWK. 

Fertilizing-materials  alone  will  not  keep  the  lawn  in  per- 
fect condition,  but  grass-seed  should  be  frequently  sown 


42  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

and  raked  in  with  the  compost  or  fertilizers.  Perhaps  the 
best  time  to  sow  this  seed  is  in  August,  nature's  natural 
seeding-time,  and  in  the  early  spring  just  as  the  frost  is 
working  out  of  the  ground. 

The  quantity  to  be  used  may  vary  from  one  to  two 
bushels  of  seed  per  acre,  scattering  it  most  freely  where  the 
soil  is  the  poorest  or  where  weeds  are  most  likely  to  come 
into  the  lawn. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

TREES— THEIR  PLANTING  AND  CARE. 

THE  lawn  may  be  considered  the  canvas  upon  which  the 
home-picture  is  to  be  made,  and  trees  and  shrubs,  together 
with  the  buildings,  make  np  the  most  important  materials 
to  be  used  in  the  work,  and  no  comfortable  or  beautiful 
home  can  be  made  without  them.  No  country  can  boast  of 
so  many  beautiful  trees  and  shrubs  as  the  United  States, 
and,  with  the  addition  of  the  choicest  species  and  varieties 
from  many  countries  now  offered  by  our  nurserymen,  we 
have  the  greatest  wealth  of  material  for  the  most  elaborate 
work  of  home  decoration. 

In  Chapter  X  will  be  found  a  full  description  of  the 
most  desirable  trees  and  shrubs  for  growth  in  the  United 
States,  giving  special  conditions  required  for  perfect  growth 
of  each  kind,  to  which  the  reader  is  referred. 

Shade  Needed  about  the  Home. 

Some  shade  about  the  house  is  an  absolute  necessity  for 
comfort  during  the  hot  days  of  our  summer  months,  and 
much  shelter  may  be  afforded  by  them  during  our  bleak 
and  stormy  winters.  But,  more  than  this,  they  are  neces- 
sary in  many  places  to  cover  up  unsightly  or  unpleasant 

43 


44  LANDSCAPE  GARDENING. 

objects,  to  open  vistas,  to  form  backgrounds  for  other 
ornamental  materials,  and  also  for  their  own  individual 
beauty  and  the  variety  they  afford  in  their  varying  shades 
of  color  and  form.  What  beautiful  shades  and  tints  of 
color  may  be  found  in  the  foliage  of  different  trees  and  in 
the  same  trees  at  different  seasons  of  the  year,  and  when 
skilfully  arranged  arid  blended  together  what  beautiful 
pictures  may  be  made  with  them. 

Some  of  our  trees  produce  beautiful  flowers,  others 
beautifully  colored  leaves;  some  take  the  spiry  form,  and 
others  grow  with  well-rounded  outline;  some  grow  with  a 
spreading  or  graceful  habit,  while  others  are  close  and  mas- 
sive in  their  build ;  some  have  thick  and  compact  foliage, 
while  others  are  provided  with  light  and  airy  leaves; — and 
the  true  lover  of  nature  will  find  much  pleasure  in  the 
study  of  the  numberless  forms  and  varieties,  and  especially 
in  arranging  them,  so  as  to  obtain  the  most  real  beauty 
possible. 

A  Plan. 

Before  any  planting  is  done  a  plan  of  arrangement  must 
be  decided  upon.  As  with  plans  for  dwellings,  much  good 
work  can  be  and  is  done  by  amateurs  in  making  plans  for 
ornamental  planting,  but  unless  one  has  made  considerable 
study  of  the  materials  to  be  used  and  the  results  to  be 
obtained  by  their  combination,  and  has  investigated  all  of 
the  points  as  to  the  special  requirements  of  soil,  planting, 
training,  etc.,  of  each  species  or  variety,  the  advice  of  an 
expert  should  be  sought. 

While  in  making  plans  for  the  arrangement  of  ornamental 
trees,  shrubs,  etc.,  the  money  paid  to  a  skilled  landscape- 
gardener  for  a  detailed  plan  often  saves  many  times  this 


TREES— THEIR   PLANTING    AND    CARE.  45 

amount,  I  would  not  discourage  the  study  of  the  landscape 
art  by  advising  every  one  to  have  a  plan  made  by  a  trained 
landscape  engineer;  for  the  more  general  the  knowledge 
among  our  people  there  can  be  upon  any  subject  the  better 
it  will  be  for  the  whole  community,  while  the  monopoly  of 
any  line  of  education  or  knowledge  by  the  few  is  a  crime 
and  an  injury  to  the  people  as  a  whole;  and  many  an 
amateur  has  been  able  to  produce  results  that  have  not 
been  reached  by  members  of  the  profession. 

The  details  of  the  plan  of  arrangement  and  what  trees  to 
use  and  how  many  must  be  largely  settled  by  the  require- 
ments of  the  place  to  be  decorated  and  the  conditions  and 
tastes  of  the  owner.  On  grounds  of  considerable  extent 
with  an  abundance  of  space  large  broad  spreadiag  trees  in 
considerable  variety  can  be  used,  while  in  the  village  lot 
few,  if  any,  large  trees  are  desirable.  Yet  under  some  con- 
ditions a  single  large  tree  not  far  from  the  dwelling,  even 
on  a  small  lot,  may  be  productive  of  much  comfort  and 
pleasure,  and,  while  very  little  variety  may  be  obtained^Jhfl-^ 
effect  is  often  one  of  beauty.  S*&^\  ^^ 

I  UNIVERSITY 
Improving  Established  Trees. 

In  Chapter  VII  brief  reference  is  made  to  the  trea 
of  trees  already  on  the  grounds.  These,  if  large,  should 
be  very  carefully  considered,  and  not  a  single  healthy 
tree  be  destroyed  unless  for  a  positively  good  reason;  for 
the  most  quickly  growing  trees  that  we  have  will  not  reach 
the  size  to  afford  much  shade  until  they  are  fifteen  to 
twenty  years  of  age,  and  if  what  we  have  already  growing 
are  not  quite  what  we  wish  we  may  preserve  them  until 
such  a  time  as  other  and  more  desirable  trees  have  grown 
up  to  take  their  place 


46 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 


The  condition  of  these  trees  often,  especially  where  they 
have  grown  closely  together,  is  generally  such  that  severe 
trimming  and  some  training  may  be  necessary  to  bring  them 
np  to  their  most  heautiful  and  perfect  condition;  but  trees 
with  sound  trunks  and  good  roots  in  good  soil  even  though 
large  and  ill-shaped  may  be  made  ornamental.  Figs.  17, 


FIG.  18. 


FIG.  19. 


19,  20,  and  21  illustrate  trees  as  they  are  often  found, 
and  the  dotted  lines  a  show  where  they  should  be  cut 
or  headed  back  to  give  them  the  proper  start  to  renew 
their  growth.  Fig.  19  shows  a  very  tall  tree  with  branches 
and  leaves  so  far  from  the  ground  that  when  the  foliage  is 
covered  with  moisture  or  the  shoots  with  ice  or  snow  it 
may  be  injured  by  bending  to  the  ground;  when  if  cut 
as  shown  at  a  to  the  height  desired  and  a  leader  en- 
couraged to  form  the  centre  of  the  growth,  with  laterals 


TREES — THEIR   PLANTING   AND    CARE.  -±< 

at  intervals  of  from  six  to  ten  inches  apart,  as  perfect  a  tree 
will  be  formed  as  if  grown  from  seed  or  obtained  from  the 


FIG.  20.  FIG.  21.  FIG.  22. 

FIGS.  20-22. — TREES  AS  OFTEN  FOUND  ON  BUILDING-LOTS. 

nursery  (see  Fig.  18).  When  cut  off  in  this  way,  the 
branches  should  not  be  allowed  to  grow  in  a  cluster  at  the 
top,  as  in  Fig.  2-4,  thus  forming  a  fork  which  is  sure,  sooner 
or  later,  to  break  down  from  weight  of  foliage,  crowding  of 
branches,  or  ice  and  snow.  Many  trees  grow  up  with  forked 
branches  not  very  far  from  the  ground,  as  shown  in  Figs. 
20  and  21,  which  when  they  reach  large  size  will  split  down 
and  thus  ruin  the  whole  tree.  In  this  case  the  smaller  of 
the  two  forked  branches  should  be  cut  away  at  line  «,  the 
head  be  cut  back  if  needed,  and  a  perfectly  formed  tree 
will  be  the  result.  This  fork  is  sometimes  near  the 
ground  and  the  sooner  one  of  the  trunks  is  cut  away  the 
better.  In  Fig.  17  is  shown  a  one-sided  tree,  which  may 


48 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


be  put  into  condition  to  make  a  good  form  by  cutting 
off  the  brandies  at  the  lines  a,  when  with  full  exposure  to 
air  and  sunlight  it  will  take  an  upright  symmetrical  growth. 


FIG.  23.  FIG.  24. 

FIG.   23.— LINES  FOR  THE  PROPER  TRIMMING  OF    ORNAMENTAL 

TREES. 
FIG.  24.— CLUSTERED  GROWTH  OF  BRANCHES. 


Pruning  Old  Trees. 

Fig.  25  illustrates  an  old  tree  which  has  been  severely 
pruned.  Before  pruning,  long  straggling  branches  were 
exposed  to  the  hot  sun  and  drying  winds  and  the  sap 
so  retarded  that  very  little  new  growth  could  be  made. 
If  these  branches  be  headed  back  as  shown  in  the  figure, 
a  new  growth  will  soon  be  sent  out,  the  trunk  and 
branches  soon  be  clothed  and  protected,  and  the  form 
much  improved.  The  best  instance  of  the  success  of  this 
kind  of  pruning  to  which  I  can  call  the  reader's  attention 


TREES — THEIR   PLANTING    AND    CARE.  49 

may  be  seen  at  the  Arnold  Arboretum  at  Jamaica  Plains, 
Mass.,  where,  under  the  skilful  management  of  Prof.  C.  S. 
Sargent  and  Jackson  Dawson,  the  large,  more  or  less 


FIG.  25. — AN  OLD  TREE  HEADED  BACK. 

unsymmetrical  forest  trees  upon  the  grounds  when  the 
planting  of  other  trees  began  have  become  most  beautiful 
and  symmetrical  trees. 

Covering  Wounds. 

"Whenever  large  branches  are  cut  off  or  wounds  are  made 
upon  the  trunk  or  branches,  the  injured  part  should  be 
thickly  covered  over  with  gas-tar  or  linseed-oil  paint.  This 
will  prevent  very  rapid  decay  of  the  wood,  and  when  grown 
over  the  injured  parts  will  remain  comparatively  sound  for 
many  years. 


50  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


Selection  of  Varieties. 

In  the  selection  of  varieties  the  inexperienced  especially 
must  give  the  matter  very  careful  consideration.  Depend- 
ence cannot  be  placed  on  the  often  exaggerated  descriptions 
found  in  the  average  nurseryman's  catalogue.  Especially 
is  this  true  of  new  varieties,  for  no  one  can  tell  just  how 
they  will  do  under  differing  conditions  and  what  insects  or 
diseases  may  be  found  to  destroy  them  as  they  grow  toward 
maturity;  and  nothing  should  be  planted,  in  the  main 
features  of  the  place  at  least,  which  has  not  been  fully  tested 
under  many  varying  conditions.  New  and  untried  things 
should,  if  planted  at  all,  be  put  where  they  may  be  replaced, 
should  they  fail,  without  injury  to  the  main  features  of  the 
grounds. 

With  the  large  numbers  of  parks,  arboretums,  and  exten- 
sive planting  enlarge  estates,  and  especially  the  experiment- 
stations  in  all  of  our  States,  any  one  can  learn  what  are 
desirable  trees  and  shrubs  for  any  given  locality,  and  there 
is  no  need  for  taking  any  risk  in  planting  ornamental 
grounds  with  untried  varieties. 

In  selecting  the  varieties  best  adapted  to  one's  own 
locality  a  few  visits  to  some  of  the  above-mentioned  places, 
a  careful  inspection  of  such  as  may  be  found  growing  in 
the  vicinity,  and  a  study  of  their  adaptability  to  the  various 
kinds  of  soil  will  enable  one  to  make  a  satisfactory  selec- 
tion. 

Size  of  Trees. 

The  size  to  which  different  kinds  of  trees  will  grow  must 
be  fully  understood,  although  this  will  vary  very  much  with 
the  condition  of  the  soil  in  which  they  are  planted. 


TREES — THEIR   PLANTING  AND   CARE.  51 

While  young  they  occupy  but  little  space,  and  the  desire 
to  have  enough  planted  to  give  immediate  effect  often  leads 
to  too  close  planting.  The  larger  the  space  to  be  decorated 
the  more  and  larger  trees  may  be  used  and  the  greater 
variety  obtained. 

The  reader  is  again  urged  to  study  carefully  the  descrip- 
tions given  in  Chapter  X. 

Distance  for  Planting. 

Specimen  trees  should  never  be  planted  so  closely  that 
they  will  touch,  even  when  fully  grown;  but  if  grouped  for 
the  formation  of  a  grove,  for  dense  shade,  close  planting  is 
advisable,  and  the  more  closely  planted  the  taller  will  they 
grow  and  the  fewer  will  be  the  lower  branches. 

While  of  small  size  it  may  be  well  to  plant  closely  for 
immediate  effect,  removing  the  least  desirable  specimens 
before  they  touch  so  as  to  injure  the  more  valuable. 

For  avenues,  for  shade  of  walks  and  drives,  the  distance 
should  be  such  as  to  give  full  development  and  yet  give  the 
desired  shade. 

If  the  walk  or  roadway-space  is  narrow,  the  distance 
lengthwise  may  be  much  greater  than  across  the  space,  as 
in  Fig.  26.  For  the  large-growing  trees,  like  the  elm  and 
oak,  50  feet  is  about  the  best  distance  for  roadside  shade, 
and  for  the  maples,  poplars,  tulip-tree,  etc.,  not  less  than 
30  to  40  feet.  If  shade  is  desired  more  quickly  than  can 
be  obtained  by  full  growth,  the  trees  may  be  set  out  at  half 
the  above  distances,  and  then  when  they  come  together  so 
as  to  endanger  the  beauty  of  all  every  other  one  may  be 
cut  out.  The  great  danger  of  this  practice,  however,  is 
that  we  are  liable  to  neglect  the  desired  thinning  out  until 


52  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

too  late.  If  this  close  planting  is  practised,  it  must  be  borne 
in  mind  that  two  or  more  trees  planted  on  a  given  space 
will  require  more  plant-food  and  more  care  than  one,  but, 
on  the  other  hand,  in  very  exposed  places  one  may  serve 


FIG.  26. — ARRANGEMENT  OF  TREES  ON  NARROW  STREETS,  DRIVES, 
OR  WALKS. 

more  or  less  as  a  shelter  for  the  others,  and  thus  a  better 
growth  be  obtained  than  if  but  one  were  planted. 

Where  to  Obtain  Trees. 

With  the  large  number  of  good  nurseries  in  the  country 
no  one  need  find  any  difficulty  in  obtaining  good  trees  for 
planting.  Other  things  being  equal,  the  nearer  home  the 
trees  are  obtained  the  better,  as  there  is  a  great  deal  of  risk 
to  run  in  buying  trees  from  distant  nurseries  on  account  of 
the  danger  from  injury  by  delay  in  transportation. 

If  one  is  skilled  in  caring  for  trees  in  the  nursery,  small 
seedlings  or  grafted  trees  may  be  obtained  a  few  years  before 
they  are  needed,  and  when  ready  for  planting  they  will  be 
in  the  most  perfect  condition  for  successful  growth,  as  they 


TREES — THKIR   PLANTING   AND   CARE.  53 

may  be  dug  one  at  a  time  and  be  planted  with  the  least 
possible  exposure  to  the  air.  The  work  of  planting  also 
can  then  be  done  at  the  proper  time. 

Much  pleasure  may  be  derived  from  this  work  in  watching 
the  growth  of  the  young  trees  started  from  seed  or  very 
young  grafted  stock,  and  in  training  them  into  proper 
forms.  Good  trees  of  the  elm,  maple,  and  other  deciduous 
trees,  and  some  of  the  evergreens,  may  often  be  dug  from 
pastures  and  roadsides  with  success  and  if  properly  treated 
will  make  a  satisfactory  growth.  The  oaks,  hickories,  and 
others  having  a  long  tap-root  and  few  fibres  need  to  be  dug 
around  one  or  two  seasons  before  transplanting,  cutting  a 
trench  2  feet  deep  and  a  foot  wide  and  filling  it  in  with 
good  soil.  This  will  cause  fine  roots  to  grow  and  then  the 
trees  can  be  successfully  transplanted. 

Time  for  Planting. 

In  light  land  not  too  much  exposed  to  drying  winds  and 
in  climates  where  the  growth  of  the  trees  matures  early  the 
early  fall  is  the  best  time  to  transplant  most  of  our 
deciduous  trees,  but  in  places  much  exposed  to  sweeping 
winds  or  in  heavy  soils  much  injury  is  often  done  to  fall- 
set  trees  by  this  exposure. 

Except  under  the  above  favorable  conditions  spring 
is  by  far  the  most  favorable  season  for  transplanting.  This 
work  should  be  done  as  early  as  possible,  but  not  until  the 
soil  will  work  up  fine  and  mellow. 

If  possible,  the  trees  should  be  on  the  ground  ready  for 
transplanting  at  the  earliest  possible  moment,  and  if  ordered 
from  distant  nurseries  the  order  should  be  sent  in  in  time 
for  prompt  and  early  shipment.  If  the  orders  are  sent 


54  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

during  the  rnsli  of  shipment,  there  are  many  chances  for 
delays,  and  more  injury  will  result  from  delay  at  this  time 
than  if  shipped  early  in  the  season.  If  purchased  in  the 
fall  and  carefully  heeled  in  in  rather  light,  well-drained 
soil,  a  considerable  part  of  the  trunk  covered  with  soil,  and 
the  tops  protected  hy  pine  boughs  or  some  other  light  airy 
covering,  they  will  keep  in  perfect  condition  and  be  ready 
for  planting  at  the  earliest  possible  moment  in  the  spring. 
Evergreens  may  be  transplanted  with  success  at  any  time 
of  the  year  from  April  to  December,  when  the  ground  will 
work  up  fine  and  mellow,  if  the  weather  is  moist  and  soil 
not  very  dry;  but  in  July  and  August  there  is  often  danger 
from  drouth,  and  in  November  the  ground  often  freezes  up 
before  the  soil  has  become  fully  settled  about  the  roots, 
therefore  these  months  are  not  so  desirable  for  transplant- 
ing as  April,  May  and  June.  For  transplanting  evergreens 
a  moist  day,  just  after  an  abundant  rain,  gives  the  most 
perfect  conditions.  Perhaps  the  most  favorable  conditions 
for  transplanting  evergreens  will  be  found  in  the  months  of 
May  and  June. 

Preparation  of  the  Soil. 

Without  a  good  soil  properly  prepared  no  one  should 
expect  to  make  newly  transplanted  trees  grow  satisfactorily. 
If  the  land  is  smooth  and  free  from  rocks,  the  subsoiling 
and  manuring  done  when  fitting  the  land  for  the  lawn  will 
be  sufficient  for  a  good  growth  of  the  trees,  but  if  it  has 
not  been  worked  in  this  way  special  preparation  must  be 
given  the  soil  for  the  roots  of  each  tree.  In  a  naturally 
rich  soil,  if  the  subsoil  is  worked  up  and  partly  replaced  by 
the  surface-soil,  and  good  enriched  soil  be  worked  in  around 
the  roots,  a  vigorous  growth  may  be  expected;  but  if  the 


TREES— THEIR  PLANTING   AND   CARE.  55 

soil  be  poor,  some  fine  compost  mast  be  put  in  around 
them. 

Unfermented  manures  in  large  quantities,  or  fertilizers 
containing  the  salts  of  potash  or  soda,  should  never  be  placed 
in  contact  ivitli  the  roots,  but,  if  used  at  all,  should  be  spread 
on  and  worked  into  the  surface-soil. 

The  space  to  be  prepared  for  the  roots  of  each  tree  should 
be  considerably  larger  than  the  spread  of  the  roots,  varying 
the  size  according  to  the  soil;  the  poorer  the  soil  the  larger 
should  be  the  space  that  is  worked  up. 

Digging  Trees  for  Transplanting. 

More  trees  die  from  injury  received  in  digging  than  from 
any  other  cause,  and  the  greatest  care  must  be  exercised  in 
this  work,  as  so  much  of  the  success  in  transplanting 
depends  upon  how  well  the  work  is  done.  Without  a  good 
root  system,  no  matter  how  favorable  the  other  conditions 
are,  there  can  be  but  little  growth. 

In  digging  the  trees  the  first  thing  to  be  done  is  to 
remove  the  surface-soil  down  to  the  roots  and  then  to  cut 
a  trench  around  the  tree  at  a  distance  of  from  1  to  4  feet, 
according  to  its  size.  With  young  trees,  or  those  that  have 
been  transplanted  once  or  more,  cutting  down  with  a  sharp 
spade  in  a  circle  around  the  trunk  will  be  all  that  is  neces- 
sary, when,  with  the  aid  of  a  strong  spade  on  each  side  and 
a  strong  man  to  pull,  the  tree  may  be  loosened  from  the 
soil  with  a  good  supply  of  roots.  If  the  trees  be  large,  the 
soil  must  be  removed  from  the  trench  to  the  depth  of  the 
lowest  roots,  which  will  be  from  one  to  two  feet,  and  the 
roots  be  then  loosened  and  freed  from  the  soil,  until  the 
ball  can  be  lifted  from  the  hole  or  raised  upon  planks  to  be 


56  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

mounted  on  a  stone-boat  or  low  truck  for  moving  it  to  the 
place  of  transplanting. 

Sometimes  this  moving  can  be  done  best  in  the  winter, 
the  trench  about  the  tree  being  dug  in  the  fall  and  the 
ball  allowed  to  freeze,  when  it  can  be  more  easily  handled. 
But  if  proper  care  is  exercised  no  difficulty  need  be  experi- 
enced in  moving  large  trees  either  in  the  fall  or  spring. 
Trees  with  trunks  a  foot  or  more  in  diameter  may  be  moved 
if  an  excavation  is  made  under  the  root  system  and  a  large 
ball  of  earth  is  taken  up  with  the  roots.  To  move  such 
trees  requires  great  expense,  and  appliances  of  screws  and 
lifting-apparatus  for  raising  and  moving  many  tons  of  soil. 

Pruning  Trees  for  Transplanting. 

No  matter  how  carefully  a  tree  may  be  dug  many  of  the 
roots  will  be  injured,  and  with  trees  that  have  been  dug 
several  weeks,  as  they  often  are  when  purchased  from  a 
considerable  distance,  nearly  all  of  the  feeding-roots  are 
destroyed,  and  can  supply  but  a  small  amount  of  sap  to 
replace  the  moisture  that  evaporates  from  the  large  number 
of  branches  and  buds,  so  that  growth  starts  very  slowly  or 
the  trees  fail  entirely.  By  removing  the  branches  and 
buds  in  proportion  to  the  injury  of  the  roots  a  balance  is 
created.  Considerable  heading  in  of  the  top  should  be  done 
even  if  there  are  but  few  roots  injured  and  only  a  small 
surface  of  branches  and  buds  to  be  supplied  with  sap,  for 
there  will  be  a  much  better  chance  of  the  remaining  buds 
starting,  and  they  will  grow  with  greater  vigor  than  if  no 
pruning  were  done.  After  a  few  strong  active  leaves  have 
been  grown  vigorous  new  cells  will  be  formed  rapidly, 
instead  of  the  weak  sickly  growth  of  the  unpruned  tree. 


TREES— THEIR   PLANTING   AND   CARE.  57 

Figs.  22  and  23  illustrate  trees  properly  pruned  for  plant- 
ing, the  dotted  lines  showing  where  the  cuts  should  be 
made. 

Pruning  too  at  the  time  of  transplanting  is  often  neces- 
sary in  order  to  start  the  branches  at  the  desired  height. 
If  low-branching  trees  are  desired,  it  is  often  necessary  to 
head  them  in  severely  from  the  top,  as  in  Fig.  19.  This 
is  especially  the  case  with  trees  taken  from  swamps, 
pastures,  and  roadsides.  If  all  the  branches  are  cut  off  to 
a  "  b3an-pole  "  condition,  as  is  often  done  with  very  tall 
and  top-heavy  trees,  much  care  must  be  exercised  that  the 
branches  do  not  all  come  out  nearly  at  one  point,  as  in 
Fig.  24.  A  leader  should  always  be  started,  as  shown  in 
Figs.  18  and  23,  and  the  laterals  must  grow  slowly  and  at 
considerable  distance  apart  to  prevent  the  formation  of 
forks  that  will  split  dowu  when  the  trees  are  heavily 
loaded  with  snow  or  ice.  The  height  at  which  the  main 
branches  shall  be  started  depends  upon  the  surrounding 
conditions.  For  covering  avenues  or  walks  a  height  that 
will  clear  the  heads  of  pedestrians  when  the  branches  are 
weighted  with  rain  or  snow  is  sufficient;  and  for  a  drive  a 
height  that  will  clear  any  carriage  or  loaded  team  that  may 
be  driven  under  them  is  sufficiently  high,  unless  it  is 
desirable  to  get  views  or  vistas  under  the  branches  through 
to  pleasing  objects. 

With  trees  from  the  nursery  less  pruning  is  needed  than 
if  taken  from  the  woods  or  roadside,  as  their  root  system  is 
generally  more  compact,  owing  to  transplanting  and  culti- 
vation; but  it  will  be  better  to  prune  as  much  as  is  neces- 
sary to  start  the  tree  in  proper  shape,  cutting  out  all  shoots 
not  in  proper  position  to  form  the  head,  and  shortening  in 
all  of  the  permanent  shoots,  always  preserving  and  en- 


58  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

couraging  a  leader  whether  the  tree  be  naturally  a  round  or 
conical-formed  one;  but  this  applies  more  especially  to  all 
avenue  trees,  which  should  be  kept  growing  most  vigorously 
at  the  centre.  In  Figs.  22  and  23  the  dotted  lines  illustrate 
where  the  cuts  should  be  made.  All  ends  of  roots  that  are 
cut  oft'  or  injured  in  digging  should  be  pared  with  a  sharp 
knife  to  facilitate  the  formation  of  new  roots,  and  when 
large  branches  are  cut  off  the  wounds  should  be  painted 
over  with  some  waterproof  covering,  like  shellac,  grafting- 
wax,  or  linseed-oil  paint,  to  prevent  decay. 

Evergreen  trees  are  not  generally  pruned  much  at  trans- 
planting, but  they  will  be  benefited  by  some  shortening  in 
of  the  end  branches,  cutting  out  all  but  one  leader,  and 
removing  any  branches  that  are  not  needed  to  produce  a 
symmetrical  form. 

Planting  the  Tree. 

No  matter  how  well  the  soil  may  be  prepared,  how  fresh 
the  trees  may  be  when  received,  or  how  well  they  may  have 
been  prepared  for  planting,  if  the  work  of  planting  is  not 
properly  done,  they  may  fail  to  grow  at  all  or  grow  so 
poorly  as  to  give  little  satisfaction. 

Many  failures  in  tree-planting  result  from  the  slovenly 
and  imperfect  way  in  which  the  work  is  done,  and  the 
nurserymen  are  too  often  blamed  for  the  failures. 

In  planting,  the  roots  of  all  trees  should  have  a  fine 
mellow  bed  of  good  soil,  which  should  be  pressed  firmly 
into  contact  with  every  fibre,  leaving  no  air-spaces  around 
any  of  them,  and  every  one  should  be  spread  out  in  a 
natural  position  and  so  that  no  two  shall  touch  each  other. 
Immediately  in  contact  with  these  roots  good  soil  should  be 


TREES— THEIR   PLANTING   AND   CARE.  59 

very  firmly  pressed,  so  that  new  roots  will  be  encouraged  to 
start  out  at  the  earliest  possible  moment. 

The  late  Peter  Henderson,  than  whom  there  have  been 
few,  if  any,  more  successful  growers  of  all  kinds  of  plants  and 
trees,  tells  a  story  in  one  of  his  catalogues  illustrating  the 
benefit  from  the  firm  pressure  of  the  soil  about  the  roots. 
"  A  lady  to  whom  he  had  sold  some  roses  wrote  to  him 
about  the  condition  of  her  plants  after  she  had  spent  much 
time  in  planting  and  caring  for  them,  stating  that  only  one 
out  of  a  dozen  had  lived,  and  that  one  her  husband,  who 
weighed  240  Ibs.,  had  accidentally  stepped  upon  soon  after 
planting."  It  is  also  sometimes  said  that  the  "  heaviest 
man  or  the  one  with  the  largest  feet  is  the  best  man  to 
plant  trees." 

Too  much  pressure  may  be  given  to  the  soil  above  the 
roots  in  planting,  but  generally  the  error  is  in  the  opposite 
direction.  To  crowd  the  soil  under  and  around  the  roots  and 
press  it  firmly,  a  pointed  stick  is  often  better  than  the  foot. 

In  planting,  the  tree  is  placed  in  the  hole  at  the  same 
depth  it  grew  in  the  nursery  if  the  soil  is  of  the  same  char- 
acter, a  little  deeper  if  it  is  lighter,  and  perhaps  a  little 
nearer  the  surface  if  heavier,  and  after  carefully  spreading 
out  the  roots  it  is  ready  for  the  covering.  Only  fine,  mod- 
erately rich  soil  should  be  used  for  filling  in  around  the 
roots,  and  this  should  be  carefully  worked  into  place  with 
the  hands  and  firmly  pressed,  until  all  the  roots  are 
covered  two  or  three  inches  deep,  when  the  work  may  be 
completed  by  treading  down  and  tamping,  taking  care  that 
the  bark  cf  the  roots  is  not  injured  in  the  process. 

After  the  fine  soil  to  the  depth  of  three  or  four  inches 
is'firmly  pressed  in  place  that  remaining  is  thrown  loosely 
on  top  and  not  trodden  at  all,  thus  serving  as  a  mulch. 


60  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

When  the  soil  is  compacted  on  the  surface,  it  is  in  condition 
to  rapidly  carry  off  the  moisture,  but  if  it  is  light  and 
mellow  its  capillary  condition  is  broken  up  and  the  moisture 
cannot  escape. 

Watering  at  Planting. 

If  the  soil  is  fairly  moist  and  firmly  pressed  about  the 
roots,  there  is  no  need  of  applying  water  to  the  roots  of 
trees  at  planting;  but  if  in  a  very  dry  state,  water  may  be 
used  in  the  hole  before  setting  the  tree,  filling  it  up  several 
times,  and  after  it  settles  away  put  the  tree  in  place. 
Another  very  good  way  of  watering  in  a  very  dry  time  is, 
after  the  roots  have  been  covered  with  three  or  four  inches 
of  soil,  if  water  is  filled  in  two  or  three  times  and  be  allowed 
to  settle  away,  and  then  the  surface-soil  be  filled  in  light 
and  loose,  better  results  will  be  obtained  with  a  few  pail- 
fuls  of  water  than  if  large  quantities  is  used  on  the  surface 
after  the  tree  is  planted.  Little  benefit  can  result  from  the 
application  of  water  to  the  surface  after  planting  unless  a 
large  quantity  is  used,  so  as  to  saturate  the  soil  down  to  the 
roots,  for  the  diffusion  of  water  through  the  soil  when 
applied  to  the  surface  is  so  slow  that  it  will  take  a  long 
time  to  obtain  this  result;  besides,  this  surface-watering 
compacts  the  soil  so  that  after  it  is  done  the  moisture 
escapes  more  rapidly  than  before.  This  evaporation  after 
watering  may  in  a  measure  be  prevented,  however,  if  the 
surface-soil  is  stirred  up  with  a  fine  rake  two  or  three  inches 
deep,  the  fine  soil  serving  as  a  mulch. 

Mulching. 

Many  newly  planted  trees  start  into  growth  in  the  early 
summer  and  then  from  lack  of  moisture  fail  to  grow. 


TREES — THEIR    PLANTING    AND    CARE.  61 

Where  water  is  not  available  a  inulch  of  some  coarse  organic 
matter,  like  straw,  meadow  hay,  corn-stalks,  fine  brush, 
weeds,  or  even  planing-machine  shavings  or  spent  tan-bark, 
covering  a  little  larger  area  than  the  size  of  the  hole  in 
which  the  tree  was  set,  will  aid  in  keeping  the  moisture 
from  escaping.  This  should  not  be  put  on  more  than 
two  or  three  inches  in  thickness,  for  if  too  thick  it 
causes  the  roots  to  grow  near  the  surface,  when  they  would 
be  liable  to  injury  during  the  winter  or  in  extreme  dry 
weather. 

Keeping  up  an  After-growth. 

When  the  trees  are  planted,  it  must  not  be  expected  that 
the  end  of  one's  work  has  come,  for  unless  the  soil  is 
naturally  very  rich  or  is  made  so  by  heavy  manuring  trees 
will  not  continue  to  grow  without  some  additional  plant 
food  each  year.  When  planted  on  the  lawn,  if  the  grass  is 
clipped  once  or  twice  each  week  and  liberally  dressed  in  the 
fall  or  spring,  little  or  no  further  fertilizing  for  the  trees 
may  be  needed;  but  even  under  this  condition  a  mound  of 
manure  banked  against  the  trunks  before  the  ground  freezes 
in  the  fall  will  be  of  great  protection  to  the  collar  or  crown 
of  the  roots.  This  method  of  manuring  trees  in  poor  soil 
is  advisable,  a  liberal  supply  being  used,  and  in  the  spring 
spreading  it  around  on  the  lawn  about  the  trees.  Com- 
mercial fertilizers,  like  ground  bone  and  potash,  fish  and 
potash,  or  even  the  specially  prepared  fruit-tree  fertilizers, 
may  be  successfully  used. 

The  Arrangement  of  Trees. 

Trees  are  arranged  or  grouped  together  in  ornamental 
gardening  to  accomplish  the  following  results:  for  shelter 


G2  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

from  cold  winds,  for  screens  to  shut  out  objectionable  views, 
and  in  groups  alone  or  combined  with  shrubs  for  ornamen- 
tal effect  or  to  serve  as  a  background  for  or  setting  to  the 
house,  thus  completing  or  finishing  the  home-picture. 

TREES    FOR   SHELTER. 

Scarcely  a  location  can  be  selected  where  there  is  not 
some  point  that  needs  protection  or  shelter  from  prevail- 
ing winds  or  from  storms,  and  generally  only  those  trees 
that  are  very  hardy  and  provided  with  an  abundance  of 
thick  tough  foliage  should  be  used.  They  are  more  com- 
monly planted  on  the  north  or  west  exposure,  and  should 
be  set  as  closely  as  possible  and  have  them  grow  to  a  good 
degree  of  perfection.  If  immediate  shelter  is  needed,  close 
planting  may  be  advisable,  but  the  surplus  trees  should  be 
removed  as  soon  as  they  begin  to  interfere  with  the  perfec- 
tion of  those  desired  for  permanent  growth.  It  is  always  best 
to  plant  those  that  are  the  most  desirable  for  permanent 
growth  at  the  proper  distance  for  full  development,  and 
then  arrange  the  more  temporary  kinds  so  that  they  may 
be  finally  cut  out.  In  this  work,  as  in  all  grouping  of 
trees  and  shrubs,  it  is  best  to  obtain  as  much  contrast  and 
variety  of  form  and  color  as  possible,  and  yet  have  a 
pleasant  blending  of  all  the  characteristic  features. 

Evergreens  are  generally  planted  for  purposes  of  shelter, 
as  they  hold  their  foliage  during  the  winter,  though  a  mix- 
ture of  deciduous  and  evergreen  trees  will  give  the  most 
satisfactory  picture.  The  evergreens,  especially  when 
massed,  produce  a  sombre  effect,  which  is  lightened  and 
relieved  by  the  introduction  of  some  deciduous  trees,  like 
the  birches,  golden  willows,  etc. 

The  larger  and  more  stately  trees  should  be  set  at  the 


TREES — THEIR    PLANTING   AND    CARE. 


63 


border  of  a  corner  group,  or,  as  in  Fig.  27,  in  the  centre  of 
isolated  groups,  the  smaller  or  more  graceful  and  orna- 
mental kinds  being  grouped  about  them,  and  if  possible  so 


FIG.  27.— LARGE-GROWING  TREES  AHRANGED  IN  CENTRE  OP 
GROUPS. 


that  there  may  be  a  gradual  diminution  in  size  at  all  points 
of  view  from  the  centre  to  outside  of  the  group. 

The  size  of  the  trees  to  be  used  must  vary  with  the 
extent  of  the  grounds  on  which  they  are  planted  and  the 
height  of  the  desired  shelter.  On  very  small  lots  a  single 
large  tree  with  a  few  smaller  ones  grouped  around  it  will 
afford  much  shelter. 


64  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 


TREES    FOR    SCREENS. 

The  useful  and  ornamental  may  be  combined  with  good 
effect  in  grouping  trees  for  screens,  i.e.,  to  cut  off  objec- 
tionable views  or  to  enhance  the  beauty  of  desirable  ones. 
The  same  rules  should  be  observed  in  their  arrangement  as 
in  planting  for  shelter.  The  effects  to  be  obtained  in  this 
kind  of  grouping  are  many.  Unsightly  objects  viewed 
from  the  house  may  be  covered  or  hidden  from  view,  as  well 
as  objects  on  the  grounds  that  it  is  desired  to  screen  from 
the  house  or  from  public  view,  as  the  clothes-yard,  stable 
and  other  outbuildings,  etc.  The  quiet  retreat  where  one 
may  be  away  from  the  public  gaze  is  a  feature  to  be  desired 
in  every  more  or  less  thickly  settled  community,  but  the 
great  mistake  often  made  of  planting  a  close  hedge  or  screen 
around  the  entire  grounds,  shutting  off  all  view  from  both 
inside  and  outside,  should  be  avoided. 

The  ornamental  features  of  our  grounds  should  be  made 
with  the  view  of  adding  as  much  of  beauty  and  comfort  to 
them  as  possible,  and  if  we  succeed  in  creating  anything  of 
beauty  or  comfort  others  are  entitled  to  share  it  with  us  to 
the  extent  at  least  of  looking  upon  its  beauty. 

Grouping  for  Ornamentation. 

When  neither  shelter  nor  screens  are  needed,  ornamen- 
tal trees  are  planted  as  a  setting  to  the  buildings  or  for 
the  decoration  of  the  grounds,  and  in  this  work  much 
knowledge  of  the  various  forms,  colorings,  and  distinctively 
characteristic  features  of  trees  is  needed.  The  more  one 
studies  trees  and  shrubs  and  their  artistic  grouping  the 
greater  will  be  his  success. 


TREES— THEIR    PLANTING    AND    CARE.  65 

But  in  this  grouping  the  effect  both  of  shelter  or  screens 
and  of  beauty  may  be  obtained  by  careful  study  of  materials 
and  their  skilful  arrangement. 

NATURE    AS    A    GUIDE. 

In  nature  we  sometimes  find  most  beautiful  illustrations 
of  the  grouping  of  trees,  on  knolls,  in  the  shady  dell  or 
open  field,  and  much  may  be  learned  by  following  this  most 
versatile  teacher.  In  many  cases,  however,  art  can  improve 
upon  nature.  We  can  improve  upon  most  of  the  effects  we 
find  about  us  by  providing  the  best  possible  conditions  of 
soil  and  surroundings  for  the  development  of  each  specimen. 
We  can  collect  from  all  quarters  of  the  globe  the  most 
beautiful  of  her  treasures,  and  make  each  specimen  of  a 
group  grow  to  its  greatest  perfection,  which  seldom  occurs 
in  nature's  grouping.  We  can  create  nothing,  but  we  can 
use  all  of  nature's  blessings  so  that  beauty  and  good  may 
be  the  result. 

TOO    CLOSE    PLANTING. 

One  of  the  greatest  mistakes  made  in  grouping  ornamen- 
tal trees  is  too  close  planting,  as  has  been  suggested  on 
a  previous  page,  and  unless  immediate  results  are  desired 
each  specimen  should  be  given  space  sufficient  for  its  full 
development.  In  this,  work  as  much  variety  is  desirable 
as  it  is  possible  to  obtain  and  at  the  same  time  secure 
harmony  of  'forms  and  colors.  (Fig.  55.) 

RULES    FOR   GROUPING. 

1.  Groups  of  trees  of  similar  characteristics  should  gen- 
erally be  avoided  unless  the  place  is  of  large  extent.  If 


66  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

we  plant  all  conical  trees,  like  the  spruces,  larch,  Lombarcly 
poplar,  fastigiate  oak,  etc.,  all  low-growing  spreading  trees, 
all  trees  with  yellow  foliage  or  those  with  purple  foliage,  by 
themselves,  we  do  not  get  as  pleasing  results  as  if  a  variety 
of  forms,  colors,  and  sizes  are  used  and  are  arranged  in  a 
natural  and  artistic  manner.  In  Fig.  27  we  have  a  very 
pleasing  arrangement  of  large  and  small  trees  and  shrubs,  as 
well  as  a  pleasing  blending  of  forms,  each  placed  so  as  to 
bring  out  the  peculiar  features  and  all  producing  a  pleasant 
picture.  In  Fig.  31  is  illustrated  the  grouping  of  trees  and 
shrubs  along  the  borders  of  a  walk  or  a  curved  roadway,  in 
which  vistas  are  left  open.  The  larger  and  heavier  trees 
are  grouped  in  the  centre  and  the  smaller  ones  around  them. 

2.  As  in  the  arrangement  for  shelter  or  screens,  so  in 
the  ornamental   groups   the   tallest  trees  and  those  most 
spiry   will   be   more   pleasing   if  grouped   in   the    centre 
or  background,  with  the  lower,  more  rounded  or  graceful 
kinds  placed  in  order  of  size,  keeping  in  mind,  of  course, 
variety  and  contrast,  and  yet  securing  harmony  of  colors  as 
much  as  possible.     Trees  with  very  heavy  or  dark  foliage 
should  not  be  planted  by  the  side  of   those  with  light, 
feathery  or  very  fine  foliage,  but  something  of  an  inter- 
mediate tone  should  be  introduced  between  them.     So  a 
very  small  tree  should  not  be  planted  close  up  to  one  of 
large  size  if  its  branches  are  carried  high,  but  if  the  branches 
come  to  the  ground  with  a  broad  slope,  as  in  Fig.  27,  both 
a  distant  and  close  planting  will  be  pleasing. 

3.  The  trees  having  the  greatest  individual  beauty  should 
be  put  in  such  position  that  their  beauty  will  be  enhanced 
by  having  a  good  background  or  a  good  setting.     Thus  the 
appearance  of  a  purple-leaved  beech  will  be  improved  if 
planted  in  front  of  or  in  the  angle  formed  by  silver  maples 


TREES — THEIR   PLANTING   AND   CARE.  67 

and  golden  poplars.  The  foliage  of  trees  like  the  golden 
poplar,  maple,  or  elm  will  be  injured  in  effect  if  planted  in 
contrast  with  trees  of  a  bluish  or  very  glaucous  color,  while 
trees  with  showy  flowers  will  be  made  more  conspicuous  if 
planted  with  a  mass  of  dark-colored  foliage  for  a  back- 
ground. 

4.  Specimen  trees,  i.e.,  those  that  stand  out  on  the  lawn 
conspicuously,   should  be   those  of  characteristic  beauty. 
The  oak  has  the  characteristic  beauty  of  strength ;  the  elm 
that  of  graceful,  arching  form;  the  purple  beech,  Nord- 
mann's  fir,  and  the  Colorado  blue  spruce  great  beauty  of 
coloring;  the  cut-leaved  weeping  birch  and  Japanese  weep- 
ing cherry  the  beauty  of  graceful,  flowing  outline;  and  each 
and  all  of  the  more  common  ornamental  trees  have  some 
characteristic  beanty  which  it  should  be  the  study  of  the 
landscape  artist  to  bring  out  in  grouping  them  together. 

5.  Groups  should  not  be  planted  so  as  to  present  a  too 
solid  appearance,  and  if  arranged  so  as  to  give  each  speci- 
men its  proper  distance  and  setting   there  will   be  little 
danger  of  this  result.     To  still  further  lighten  up  a  group 
that  has  a  teudency  to  too  much  compactness,  small  isolated 
specimens  in  the  lawn  at  a  little  distance  from  the  outside 
tree  may  be  planted,  as  shown  in  Figs.  27  and  28. 

6.  Where  the  surface  of  the  lawn  is  rolling,  instead  of 
arranging  the  trees,  as  in  Fig.  29,  much  better  effect  will  be 
produced  by  dividing  the  group,  as  shown  in  Fig.  30.     In 
this  way  a  much  smaller  number  of  trees  will  give  more  real 
beauty  to  the  grounds  than  if  all  were  planted  in  a  line  or 
a  close  group. 

7.  When  planting  along  walks  or  drives,  an  effort  should 
be  made   to   group  as  naturally  as  possible   and,   if   the 
curve  of  the  walk  or  drive  is  made  to  extend  around  and 


68 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


beyond  what  seems  to  be  the  natural  and  direct  line  of 
travel,  to  so  place  the  trees  or  shrubs  as  to  overcome  the 


FIG.  28.— SMALL  TREES  OR  SHRUBS  ON  BORDER  OF  GROUPS. 


FIG.  29. — TREES  SET  m  Too  FORMAL  MANNER. 


FIG.  30. — TREES  SET  IN  NATURAL  GROUPS. 

feeling  that  a  greater  distance  is  being  travelled  to  go  from 
one  place  to  another  than  is  necessary.  A  very  good  idea 
of  this  grouping  is  shown  in  Figs.  31  and  32. 


TREES — THEIR   PLANTING   AND   CARE.  69 


FIG.  31. — TREES  AND  SHRUBS  GROUPED  ALONG  WALKS  AND 
DRIVES. 


FIG.  32.— TREES  AND  SHRUBS  GROUPED  ALONG  WALKS  AND 
DRIVES. 


70 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 


FIG.  33. — TREES  AND  SHRUBS  PLANTED  ALONG  RADIATING  LINES 
TO  AFFORD  VISTAS. 


TREES— THETR   PLANTING    AND   CARE. 


71 


FIG.  34.— TREES  AND  SHRUBS  PLANTED  ALONG  MANY  RADIATING 
LINES  TO  AFFORD  VISTAS  IK  MANY  DIRECTIONS. 


72  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

8.  Vistas  or  openings  should  be  provided  wherever  inter- 
esting objects  or  views  are  presented,  and  the  arrangement 
of  trees  and  shrubs  be  in  radiating  lines,  as  shown  in  Figs. 
33  and  34.     In  thie  manner  vistas  or  pleasing  views  may 
be  arranged  from  the  prominent  points  of  the  house,  as 
from  the  verandas,  bay  windows,  or  piazzas,  from  various 
points  on  the  lawn,  and  the  planting  may  be  so  made  that 
the  pleasing  features  of  the  grounds  may  be  enjoyed  by 
those  outside.    Considerable  skill  will  be  required  sometimes 
to  aiford  a  screen  at  certain  points  from  an  intrusive  public, 
to  open  views  to  others,  and  at  the  same  time  to  secure 
the  best  of  the  outside  beauty  to  the  occupants  of  the  house. 
Very  pretty  views  or  vistas  are  shown  in  Fig.  13  and  in  the 
frontispiece,  at  the  left  in  both  pictures. 

9.  If  the  groups  are  planted  near  the  house,  trees  or 
shrubs  of  small  size  will  often  cut  off  objectionable  views 
which  would  require  much  larger  specimens  if  planted  at 
greater  distance,  as  shown  in  Fig.  35.    In  case  of  large  trees 


FIG.  35. — EFFECT  OF  SCREEN  TREES  AT  DIFFERENT  DISTANCES 
FROM  HOUSE. 

near  the  dwelling  vistas  may  be  obtained  from  under  the 
branches,  and  a  tree  well  headed  up  gives  an  abundance  of 
shade  and  at  the  same  time  a  good  circulation  of  air,  wlr'ch 
are  very  desirable  during  the  hot  summer  months. 

10.   The  beauty  and  comfort  obtained  in  all  this  work  of 


TREES — THEIR   PLANTING   AlSTB   CARE. 


73 


grouping  depends  very  largely  upon  how  carefully  every 
point  suggested  above  is  studied  and  viewed  from  all  sides, 
and  how  fully  the  planter  understands  the  height  which  each 
of  the  species  planted  will  attain  under  different  conditions 
of  soil,  exposure,  etc. ;  for  while  the  trees  are  young  the  vis- 
tas and  covering  may  be  just  right,  it  may  take  but  a  few 
feet  of  growth  at  one  side  or  above  the  group  often  to  hide 
from  view  some  of  the  most  beautiful  features  of  the  place. 
11.  Groups  of  trees  are  generally  in  good  taste  planted 
on  both  sides  of  a  walk  or  drive  at  the  entrance  from  the 
street,  Fig.  36.  Arranged  in  this  way  they  serve  to  mark 


FIG.  36. — TREES  AND  SHRUBS  GROUPED  AT  GATEWAY  OR  OPENING 
OF  WALK  OR  DRIVE. 

the  exit  or  entrance  in  a  definite  way  when  seen  from  a  dis- 
tance or  during  the  night-time. 

12.  Corners  or  abrupt  angles  in  the  boundary-line  may 
be  filled  up  with  trees  and  shrubs  so  as  to  present  a  most 
pleasing  effect,  not  secured  if  these  features  are  left  with- 
out decorations. 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 


13.  In  nature  we  often  find  most  beautiful  groups  of  trees 
on  the  tops  of  rounded  surfaces  which  we  may  well  copy  in 
this  particular  where  such  features  of  surface  are  found. 
This  point  is  shown  in  Figs.  37  and  38,  and  if,  as  in  these 


FIG.  37.— TREES  AND  SHRUBS  GROUPED  AT  CROWN  OF  ROUNDED 

SURFACES. 


FIG.  38- — TREES  AND  SHRUBS  GROUPED  ON  A  ROUNDED  SURFACE. 

illustrations,  some  picturesque  or  strikingly  beautiful  tree 
is  planted  in  the  group  it  is  sure  to  attract  attention. 
14.  To  cover  up  or  to  break  the  monotony  of  a  straight 


TREES— THEIR  PLANTING-  AND  CARE-  75 

line  of  trees,  a  hedge,  or  a  bank  wall,  trees  and  shrnbs  may 
be  grouped  in  a  more  or  less  irregular  yet  artistic  manner 
some  distance  away  with  very  pleasing  effect. 

15.  In  the  grouping  of  trees  and  shrubs  there  should  be 
an  effort  made  to  obtain  vistas  of  as  great  extent  as  possible 
in  one  or  more  places.     By  such  an  arrangement  even  small 
places  will  appear  of  much  larger  extent  than  if  only  short 
vistas  within  the  grounds  are  provided,  and  more  pleasing 
to  the  eye  from  the  fact  that  a  greater  variety  of  objects 
may  be  seen  at  once. 

16.  Ornamental  grounds  will  be  pleasing  in  proportion 
to  the  number  of  beautiful  pictures  presented.     If  all  parts 
are  seen  at  one  time,  interest  is  soon  satisfied.     It  is  possi- 
ble, however,  to  provide  very  many  pleasing  features  on 
places  even  of  small  extent  if  the  foregoing  rules  are  care- 
fully studied. 


CHAPTER  V. 

SHRUBS,  HEDGES,  AND  HARDY  CLIMBERS. 

SHKUBS  may  serve  under  some  conditions,  e.g.,  on  small 
places,  the  purpose  of  screens  when  planted  near  the  build- 
ings, or  near  the  street  when  the  land  slopes  upward  toward 
the  house,  hut  in  very  few  places  can  they  be  used  for 
shelter.  They  are  especially  adapted  to  add  finishing 
touches  and  cause  a  blending  between  the  trees  and  lawn 
or  for  massing  in  ornamental  groups  on  small  grounds. 

They  present  a  much  greater  variety  in  form,  size,  and 
color  than  the  trees.  Among  them  we  have  the  most 
beautiful  colors  and  variegations  of  foliage,  the  most  beau- 
tiful grace  of  outline,  and  the  greatest  variety  of  forms  and 
colors  of  blossoms,  coming  on  more  or  less  from  the  earliest 
spring  to  late  summer  or  early  autumn,  which  afford  material 
for  the  most  beautiful  effects.  Being  small  they  will  give 
a  much  greater  number  of  forms  and  colors  on  places  of 
limited  size  than  can  be  obtained  from  the  use  of  trees. 
For  description  of  shrubs  see  Chapter  XII. 

Preparation  of  Land,  Planting,  Grouping,  etc. 

The  preparation  of  the  land,  the  pruning  preparatory 
for  and  the  planting  of  shrubs,  are  so  similar  to  those 
required  for  trees  that  directions  need  not  be  repeated  here. 

The  same  rules  also  as  for  trees  should  be  followed  in  regard 

76 


SHRUBS,   HEDGES,   AND    HARDY    CLIMBERS.  77 

to  individuals  or  groups  as  to  distance,  blending 

and  forms,  etc. 

UNIVERSITY 

TWO    METHODS    OF    GROUPING. 

Two  methods  of  grouping  are  commonly  practised,  i.e., 
1st,  the  grouping  of  many  flowering  varieties  in  one  mass 
whereby  some  kinds  may  be  in  bloom  at  all  times  from 
April  to  November,  and  2d,  the  arrangement  of  large 
masses  of  one  species  or  variety  together  so  as  to  produce 
very  marked  effect.  The  former  will  generally  give  the 
most  satisfaction  on  small  grounds,  but  on  places  of  consid- 
erable extent  the  most  pleasing  results  will  be  obtained 
by  planting  many  specimens  of  one  kind  in  a  group.  For 
example,  large  groups  of  Forsythias,  Spiraea  Van  Houttii, 
Hydrangea  paniculata,  Japanese  snowball,  etc.,  arranged  in 
large  masses,  present  beautiful  views  and  strong  contrasts 
that  cannot  be  obtained  in  any  other  way. 

At  the  entrance  of  the  grounds,  as  in  Fig.  36,  beside  the 
walk  or  drive,  or  at  their  forkings,  as  in  Fig.  39,  groups  of 
shrubs  fix  the  attention  on  the  change  of  direction,  and  we 
pass  on  or  change  from  one  walk  to  another  less  conscious 
of  the  change  of  direction  than  if  only  the  plain  walk  was 
before  us. 

Another  use  of  shrubs  may  be  found  in  their  serving  to 
give  a  reason  for  abrupt  changes  of  direction  or  the 
termination  of  a  walk,  as  shown  in  Figs.  40  and  41,  and 
also  to  make  a  curved  walk  on  small  grounds  appear  the 
most  natural  and  the  shortest  distance  between  two  points, 
as  in  Fig.  31. 

Change  of  curves  in  walks  are  made  to  appear  more 
natural  if  tbe  borders  are  more  or  less  decorated  with  shrubs 


78 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 


FIG.  39.— TREES  AND  SHRUBS  GROUPED  AT  BRANCHING  OF  WALK 
OR  DRIVE. 


FIG.  40.  FlG>  41i 

FIGS.  40,  41.— TREES  AND  SHRUBS  GROUPED  AT  END  OR  TURN  OF 

WALK. 


SHRUBS,    HEDGES,    ASD    HARDY    CLIMBERS.  79 

at  points  where  there  would  be  a  temptation  to  cut  across 
to  shorten  the  distance,  as  in  Fig.  31.  They  also  serve  to 
cover  up  and  break  the  monotony  of  the  walk  by  obscuring 
changes  until  it  becomes  necessary  for  one  to  make  the  turn 
to  reach  one  point  or  another.  A  combined  group  of 
trees  and  shrubs  illustrating  the  shrubs  planted  a  little  way 
from  the  trees  is  shown  in  Fig.  34. 

PHUXING    OF   SHRUBS. 

In  pruning  shrubs  they  should  be  allowed  to  take  their 
most  natural  and  perfect  form;  and,  when  branches  become 
old  and  weak,  they  should  be  cut  away  from  the  inside t 
thus  thinning  out  and  allowing  new  shoots  to  grow  to  take 
their  place,  as  at  «,  Fig.  47. 

The  practice  of  shearing  shrubs  on  the  outside  only, 
without  thinning  out  any  of  the  inside  branches,  cannot  be 
too  severely  condemned,  for  it  not  only  gives  them  an  un- 
natural form  in  which  there  is  little  or  no  beauty,  but  it 
causes  an  increase  in  the  number  of  small  and  imperfect 
shoots  at  the  ends  of  the  branches,  thus  shutting  out  the 
sunlight  and  resulting  in  a  very  imperfect  growth,  that 
produce  very  few,  if  any,  flowers. 

The  best  blooms  of  some  kinds  of  shrubs  are  borne  on 
wood  of  two  or  more  years'  growth,  and  the  annual 
pruning  often  destroys  much  of  this  growth  and  forces  the 
shrub  to  make  wood  at  the  expense  of  blossoms.  In  the 
case  of  the  Hydrangia  and  Hibiscus,  however,  which 
bloom  late  in  the  season  and  from  the  new  shoots,  annual 
pruning  of  the  old  wood  will  result  in  larger  and  better 
flowers.  Early-blooming  shrubs,  like  the  Spiraea,  Weigelas, 
Forsythias,  lilacs,  Exochordia,  etc.,  may  be  trimmed  in 


80  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

early  summer  just  after  blooming  with  the  best  results; 
while  the  Hydrangea,  althea,  and  clethra,  etc.,  should 
be  pruned  in  fall,  winter,  or  early  spring.  If  left  a  long 
time  unpruned,  whether  in  groups  or  planted  singly, 
most  shrubs  become  irregular  in  form  and  lose  their 
beauty. 

By  careful  pruning  and  proper  arrangement  beds  or 
groups  of  shrubs  may  be  made  to  keep  as  good  form  and 
appearance  for  many  years  as  if  newly  planted.  The  larger- 
growing  shrubs  should  be  planted  in  the  centre  and  the 
smaller  ones  on  the  border  of  the  groups,  each  kind  thus 
showing  its  natural  size  and  beauty  if  given  space  for  full 
development. 

Hedges.* 

The  arrangement  of  trees  or  shrubs  in  the  close  form 
of  the  hedge  is  under  some  conditions  desirable  and  can 
often  be  done  with  pleasing  effect,  though  generally  only 
the  very  low  hedge — one  to  three  feet  high — can  be  con- 
sidered decidedly  ornamental. 

For  the  complete  seclusion  of  the  nursery  and  play- 
ground, the  clothes-drying  yard,  etc.,  or  where  the  space 
is  very  limited,  the  large  hedge  is  sometimes  allowable. 

PREPARATION    OF    LAND. 

To  make  a  satisfactory  hedge,  the  ground  is  to  be  as 
well  prepared  as  for  the  growth  of  trees  or  shrubs  under 
any  other  conditions,  and  as  the  plants  are  set  out  more 
thickly  than  where  grouped  for  ornamentation,  it  should 
be  made  richer  by  an  additional  supply  of  suitable  plant- 
food. 

*  See  description  of  hedge-plants,  page  219. 


SHRUBS,    HEDGES,    AND    HARDY    CLIMBERS.  81 


AVOID    CLOSE    PLANTING. 

One  of  the  greatest  mistakes  made  in  planting  hedges  is 
in  the  distance  at  which  the  trees  or  shrubs  are  planted. 
When  set  one  foot  apart  or  less,  as  is  sometimes  practised, 
if  the  kinds  of  plants  used  naturally  grow  to  large  trees,  as 
with  the  hemlock,  spruce,  arbor-vitae,  honey-locust,  etc., 
some  of  the  plants  will  grow  more  rapidly  than  the  others, 
some  will  die  out,  and  all  will  be  seriously  injured  by  the 
attempt"  to  grow  them  in  so  contracted  a  space.  The  dis- 
tance best  for  planting  must  vary  with  the  variety,  but  they 
should  have  room  enough  to  enable  them  to  make  a  suffi- 
cient growth  to  keep  them  in  a  healthy  condition.  Norway 
spruces,  hemlocks,  large  forms  of  the  arbor-vitaes,  honey- 
locusts,  etc.,  should  be  planted  five  feet  apart  at  least,  and 
be  forced  to  spread  out  and  grow  laterally  by  cutting  in  at 
the  top  until  strong  main  branches  are  formed  near  the 
ground.  If  immediate  effect  is  desired,  small  plants  may 
be  set  closely,  and  when  they  touch  be  transplanted  again 
with  a  little  greater  distance  between  them  or  every  other 
one  be  taken  out.  In  this  way,  if  plants  are  set  over  only 
one  half  of  the  line  desired  at  first,  as  they  crowd  the  line 
can  be  extended  at  less  expense  and  with  better  results  than 
if  the  whole  distance  were  planted  at  once  with  trees  of 
larger  size. 

REQUIREMENTS  OF  A  PERFECT  HEDGE. 

The  first  requirement  of  a  perfect  hedge  either  for  beauty 
or  for  a  perfect  screen  is  numerous  main  branches  close  to 
the  ground,  and  at  transplanting,  unless  the  plants  have 
been  specially  prepared  in  the  nursery,  they  should  be  cut 


0%  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

back  severely  to  encourage  this  condition  of  growth.  It  is 
not  often  possible  Lo  obtain  hemlocks  and  spruces  in  proper 
condition  for  a  perfect  hedge,  they  not  having  been  cut 
down  while  small,  and  they  cannot  be  so  severely  pruned  as 
can  the  deciduous  trees;  but  the  honey-locust,  Japanese 
quince,  buckthorn,  privet,  etc.,  can  and  should  be  cut  down 
to  within  six  inches  of  the  ground  at  planting,  even  if  of 
large  size,  and  be  kept  low  until  sufficient  strong  lateral 
branches  are  developed  to  insure  a  close  and  healthy  growth 
near  to  the  ground.  This  may  seem  like  severe  treatment, 
but,  as  all  trees  or  shrubs  when  planted  closely  tend  to  grow 
only  at  the  top,  in  no  other  way  can  a  perfect  hedge  be 
made  that  will  grow  a  long  time  without  becoming  broken 
and  irregular  from  dying  of  the  branches.  After  the 
necessary  lateral  growth  has  been  obtained  the  top  should 
be  cut  a  little  higher  each  year  until  the  proper  height  has 
been  reached.  The  point  at  which  to  cut  and  the  results 
of  this  pruning  is  illustrated  in  Figs.  42  and  43,  the  dotted 


FIG.  42.  FIG.  43. 

FIG.  42. — ILLUSTRATES  CUTTING  BACK  OF  A  HEDGE. 
FIG.  43. — ILLUSTRATES  RESULTS  OF  CUTTING  A  HEDGE. 

line  a  showing  the  point  of  first  pruning.  The  effect  of 
this  pruning  is  shown  in  the  three  trees  at  the  right;  the 
line  a'  showing  the  second  pruning. 


SHRUBS,   HEDGES,  AND   HAEDY   CLIMBERS. 


83 


FORM    OF    HEDGES. 


Of  the  many  forms  in  which  hedges  are  pruned,  a  satis- 
factory and  permanent  growth  will  only  be  obtained  by  the 
triangular  or  conical  shape,  Figs.  44  and  45.  When  the 


FIG.  44.  FIG.  45.  FIG.  46. 

FIGS.  44,  45. — CORRECT  FORM  OF  HEDGES. 
FIG.  46. — INCORRECT  FORM  OF  HEDGER. 

sides  are  pruned  perpendicularly,  as  in  Fig.  46,  there  can 
be  but  little  growth  except  at  the  top,  as  at  «;  while  in  the 
conical  or  triangular  form  the  tendency  will  be  to  grow 
upward  from  all  points  along  the  sides,  as  in  the  above 
figures,  the  sides  being  thus  kept  well  covered  wjj 
and  new  growth.  /^?^  OF  TR> 

UNIVERSITY  1 


PRUNING   HEDGES. 


CALIF  O* 


As  in  pruning  specimen  shrubs,  continual  shearing  at 
the  ends  will  cause  a  more  or  less  close,  defective,  and 
unhealthy  growth,  and  here  and  there  over  the  hedge  weak 


FIG.  47.— WHERE  CUT  SHOULD  BE  MADE  IN  PRUNING. 

branches  should  be  removed  at  considerable  distance  toward 
the  inside,  which,  as  shown  in  Fig.  47,  «,  will  result  in  new 


84  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

shoots  from  near  the  centre  of  growth  and  thus  the  vigor  of 
the  plant  will  be  renewed.  A  hedge  pruned  in  this  way 
may  not  present  quite  so  solid  an  outline,  but  it  has  a  more 
graceful  appearance,  and  will  keep  in  a  healthy  condition 
much  longer  than  when  pruned  only  at  the  ends  of  the 
branches. 

TIME    FOR    PRUNING    HEDGES. 

If  it  is  desired  to  check  the  growth,  as  when  the  hedge 
has  reached  the  desired  height,  the  pruning  should  be  done 
in  June  or  July;  but  if  more  growth  is  desired,  i.e.,  while 
the  hedge  is  in  the  formative  stage  and  to  produce  a  lateral 
growth,  the  spring,  just  before  growth  begins,  is  the  best 
time  for  pruning. 

IMPLEMENTS    FOR    PRUNING. 

For  the  preliminary  pruning  of  cutting  out  branches  from 
the  inside  the  common  hand  pruning-shears  and  a  large 
pruning-knife  are  all  that  is  needed,  but  for  giving  per- 
manent finished  outline  the  long  hedge-shears  are  indispen- 
sable. To  obtain  a  true  outline,  strong  twine  stretched 
very  taut  and  held  in  place  by  stakes  is  the  simplest  and 
most  satisfactory  method.  If  the  surface  of  the  ground  on 
which  the  hedge  is  grown  is  curved,  the  top  line  of  the 
hedge  should  take  the  same  curve,  thus  making  it  the  same 
height  throughout  its  length. 

A   MIXED   HEDGE. 

Hedges  of  flowering  shrubs,  where  the  flowers  are  the 
most  desirable  feature,  should  be  pruned  as  directed  for 
other  flowering  shrubs,  but  the  close  solid  hedge  cannot  be 
obtained  by  this  method  of  pruning. 


SHRUBS,    HEDGES,   AND    HARDY    CLIMBERS.  85 


ADAPTABILITY    OF    SOIL   AND    LOCALITY. 

As  with  trees  and  shrubs  under  all  other  conditions,  the 
different  varieties  used  for  hedges  will  only  succeed  under 
proper  conditions  of  soil  and  exposure.  Thus  the  hemlock 
will  only  succeed  when  planted  in  a  moist  cool  soil,  in  a 
cool  yet  somewhat  sheltered  location.  The  arbor-vitaes  and 
all  other  evergreens  are  also  often  seriously  injured  if 
planted  where  exposed  to  extremely  hot  sun,  heavy  winds, 
or  where  passers-by  will  come  in  contact  with  them  when 
frozen.  The  pines  and  spruces  will  grow  well  in  light  laud. 

Most  of  the  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs  used  for  hedges 
succeed  better  in  exposed  places  than  the  evergreens  and 
under  more  varied  conditions,  but  each  must  have  a  suit- 
able soil  to  grow  to  the  greatest  perfection.  Almost  any 
soil  may  be  so  changed  at  little  expense  as  to  be  adapted  to 
the  needs  of  most  kinds  of  hedge-plants.  If  the  soil  is  too 
light,  liberal  dressings  of  stable  manure  or  other  organic 
matter  will  enable  it  to  retain  moisture  sufficient  for  a  good 
growth.  If  very  heavy,  sand  or  gravel  worked  into  the 
soil  will  make  it  more  light  and  porous.  If  very  wet, 
thorough  drainage  will  remedy  this  defect. 

The  annual  dressing  of  manure  or  fertilizer  recommended 
for  trees  and  shrubs  should  be  put  about  the  trunk  of  each 
plant  before  the  ground  freezes,  and  all  leaves  and  rubbish 
that  will  attract  mice  or  other  vermin  be  removed  before 
the  ground  is  covered  with  snow.  No  weeds  or  seedling 
trees  or  shrubs  should  be  allowed  to  get  a  foothold  about 
the  hedge,  and  in  very  much  exposed  places  a  protection  of 
pine  boughs  daring  the  winter  will  be  found  very  beneficial 
until  the  plants  have  become  fully  established. 


86  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING, 

Hardy  Climbing  Shrubs.* 

The  part  that  hardy  climbers  play  in  the  landscape  or 
ornamental  art  is  often  very  important.  As  a  summer 
covering  for  verandas  and  arbors  nothing  possesses  so  much 
natural  beauty.  They  supply  the  beautiful  green  so  pleas- 
ant to  the  eye,  and  by  constant  evaporation  of  moisture  from 
their  leaves  produce  a  cool  shade  that  no  artificial  material 
can  supply.  Some  of  them  possess  most  beautifully  cut  or 
shaded  foliage,  while  others  produce  most  beautiful  flowers, 
and  when  once  planted  they  grow  on  for  many  years  with  but 
little  care.  Some  of  them,  like  the  wistaria,  Aristolochia, 
Actinidia,  bittersweet,  etc.,  will  twine  about  large  pillars 
or  other  supports,  some  will  support  themselves  to  brick  or 
stone  walls  by  their  suckers,  while  many,  like  the  clematis, 
etc.,  require  the  support  of  the  trellis,  the  single  wire,  or 
the  wire  netting. 

If  grown  too  abundantly  or  trained  too  closely  to  the 
building,  vines  often  render  the  dwelling  damp  and  un- 
healthy and  cause  rapid  decay  of  the  woodwork. 

As  to  cultivation,  they  require  the  same  care  and  fertility 
of  soil  as  recommended  for  upright  shrubs.  Fig.  48  shows 
a  vine-covered  cottage  in  June,  Fig.  49  the  same  in  April. 

PRUNING    OF   CLIMBERS. 

In  addition  to  the  pruning  required  to  keep  climbing 
vines  within  proper  limits,  which  can  be  largely  done  by 
pinching  and  light  clipping  during  the  summer,  they 
require  in  some  cases  the  cutting  back  of  the  old  wood  of 
the  laterals  in  order  to  produce  fresh  clean  shoots  and 

*  See  description  of  hardy  climbing  shrubs  on  page  213. 


b 

-  a 


SHRUBS,  HEDGES,  AND   HARDY    CLIMBERS.  87 

foliage,  and  in  other  cases  the  heading  in  of  the  young  wooi 
to  encourage  development  of  the  blossom-buds.  In  a  few 
cases  winter  protection  should  be  provided  by  tying  straw 
around  them  or  covering  them  with  matting.  Any  cover- 
ing of  this  kind,  however,  unless  very  neatly  done  detracts 
from  the  appearance  of  a  veranda  or  arbor  and  should  be 
avoided  if  possible. 

Hardy  Herbaceous  Plants.* 

No  class  of  plants  affords  more  beauty  and  pleasure  for  so 
little  expenditure  of  labor  and  money  as  the  hardy  her- 
baceous plants.  They  are  especially  adapted  to  small 
places,  and  with  a  background  of  low  trees  or  shrubs  some 
very  beautiful  pictures  can  be  formed.  As  with  shrubs 
and  trees,  some  kinds  require  special  conditions  of  soil  to  be 
grown  successfully,  while  others  succeed  on  a  great  variety 
of  soils.  Most  of  them  will  grow  a  long  time  in  one  place 
without  renewal  of  soil,  but  some  of  them  need  dividing 
and  transplanting  every  three  or  four  years  to  insure  the 
most  vigorous  growth  and  the  best  flowers. 

They  may  be  arranged  in  groups  of  the  same  kind,  or  in 
mixed  groups,  as  may  be  desired,  with  good  effect;  but  on 
large  places  generous  groups  of  one  kind  with  striking 
characteristics  will  be  the  most  satisfactory,  while  on  small 
places  the  mixed  arrangement  may,  perhaps,  give  the  most 
pleasure. 

Tender  Foliage  or  Flowering  Plants,  f 

For  many  years  past  it  has  been  the  fashion  to  grow, 
more  or  less  largely,  brilliantly  colored  foliage  or  flowering 

*  See  list  of  hardy  herbaceous  plants  on  page  222. 
f  See  list  of  bedding- plants  on  page  242. 


88  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

plants  in  large  masses;  and  while  the  pleasure  obtained  by 
the  growth  and  study  of  these  plants  is  often  very  great, 
the  effect  produced  is  sometimes  not  quite  in  keeping  with 
the  quiet  beauty  of  the  refined  home.  It  often  partakes 
more  of  the  nature  of  "  loud  dress,"  much  avoided  by  all 
people  of  good  taste.  Gaudy  pattern-beds  covering  large 
areas  standing  out  conspicuously  on  the  lawn  with  nothing 
to  cause  a  blending  of  color  cannot  be  considered  in  good 
taste,  but  if  placed  so  that  more  moderate  colors  grouped 
near  may  tone  down  their  intensity  they  may  not  be  ob- 
jectionable. 

Small  groups  of  the  more  brilliantly  colored  foliage-plants 
or  of  those  with  beautiful  flowers  placed  in  retired  nooks 
with  a  good  background,  along  the  borders  of  walks,  or 
close  up  to  the  veranda  with  a  good  extent  of  lawn  often 
add  brightness  to  a  scene  that  can  be  produced  in  no  other 
way.  These  bedding-plants,  well  started  under  glass,  pro- 
duce effect  during  the  entire  season  which  cannot  be 
obtained  from  perennial  plants  or  shrubs.  They  often  show 
color  or  begin  to  bloom  soon  after  setting  out  and  continue 
until  cut  off  by  frost. 

They  are  comparatively  inexpensive  if  purchased  from 
the  commercial  grower,  or  many  of  them  are  easily  and 
cheaply  grown  with  only  the  facilities  of  a  small  hotbed  or 
a  few  sunny  windows. 

Intricate  figures  and  designs  often  seen  in  public  grounds 
and  large  estates  should  not  be  attempted  on  small  places, 
for,  besides  being  unsuited  to  such  limited  areas,  they  will 
detract  from  other  features  whatever  of  beauty  they  may 
possess. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

WALKS   AND  DRIVES. 

GOOD,  dry,  and  smooth  walks  and  drives  are  a  necessity 
for  comfortable  getting  about  on  either  the  home  or  public 
grounds,  but  they  can  in  themselves  add  nothing  to  the 
naturalness  or  beauty  of  any  place.  One  of  the  first  points 
for  consideration,  after  the  house  and  outbuildings  have 
been  located  and  built,  is  how  to  get  to  and  from  them,  or, 
in  other  words,  where  shall  the  necessary  walks  and  drives 
be  located. 

If  we  could  always  walk  or  drive  on  the  velvety  grass  of 
a  good  lawn  without  getting  our  feet  wet  or  killing  the 
grass,  gravelled  or  concrete  walks  or  drives  would  not  be  a 
necessity,  we  should  save  much  expense,  and  the  beauty  of 
our  grounds  would  be  greatly  increased;  but  we  can  do 
neither  of  these,  and  walks  and  drives  are  therefore,  from 
this  point  of  view,  a  necessity. 

A  properly  located  walk  or  drive,  however,  may  be  made 
an  attractive  feature,  as  it  invites  us  by  its  smoothness  and 
dryness  to  walk  or  drive  over  it  to  the  house,  or  from  the 
house  to  our  daily  toil  or  pleasure.  It  adds  an  air  of 
comfort  and  hospitality  to  the  home  that  without  it  would 
seem  cold  and  inhospitable. 

Walks  and  drives  in  themselves  add  no  beauty  to  grounds 
devoted  to  the  growth  of  choice  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants, 

89 


90  LANDSCAPE  GAKDENIHG. 

and,  as  they  are  unnatural  features  of  the  landscape  art, 
only  such  should  be  made  as  are  actually  required  by  those 
who  frequent  the  grounds.  Besides,  a  good  walk  or  drive 
is  expensive  to  construct,  and  requires  constant  attention 
as  to  border  and  surface  to  keep  in  good  condition. 

Location  of  Walks  and  Drives. 

The  location  of  walks  and  drives  should  be  where  they 
will  be  most  convenient,  and  as  nearly  as  possible  give  the 
shortest  distance  between  the  points  to  be  traversed,  and 
yet,  unless  the  distance  is  very  short,  the  straight  line 
should  be  avoided. 

Graceful  curves,  taking  one  from  place  to  place  about 
one's  grounds,  give  the  idea  of  quiet  and  leisure  that  is 
conducive  to  the  study  of  beautiful  objects  about  us;  and 
by  a  little  variety  of  material  and  skill  in  the  arrangement 
of  it  in  ornamenting  the  borders  of  walks,  thus  obliging  us 
to  move  out  of  the  straight  line  to  reach  a  certain  point, 
we  may  not  be  conscious  of  the  fact  that  the  curved  walk 
is  any  longer  than  a  straight  one  would  be,  and  much 
beauty  is  gained.  This  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  32;  were  it 
not  for  the  groups  of  shrubbery  along  the  border  there 
would  be  a  feeling  of  restraint  at  going  over  so  much  dis- 
tance to  reach  a  point  directly  ahead,  but  we  are  attracted 
in  part  by  their  beauty  to  pass  among  them,  and,  being 
between  us  and  the  objective  point,  the  feeling  of  restraint 
disappears. 

There  should  always  be  a  walk  leading  more  or  less 
directly  to  the  main  entrance  of  the  house;  and  where  a 
drive  must  also  be  provided  to  the  front  door  and  to  reach 
the  stable,  if  space  is  limited,  the  two  may  be  combined 


WALKS   AND   DRIVES. 


91 


for  more  or  less  of  the  distance  by  making  that  part  along 
the  side  of  the  drive  intended  for  the  footpath  (see  Fig. 
50)  with  a  little  finer  gravel  or  by  paving  or  concreting  it. 


FIG.  50.  FIG.  51. 

FIG   50. — COMBINED  WALK  AND  DRIVE. 
FIG.  51.— SEMICIRCULAR  WALK  OR  DRIVE. 

Where  the  grounds  are  smalt  and  a  "turn  around"  is 
needed,  this  plan  is  often  followed,  thus  preserving  more 
of  the  lawn  for  ornamentation  and  reducing  the  cost  of 
construction  and  care. 

Direction  of  Walks  and  Drives. 

The  direction  of  the  walk  leading  from  the  house  to  the 
street  should  conform  to  the  needs  of  the  occupants. 
Thus,  if  the  direction  of  travel  is  equally  to  the  right  and 
left  from  the  street  entrance,  the  walk  should  run  nearly  in 
a  direct  line  from  the  main  entrance  of  the  house  to  the 
street,  as  in  the  dotted  line  Fig.  51,  or  in  a  semicircular 
direction,  as  in  the  same  figure;  but  if  the  direction  of 
travel  is  largely  to  the  right  or  left,  then  the  drive  or  walk 
can  be  directed  to  the  right  or  left  at  the  entrance,  as 
desired. 

Width  of  Walks  and  Drives. 

The  width  of  the  walks  and  drives  must  vary  with  the 
amount  of  usage.  If  there  is  much  passing  to  and  from 


92  LAKDSCAPE  GARDENING. 

the  house,  the  walk  may  be  made  from  5  to  6  feet  wide,  so 
that  two  or  three  persons  may  walk  abreast  or  pass  each 
other  readily;  bat  if  two  persons  would  not  be  likely  to 
meet  frequently,  a  width  of  from  3  to  5  feet  would  be  suffi- 
cient. For  a  drive  where  only  one  team  would  pass  over 
the  road  at  a  time  8  to  10  feet  is  sufficient  width;  but  if 
two  teams  must  frequently  pass  over  it  at  once,  15  to  18 
feet  will  be  none  too  great  a  width.  The  walks  and 
drives,  however,  ought  not  to  be  wider  than  are  absolutely 
needed,  for  the  wider  they  are  the  more  they  detract  from 
the  ornamental  features  of  the  place  and  the  greater  will 
be  the  cost  of  construction  and  maintenance. 

Obtaining  the  Curves. 

Too  much  care  cannot  be  exercised  in  laying  out  and 
forming  the  curves  of  walks  and  drives,  for  when  completed 
with  a  proper  foundation  it  is  difficult  to  make  a  change 
of  location  or  direction  except  at  large  expense. 

Most  inexperienced  persons  find  some  difficulty  in  obtain- 
ing graceful  and  proper  curves,  but  to  the  professional 
landscape-gardner  it  is  a  simple  matter. 

The  point  of  start  and  termination  must  be  decided  upon 
and  also  the  prominent  features  that  may  be  brought  to 
view  along  its  course.  The  walk  should  be  made  to  pass  if 
possible  where  pleasing  features  will  be  seen,  and  not  where 
those  of  an  unpleasant  character  will  be  brought  to  view. 

Many  means  are  employed  to  obtain  the  desired  curve. 
If  an  engineer  is  employed,  this  is  quickly  and  very  accu- 
rately done  with  surveying-instruments;  but  for  all  ordinary 
work  it  can  be  done  with  sufficient  accuracy  by  the  eye, 
setting  up  small  stakes  at  regular  intervals,  as  in  Fig.  52, 


WALKS    AND    DRIVES. 


93 


and  sighting  along  until  the  line  is  covered  (the  more  abrupt 
the  curve  the  closer  the  stakes  must  be  set),  then  viewing 
the  stakes  backward  and  forward  once  or  twice,  changing 
here  and  there  until  a  satisfactory  curve  is  obtained.  The 
desired  width  at  all  points  is  then  obtained  by  measuring 
the  same  distance  from  each  of  the  stakes  to  the  opposite 
side  of  the  walk.  On  large  grounds  a  carriage  driven 
rapidly  and  skilfully  over  the  surface  will  make  very 


FIG.  52.— METHOD  OF  OBTAINING  CURVE. 

regular  and  graceful  curves.  The  bicycle  also  may  be 
brought  into  use  for  this  work,  or  a  stiff  rope  or  rubber 
hose  laid  on  the  ground  and  moved  until  the  desired  curve 
is  obtained,  the  mark  to  be  made  by  pressing  it  into  the 
soft  soil  with  the  feet,  or  if  in  grass  the  curve  made  in  the 
above  way  may  be  located  by  setting  up  small  stakes  at  fre- 
quent intervals  along  the  line  of  rope  or  hose.  After  the 
curve  is  laid  out  permanent  stakes  should  always  be  set 
firmly  enough  so  that  they  may  not  be  moved  until  the 
work  of  grading,  filling,  trimming,  and  smoothing  off  is 
completed. 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


Construction  of  Drives  and  Walks. 

A  good  walk  or  drive  cannot  be  made  on  a  poor  founda- 
tion, any  more  than  a  bridge  or  a  house.  A  foundation 
must  be  provided  that  will  not  allow  of  settling  unevenly 
by  the  action  of  frost.  Standing  water  under  the  walk  will 
also  cause  uneven  settling,  and  one  of  the  first  steps  to  take 
in  providing  for  the  foundation  is  the  removal  of  any 
surplus  water.  If  not  naturally  underdrained,  a  tile  or 
stone  drain  should  be  laid  not  less  than  3J  feet  below 
the  surface,  and  if  the  land  is  very  wet  and  the  walk  wide 
a  line  of  tile  on  each  side,  Fig.  53,  may  be  necessary.  On 


FIG.  53. — SECTION  OF  WALK  on  DRIVE  SHOWING  LOCATION  OF 

TILE. 

a  side  hill  a  deep-laid  drain  on  the  upper  side,  Fig.  54,  a 
little  distance  from  the  walk  will  often  be  more  effective 
than  if  laid  directly  under  it.  If  the  whole  lawn  is  well 


FIG.  54. — SECTION  OF  WALK  OR  DRIVE  ON  SIDE  HILL. 

underdrained,  no  other  drainage  need  be  provided  except 
that  obtained  in  construction. 

To  provide  a  walk  that  shall  be  dry  at  all  times  and 
especially  after  very  heavy  rains,  the  material  of  which  it 


WALKS   AND    DKIVES.  95 

is  made  should  be  of  a  very  porous  character.  This  condi- 
tion is  best  obtained  by  excavating  the  whole  space  to  be 
covered  from  one  to  two  feet  deep  and  filling  in  first  with 
boulders  and  rocks,  then  with  smaller  stones  and  coarse 
gravel,  and  finally  with  gravel  from  which  most  of  the  sand 
or  loam  has  been  screened. 

The  rocks  and  boulders  should  be  first  packed  as  closely 
as  possible,  then  the  small  stones  filled  in  about  them,  and 
then  the  coarse  gravel  packed  and  tamped  down  thoroughly. 
If  a  heavy  roller  is  obtainable  and  can  be  used  at  the  differ- 
ent stages  of  construction,  this  will  be  the  best  means  of 
compacting  each  layer,  but  if  not,  a  heavy  iron  or  wood 
tamper,  used  skilfully,  will  do  good  work. 

A  walk  constructed  as  above  described  will  remain  firm 
and  dry  for  a  great  many  years,  and  will  require  little  labor 
to  keep  it  in  a  neat  condition  and  free  from  weels.  The 
surface  of  such  a  walk  may  be  made  nearly  flat,  while  if 
good  material  is  not  available  and  a  good  foundation  is  not 
provided  it  mast  be  made  crowning  in  the  middle,  and  the 
poorer  the  material  the  more  crowning  it  must  be  and  then 
not  be  wholly  satisfactory.  The  materials  of  which  the 
walk  is  constructed  should  not  be  filled  above  the  level  of 
the  lawn  on  a  sloping  surface  unless  found  necessary,  as  the 
surface-water  during  heavy  showers  would  accumulate, 
washing  out  the  gravel.  Should  snch  a  form  be  necessary, 
this  danger  should  be  provided  against  by  making  a  gutter 
along  the  upper  side  of  the  walk,  with  catch-basins  into 
drain  tile  or  a  tile  culvert  to  carry  the  water  under  the 
walk.  This  gutter  may  be  made  as  a  part  of  the  walk  with 
paving-stones  or  asphalt,  Fig.  54,  or  a  very  good  one  can 
often  be  made  in  the  turf  without  disfiguring  the  lawn  (see 
Fig.  53). 


96  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

Care  should  be  taken  that  no  basins  be  formed  by  the 
walks  or  drives  as  they  pass  through  the  valleys  or  turn 
along  the  face  of  a  slope,  and  if  such  become  a  necessity 
culverts  of  stone  or  tile  should  be  put  under  them  so  that 
the  water  may  pass  to  the  other  side  before  there  is  much 
accumulation. 

The  edges  of  the  walks  and  drives  will  need  more  or  less 
attention  at  all  times  to  keep  the  grass  from  growing  in  and 
forming  irregular  borders,  and  trimming  is  best  done  with 
the  "  edging  knife."  The  surface  also  will  need  an  occa- 
sional raking  or  smoothing  over,  and  once  in  two  or  three 
years  a  dressing  of  screened  fine  gravel  or  sand  will  greatly 
improve  the  surface  and  keep  it  filled  up  to  the  level  of  the 
lawn. 

If  the  workmen  employed  cannot  cut  the  edges  to  true 
curves  by  the  eye,  the  garden-line  should  be  stretched  and 
stakes  set  at  frequent  intervals  along  the  curve  until  a 
complete  and  perfect  curve  is  outlined. 

All  weeds  should  be  removed  before  they  become  so  fully 
rooted  as  to  require  the  hoe  or  hook  to  remove  them. 

On  the  drives  all  loose  stones  or  those  projecting  above 
the  surface  should  be  removed  at  once,  for,  besides  the 
discomfort  they  cause  the  traveller,  they  are  seriously 
injurious  to  botli  the  carriage  and  the  road. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

RENOVATING   AND   IMPROVING  OLD  HOMES. 

THE  established  home  is  often  far  more  difficult  to  treat 
than  where  the  land  is  clear  and  new  material  only  is  to  be 
used.  It  often  is  also  the  case  that  there  are  objectionable 
features  that  must  be  removed  before  anything  like  real 
beauty  can  be  evolved  ;  as,  for  example:  1st.  Trees,  shrubs, 
and  vines  may  be  so  closely  planted  and  so  entangled  that 
none  of  them  can  ever  be  made  beautiful  objects.  This  is 
shown  to  some  extent  in  Fig.  55.  2d.  There  may  be  un- 
natural embankments,  slopes,  terraces,  or  basins.  3d. 
Bank  walls,  unsightly  fences,  and  improperly  located  build- 
ings. 4th.  Unnaturally  located  and  unnecessary  walks 
and  drives. 

In  other  cases  much  valuable  material  may  be  found  in 
a  condition  that,  with  a  little  proper  care,  may  be  easily 
improved  so  as  to  become  objects  of  great  beauty  in  a  much 
shorter  time  than  if  new  trees  or  shrubs  were  planted. 

When  a  place  is  taken  that  has  for  a  long  time  been 
under  neglect  or  improper  care,  the  walks  overgrown  and 
trees  and  shrubs  more  or  less  a  tangled  mass,  there  seems 
to  1  e  but  one  of  two  things  to  do,  i.e.,  to  either  cut  down 
everything  on  the  place,  clear  up  and  grade  the  land,  and 

begin  as  in  a  new  place,  or  to  thin  out  some  of  the  least 

97 


98  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

desirable  and  trim  up  those  of  value  and  plant  other  desir- 
able trees  and  shrubs  in  proper  relation  to  each  other  among 
those  standing  (removing,  of  course,  such  as  will  absolutely 
prevent  the  growth  of  the  new  ones),  give  them  careful 
fertilization,  and  then  remove  the  old  trees  as  soon  as  the 
new  ones  have  made  growth  enough  to  serve  the  desired 
purpose  of  ornamentation. 

Preserving  and  Improving  Deciduous  Trees. 

In  some  cases  deciduous  trees  may  be  found  that  by 
severely  heading  in,  as  in  Fig.  17,  at  the  dotted  lines  a,  in 
a  few  years  will  become  symmetrical  and  well-formed  trees, 
as  in  Fig.  18.  Such  trees  as  the  elm,  oak,  maple,  and  many 
others  are  very  easily  renewed  in  this  way,  but  the  ever- 
greens when  once  they  have  lost  their  lower  branches  can 
never  be  renovated  without  great  expense  and  loss  of  time. 

Renewing  Shrubs  and  Hedges. 

Overgrown  shrubs  may  be  more  easily  renewed  than  large 
trees,  as  they  will  stand  more  severe  pruning.  If  very 
much  overgrown  and  in  clumps,  a  part  of  the  main  clump 


FIG.  56.  FIG.  57.  FIG.  58. 

FIGS.  56,  57,  58.— A  SHRUB  DIVIDED  AND  PRUNED  FOR 
TRANSPLANTING. 

may  be  dug  up  and  the  remainder  severely  headed  back, 
when  a  wholly  new  top  will  be  formed.  This  is  illustrated 
in  Figs.  56  and  57.  If  the  soil  be  then  enriched  and  a 


RENOVATING   AND    IMPROVING   OLD    HOMES.  99 

little  pinching  in  of  the  strong-growing  branches  that  tend 
to  outgrow  the  others,  bushes  of  large  size  may  be  made  in 
a  very  short  time  to  take  perfect  form,  and  often  with  far 
less  labor  and  expense  than  if  young  shrubs  were  planted. 
After  being  well  established,  the  pruning  given  should  be 
in  the  direction  of  the  dotted  line  a,  Fig.  58. 

Hedges  like  the  honey-locust,  Osage  orange,  buckthorn, 
privet,  and  Japan  quince,  which  have  long  been  neglected, 
may  often  be  renovated  by  a  little  heroic  treatment.  Fig.  58 
is  a  sectional  view  illustrating  the  condition  in  which  neg- 
lected hedges  often  are  found.  By  cutting  this  hedge  at 
the  dotted  line,  and  then  as  the  young  shoots  grow  unevenly 
pinching  off  the  ends  of  the  most  vigorous,  a  uniform  height 
and  a  low-branching  condition  may  be  soon  attained,  with- 
out which  no  hedge  is  either  ornamental  or  useful. 

A  hedge  is  under  some  conditions  an  ornamental  feature 
of  a  landscape  view  and  often  serves  as  a  screen  from  some 
unsightly  object;  but  generally  there  is  little  of  the  orna- 
mental or  useful  about  it.  Where  growing  on  old  places 
in  nine  cases  out  of  ten  it  will  be  found  that  more  pleasing 
effects  may  be  obtained  by  the  removal  of  such  a  hedge  and 
grass  and  a  few  naturally  formed  trees  and  shrubs  planted 
about  the  place  occupied  by  it  than  by  trying  to  renew  its 
growth.  Evergreen  hedges,  when  not  too  large,  may  be 
renewed  by  the  heroic  treatment,  but  it  takes  several  years 
after  heading  in  for  them  to  become  again  covered  with 
foliage  so  as  to  be  ornamental. 

For  full  description  and  care  of  hedges  see  Chapter  V. 

Hardy  Herbaceous  Plants. 

On  many  an  old  place  may  be  found  more  or  less  of  those 
most  interesting  and  desirable  hardy  herbaceous  plants,  like 


100  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

peonies,  phloxes,  larkspur,  iris,  etc.,  that  may  be  utilized 
in  the  decoration  of  a  home.  Generally  they  are  root- 
hound  among  grass  and  shrubs,  and  can  never  be  made 
of  any  value  unless  taken  up  and  transplanted  to  good, 
clean,  well-enriched  soil.  In  doing  this  only  the  strong 
young  roots  should  be  used,  and  all  grass  and  weeds  should 
be  carefully  separated  from  them. 

The  fall  is  a  good  time  for  this  transplanting,  though  it 
can  be  done  successfully  in  the  spring  before  much  growth 
has  taken  place.  If  the  land  in  which  they  are  to  be  trans- 
planted is  not  in  a  proper  condition,  the  plants  may  be  put 
in  good  garden-soil  for  a  year  or  two,  where  they  will  be 
greatly  improved  and  be  ready  for  removal  when  a,  proper 
soil-bed  is  ready  for  them. 

If  the  owner  of  a  newly  purchased  old  place  is  not 
familiar  with  the  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants  on  the  grounds 
to  be  renovated,  he  should  consult  some  one  who  can  tell 
him  of  the  value  of  each,  that  only  those  of  value  be  saved. 

Renovating  the  Lawn. 

The  lawn  or  the  grass  in  and  about  the  grounds  of  most 
old  places  has  generally  been  so  long  neglected  that  weeds 
and  wild  grasses  have  taken  possession  and  driven  out  the 
finer  kinds  that  give  the  green  velvety  carpet,  without 
which  any  place,  no  matter  how  lavishly  planned  or  grandly 
built,  looks  unfinished.  The  first  thing  to  do  with  the  old 
lawn,  if  under  such  conditions  that  the  land  can  be  ploughed 
or  otherwise  worked  deeply,  is  to  turn  the  sod  under, 
manure  heavily,  cultivate  thoroughly  for  one  or  two  years 
nntil  the  wild  grasses  and  weeds  are  subdued,  and  then 
reseed  in  August  or  April  with  1  to  2  bu.  June-grass,  1  to 


BEXOVAT1NG   AXD   IMPHOVIXG    OLD   HUMES.  101 

2  bu.  red-top,  and  8  Ibs.  of  white  clover  per  acre.*  But  it 
more  often  is  the  case  that  there  are  numerous  trees  and 
other  objects  on  an  old  place  that  prevent  this  thorough 
treatment,  and  the  cultivation  of  the  land  to  the  very  door- 
steps, for  even  one  or  two  years,  is  not  a  very  pleasant  thing 
to  contemplate;  therefore  some  other  method  of  renovation 
must  be  resorted  to.  Under  these  conditions  the  surface 
must  be  graded  by  shaving  off  the  projections  as  far  as 
possible,  raising  up  the  turf  and  filling  up  under  it  where 
there  are  depressions,  or  grading  over  the  uneven  surface 
with  good  soil,  so  as  to  present  an  even  and  flowing  outline. 
Then  grass-seed  of  the  same  kind  and  at  the  same  rate 
per  acre  as  for  the  new  lawn,  i.e.,  2  bu.  red-top,  2  bu. 
June-grass,  and  8  Ibs.  of  white  clover  (the  poorer  the  soil 
the  more  seed  should  be  used),  should  be  sown,  raked  in 
with  a  liberal  dressing  of  fine  manure,  or  fertilizer  made  as 
follows:  1500  Ibs.  of  fine-ground  bone,  300  Ibs.  of  muriate 
of  potash,  and  200  Ibs.  of  nitrate  of  soda  or  sulphate  of 
ammonia,  per  acre.  Treated  in  this  way,  if  the  grass  is 
frequently  cut  during  the  summer,  a  good  lawn  may  be 
obtained  in  two  or  three  years. 

For  new  seeding  the  potash  and  nitrate  of  soda  should  be 
thoroughly  worked  in  with  the  soil  some  time  before  the 
seed  is  sown. 

The  specially  prepared  lawn-dressings  are  equally  good 
in  place  of  the  above  fertilizers,  but  more  expensive. 

Smoothing  Abrupt  Slopes  and  Embankments. 

As  far  as  possible  all  abrupt  slopes  and  embankments 
should  be  graded  down  into  well-rounded  and  graceful  out- 

*  See  Chapter  III  ou  Lawns. 


102 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


lines.  Such  grades  are  much  more  beautiful  than  abrupt 
terraces  or  slopes,  more  easily  cared  for,  and  there  is  no 
danger  from  injury  by  the  turf  sliding  down  or  being 
broken  down  by  stepping  upon  it  in  the  spring  as  the  frost 
is  working  out  of  the  ground. 

It  is  often  possible  to  remove  unsightly  bank  walls 
and  grade  over  the  place  with  graceful  rounded  oat- 
lines  that  are  more  natural  and  beautiful,  and  wherever 
possible  this  should  be  done.  By  excavating  in  front 
of  the  bank  wall,  as  in  Fig.  59,  a  space  may  be  obtained 


FIG.  59.— COVERING  UP  BANK  WALL. 


in  which  to  cover  up  the  stones  if  they  are  needed  for 
no  other  purpose,  when  the  surface  may  be  sloped  off  at 
line  BB. 

In  some  cases,  however,  where  the  house  is  located  on  a 
very  steep  slope  and  very  near  the  street,  a  retain  ing- wall 
becomes  a  necessity,  under  which  condition  the  only  way 
that  the  unnaturalness  of  the  surface  can  be  hidden  is  by 
covering  the  wall  with  climbing  vines  like  the  Japanese 
woodbine  (Ampelopsis  Vietchii),  Fig.  118,  page  214,  or  by 


RENOVATING   AND   IMPROVING   OLD   HOMES.  103 

planting  a  row  or  border  of  shrubs  or  small  evergreen  trees 
in  front  of  the  wall. 

Deep  ditches  and  basins  that  cannot  be  easily  graded  over 
with  material  at  hand  ofton  serve  as  a  place  for  dumping 
rocks  and  other  materials  that  may  be  gathered  about  the 
place  or  along  the  roadside,  thus  working  great  improve- 
ment in  two  directions.  The  small  stones  also  will  serve  as 
the  best  kind  of  foundation  for  the  walks  and  drives,  while 
the  good  soil  removed  from  the  walk  or  road-bed  will  serve 
for  grading  or  dressing  over  the  uneven  surfaces  in  other 
parts  of  the  grounds  or  by  the  roadside. 

Removal  of  Fences. 

All  fences  are  objectionable  in  view  of  their  unnatural 
ness,  lack  of  beauty,  the  expense  of  building  and  keeping 
in  repair,  and  wherever  they  can  be  dispensed  with  it  is 
economy  to  remove  them. 

Except  in  the  village  lot,  where  footpaths  are  likely  to 
be  formed  by  constant  crossing,  there  is  no  good  reason  why 


wiimm, 

FIG.  60.— TURFING  AGAINST  BANK  WALL. 

fences  may  not  be  wholly  dispensed  with.  It  is  sometimes 
the  case  in  the  country  that  cattle  must  be  driven  along 
the  roadway  every  day  to  and  from  pasture,  when  a  fence 
may  be  needed,  but  where  there  is  only  small  chance  of 
injury  it  is  better  to  suffer  the  lesser  of  two  evils.  A  stone 


104  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

wall  may  often  be  covered  from  view  by  a  bank  of  soil 
against  it,  as  in  Fig.  60. 

Whatever  fence  is  maintained  should  be  as  simple  and 
inconspicuous  as  possible. 

Improperly  Located  Buildings. 

The  greatest  source  of  difficulty  in  improving  established 
grounds  is  often  found  in  improperly  located  buildings. 
We  can  easily  dig  up  here  and  there  a  tree  or  prune  them  to 
good  form  and  transplant  shrubs  and  herbaceous  plants 
with  little  cost,  but  to  relocate  buildings  often  entails  great 
expense.  One  of  the  greatest  mistakes  made  in  locating 
buildings  is  in  placing  them  too  near  the  street  and  too 
closely  together. 

The  main  buildings  can  seldom  be  moved  or  changed 
without  considerable  cost,  but  the  relocation  of  small  build- 
ings can  often  be  easily  made. 

If  possible,  all  the  buildings  should  be  located  some  dis- 
tance from  the  street  and  far  enough  from  the  boundary- 
line  to  allow  of  some  decorative  trees  and  shrubs  on  every 
side  of  them,  to  serve  as  a  setting  for  the  central  part  of 
the  home-picture,  the  house. 

In  case  the  buildings  are  nearly  or  quite  on  the  line  all 
the  view  to  be  obtained  must  be  dependent  upon  that  pro- 
vided or  allowed  by  neighbors,  and  the  only  thing  that  can 
be  done  to  improve  the  beauty  of  the  buildings  is  to  plant 
vines  to  grow  upon  the  wall  or  upon  a  trellis  very  close  up 
to  it. 

If  possible,  the  outbuildings  should  be  located  in  the  rear 
of  the  dwelling,  at  some  distance  from  it,  and  more  or  less 
screened  from  the  latter  and  from  outside  view,  unless  they 


REKOVATIKG  AtfD  IMPROVING  OLD   HOMES.          105 

are  more  or  less  ornamental  in  character.  The  exposed 
view  of  a  neat,  comfortable  stable  is  not  objectionable,  as 
it  may  be  so  arranged  as  to  give  the  air  of  substantial  com- 
fort and  extent  to  the  grounds  not  to  be  found  where  only 
the  house  is  in  view. 


Improperly  Located  Walks  and  Drives. 

One  of  the  most  frequent  -faults  to  be  found  on  an  old 
place  is  improperly  located  walks  and  drives. 

The  proper  location  of  these  necessities  of  comfort  is  of 
the  greatest  importance,  and  the  reader  is  referred  to 
Chapter  VI,  where  the  matter  is  more  fully  discussed. 

It  must  be  borne  in  mind  in  the  construction  of  roads 
and  walks  under  all  circumstances  that  a  good  road  cannot 
be  made  no  matter  what  the  material  used  unless  the  road- 
bed is  thoroughly  under  drained,  and  the  surface  of  the  road 
or  walk  must  have  more  or  less  curve  or  slope  toward  the 
sides  to  carry  off  the  surface-water.  The  finer  and  poorer 
the  material  used,  the  greater  this  curve  must  be. 

Wherever  it  is  possible  one  or  more  lines  of  tile  should 
be  placed  under  the  road-bed,  at  least  three  feet  deep,  with 
a  good  fall  and  free  outlet  for  drainage. 

The  extent  of  the  walks  and  drives  should  be  limited  to 
the  actual  needs  of  the  place.  The  fewer  the  gravelled 
walks  or  roads  the  better;  yet  a  place  without  at  least  a 
walk  up  to  the  front  door,  or  a  smooth  drive  to  the  stable, 
would  look  inhospitable  or  almost  uninhabited. 

While  there  is  no  beauty  in  walks  and  drives  in  them- 
selves, yet  if  well  laid  out  in  graceful  curves  just  where  they 
are  needed,  and  are  well  cared  for,  the  variety  they  afford 
and  the  air  of  comfort  and  the  inviting  hospitality  they  give 


106  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

to  a  place  make  them  very  important  factors  in  all  home 
landscape  work. 

In  many  cases  the  relocation  of  walks  and  drives  is  sim- 
ply a  matter  of  ploughing  up  the  old  one,  grading  a  little 
and  relocating,  as  a  majority  of  these  walks  are  made  on  the 
surface  of  the  ground  without  previous  subsoil  preparation. 
If,  however,  a  road-bed  has  been  formed  by  excavation 
and  filling  in  with  stones,  the  work  will  be  more  expensive. 

In  relocating,  the  rules  given  in  Chapter  VI  for  the 
establishment  of  new  roads  and  walks  will  be  equally 
applicable. 

An  already-established  place  that  needs  improving  may 
be  likened  to  an  unfinished  picture  the  details  of  which 
must  be  filled  out  and  retouched  and  any  defects  covered 
up,  while  in  the  new  place  we  have  but  the  canvas — the 
colors  and  other  material  are  all  new  and  fresh,  i.e.,  the 
land,  the  rocks,  water,  buildings,  grass,  trees,  shrubs,  etc*. 
The  result  in  the  first  case  depends  largely  upon  how  much 
and  how  good  is  the  work  that  has  been  done,  and  how 
skilful  the  artist  in  adapting  himself  to  the  ideas  already 
started,  and  in  remedying  defects.  In  the  second  case  the 
results  largely  depend  on  the  artist  alone. 

Farm-home  Decoration. 

The  decoration  of  farm  homes  is  a  subject  not  often  dis- 
cussed in  works  on  landscape  gardening,  but  there  is  no 
place  so  susceptible  of  ornamentation  as  the  average  farm, 
and  possibly  no  place  where  so  little  is  done  to  improve  the 
beauty  of  the  home  surroundings.  Generally  there  is  an 
abundance  and  a  great  variety  of  land,  also  a  wealth  of 
materials  in  the  way  of  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants  that  may 


EEXOVATING   AKD   IMPROVING   OLD   HOMES. 


101 


be  used,  and  the  tools,  teams,  and  labor  with  which  to  bring 
about  the  ornamental  results. 


Our  Farmers  Cultivate  Too  Much  Land. 

Most  of  our  farmers  cultivate  too  much  land,  and  they 
would  in  many  cases  grow  rich  faster  if  they  cultivated  less 
land  and  planted  the  less  productive  places,  tl;e  odd  bits, 
the  rough  stony  fields  and  abrupt  slopes,  the  small  irregular 
lots  in  the  angles  formed  by  roads  or  fence  lines,  with  trees 
that  would  be  a  source  of  beauty  and  in  time  add  value  to 
the  property.  Such  decoration  would  be  a  source  of  pleasure 
to  those  doing  the  work  and  to  all  of  the  occupants  of  the 
home,  and  the  pleasant  associations  and  memories  of  the 
farm  home,  where  beauty  and  utility  are  tlmaj  combined, 
will  do  niucli  to  make  home  the  dearest  of  all  (places,  and 
especially  prevent  the  young  men  from  leaving  the  farm 
for  city  life. 

The  rules  for  planting,  arrangement,  anclJ  care  of  trees 
and  shrubs  to  be  followed  in  tbis  wort  are  gi/ep  in  previous 
chapters.  Many  unsightly  objects  Man  l>|Jfeasily  hidden 
from  view,  and  the  more  beautiful  fe>tiir|ifn  the  picture 
from  the  dwelling  be  brought  out  njpre  ^eminently  and 
improved. 

Windbreaks  for  the  house  and  oth^r-  jBildings  may  be 
easilv  provided,  as  well  as  shelter  for  tli^f»ock  in  the  pas- 
ture against  the  fierce  storms  of  spring laid  autumn  and 
the  burning  sun  of  the  summer. 

A  few  majestic  oaks,  chestnuts,  or  other  Jspreading  trees 
in  the  pasture,  or  here  and  there  dotted  about  the  farm  or 
near  the  buildings,  add  much  to  the  beauty  and  character 
of  the  farm  landscape,  and  every  eifort  possible  should  be 


10$  LANbSCAtD  GARDENING. 


made  to  encourage  the  growth  of  such  and  preserve  any 
that  may  be  already  established. 

Fruit-trees  as  Ornaments. 

Fruit-trees  on  suitable  land  in  many  cases  may  be  used 
in  work  of  decoration  on  the  farm,  thus  serving  a  double 
purpose.  The  apple,  pear,  and  plum  require  a  strong  well- 
enriched  soil  and  an  avenue  just  inside  the  road  boundary, 
bordering  large  mowing  lot  or  farm  roadways,  if  properly 
cared  for  so  as  to  make  well-formed  heads,  would  be  sources 
of  great  beauty  when  in  blossom,  and  again  when  loaded 
with  fruit  in  the  autumn.  The  cherry  and  peach  require 
a  lighter  soil  with  a  full  exposure  of  air,  as  on  the  brow  of  a 
hill  or  a  western  or  northwestern  exposure,  and  nothing  is 
more  beautiful  than  an  avenue  of  pyramidal  cherry-trees 
when  in  bloom  early  in  the  spring,  while  the  beauty  of  the 
peach  blossom  and  its  ripening  fruit  have  not  been  too 
highly  praised  in  song  and  story. 

The  labor  and  expense  required  to  produce  the  few 
touches  of  beauty  on  many  of  our  farms  to  make  them 
homes  of  comfort  and  beauty  is  very  small,  and  the  skill 
and  taste  acquired  in  this  work  will  enable  one  to  become 
more  skilful  in  other  directions,  i.e.,  in  growing  and  pre- 
paring many  of  the  profitable  crops  for  market. 

It  is  generally  conceded  that  the  most  successful  and 
thrifty  farmers  are  those  who  have  a  love  for  the  beautiful, 
who  keep  their  premises  in  a  neat  condition,  and  who  have 
every  tool  kept  in  its  proper  place  when  not  in  use,  and  who 
never  allow  anything  to  be  out  of  place  longer  than  is 
necessary.  No  waste,  no  leaks  are  allowed,  and  if  weeds  or 
brush  interfere  with  their  growing  crops,  or  with  ornamental 


RENOVATING    AND    IMPROVING    OLD    HOMES.  109 

or  fruit  trees,  they  are  despatched.  Love  of  order  prevails 
everywhere,  about  the  barn,  by  the  roadside,  as  well  as  about 
the  horne-buil dings,  and  beauty  and  thrift  go  hand  in  hand. 
We  are  largely  creatures  of  habits  of  thought  or  of  labor, 
and  anything  done  thoroughly,  systematically,  beautifully 
in  one  direction  helps  us  more  or  less  in  all  other  lines  of 
work. 


Farm-roads. 

Good  farm -roads  are  a  necessity  for  quick  and  easy  trans- 
portation of  the  products  of  the  farm.  The  principles  of 
construction  of  such  are  the  same  as  for  other  roads,*  and 
where  there  is  an  abundance  of  stones  they  may  be  utilized 
for  foundation  and  unsightly  objects  removed  from  the  sur- 
face of  the  land  or  roadside. 

Road-making  is  very  expensive  business,  and  few  farmers 
find  profit  enough  in  their  work  to  warrant  the  expense  of 
long  lines  of  roadway.  Only  such  roads  as  are  absolutely 
needed  should  be  made,  and  the  expense  of  construction 
will  be  felt  less  if  only  a  short  length  is  constructed  at 
one  time.  Whenever  stones  are  being  picked  up  from 
the  land,  a  convenient  way  of  getting  rid  of  them  is  to 
excavate  a  piece  of  roadway  and  cover  them  up  with  a 
dressing  of  gravel.  This  is  far  better  than  dumping  them 
along  the  roadsides  or  in  some  other  equally  conspicuons 
place,  where  brush  and  weeds  will  grow  up  through  and 
about  them  in  such  a  manner  that  they  cannot  be  eradicated 
except  by  finally  removing  the  stones  and  tearing  them  out 
root  and  branch. 

*  See  chapter  on  Roads  and  Roadside  Improvement. 


110  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


Removal  of  Stone  Walls  and  Fences. 

Except  around  permanent  pastures  and  to  protect  fruit 
plantations  from  trespass,  walls  and  fences  are  no  longer  a 
necessity.  They  are  not  ornamental  no  matter  how  nicely 
made,  and  are  very  costly  to  construct  and  keep  in  repair. 
They  occupy  a  great  amount  of  land,  and  the  average 
stone  or  wood  farm-fence  gi'/es  harbor  to  mice,  squirrels, 
and  other  vermin.  It  is  also  almost  impossible  to  keep 
weeds  and  brush  from  getting  such  a  foothold  along  their 
line  as  not  to  be  easily  dislodged,  and  ornamental  trees  and 
shrubs  are  much  more  subject  to  insect  and  fungous  pests, 
making  it  very  difficult  to  grow  them  successfully  where 
such  harbors  for  these  pests  exist.  If  one  is  located  near  a 
large  and  growing  town  or  city,  stone  walls  can  be  disposed 
of  for  building  purposes,  and  the  "stone  crop"  of  many 
farms  often  becomes  a  large  source  of  income. 

Pond-holes  and  boggy  meadows  may  be  filled  up  with  the 
accumulating  small  stones,  covered  over  with  soil,  and  thus 
land  of  some  value  be  produced,  while  the  stones  are  put 
where  they  will  never  cause  further  trouble. 


CHAPTER   VIII. 
COUNTRY   ROADS    AND   ROADSIDE   IMPROVEMENTS. 

IT  is  often  said  that  the  condition  of  the  roads  in  any 
community  is  an  "  index  of  the  intelligence  of  its  people  " ; 
and  while  this  may  not  be  wholly  true,  the  roads  are  an 
index  of  their  thrift  and  prosperity,  for  without  good  roads 
frequent  and  easy  communication  cannot  be  had,  farm 
crops  and  manufactured  products  cannot  be  taken  to 
market  at  the  same  cost  on  poor  as  on  good  roads,  because 
of  increased  time  required  for  transportation,  and  the 
greater  wear  and  tear  of  horses  and  carriages.  Then  there 
is  little  pleasure  of  comfort  in  riding  over  muddy,  rough, 
and  unkept  roads. 

In  many  sections  the  amount  of  money  appropriated  for 
the  construction  and  repair  of  roads  is  sufficient  to  keep 
them  in  good  condition,  but  this  money  is  often  expended 
with  such  poor  judgment  as  to  leave  a  large  part  of  the 
roads  practically  uncared  for.  The  work,  too,  is  often  let 
out  to  parties  who  know  nothing  of  the  principles  of  road- 
making,  or  whose  greatest  care  is  to  make  as  much  profit 
from  the  work  as  possible. 

The  Conditions  Necessary  for  a  Good  Road. 

To  construct  a  good  road  three  things  are  necessary,  viz., 
(1)  well  under  drained  soil,  (2)  a  good  foundation,  and  (3) 
good  road  material  for  the  surface. 

Ill 


112  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

1.  In  ordinary  road-making  very  little  attention  is  given 
even  to  surface-draining,  much  less  to  underdraining, 
yet  nothing  would  improve  our  roads  at  so  small  a  cost  as 
tile  or  stone  drains  under  the  road-bed:  and  no  matter  how 
good  the  surface  material,  a  perfect  road  cannot  be  made 
without  perfect  drainage.  If  the  land  is  very  wet  and  full 
of  springs,  a  line  of  tile  on  loth  sides  of  the  road-bed,  not 
less  than  3|  feet  below  the  surface,  may  be  needed.  See 
Figs.  53  and  54.  If  the  road  is  on  a  slope,  the  tile  should 
be  placed  a  little  above  the  upper  gutter  to  cut  off  all  water 
that  would  flow  to  the  surface. 

'2.  A  layer  of  stones  from  six  inches  to  one  foot  in  diameter, 
placed  at  a  depth  of  two  or  three  feet  below  the  level  of  the 
road  and  well  packed  in  at  the  bottom,  provides  good 
drainage  for  a  time  and  makes  a  very  solid  foundation  upon 
which  to  place  smaller  stones  and  a  top  layer  of  gravel  six 
to  eight  inches  deep.  But  for  ordinary  road-making  this 
foundation  will  not  be  required  if  the  surface-drainage  and 
underdrainage  are  well  attended  to. 

3.  Good  materials  for  road -making  are  often  difficult  to 
obtain  without  considerable  expense,  but  with  the  good 
foundation  resulting  from  thorough  drainage  fairly  good 
roads  are  sometimes  made  with  poor  surface  material. 

Broken-stone  Roads. 

The  best  material  for  a  permanent  road  is  undoubtedly 
broken  stone,  and  it  will  generally  be  found  the  cheapest  in 
the  end ;  and  next  to  this  is  clean  sharp  gravel  with  more 
or  less  small  stones  intermixed.  To  make  the  broken-stone 
road  requires  the  investment  of  considerable  capital  in  stone- 
crushers  and  heavy  steam-rollers,  which  is  beyond  the 
means  of  small  towns. 


COUNTRY    ROADS   AND    ROADSIDE    IMPROVEMENTS.    113 

The  assistance  now  being  offered  by  many  States  to 
suburban  districts  in  the  construction  of  State  roads  made 
on  the  most  approved  principles  will  lead  to  rapid  progress 
in  correct  ideas  of  road-making;  and  the  large  number  of 
bicycles  now  in  use  will  furnish  another  incentive  for 
further  improvement. 

In  this  volume  no  attempt  will  be  made  to  give  detailed 
instructions  for  the  construction  of  broken-stone  roads, 
but  the  discussion  will  be  confined  to  the  making  and  im- 
proving ordinary  gravel  roads. 

Surface  of  the  Eoad. 

The  most  noticeable  feature  of  the  ordinary  country  road 
is  its  flatness  and  nnevenness  of  surface  and  the  little  atten- 
tion given  to  surface  outline  and  underdrainage,  both  of 


FIG.  61.— SECTION  OF  ORDINARY  COUNTRY  ROAD. 

which  defects  can  be  easily  remedied.  A  section  of  the 
ordinary  road,  as  often  seen,  is  shown  in  Fig.  61,  where  the 
shoulders  are  higher  than  the  road-bed  and  with  depressions 
or  basins  here  and  there,  caused  by  settling  from  the  weight 
of  traffic  or  from  the  displacement  by  frost.  Such  a  road 
will  wear  out  rapidly  where  the  water  stands,  will  be  un- 


FIG.  62.— SECTION  OP  MACADAM  ROAD. 

pleasant  to  drive  over  on  account  of  uneven  surface  and 
mud,  and  the  worn  particles  of  the  road  will  not  be  washed 


114  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

out  to  the  side,  but  become  fine  dust  during  dry  weather. 
Fig.  62  illustrates  the  modern  macadam  road  with  well- 
rounded  surface  and  gutters;  but  whether  the  road  be  con- 
structed of  broken  stone  or  not,  the  rounded  surface  and 
gutters  are  a  necessity  for  a  good  road. 

The  surface  of  the  road  must  be  made  more  or  less 
crowning,  according  to  the  material  used.  The  poorer  or 
more  loamy  the  material  the  more  must  it  be  crowned  or 
rounded.  The  shoulders  made  by  the  settling  of  the  centre 
of  the  road,  and  by  growth  of  grass  and  washing  of  the  fine 
particles  from  the  centre,  should  be  removed  whenever  they 
are  so  high  as  to  interfere  with  the  quick  passage  of  the 
surface-water  to  the  side  gutters.  Gutters  or  ditches  must 
be  provided  along  the  roadsides  to  prevent  surface-water 
from  washing  up  on  the  road  surface  and  to  catch  and  carry 
off  quickly  the  wash  from  the  road.  These  ditches  must 
have  frequent  outlets  and  be  without  basins  in  which  the 
water  will  stand. 

On  hillsides  frequent  bars  must  be  made,  and  be  kept  in 
such  condition  at  all  times  that  110  water  will  rim  over  them 
in-to  the  middle  of  the  road.  They  should  start  from  the 
middle  of  the  road  and  run  diagonally  to  each  side  and  not 
diagonally  across  the  whole  road.  If  made  as  in  Fig.  63 


FIG.  63.— A  PKOPEKLY  CONSTRUCTED  BAR. 

both  wheels  will  strike  the  bar  at  once  and  no  side  jolt  will 
be  felt,  while  if  constructed  as  in  Fig.  64  a  very  unpleasant 


COUNTRY    ROADS    AND    ROADSIDE    IMPROVEMENTS.    115 

side  jolt  is  produced  and  carriages  are  often  seriously 
wrenched.  On  the  upper  side  of  a  side-hill  road  good  and 
frequently  cleared  gutters  are  needed  to  prevent  washing, 
and  also  frequent  culverts  to  carry  the  water  across  to  the 
lower  side;  for  if  the  water  runs  over  the  roadside  and  a 


FIG.  64.— AN  IMPROPERLY  CONSTRUCTED  BAR. 

long  distance  in  the  middle  of  the  road,  it  often  gains  such 
momentum  as  to  do  a  great  amount  of  damage  during 
heavy  rains. 

Width  of  Road-bed. 

The  width  of  the  road-bed  as  constructed  by  our  road- 
makers  is  very  variable,  some  making  them  from  15  to  20 
feet,  while  others  would  make  them  only  from  8  to  10  fee,t 
wide  for  the  same  amount  of  traffic.  On  most  main  roads 
between  large  towns  and  cities  the  width  need  not  be  over 
18  feet  wide,  or  only  wide  enough  for  two  teams  to  pass 
readily,  with  rounded,  sloping,  well-turfed  sides  which 
will  not  be  injured  by  an  occasional  turning  out  upon  them, 
and  crowning  sufficiently  to  allow  the  surface-water  to  pass 
off  quickly. 

In  less  thickly  settled  districts  a  single  width  of  road-bed, 
i.e.,  from  8  to  10  feet  wide,  will  be  as  much  as  is  needed, 
and  will  be  much  less  expensive  in  construction  and  repairs 
than  if  made  wider. 


116 


LANDSCAPE    HARDENING. 


Repairing  Roads. 


One  of  the  greatest  mistakes  made  in  repairing  roads  is 
in  using  poor  material  for  dressing  them  over,  when  good 
material  may  be  obtained  at  only  a  little  additional  cost. 

The  best  gravel  that  is  to  be  had  within  reasonable  dis- 
tance will  generally  be  found  the  cheapest  in  the  end. 

A  great  mistake  is  often  made  also  in  spreading  the 
repair  material  evenly  over  the  whole  road  surface,  as  in 
Fig.  65,  when  one  half  of  the  material  placed  in  the  centre 


FIG.  65.— AN  IMPKOPEKLY  GRAVELLED  ROAU. 

with  the  shoulders  of  the  road  removed,  as  in  Fig.   66, 
would  give  far  better  results.     If  the  material  is  put  on 


FIG.  66. — A  PROPERLY  GRAVELLED  ROAD. 

flat,  the  road-bed  will  remain  flat,  or  grow  more  and  more 
depressed  in  the  middle,  and  none  of  the  fine-worn  material 
can  pass  off,  but  remains  to  make  mud  and  dust;  while 
if  well  rounded  in  the  centre  it  will  retain  its  form  for  some 
time,  the  fine-worn  material  or  dust  will  be  washed  to  the 
ontside  of  the  road,  and  less  trouble  will  be  experienced 
with  mud  and  dust. 

The  gravel  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  road  will  work  to 
the  outside  as  fast  as  it  is  needed  to  keep  the  form  of  the 
road-bed,  and  there  is  scarcely  ever  any  good  reason  for 


COUNTRY    ROADS   AND   ROADSIDE   IMPROVEMENTS.    117 

spreading  it  more  than  from  4  to  6  feet  wide  in  a  road-bed 
of  a  single  width,  or  8  to  12  feet  in  a  double-track  road. 

As  far  as  possible  when  dressing  over  a  road  the  coarser 
material  should  be  kept  spread  or  raked  forward  as  each 
succeeding  load  is  added  and  well  covered  with  the  finer 
material. 

Road-repairing  should  be  done  in  the  spring  before  the 
ground  has  become  fully  settled. 

If  the  shoulders  of  the  road  are  kept  worked  off  by  the 
road-scraper  or  plow,  and  a  thin  coating  of  gravel  be  put  on 
in  the  centre  each  season,  any  ordinarily  well  underdrained 
road  can  be  kept  in  good  repair  at  a  very  small  cost. 

Road-scrapers  when  properly  used  are  great  labor-savers, 
and  in  sections  where  ordinary  soil  must  be  used — and  there 
are  many  such — they  save  a  great  amount  of  labor  and  ex- 
pense. Where  the  unworn  material  on  the  edges  can  be 
used  to  advantage,  or  for  the  purpose  of  breaking  off  the 
shoulders,  the  rounding  of  the  surface  of  the  road  in  the 
spring,  the  road-scraper  will  do  the  work  quickly  and 
thoroughly,  but  to  use  it  during  the  summer  for  any  other 
purpose  than  for  scraping  off  the  worn  material  will  result 
in  more  harm  than  good. 

The  practice  of  turnpiking  or  scraping  poor  material,  like 
turf  and  loam,  into  the  middle  of  the  road  during  the 
summer  will  largely  account  for  the  poor  condition  of  many 
of  our  roads. 

All  turf  turned  up  by  the  road-scraper  or  plow  should  be 
removed  from  the  road-bed  entirely  and  used  for  filling  in 
over  steep  embankments,  deep  gutters,  or  in  levelling  up 
and  otherwise  improving  the  roadside, 


118  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


Roadside  Improvement. 

In  the  rush  and  hurry  to  gain  wealth  or  fame  we 
Americans  often  forget  everything  but  our  immediate  sur- 
roundings, and  our  roadsides,  even  in  the  vicinity  of  many 
well-kept  residences,  are  in  a  state  of  utter  neglect — not 
only  this,  but  the  roadsides  are  made  a  dumping-place  for 
rubbish  of  all  sorts. 

It  would  require  but  little  time  or  expense  to  put  the 
roadsides  in  our  towns  and  villages  into  a  state  of  great 
beauty  and  neatness  if  all  would  work  together  in  the  right 
way.  Perhaps  the  first  and  most  important  consideration 
in  roadside  improvement  is  that  all  shall  refrain  from 
dumping  anything  along  the  roadside,  and  the  highway 
surveyor  or  road  commissioner  or  agent  should  first  set 
the  example,  and  whenever  trees  are  trimmed  up  or  brush 
is  cut  along  the  roadside,  or  stones  picked  up  or  dug  out 
of  the  road-bed,  that  all  shall  be  removed  entirely  from 
within  the  road  boundaries.  All  accumulations  of  stone  or 
other  rubbish  should  be  removed,  so  that  undesirable  trees, 
shrubs,  or  weeds,  can  be  easily  eradicated. 

The  expense  of  this  work  need  not  be  very  great,  for 
almost  everywhere  there  may  be  found  pond-holes,  ditches, 
ravines,  etc.,  where  such  materials  may  be  dumped  and 
covered  up.  The  next  important  matter  is  the  smoothing 
and  evening  up  of  the  surface  of  the  roadside.  Here  again 
those  in  charge  of  the  repairs  of  the  roads  should  take  the 
initiative,  and  all  turf  and  loamy  soil  not  suitable  to  be 
put  on  the  road-surface  should  be  used  for  smoothing  up 
and  making  gracefully  curved  or  sloping  roadsides. 


COUNTRY    ROADS   AND   ROADSIDE   IMPROVEMENTS.    119 

Preserve  Native  Trees  and  Shrubs. 

The  native  trees  and  shrnbs  should  next  have  considera- 
tion. No  country  possesses  so  many  beautiful  woody  plants 
as  the  United  States;  they  are  generally  found  growing 
where  they  thrive  best,  and  any  desirable  kinds  found 
growing  by  the  roadside  that  can  be  made  to  produce  a 
proper  form  of  growth  should  be  preserved  and  improved. 

The  laws  passed  by  some  of  our  States  for  the  protection 
of  shade-trees,  whereby  it  is  made  the  privilege  (it  should 
be  the  "  duty  ")  of  the  town  or  city  authorities  to  mark 
such  trees  and  shrubs  as  it  is  desirable  to  have  preserved, 
and  making  it  a  criminal  offence  to  destroy  those  thus 
marked,  are  steps  in  the  right  direction,  and  should  be 
adopted  in  every  State. 

There  is  nothing  which  adds  so  much  to  the  comfort  of 
the  travelling  public  as  well-shaded  streets,  and  a  compara- 
tively short  time  is  required  for  our  most  rapid-growing 
trees  to  reach  the  size  to  afford  considerable  shade;  but, 
whether  we  live  to  enjoy  or  see  others  enjoy  their  beauty 
and  shade  or  not,  we  are  certain  that  if  properly  planted  in 
suitable  soil  more  than  one  generation  will  be  benefited 
by  them.  If  every  landowner  would  trim  up  and  care  for 
a  few  trees  found  growing  by  his  roadside,  or  plant  a  few 
each  year  where  none  are  now  growing,  it  would  be  but  a 
short  time  before  our  country  would  be  noted  for  the  beauty 
of  its  roadways,  as  well  as  for  the  general  comfort  and 
beauty  of  the  homes  of  its  common  people. 

Trees  found  growing  by  our  roadsides  will  often  be  of  many 
varieties  and  will  seldom  be  in  so  exact  lines  as  if  set  out, 
but  often  more  real  beauty  will  be  the  result  of  this  variety 
and  irregularity  of  line  and  spacing.  In  many  cases  very 


120  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

beautiful  results  will  be  obtained  by  this  irregular  arrange- 
ment; at  many  points  along  a  roadway  interesting  views  of 
extended  landscapes  or  glimpses  of  water  are  brought  to 
view  that  would  be  hidden  if  the  line  of  trees  was  un- 
broken. Fig.  60a  shows  a  beautiful  roadside  picture. 

Along  almost  every  country  road  may  be  found  young 
trees  that  have  sprung  up  from  seed  planted  by  nature  in 
the  shelter  of  the  stone  wall  or  fence  and  hedge-rows. 
These  trees  are  generally  well  rooted,  and  if  allowed  to 
grow  and  are  given  proper  care  as  to  pruning  and  protec- 
tion while  young  they  will  make  better  formed,  more 
hardy  and  long-lived  trees  than  those  grown  in  the 
nurseries.  Should  the  trees  have  been  injured  by  growing 
too  closely,  their  form  may  be  remedied  as  described  in 
Chapter  VII  on  "  Renovating  Old  Places." 

Fruit-trees  along  Roadways. 

As  a  matter  of  economy  fruit-trees  along  the  roadsides 
are  advisable,  for  they  generally  grow  with  great  luxuriance 
with  little  care,  produce  large  crops  of  fruit,  and,  in  a 
measure,  serve  the  purpose  of  ornamentation,  but  they  do 
not  give  the  desired  shade,  such  as  is  produced  by  the  elm, 
maple,  oak,  and  other  tall-growing  ornamental  trees,  and 
which  is  one  of  the  main  objects  of  roadside  tree-planting. 

Planting  Avenues. 

In  almost  every  section  of  our  country  we  find  beautiful 
avenues  of  shade-trees  along  the  roadsides  which  have  been 
planted  by  public-spirited  citizens,  and  such  avenues  are 
grander  monuments  to  their  memory  than  stone  or  marble; 


COUNTRY    ROADS   AND    ROADSIDE   IMPROVEMENTS.    121 

but  the  amount  of  roadway  thus  decorated  is  very  small  as 
compared  with  that  which  is  bare  and  possessed  of  little  or 
no  beauty.  Village  improvement  societies,  Arbor-day 
planting,  planting-bees,  etc.,  are  doing  much  to  encourage 
and  increase  the  good  work.  The  expense  of  the  trees 
is  very  small,  and  it  requires  but  an  hour  or  two  to 
obtain  and  plant  a  tree,  and  every  landowner  will  find  a 
few  hours  spent  each  year  in  thus  adding  to  the  beauty  of 
his  surroundings  often  the  most  profitable  hours  of  his  life, 
adding  to  the  value  of  his  property  and  building  a  monu- 
ment that  shall  stand  long  after  his  face  has  been  forgotten. 

Ornamental  Shrubs  and  Flowering  Plants  along  the 
Roadsides. 

The  great  variety  of  ornamental  shrubs,  vines,  and  plants 
that  we  find  growing  along  our  country  roads,  even  when 
growing  in  neglect,  are  very  beautiful  features,  and  with  a 
little  care  might  be  made  to  give  as  beautiful  results  as  are 
often  obtained  on  the  lawn. 

The  planting  of  exotic  or  imported  species  under  such 
conditions  seems  out  of  taste  and  cannot  be  recommended. 

Grass  alone  under  roadside  trees  and  shrubs  unless  well 
trimmed  is  not  a  very  ornamental  feature,  but  is  necessary 
to  a  perfect  finish  and  setting  of  the  trees  and  shrubs. 

If  the  land  is  smooth  and  free  from  stones  and  can  be 
plowed  through  to  the  roadway,  the  surface  can  be  very 
easily  graded  up  and  finished  around  the  ornamental  plant- 
ing, but  generally  the  smoothing  and  levelling  must  be  done 
by  the  slow  process  of  digging  off  the  projections  and  filling 
np  the  depressions. 

The  same  smoothness  that  we  find  on  the  lawn  is  not  to 


122  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

be  expected  or  desired,  but  there  should  always  be  a  well- 
rounded  gutter  between  the  road-bed  and  the  border. 

As  with  trees,  we  find  also  a  great  many  shrubs,  ferns, 
and  flowering  plants  already  established  along  the  roadsides, 
and  but  little  care  is  needed  to  put  them  in  condition  of 
perfect  growth.  Shrubs  can  be  more  severely  pruned  and 
more  quickly  grown  into  perfect  shape  than  trees. 

This  work,  however,  should  not  be  left  to  the  irresponsi- 
ble road  commissioner  or  agent,  but  should  be  in  the  hands 
of  the  village  improvement  society  or  some  one  who  can  be 
depended  upon  to  trim  out  only  the  undesirable  varieties 
and  preserve  such  as  are  the  most  ornamental  and  of  the 
best  form. 

Should  the  soil  be  very  poor,  a  light  dressing  of  compost 
or  fertilizer  should  be  used,  but  generally  the  road-wash  can 
be  so  utilized  as  to  make  the  best  of  top-dressing  and  pro- 
duce the  most  perfect  growth. 

If  we  take  the  ornamental  trees,  shrubs,  vines,  etc.,  as 
we  find  them  along  our  roadsides,  we  are  pretty  sure  that 
the  soil  in  which  they  are  found  is  well  suited  to  their 
growth,  but  if  we  transplant  to  fill  up  places  not  properly 
provided  we  must  be  sure  to  set  out  such  as  are  suited  to 
the  soil  and  exposure  of  the  place.  Some  species  will  only 
do  well  under  conditions  of  a  close  tangled  growth  and  such 
conditions  must  be  provide^for  them,  while  those  that  only 
reach  perfection  in  full  exposure  on  all  sides  should  be 
planted  accordingly. 

The  custom  in  many  sections  of  our  country  of  regarding 
everything  growing  along  the  roadsides  as  common  property 
will  need  some  reform  before  roadside  decoration  can  be 
carried  out  to  its  fullest  extent,  but  the  process  of  education 
is  going  on  in  our  public  parks  and  squares,  in  cemeteries 


COUNTRY   ROADS   AND    ROADSIDE   IMPROVEMENTS.    123 

and  school-yards,  and  there  has  been  a  great  improvement 
in  the  respect  that  oar  people  have  for  public  decoration, 
they  realizing  more  and  more  the  great  benefit  such  work 
is  to  the  community. 


Removal  of  Walls  and  Fences. 

The  removal  of  walls  and  fences  wherever  not  needed  to 
keep  stock  in  the  pastures  will  do  more  than  anything  else 
to  help  on  the  cause  of  roadside  improvement.  Stone  walls 
and  other  fences  are  not  needed  except  under  the  conditions 
mentioned  on  a  previous  page.  They  are  a  great  source  of 
expense  to  build  and  keep  in  repair,  and  in  many  sections 
of  the  country  are  being  removed  from  the  roadsides  and 
along  cultivated  fields.  Where  the  land  is  valuable,  this  is 
an  important  item,  as  considerable  areas  are  made  available 
for  cultivation,  besides  greatly  improving  the  roadsides  and 
reducing  the  number  of  insects  and  vermin  that  neglected 
roadsides  harbor.  If  a  fence  is  decided  to  be  necessary 
along  the  roadway  or  near  dwellings  it  should  be  made  as 
inconspicuous  as  possible.  A  woven-wire  fence  on  gas-pipe 
or  iron-rod  posts  all  painted  green  will  be  the  least  con- 
spicuous from  all  points  of  view  and  in  the  end  not  more 
expensive. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

PARKS,  PUBLIC   SQUARES,  SCHOOL-YARDS,  ETC. 

THE  limits  of  this  work  will  allow  of  very  little  discus- 
sion of  the  above  lines  of  ornamental  landscape-work,  but 
it  is  a  subject  that  is  attracting  so  much  attention  and  so 
much  progress  is  being  made  in  this  kind  of  work  that  some 
of  the  principles  involved  will  be  briefly  touched  upon. 

Nearly  all  of  the  parks  connected  with  large  towns  and 
cities  are  under  the  direction  and  management  of  skilled 
engineers  and  landscape  artists,  and  little  that  can  be  pre- 
sented within  the  limits  of  this  volume  will  be  of  value  to 
them,  but  in  many  towns  and  cities  we  find  so  much  im- 
perfect work,  and  so  much  of  a  tendency  to  attempt  more 
than  the  available  funds  will  warrant  or  more  than  the 
managers  can  master,  that  we  cannot  but  offer  the  sugges- 
tion that  if  less  were  attempted  and  the  more  natural 
features  were  developed  and  improved  instead  of  trying  to 
ape  the  larger  parks  which  are  far  beyond  them,  there 
would  be  less  of  the  shoddy  work  done  and  more  that  is 
really  artistic  and  beautiful  because  of  its  naturalness. 

The  well-kept  village  green  with  a  few  large  well-grown 
trees  in  perfect  condition  and  with  no  fence  around  it  is  a 
thing  of  real  beauty  easily  and  cheaply  cared  for,  far  ex- 
ceeding many  squares  or  small  parks  fenced  in  with  expen- 
sive iron  or  wooden  fences,  entirely  unnecessary  for  any 

124 


PARKS,    PUBLIC    SQUARES,    SCHOOL- YARDS,    ETC.       125 

purpose  whatever,  elaborate  fountains,  and  attempts  at 
statuary. 

When  the  natural  features  of  any  park,  square,  common, 
or  village  green  have  been  made  as  perfect  as  possible,  and 
all  made  to  blend  and  harmonize  with  the  surroundings, 
then  it  is  time  enough  to  think  of  adding  artificial  objects. 
Let  every  tree,  shrub,  vine,  or  plant  be  made  as  perfect  as 
possible.  Let  every  rock  or  ledge  too  large  to  be  easily 
removed  be  decorated  with  suitable  natural  growth  of 
shrubs,  vines,  and  plants.  Let  any  body  of  water,  stream 
or  brooklet,  be  carefully  and  neatly  decorated,  and  there  is 
hardly  a  park,  square,  or  green  that  will  not  be  beautiful, 
that  will  not  possess  merit  that  will  please  any  one  with 
true  artistic  taste. 

ISTo  work  of  decoration  however  small  should  be  under- 
taken unless  it  cau  be  done  well,  for  half  work  is  often 
worse  than  no  work  at  all.  No  community  need  go  to 
a  great  expense  for  plans  or  advice  upon  the  subject  of 
ornainenting  public  grounds,  for  there  are  many  skilful 
men  connected  with  the  park  systems  of  neighboring  cities 
who  will  be  glad  to  help  on  the  cause  of  the  ornamentation 
of  public  grounds.  There  are  also  men  of  skill  and  experi- 
ence connected  with  the  colleges  and  experiment  stations  of 
each  State  to  whom  they  can  go  for  advice,  and  our  agri- 
cultural and  horticultural  press  abounds  in  illustrations  and 
suggestions  for  such  work.  What  is  most  needed  is  some 
partiotic  and  energetic  person  or  persons  with  a  real  love 
of  nature  and  the  beautiful  who  will  take  the  lead  and  work 
unceasingly  until  success  is  attained.  Such  individuals  are 
to  be  found  in  almost  every  community,  and  their  efforts 
should  be  seconded  and  supported  with  substantial  aid. 
The  old-time  "planting-bees"  should  be  revived,  or  the 


126  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

substitute  for  this,  Arbor-day,  when  the  planting  of  public 
grounds  by  the  united  effort  of  every  one  who  can  give  a 
few  hours  to  the  good  work,  would  soon  result  in  beautifying 
all  of  our  public  squares,  village  commons,  and  roadways. 


School-yard  Decoration. 

Much  has  been  written  in  the  past  few  years  on  the  sub- 
ject of  the  decoration  of  our  public-school  yards  or  play- 
grounds, and  some  progress  has  been  made  in  teaching 
the  average  village  schoolboy  that  there  are  some  things 
about  our  school  buildings  and  grounds  that  he  ought  to 
respect.  Very  little,  however,  can  be  done  in  this  direc- 
tion until  the  pupils  come  to  see  and  understand  the  effect 
of  beautiful  surroundings  and  acquire  something  of  a  love 
for  neatness  and  beauty,  both  inside  of  the  school-house 
and  on  the  play-grounds. 

This  may  be  accomplished  in  a  measure  if  nature-studies 
are  taught  to  our  younger  pupils  in  the  public  schools,  or 
better  still  if  at  home  they  learn  something  of  the  beauty 
and  wonders  of  the  natural  world  about  them,  and  of  the 
necessity  of  some  effort  and  restraint  on  their  part  in 
obtaining  and  preserving  the  things  of  comfort  and  beauty 
that  they  are  permitted  to  use. 

One  of  the  first  conditions  or  requirements  of  successful 
decoration  of  school-yards  is  an  abundance  of  land.  The 
quarter  or  half  acre  upon  which  school-buildings  are  usually 
located  is  by  far  too  small  to  provide  space  for  large  num- 
bers of  children  to  play  football,  baseball,  and  other  vigorous 
games  and  have  any  space  for  decoration,  and  it  is  useless 
to  attempt  anything  more  than  the  planting  of  a  few  large 
trees  upon  such  grounds  that  will  withstand  the  attack  of 


PARKS,    PUBLIC    SQUARES,    SCHOOL-YARDS,    ETC.         127 

the  crowd  in  their  rush  or  run  for  the  goal.  On  larger 
grounds  where  a  liberal  space  can  be  assigned  for  the  play- 
ground decoration  of  greater  or  less  extent  with  smaller 
trees,  shrubs,  or  plants  may  be  attempted  at  points  some 
distance  from  the  play-ground  and  in  the  angles  where  there 
is  no  necessity  or  excuse  for  the  pupils  crossing  the 
grounds. 

It  is  always  advisable  to  have  the  play-grounds  and  the 
sanitary  accommodation  of  the  boys  and  girls  separated, 
especially  in  graded  schools  of  the  older  pupils,  which 
necessitates  a  larger  area  of  land  and  more  extensive  decora- 
tion, and  for  a  school  of  from  100  to  200  pupils  not  less 
than  1  to  2  acres  will  provide  adequate  space.  This  large 
extent  of  land  is  often  difficult  to  obtain,  but  it  will  be 
found  one  of  the  best  investments  that  can  be  made  for 
our  school-children,  especially  in  thickly  settled  villages, 
and  where  the  buildings  are  located  near  stores,  railroad 
stations,  etc.  If  the  sanitaries  are  placed  in  the  basement 
of  the  school-building,  as  they  should  be  and  are  in  many 
modern  buildings,  and  the  grounds  are  where  they  com- 
mand full  view  from  school  doors  or  windows,  the  play- 
grounds need  not  be  separated  more  than  by  an  occasional 
group  of  small  shrubs  to  distinctly  mark  the  boundaries. 

Reading-rooms,  gymnasia,  and  other  sources  of  enter- 
tainment and  instruction  provided  for  the  pupils  of  our 
public  schools  will  be  found  to  aid  greatly  in  the  moral, 
physical,  and  intellectual  training  of  our  youth.  Xeatuess 
and  comfort  should  prevail  everywhere,  that  each  pupil  may 
feel  encouraged  in  very  effort  at  self-control  and  good  pur- 
poses. Figs.  67,  68,  and  69  illustrate  how  school-yards  of 
various  forms  may  be  divided  into  two  separate  yards  and 
the  arrangement  of  the  trees  and  shrubbery.  The  arrange- 


128 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


ment  of  shade-trees  around  the  border  is  a  desirable  feature, 
whatever  the  size  or  form  of  the  grounds,  and  if  trees  of 


Street 


FIG.  67. — ARRANGEMENT  OF  SCHOOL-YARDS. 

large  size  are  properly  planted  they  will  not  be  often  injured 
unless  it  is  done  wantonly,  and  with  very  little  care  are  sure 


Street 


FIG.  68. — ARRANGEMENT  OF  SCHOOL- YARDS. 

to  give  very  satisfactory  results.     If  the  pupils  can  be  in- 
terested in  the  work  of  decoration   by  the  observance  of 


PARKS,    PUBLIC    SQUARES,    SCHOOL-YARDS,    ETC.        129 

Arbor  Day  and  field  days,  there  will  be  little  or  no  difficulty 
in  keeping  the  sentiment  of  the  school  up  where  care  will 


Street 


FIG.  69.— ARRANGEMENT  OF  SCHOOL-YARDS. 

be  taken  that  no  injury  is  done  to  the  ornamental  material 
planted. 

If  all  the  pupils  of  a  school  can  be  encouraged  to  take  up 
the  study  of  the  science  of  botany,  and  beds  or  plots  of 
ground  provided  for  the  germination  of  seeds  or  growing 
of  interesting  plants,  it  will  be  a  source  of  instruction  and 
pleasure  and  lead  often  to  more  extended  decoration;  bat 
where  only  one  class  takes  up  the  work,  the  feeling  of  class 
jealousy  is  often  such  that  work  of  this  kind  is  not  safe 
from  molestation. 

As  in  tree-planting  by  the  roadside  or  on  the  lawn,  the 
mistake  is  very  often  made  of  planting  too  closely  for  full 
and  perfect  growth. 

No  nuisance  or  objectionable  views  should  be  permitted 
near  the  school-house,  and  if  distant  views  of  beauty  and 
interest  can  be  preserved  and  unpleasant  features  shut  out 
in  the  arrangement  of  the  trees  and  shrubs,  as  they  often 


130  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

can  be,  it  should  be  done.  The  more  beautiful  and  attrac- 
tive features  that  can  be  brought  together  about  our  school- 
houses  and  grounds  the  more  easily  will  the  pupils  be 
governed,  and  the  greater  will  be  their  progress  in  every- 
thing that  makes  for  good  citizenship  and  upright  honor- 
able lives. 

Cemetery  Decoration. 

The  decoration  of  the  resting-places  of  those  loved  ones 
who  have  gone  before  has  always  received  much  attention, 
and  special  grounds  in  very  village  and  hamlet  have  been 
set  aside  sacred  to  this  purpose. 

In  the  earlier  days  of  our  country  the  space  devoted  to 
this  use  was  very  limited  and  the  geometrical  style  of 
ornamentation  employed.  The  grounds,  being  enclosed  by 
more  or  less  pretentious  fence  and  the  trees  and.  shrubs 
arranged  in  a  stiff  formal  manner,  often  presented  the  most 
gloomy  and  uninviting  features  possible,  instead  of  that 
quiet  beauty  and  rest  that  we  love  to  think  of  as  the  most 
appropriate  resting-place  for  the  bodies  of  our  loved  ones. 

Within  the  past  fifteen  or  twenty  years,  however,  great 
progress  has  been  made  in  beautifying  these  grounds,  and 
to-day  we  have  some  of  the  most  beautiful  examples  of 
natural  landscape  or  ornamental  gardening  connected  with 
our  park  cemeteries  to  be  found  anywhere  in  the  world. 

In  the  selection  of  the  location  for  cemeteries  naturally 
beautiful  grounds,  with  more  or  less  seclusion  and  quiet, 
away  from  the  hurry  and  bustle  of  the  village  or  city,  and 
with  a  dry,  rather  light,  porous  soil,  are  most  desirable. 

The  more  natural  features  of  beauty  that  can  be  found 
the  more  easily  and  cheaply  beautiful  and  finished  work  can 
be  done. 


PARKS,   PUBLIC    SQUARES,    SCHOOL-YARDS,   ETC.        131 

All  such  natural  features  should  he  preserved  as  far  as 
possible,  and  no  attempt  be  made  to  bring  naturally  rounded 
slope  to  the  level.  In  case  of  very  abrupt  embankments 
some  grading  down  must  be  done,  but  often  by  introducing 
large  rocks  and  boulders  into  the  face  of  the  embankment 
the  appearance  of  naturally  projecting  ledges  or  boulders 
may  be  produced,  that  will  be  far  more  beautiful  than  any 
rounded  slope  can  possibly  be  made. 

In  most  cemeteries  the  main  source  of  income  is  from 
the  sale  of  lots,  and  the  great  danger  to  be  feared  is  that, 
in  the  desire  to  secure  a  large  number  of  lots,  the  orna- 
mental features  will  suffer,  and  too  many  lots  with  regular 
sides  or  too  many  geometrical  walks  will  be  produced. 

Ecpnomy  of  space  may  perhaps  be  obtained  by  the 
arrangement  of  the  ground  into  squares,  but  the  lots  with 
curved  borders  are  susceptible  of  greater  beauty  in  ornamen- 
tation. There  is  much  greater  ease  and  comfort  in  getting 
around  by  means  of  gracefully  curved  walks,  and  by  the 
blending  of  all  of  the  ornamentation  into  one  system  and 
under  one  management  the  whole  may  be  made  to  reach 
much  greater  beauty  than  if  each  lot  were  ornamented 
separately.  The  care  and  ornamentation  of  cemeteries 
should  be  under  one  management,  and  with  authority  vested 
by  the  condition  of  the  sale  of  the  lots  to  compel  each  owner 
to  keep  his  lot  in  a  neat  and  orderly  condition,  or  to  have 
it  done  at  his  expense  by  the  managers. 

All  the  planting  uiiist  be  done  within  certain  limits  and 
rules  be  made  and  carried  out  that  no  one  shall  plant  any 
tree,  shrub,  or  vine  that  shall  in  any  way  mar  the  beauty 
of  the  whole. 

Under  the  conditions  of  a  great  variety  of  soil  and 
a  large  number  of  people  of  different  ideas  of  the  beauty 


132  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

of  the  many  kinds  of  trees  and  other  plants  that  can  be 
nsed  with  success  in  cemeteries,  there  is  much  danger  of 
unsuitable  trees  being  planted,  and  the  superintendent  must 
be  a  man  of  large  experience  as  to  what  will  give  the  best 
satisfaction  under  varying  conditions  and  who  has  tact  for 
dealing  with  the  patrons  of  the  grounds. 

A  boundary  fence  is  often  necessary,  but  not  so  often  as 
is  generally  supposed,  for  almost  everywhere,  except  in  the 
extreme  country  districts,  animals  are  obliged  by  law  to  be 
kept  within  proper  enclosure,  and  when  driven  along  the 
roadway  to  be  kept  as  far  as  possible  within  the  road  limits, 
and  the  grounds  can  be  made  more  beautiful  if  the  fence 
is  dispensed  with  altogether.  If  one  must  be  put  up  let  it 
be  a  simple  gas-pipe  or  wire  fence  painted  green.  Near 
large  cities,  where  more  or  less  injury  is  done  by  irresponsi- 
ble or  vicious  people,  the  fence  becomes  a  necessary  pro- 
tection. 

No  fences,  hedges  around  the  lots,  or  other  unnatural 
obstruction  to  the  view  of  the  whole  grounds  should  be 
allowed,  but  in  the  arrangement  of  the  general  ornamental 
features  secluded  and  quiet  beauty  should  predominate. 

The  more  distinctly  graceful  and  ornamental  trees  and 
shrubs  should  be  used  in  preference  to  the  sturdy  and  grand 
trees,  unless  the  extent  of  the  grounds  is  very  great,  when 
the  broad-spreading  oak,  chestnut,  hemlock,  and  white  pine 
may  be  used. 

For  directions  for  the  care  of  the  ornamental  features  of 
the  cemetery,  i.e.,  the  lawn,  walks,  and  drives,  trees, 
shrubs,  and  plants,  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  suggestions 
and  rules  laid  down  in  Chapters  III  to  VI. 

An  abundance  of  water  is  an  absolute  necessity  for  suc- 
cess in  cemetery  decoration,  and  service-pipes  with  faucets 


PARKS,   PUBLIC   SQUARES,   SCHOOL-YARDS,   ETC.        1  33 

at  frequent  intervals  should  be  provided  if  a  supply  of 
running  water  can  be  obtained,  for  the  best  growth  of  lawn, 
shrubs,  or  plants  cannot  be  obtained,  especially  in  time  of 
drouth,  without  its  frequent  use.  If  the  supply  of  water 
is  sufficient,  sprinklers  should  be  kept  playing  on  some  part 
of  the  lawns  all  the  time  during  extreme  dry  weather.  The 
quiet  lakelet,  the  rippling  brook,  and  the  fountain  are 
features  that  are  especially  appropriate  for  cemetery  decora- 
tion. 

Renovating  Old  Cemeteries. 

Many  of  the  old  cemeteries  of  the  country  are  of  especial 
historic  interest,  as  they  often  contain  the  only  records  to 
be  found  of  much  of  our  history,  written  on  the  tombstones 
found  therein,  and  every  effort  should  be  made  to  save  them 
from  oblivion  and  make  them  pleasant  features  of  our  sur- 
roundings. 

Not  having  been  laid  out  in  any  formal  style  with  walks, 
drives,  etc.,  most  of  them  present  very  favorable  conditions 
for  renovation  to  at  least  neatness  and  some  show  of  quiet 
beauty.  There  are  generally  no  boundary-stones  to  mark 
each  lot,  and  the  best  and  simplest  way  to  produce  beauti- 
ful results  is  to  level  down  all  mounds  and  projections  with 
sharp  spades,  fill  up  all  depressions  with  good  soil,  and 
make  tbe  surface  a  smooth  and  green  lawn.  After  levelling 
and  smoothing  up  the  surface  a  dressing  of  fine  rich  com- 
post or  fertilizer  should  be  given  and  an  abundance  of  fine 
lawn  grass-seed  be  sown  and  raked  in.  The  headstones 
should  then  be  placed  in  position,  cleaning,  repairing,  and 
relettering  such  as  are  becoming  obscure.  The  moss  and 
lichens  which  indicate  their  age,  however,  should  not  be 
destroyed  if  it  can  be  avoided.  The  trees,  shrubs,  and 


134  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

plants  found  growing  in  such  cemeteries  are  often  in  a  sad 
state  of  neglect  and  need  much  care  and  attention.  They 
should  he  treated  in  accordance  with  the  methods  described 
in  Chapter  VII  on  renovating  old  places,  to  which  the 
reader  is  referred  for  suggestions.  A  few  large  spreading 
trees  well  cared  for  add  much  to  the  impressiveness  of  the 
scene,  while  large  numbers  of  imperfectly  grown  specimens 
only  invites  neglect,  and  offers  no  attractions  to  those  who 
wish  to  stroll  about  the  resting-place  of  their  ancestors  or 
study  the  history  of  past  generations. 

Many  of  these  old  cemeteries  are  located  in  the  very  heart 
of  thriving,  hustling  cities  or  villages,  and  while  there  are 
many  sacred  associations  connected  with  the  places,  the 
noise  and  bustle  of  the  town  together  with  the  inappropri- 
ateness  of  the  location  make  it  desirable  and  proper  that 
they  should  be  removed  to  other  locations  with  more  quiet 
and  peaceful  surroundings. 

In  this  work  every  feature  of  the  old  grounds  should  be 
preserved  as  far  as  possible.  The  headstones  should  be  set 
carefully  in  the  same  relative  position  in  which  they  stood 
before  being  moved,  and  when  so  much  is  to  be  gained  by 
removal  no  sensible  person  should  object  to  what  is  a  step 
in  the  direction  of  true  honor  and  respect  for  our  beloved 
dead. 

Any  place  that  is  beautiful,  quiet,  and  peaceful  will  have 
its  influence  on  our  hearts  for  good,  and  especially  when  in 
connection  with  so  sacred  a  place,  but  the  noisy  street  for- 
bids any  such  influence,  and  the  sooner  these  old  cemeteries 
are  moved  to  better  surroundings  and  kept  in  proper  con- 
dition the  better,  and  the  friends  of  the  loved  dead  should 
rejoice  that  such  conditions  can  be  provided. 


FIG.  70. — TYPICAL  CITY  STREET  WITHOUT  TUBES. 
(From  the  Tree  planting  Association  of  New  York  City.) 

(To  face  page  134.) 


CHAPTER  X. 

DESCRIPTION   OF   TREES. 

IN  this  chapter  is  given  a  brief  description  of  the  most 
valuable  and  beautiful  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants,  and  an 
effort  will  be  made  to  point  out  in  as  few  words  as  possible 
any  peculiarities  they  possess  or  special  treatment  they  may 
require  for  their  most  successful  growth. 

For  convenience  of  reference  they  are  arranged  in  the 
following  groups: 

1.  Street-  or  avenue-trees. 

2.  Upright  or  round-headed  lawn-trees. 

3.  "Weeping  trees. 

4.  Trees  with  fine  or  cut  foliage. 

5.  Trees  with  colored  foliage. 

6.  Evergreen  trees. 

7.  Ornamental  shrubs. 

8.  Climbing  vines. 

9.  Hedge-plants. 

10.  Hardy  herbaceous  plants. 

11.  Ornamental  grasses. 

12.  Bedding-plants. 

13.  Subtropical  plants. 

14.  Aquatic  plants. 

15.  Hardy  ferns. 

135 


136  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

Street-  or  Avenue-trees.* 

Nothing  adds  so  much  to  the  beauty  and  comfort  of  our 
streets  and  roadways,  especially  in  the  summer,  as  well- 
grown  trees  on  both  sides,  and  we  find  many  towns  and 
cities  throughout  our  country  noted  for  the  large  number 
and  beauty  of  their  street-trees. 

The  following  list  includes  those  best  suited  for  this  pur- 
pose : 

Elm,  American.  Ash,  White. 

Slippery.  Oak,  Red. 
"       European.  "      Scarlet. 

Maple,  Sugar.  Chestnut,  American. 

Silver.  Hickory,  White. 

Walnut,  Black.  Tulip-tree. 

AMERICAN  OR  WHITE  ELM  (  Ulmus  Americana),  Fig.  72. 
— This  is  unquestionably  the  finest  street  or  avenue  shade- 
tree  in  the  world.  Its  high  arching  branches  spreading 
gracefully  over  the  lawn,  drive,  walk,  or  roadway  give  an 

*  The  appended  list  of  trees  is  offered  by  the  Tree-planting  Asso- 
ciation of  New  York  City  as  being  the  most  suitable  to  select  from  for 
growth  in  that  city. 

Norway  Maple.  Tulip-tree   or    Tulip  Poplar  (Li- 
Sugar-maple.  riodendron  till ipif era). 

Silver  Maple.  Balsam- poplar. 

Lombard y  Poplar. 

American  White  Elm.  Carolina  Poplar  or  Cottonwood. 
Scotch  Elm. 

Pin-oak.  American  Linden  (or  Basswood). 

Red  Oak.  Lime  (or  European  Linden). 

American  White  Ash.  Nettle-tree  (Hackberry). 

Oriental  Plane-tree. 

American  Sweet-chestnut.  Sweet-gum  (or  Liquidambar). 

Common  Horse-chestnut.  American    Plane-tree  (Buttonball 
Hardy  Catalpa  (Catalpa  speciosa).          or  Sycamore). 

If  the  Ailanthus  is  desired  for  planting,  use  only  pistillate  trees,  as 
they  give  no  unpleasant  odor. 


FIG.  71. — A  WELL-DECORATED  CITY  STREET, 
(From  the  Tree-planting  Association  of  New  York  City.) 

(To face  page  136.) 


DESCRIPTION   OF  TREES.  13? 

abundant  shade,  and  yet  a  chance  for  air  to  circulate  freely 
under  its  branches.  It  varies  greatly  in  form,  from  the 
broad  round  head  to  the  very  upright  and  strict  vase  form, 
all  of  them,  however,  assuming  more  or  less  the  graceful 
arching  growth. 

It  grows  to  the  greatest  perfection,  in  a  deep,  moist, 
alluvial  soil  and  is  very  easily  transplanted.  It  is  often 
taken  from  the  swamp  or  pasture  and  transplanted  to  the 
open  lawn  or  roadside  with  success,  though  nursery -grown 
trees  if  tall  and  clean  with  the  branches  10  to  12  feet  from 
the  ground  are  more  satisfactory. 

In  training  a  young  tree  a  forked  growth  should  be 
avoided,  Fig.  24,  and  a  single  leading  shoot  encouraged 
with  lateral  branches  established  at  intervals  on  opposite 
sides  of  the  main  trunk,  as  in  Fig.  18.  If  allowed  to 
make  the  forked  growth,  they  are  certain  sooner  or  later 
to  be  split  down  by  the  weight  of  snow  or  force  of  storms. 
This  should  receive  especial  attention  with  trees  taken  from 
the  woods  or  roadsides,  and  cut  back  to  the  "  bean-pole  " 
condition,  as  is  often  practised,  and  all  of  the  lateral 
shoots  be  kept  headed  back  until  the  leader  has  full  con- 
trol, as  in  Fig.  23. 

SLIPPERY-ELM  ( Ulmus  fulver). — This  species  is  of  a 
broader  growth  with  larger  leaves,  but  not  quite  the  grace- 
ful form  of  the  white  elm,  nor  is  it  quite  so  large,  but  a 
valuable  tree  under  some  conditions. 

EUROPEAN  ELM  (  Ulmus  campestris). — More  upright  and 
compact  than  the  American  species,  and  valuable  where  a 
less  spreading  tree  is  desired.  All  of  the  elms  are  subject 
to  the  attack  of  the  elm-beetle,  canker-worm,  the  elm-scale, 
and  other  insects,  and  need  close  attention  to  prevent  their 
being  seriously  injured.  See  chapter  on.  insects,  page  261. 


138 


LANDSCAPE  GARDENING. 


SUGAK-MAPLE  (Acer  saccharinum). — Perhaps  no  tree  is 
so  largely  planted  for  streets  and  roadways  as  this,  and  it 
has  many  valuable  qualities.  It  is  clean,  upright,  easily 
transplanted,  and  grows  rapidly,  but  is  somewhat  subject 
to  disease  and  the  attack  of  the  maple-tree  borer,  maple- 
louse,  and  other  insects  and  fungous  pests  which  have  often 
destroyed  large  trees  and  broken  into  many  a  fine  avenue 
of  stately  growth. 

SILVER  MAPLE  (A.  dasycarpum).  Fig.  73. — This  rapid- 


FIG.  73. — SILVER  MAPLE  (Acer  dasycarpum). 

growing  tree  is  being  largely  planted  in  many  places.  It 
is  a  clean  tree  of  great  beauty,  and  thus  far  has  shown  no 
tendency  to  disease  or  the  attack  of  insects.  The  tendency 
it  has  of  forming  several  main  forked  branches  must  be 


FIG.  72. — AMERICAN  ELM  (  U.  Americana). 

(To  face  page  138.) 


DESCRIPTION  OF  TREES. 


139 


overcome  by  heading  in  all  but  the  central  leading  branch, 
until  it  has  become  well  established,  as  with  the  elms,  shown 
in  Fig.  23.  This  species  thrives  on  all  kinds  of  soil,  but 
makes  the  best  growth  in  a  rather  moist,  deep  soil. 

WHITE  ASH  (Fraxinus  Americana). — In  growth  this 
tree  is  very  much  like  the  sugar-maple  with  a  little  less  of 
the  conical  form.  The  foliage  is  of  a  dark,  rich  color  and 
free  from  insects  and  fungous  pests.  It  is  rather  easily 
broken  down  by  ice  and  wind-storms,  and  requires  a  heavy 
soil  for  its  best  development. 

BED  OAK  (Onerous  rubra). — Of  the  oaks  this  and  the 
next  species  are  the  best  for  street  decoration,  but  they  can 
only  be  used  along  narrow  roadways  by  training  the 


FIG.  74.— RED  OAK  PRUNED  TO  MAKE  BRANCH  HIGH. 

branches  high.  This  is  best  done  by  keeping  the  lower 
branches  clipped  in,  as  in  Fig.  74,  and  when  strong  main 
branches  have  been  formed  high  enough  to  be  above  all 


140  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

danger  of  striking  passing  teams  the  lateral  ones  may  be 
cut  away  entirely. 

SCARLET  OAK  (Quercus  tinctoria,  var.  coccinia). — Some- 
what like  the  red  oak  in  hahit  of  growth,  but  with  thinner 
and  more  deepy  lobed  leaves  and  producing  more  brilliant 
colors  in  autumn.  The  oaks  are  rather  slow  and  heavy  in 
growth,  but  when  they  become  well  established  are  especially 
desirable  on  account  of  their  long  life,  sturdiness,  and 
strength.  They  are  difficult  to  transplant  and  can  only  be 
moved »with  certainty  of  success  by  frequent  transplanting  in 
the  nursery.  To  prepare  an  oak  standing  in  the  field  for 
successful  transplanting,  a  trench  10  inches  to  1  foot  wide 
must  be  dug  about  the  tree  from  2  to  4  feet  from  the  trunk, 
according  to  size,  and  at  least  2  feet  deep.  This  trench 
should  be  filled  with  good  soil  to  encourage  the  development 
of  fine  fibrous  roots.  In  two  years'  time,  if  the  work  has 
been  well  done,  enough  fibrous  roots  will  be  formed  to 
render  transplanting  safe. 

AMERICAN  CHESTNUT  (Castanea  vesca,  var.  Americana). 
— This  tree  grows  to  the  greatest  perfection  in  many  sec- 
tions of  the  United  States,  and  in  soils  where  the  elm, 
maple,  ash,  and  oak  do  not  thrive.  It  is  free  from  disease 
and  the  attack  of  insects,  rapid  in  growth,  with  a  beautiful 
dark  green  foliage,  and  its  abundant  flowers  in  July 
make  it  an  attractive  feature  of  the  landscape.  Its  fruit, 
too,  is  valuable  and  might  be  made  a  source  of  some  profit 
if  properly  managed.  Like  the  oak,  it  is  difficult  to  trans- 
plant, and  it  has  the  same  tendency  to  branch  low  when 
planted  in  full  exposure,  but  these  objections  can  be 
remedied  in  the  same  manner  as  with  the  oak,  and  its  broad- 
spreading  habit  with  proper  treatment  would  make  it  a 
close  rival  of  the  American  elm. 


DESCRIPTION   OF   TREES.  141 

WHITE  HICKORY  OR  SHAGBARK  (Carya  alba). — On  very 
heavy  soils  this  tree  may  become  a  very  good  street-tree,  but 
on  light  land  it  would  be  of  no  value.  Its  habit  of  growth 
is  tall  and  upright,  with  bright  green  foliage,  and  is 
generally  free  from  insect  or  fungous  attack.  It  is  even 
more  difficult  to  transplant  than  the  oak  or  chestnut,  but 
it  may  be  started  from  seed  where  it  is  to  grow  or  be  pre- 
pared for  transplanting  in  the  nursery  or  fields,  as  is  the 
oak  or  chestnut. 

BLACK  WALNUT  (Jnglans  nigra). — No  grander  tree  can 
be  found  among  those  native  of  the  United  States  than  the 
black  walnut  as  occasionally  seen  in  the  Eastern  States  and 
very  frequently  in  the  West,  but  it  is  not  often  seen  planted 
in  avenues.  It  is  difficult  to  transplant  and  requires  a 
rather  heavy  soil  for  its  best  growth,  but  if  properly  treated, 
i.e.,  like  the  oak  and  chestnut,  will  make  very  beautiful 
street- trees.  It  is  rather  slow  in  growth,  and  requires  a 
little  care  to  prevent  the  formation  of  low-forked  main 
branches. 

TULIP-TREE  (Liriodendron  tulipifera). — This  is  one  of 
our  most  beautiful  trees,  and  if  it  could  be  more  easily 
transplanted  would  be  more  largely  used  as  a  street-  or 
avenue-tree  than  it  now  is.  The  fibrous  roots  of  this  tree 
are  very  succulent  and  easily  injured  by  extreme  pressure 
or  by  exposure  to  drying  winds  or  sun,  and  the  greatest 
care  must  be  exercised  in  transplanting  it.  If  transplanted 
frequently  in  the  nursery,  it  may  be  safely  moved  until  it 
reaches  the  growth  of  3  or  4  inches  in  diameter;  otherwise 
only  young  trees  should  be  used,  and  more  careful  protec- 
tion be  given  them  against  injury  than  would  be  required 
for  larger  trees  of  other  species. 

Many  other  species  of  trees  might  be  used  for  street  or 


142  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

avenue  decoration  under  some  conditions,  but  the  above  list 
includes  the  best  for  general  purposes.  Scarcely  one  tenth 
of  our  roadways,  and  probably  much  less,  are  adorned  with 
ornamental  trees;  even  in  many  of  the  thriving  towns  and 
cities  little  attention  is  given  to  this  matter,  and  the  author 
would  urge  the  use  of  more  variety  of  species  and  less  of 
the  stereotyped  kinds,  like  the  elm  and  maple. 


Upright  or  Round-headed  Trees. 

The  following  list,  while  not  including  all  the  trees 
desirable  under  varying  conditions,  yet  contains  the  greater 
number  of  the  most  beautiful  and  especially  those  that  will 
most  certainly  thrive  under  ordinary  care.  Many  of  the 
very  new  or  rare  varieties  are  not  included  for  the  reason 
that  little  is  known  of  their  real  value,  and  it  is  almost  the 
universal  experience  that  a  large  percentage  of  the  new  in- 
troductions fail  to  realize  the  promise  of  their  early  growth 
soon  developing  some  weakness,  disease,  or  undesirable 
features,  and  their  value  cannot  be  determined  until  they 
have  been  tested  for  many  years  under  various  conditions 
of  soil  and  exposure. 

LIST   OF    UPRIGHT   OR   HOUND-HEADED   TREES. 

Maple,  English.  Chestnut,  Horse. 

"        Norway.  l<      Red-flowered. 

"        Sycamore.  Shadbush. 

"        Schwerdler's.  Birch,  European  White. 
Reitenbach's.  "       Sweet  or  Cherry. 

"        Red.  "       American  White  or  Gray. 

"        Tartarian.  Catalpa. 

"        Japanese.  Cherry,  Flowering. 


DESCRIPTION    OF    TREES. 


U3 


Redbud. 
White-fringe. 
Dogwood,  Flowering. 
Hawthorn,  English. 
Golden-chain. 
Beech,  American. 
"       European. 
Ash,  European. 

"     Aucuba-leaved. 
Locust,  Honey. 
Coffee  tree,  Kentucky. 
China-tree. 
Plane-tree. 
Poplar,  or  Abele  Silver. 

Bolley's. 

"       Black  or  Italian. 
Peach  and  Plum,  Flowering. 
Apple,  Flowering. 

"      Chinese. 
Sweet-gum. 
Magnolia,  Umbrella. 
"          Cucumber. 
Soulange's. 
"          Swamp. 
"          Showy. 
Mulberry. 


Box-elder. 
Cork-tree,  Chinese. 
Locust,  Yellow. 
Willow,  White. 
"         Golden. 
"        Red- twigged. 
Basswood  or  Linden,  American. 
"  "       "       European. 

"  "       "       White-leaved. 

Mountain  Ash,  American. 
"  "      European. 

"  "      Oak-leaved. 

Hop-tree. 
Oak,  White. 
"     Red. 
"     Scarlet. 
"     Swamp  White. 
"     Pin. 
"     English. 
"     Fern -leaved. 
"     Variegated. 
"     Purple-leaved. 
"     Pyramidal. 
"     Chestnut. 
Elm,  Scotch. 


Larch,  European. 

ENGLISH  MAPLE  (Acer  campestris). — A  slow-growing 
maple  forming  a  compact  small  tree,  with  corky  ridges  on 
the  bark  and  handsome  foliage. 

NORWAY  MAPLE  (A.  platanoides). — While  young  this 
tree  resembles  somewhat  the  sugar-maple,  bat  as  it  grows 
older  it  takes  on  a  more  rounded,  massive  head.  The 
leaves  are  broad  and  thiu,  palmatelj  lobed,  and  change  to 
a  light  golden  color  in  the  autumn.  Its  large  flowers  and 
broad-winged  fruit  are  also  ornamental.  It  is  easily  trans- 
planted and  thrives  in  ordinarily  good  soil. 


144  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

SCHWERDLER'S  MAPLE  (A.  p.,  var.  Schiverdlerii).— 
During  the  spring  and  early  summer  the  young  leaves  of 
this  tree  are  beautifully  colored  with  purplish  crimson, 
but  they  soon  change  to  a  dark  bronze  green.  It  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  and  ornamental  of  the  maples  during 
this  early  growth. 

REITENBACH'S  MAPLE  (A.  p.,  var.  Reitenbacliii). — 
This  is  not  quite  so  beautifully  colored  in  the  spring  as 
the  last,  but  retains  its  color  later  in  the  season.  Also 
very  valuable. 

SYCAMORE  MAPLE  (A.  pseudo-platanus). — A  handsome 
broad-spreading  tree,  similar  in  form  to  the  last,  with  large, 
thick,  dark  green  leaves.  It  is  rapid  in  growth  and  free 
from  the  attack  of  insects  and  fungous  pests.  It  is  rather 
heavy  and  coarse  in  growth  and  is  not  as  beautiful  as  either 
the  sugar  or  Norway  maple. 

RED  OR  SCARLET  MAPLE  (A.  rubruni). — Our  common 
swamp  or  red  maple,  found  growing  throughout  our  Eastern, 
middle,  and  Western  States,  where  it  gives  the  most  brilliant 
coloring  to  the  landscape  by  its  bright  red  flowers  and  fruit 
in  the  spring  and  the  variously  colored  leaves  in  the 
autumn.  It  grows  best  in  rather  moist  locations,  is  easily 
transplanted,  and  free  from  disease. 

SILVER  MAPLE  (A.  dasycarpum}. — See  Avenue-  or 
Street-trees. 

TARTARIAN  MAPLE  (A.  Tartarica). — A  small  tree  with 
small  cut  and  lobed  leaves,  somewhat  like  those  of  the  gray 
birch,  making  an  interesting  and  beautiful  tree  when  in 
flower  or  in  fruit  and  again  by  its  brilliant  coloring  in  the 
autumn, 

JAPANESE  MAPLES  (A.  polymorplmm  and  Japonicum}. 
— These  are  small-growing  trees  possessing  a  great  variety 


DESCRIPTION    OF   TREES.  145 

of  forms  and  coloring  of  foliage.  They  are  very  difficult 
to  propagate  and  therefore  are  expensive,  but  in  deep  warm 
soil  a  little  sheltered  from  extreme  drying  winds  they 
thrive  well  and  make  most  beautiful  ornaments.  The  first- 
named  species  has  produced  the  most  varying  forms,  some 
of  which  have  finely  cut  fern-like  leaves,  and  of  varying 


FIG.  75.— JAPANESE  MAPLE  (A.  polymorphuiri). 

colors  from  dark  green  through  many  stages  of  variegation 
to  the  darkest  red  or  purple. 

Among  the  best  of  these  are: 
Red-leaved  Japanese  maple  (A.  p.,  var.  sanguineum).    Fig. 

75. 

Purple-leaved  '*  ''        (A.  p.,  var.  atropurpurum). 

Purple  cut-leaved  weeping  Japanese  maple  (A.  p.,  var.  di$- 
§ectum  atropurpuruni). 


146  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

Green   cut-leaved   weeping   Japanese  maple    (A.  p.,   var. 

pinnatifidum). 
Kose-variegated  cut-leaved  weeping  Japanese  maple  (A. p., 

var.  dissectum  rosco-pictis}. 
Rose-rnargined  Japanese  maple  (A.  p.,  var.   roseo-margi- 

nata). 
Plain-leaved  Japanese  maple  (A.  p.). 

"        "  "      (A.  p.,  var.  Jaconita). 

Golden- "  "  "      (A.  Japonica,  var.  aurea). 

Crisped-"  "  "      (A.  Japonica,  var.  crespa). 

HORSE-CHESTNUT  (^Esculus  Hippocastanum] . — This  tree 
possesses  much  beauty  in  its  compact  regular  form  and  dark 
green  foliage,  but  it  is  especially  beautiful  when  in  blossom 
with  its  large,  compact  panicles  of  white  and  rose-colored 
flowers.  It  is  easily  grown  from  seed,  readily  transplanted, 
hardy,  and  succeeds  on  a  variety  of  soils. 

RED-FLOWERED  HORSE-CHESTNUT  (^E.  H.,  var.  rubi- 
cunda). — Although  not  quite  so  conspicuous  a  tree  as  the 
last,  it  has  more  of  the  quiet  beauty,  with  its  dark  green 
foliage  and  light  red  flowers. 

SERVICE-BERRY  OR  SHADBUSH  (Amelanchia  Canadensis). 
— A  native  tree  of  small  size  that  produces  the  most  beauti- 
ful mass  of  pure  white  flowers  very  early  in  the  spring 
before  any  but  the  fruit-trees  are  in  bloom.  It  is  perfectly 
hardy,  but  is  liable  to  be  attacked  by  the  apple-borer 
and  must  have  frequent  attention  to  prevent  injury  by 
this  insect.  It  succeeds  best  in  rather  sheltered  loca- 
tions, and  "though  a  native"  deserves  much  more  fre- 
quent use. 

CANOE-BIRCH  (Betula  papyracea). — There  is  scarcely  a 
more  beautiful  or  easily  grown  tree  than  the  canoe-birch. 
It  succeeds  in  nearly  all  kinds  of  soil  and  is  transplanted 


DESCRIPTION   OF   TREES.  147 

without  much  difficulty  if  trees  cf  too  large  size  are  not 
attempted,  those  of  1  to  1J  inches  in  diameter  being  the 
best.  It  is  especially  beautiful  when  planted  among  ever- 
greens or  in  contrast  with  trees  and  shrubs  with  bright 
yellow  or  red  shoots  for  winter  effect. 

EUROPEAN  WHITE  BIRCH  (Betula  alba). — Somewhat 
similar  to  canoe-birch,  with  smaller  foliage  and  perhaps  a 
little  more  graceful  outline.  A  desirable  tree,  though  the 
cut-leaved  weeping  form  is  so  much  superior  that  it  is  not 
often  planted. 

SWEET  OR  CHERRY  BIRCH  (B.  lento). — Few  of  our  native 
trees  are  more  regular  or  graceful  in  outline  than  this 
species  when  grown  in  full  exposure,  but  it  being  a  common 
native  tree  and  producing  no  conspicuous  flowers  it  has 
not  received  the  attention  it  deserves.  Trees  from  the 
woods  or  roadside  are  difficult  to  transplant,  but  when  grown 
in  the  nursery  are  easily  transplanted.  They  succeed  best 
in  a  rather  moist  soil. 

AMERICAN  WHITE  OR  GRAY  BIRCH  (B.  populifolia). — A 
very  pretty  tree  when  grown  with  a  single  trunk  or  in  the 
group  or  clumps  it  so  naturally  makes.  It  is  easily  trans- 
planted while  small  and  grows  well  in  the  poorest  kinds  of 
soil.  In  transplanting  large  trees,  i.e.,  from  1  to  3  inches 
in  diameter,  the  trunk  should  be  cut  down  to  the  ground 
and  one  or  more  shoots  be  allowed  to  grow  as  desired. 
This  treatment  gives  a  vigorous  straight  growth  that  may 
be  put  into  any  shape  desired  and  the  growth  is  very  rapid. 

AMERICAN  CHESTNUT  (Castanea  Americana). — If  al- 
lowed to  grow  with  full  exposure,  this  will  make  a  very 
broad  round-headed  tree,  and  is  very  beautiful  upon  large 
grounds.  Description  and  treatment  for  transplanting  were 
given  under  Avenue-  or  Street-trees,  The  fruit  of  the. 


148 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


Spanish  and  Japanese  varieties  is  much  larger  but  not  of 
as  good  quality  as  that  of  the  American,  and  the  trees  are 
less  vigorous.  Improved  varieties  of  our  native  chestnut 
with  fruit  of  large  size  are  now  offered  and  established  trees 
are  sometimes  grafted  with  them  with  success.  The  smaller 
and  more  vigorous  the  stock  the  more  certain  the  success  in 
grafting. 


FIG.  76.— CATALPA  SPECIOSA. 
CATALPA  (Catalpa  speciosa),  Fig.  70. — A  beautiful  tree 


DESCRIPTION    OF    TREES.  149 

of  subtropical  effect,  producing  very  large  heart-shaped 
leaves  and  large  panicles  of  flowers  after  nearly  all  other 
trees  have  bloomed.  It  is  not  quite  hardy  at  the  Xorth  and 
the  trees  should  not  be  transplanted  to  full  exposure  of  the 
lawn  until  they  reach  2  to  3  inches  in  diameter  to  be  most 
successful. 

FLOWERIXG  CHERRIES  (Primus,  sp.). — Several  of  the 
flowering  cherries  are  offered  by  nurserymen.  They  are 
very  beautiful  for  a  few  days  when  in  bloom,  but  the 
flowers  soon  fall  off  and  the  trees  are  short-lived.  If 
planted  in  a  light  soil  and  grown  slowly,  they  will  live  in  a 
fairly  good  condition  much  longer  than  in  a  heavy  or  very 
rich  soil.  As  they  grow  rapidly,  they  may  be  used  tem- 
porarily, until  more  permanent  trees  have  reached  a  good 
growth,  when  they  can  be  removed. 

KEDBUD  OR  JUDAS-TREE  (Cercis  Canadensis). — This  is 
a  very  beautiful  small  tree,  often  taking  the  shrub  form, 
producing  an  abundance  of  bright  pink  flowers  before  the 
leaves  appear.  The  latter  are  of  a  very  dark  rich  green 
color  that  is  ornamental  all  summer.  If  grown  too  rapidly 
while  young,  it  often  winter-kills,  like  many  of  the  trees 
coming  from  the  middle  and  Southern  States,  and  succeeds 
better  in  the  lawn  than  if  planted  in  a  rich  border;  enough 
plant-food,  however,  must  be  used  to  produce  a  fairly 
vigorous  growth. 

WHITE-FRIXGE  (ChionantUus  Virginicus),  Fig.  77.— 
Although  generally  grown  in  the  form  of  a  large  shrub, 
with  a  little  care  this  may  be  made  to  produce  a  single 
trunk  by  pinching  or  cutting  off  all  lateral  buds  and  shoots 
on  the  main  trunk.  It  is  very  beautiful,  with  lace-like 
fringe  of  flowers  hanging  from  its  small  branches,  and,  like 


150  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

the   redbud,  requires  some  care  to  prevent   an   excessive 
growth,  which  would  make  it  liable  to  winter-killing. 


FIG.  77.— WHITE-FRINGE  (ChionantJius  Virginicus), 

FLOWERING  DOGWOOD  (Cormts  Florida),  Fig.  78. — This 
small  tree  requires  some  protection  from  the  hot  sun  and 
drying  winds  of  winter  to  reach  its  greatest  perfection.  In 
full  exposure  the  large  white  bracts  about  the  flowers,  the 
ornamental  part  of  the  blossoms,  are  often  injured,  but 
under  the  shade  of  larger  trees,  on  the  north  slope  of  a  hill 
or  in  the  shade  of  buildings  and  in  rather  moist  soil,  it 
becomes  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  our  native  small  trees. 
The  pink  or  red  form  of  this  species  is  also  very  beautiful 
and  valuable. 

ENGLISH  HAWTHORN  (Cratcegus  oxycantha),  Fig.  79. — 
The  double-flowering  hawthorns  are  among  the  most  beau- 
tiful of  the  small  trees.  The  flowers  are  very  brilliant 


DESCRIPTION   OF   TREES. 


151 


and  abundant  and  the  foliage  is  of  a  beautiful  dark  green 
color,  bat,  like  all  the  rosaceous  plants,  the  flowers  are  of 


FIG.  78. — FLOWERING  DOGWOOD  (Cornus  Florida). 

short  duration.  The  tree  is  subject  to  the  attack  of  both 
the  flat-  and  round-headed  apple-borers  and  the  leaves  to 
several  species  of  fungi,  for  treatment  of  which  see 
chapter  on  Insects  and  Fungi.  The  varieties  known  as 
Paul's  new  double,  white  and  red,  are  among  the  best. 

GOLDEN-CHAIN  OR  LABURNUM  (Cytisus  Laburnum). — 
Where  this  half-hardy  shrub  or  small  tree  succeeds,  it  is  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  yellow-flowering  trees  in  existence. 
It  must  be  grown  slowly  in  the  lawn  or  where  the  roots  of 
other  trees  keep  the  soil  in  a  rather  poor  condition,  although 
enough  plant-food  must  be  applied  to  produce  a  fair  amount 
of  wood. 

AMERICAN  BEECH  (Fagus  ferruginea). — This  is  one  of 


152 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


the  finest  American  trees,  but  requires  &  cool  moist  soil  and 
protection  from  the  hot  sun.  It  is  so  difficult  to  transplant 
that  it  is  not  often  seen  in  cultivated  grounds,  and  is  rather 


FIG.  79.— ENGLISH  HAWTIIOHN  (Crataigus  oxycantlius). 

objectionable  as  a  lawn- tree  on  account  of  the  leaves,  which 
adhere  to  the  branches  nearly  all  Avinter.  Under  some  con- 
ditions on  a  large  place  and  among  groups  of  evergreens  the 
very  light  brown  or  almost  white  winter  foliage  produces 
pleasing  effects, 

EUROPEAN  BEECH  (F.  sylvatica). — Bather  more  graceful 
in  growth   than  oar  native  species  and  more  easily  trans- 


DESCRIPTION   OP  TREES. 
^******^^ 

planted,  but  the  winter  foliage" 


quite  so  ornamental.      I'liis  species  "lias  produced  mam 
teresting  and  beautiful  forms,  which  will 
their  proper  heading. 

EUROPEAN  ASH  (Fraxinus  excelsa). — This  somewhat  re- 
sembles our  native  ash  in  form  of  tree  and  color  of  its 
foliage;  it  is  easily  transplanted  and  many  of  its  varieties 
possess  considerable  value. 

AUCUBA-LEAVED  ASH  (F.  Americana,  var.  aucubcefolia). 
— A  beautiful  tree  with  variegated  foliage,  but  not  so 
vigorous  in  growth  as  the  common  form.  Valuable  to  plant 
in  contrast  with  trees  of  purple  or  dark  green  foliage. 

HONEY-LOCUST  (Gleditscliia  triacantlios). — A  large  tree 
with  beautiful  foliage  and  large,  often  branched  thorns, 
which  cover  more  or  less  the  main  branches  and  sometimes 
the  trunk.  It  varies  much  in  shape,  sometimes  making 
very  irregular  growth,  but  it  can  be  trained  to  a  good  form 
by  a  little  judicious  pruning.  Compact,  finely  branched 
trees  should  be  selected  if  planted  on  the  lawn. 

KENTUCKY  COFFEE-TREE  (Gymnodadus  Canadensis). — 
A  hardy  native  tree  with  feathery  compound  leaves,  large 
stiff  branches,  and  large  panicles  of  flowers.  Valuable  for 
its  subtropical  effect. 

CHINA-WOOD  (Kcelreuteria  paniculata). — A  hardy  im- 
ported tree  with  good  foliage  and  large  panicles  of  yellowish 
white  flowers  in  July.  It  is  valuable  on  account  of  its  large 
masses  of  flowers  opening  so  late  in  the  season. 

PLANE-TREE  OR  BUTTONWOOD  (Platanusoccidentalis).— 
Were  it  not  for  the  disease  which  attacks  this  tree  it  would 
be  among  the  iiiiMjJijiiiilili  fill'  'TiTiTmii  Til  in  large  places 
or  roadsides.  l£s  most  conspicuous  features  are  the  white 
and  olive  patches  of  its  very  smoothxfcKfnk  and  branches 


154  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING, 

caused  by  the  annual  scaling  off  of  the  outer  bark.  A 
blight,  however,  attacks  the  leaves  in  the  early  summer, 
which  causes  many  of  them  to  wither  and  fall  off,  but  are 
followed  by  perfect  foliage  again  later  in  the  season.  As  a 
result  of  this  disease  the  branches  become  weakened  and  are 
easily  broken  off  by  wind  and  storm.  It  requires  a  moist 
rich  soil  and  some  very  beautiful  specimens  are  found  grow- 
ing in  river-bottom  lands  in  many  sections  of  the  country. 

POPLARS. — Very  few,  if  any,  of  the  poplars  are  of  any 
value  for  permanent  growth.  They  are  very  rapid  in 
growth,  easily  transplanted,  possessing  many  varying  forms 
and  colors,  and  useful  where  immediate  effect  is  desired. 

SILVER  POPLAR  OR  ABELE  (Populus  alba). — This  very 
rapid  growing  tree  is  especially  conspicuous  when  the  silvery 
nnder-surface  of  the  leaves  are  turned  up  by  the  wind.  It 
has  the  fault,  however,  of  throwing  up  suckers  from  the 
roots  and  is  sometimes  attacked  by  insects.  To  prevent  the 
suckers  from  gaining  strength  and  becoming  troublesome, 
they  should  be  pulled  up,  when  the  shoots  separate  from 
the  root,  and  not  be  cut  off  at  the  surface.  If  cut  off  at 
the  surface  of  the  ground,  the  whole  root  system  remains 
perfect  and  the  buds  are  ready  to  start  again  with  renewed 
vigor. 

BOLLEY'S  SILVER  POPLAR  (P.  alba,  var.  Bolleana). — 
This  tree  is  of  a  more  close  and  spiry  growth  than  the  last, 
with  leaves  of  a  darker  color  above  and  equally  silvery 
beneath,  and  though  not  fully  tested  under  all  conditions 
promises  to  be  more  valuable  than  the  common  Abele. 

BLACK  POPLAR  (P.  nigra). — A  most  rapid  growing  tree 
of  a  pyramidal  growth  and  dark  green  leaves.  Trees  started 
from  cuttings  in  1874  are  now  more  than  2J-  feet  in 
diameter  and  60  feet  high.  It  has,  however,  developed  a 


DESCRIPTION    OF  TREES.  155 

very  serious  fault  in  that  the  lower  leaves  are  attacked  by 
a  leaf-rust.  As  this  disease  is  confined  largely  to  the  lower 
leases,  there  is  no  difficulty  in  checking  it,  if  not  wholly 
preventing,  by  spraying  with  the  Bordeaux  mixture. 

FLOWERING  PEACHES  AND  PLUMS  (Prunus  sp.). — Xoth- 
ing  can  be  more  beautiful  than  the  double-flowering  peaches 
and  plums,  but  the  flowers  are  of  short  duration  and  the 
trees  subject  to  all  the  diseases  and  insects  that  attack  the 
fruit-bearing  trees,  and  are  therefore  not  largely  planted. 
They  begin  to  bloom,  however,  in  a  few  years  from  planting 
and  where  the  expense  can  be  aiforded  may  be  planted 
temporarily  to  occupy  the  space  until  more  permanent  or 
slower-growing  trees  can  give  the  desired  effect  of  shade  or 
ornament. 

FLOWERING  APPLES. — While  the  blossoms  of  the  apples 
are  of  short  duration,  like  those  of  the  plum,  peach,  and 
cherry,  the  tree  is  hardy  and  lasts  a  much  longer  time. 
Among  the  best  of  these  are: 

PARKMAN'S  DOUBLE-FLOWERING  (Pyrus  malus,  var. 
Parkmanii). — This  is  a  rather  dwarf  tree  with  rich  dark 
foliage  and  producing  beautiful  bright  rose-colored  double 
flowers. 

CHINESE  DOUBLE-FLOWERING  APPLE  (P.  w.,  var.  flore 
roseo-plena). — Flowers  rather  larger  and  more  showy  than 
the  last. 

LIQUID  AMBAR  OR  SWEET-GUM  TREE  (Liquidamba 
styracifolia). — A  most  beautiful  tree  of  regular  conical 
growth,  fine  dark  foliage  which  takes  on  a  beautiful  red 
and  yellow  color  in  the  autumn;  a  native  of  the  middle 
and  Southern  States,  but  proves  hardy  in  Xew  England. 

UMBRELLA-TREE  (Magnolia  tripetala). — Of  a  rather 
broad  irregular  form,  its  large  leaves,  often  nearly  2  feet 


156  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

long  by  8  inches  wide,  and  large  showy  white  flowers  make 
this  tree  a  conspicuous  object  on  the  lawn.  Like  the  tulip- 
tree  and  the  other  magnolias,  its  roots  are  soft  and  easily 
injured  and  must  be  treated  very  carefully  in  transplanting. 

CUCUMBER- TREE  (M.  acuminata). — A  very  fine  tree, 
pyramidal  in  form  and  producing  yellowish  fragrant  flowers 
in  considerable  abundance.  It  thrives  best  in  a  deep  warm 
soil. 

SOULANGE'S  MAGNOLIA  ( M.  Soulangeana),  Fig.  80. — This 
small  tree  is  the  most  beautiful,  most  hardy  and  useful  of 
the  magnolias,  the  large  cup-shaped  blossoms  of  white 
and  purplish  color  coming  before  the  leaves  making  it  a 
very  conspicuous  and  beautiful  lawn-tree. 

SHOWY  MAGNOLIA  (M.  speciosa). — Like  the  last,  but  with 
rather  smaller  and  lighter-colored  flowers  that  last  some- 
what longer. 

SWAMP-MAGNOLIA  (M.  glauca). — A  native  tree  found 
in  swampy  places  from  Maine  to  Georgia,  and  under  favor- 
able conditions  is  a  great  addition  to  our  list  of  small  trees. 
The  foliage  is  bright  green  above  and  whitish  beneath,  and, 
like  most  of  the  small  magnolias,  is  generally  grafted  on  the 
tripetala  stock.  When  grown  in  the  shade  of  other  trees, 
it  holds  its  foliage  nearly  all  winter. 

Some  others  of  the  numerous  species  and  varieties  of 
magnolias  succeed  under  favorable  conditions,  and  where 
they  thrive  nothing  gives  more  satisfaction. 

MULBERRY  (Morus  alba  and  rubra). — The  mulberry  is 
a  tree  of  good  form,  with  bright  green  foliage  that  is  orna- 
mental, and  many  persons  are  fond  of  the  fruit.  The  most 
hardy  of  the  fruit-bearing  and  perhaps  the  best  variety  is 
the  .new  American. 

BOX-ELDER  (Acer  negundo). — A  rather  interesting  tree 


FIG    80.  —  SOULANGE'S  MAGNOLIA  (M.  Soulangeana). 

(To  face  page  150.) 


DESCRIPTION    OF   TREES.  157 

with  ash-like  foliage  and  fruit  much  like  that  of  the  com- 
mon maples.  It  soon  takes  an  irregular  form,  is  easily 
broken  by  wind  or  ice,  and  is  rather  short-lived. 

CHINESE  CORK-TREE  (Pliellodendron  amurense). — A 
very  desirable  round-headed  tree  of  recent  introduction 
with  foliage  somewhat  like  the  black  walnut.  Thus  far  it 
has  proved  clean  and  free  from  insects  and  disease. 

YELLOW  LOCUST  (Robinia  pseudo-acacia). — Were  it  not 
that  this  tree  is  attacked  by  insects  which  injure  the 
branches,  stopping  their  growth  and  causing  the  growth  of 
suckers  from  the  roots,  it  would  be  a  great  addition  to  the 
list  of  beautiful  ornamental  trees.  Its  foliage  is  fine  and 
feathery,  of  a  rich  dark  green  color,  and  when  in  blossom 
we  have  no  more  beautiful  tree.  It  is  worthy  of  continued 
effort  to  find  a  remedy  or  preventive  for  the  injury  of 
insects,  and  it  has  been  suggested  that  by  spraying  the 
trunk  and  main  branches  with  Paris  green  and  water  or 
with  this  substance  in  the  Bordeaux  mixture,  in  the  spring 
and  early  summer,  this  injury  may  be  prevented. 

WILLOWS. — Like  the  poplars,  the  willows  are  easily 
propagated  by  cuttings  and  will  grow  in  almost  any  soil. 
They  grow  very  rapidly,  but  soon  reach  maturity  and  are 
not  of  much  value  for  permanent  growth.  Some  of  the 
weeping  varieties  are  graceful  and  very  ornamental  and  will 
be  described  under  the  head  of  Weeping  Trees. 

WHITE  WILLOW  (Salix  alba). — The  most  rapid  grower  of 
all  of  the  willows  and  often  used  to  hold  embankments  and 
the  soil  along  the  borders  of  ponds  and  streams  in  place. 
While  young  it  is  regular  in  form  and  ornamental,  but  as  it 
becomes  older  takes  a  more  irregular  growth  and  loses  much 
of  its  beauty. 

GOLDEN  WILLOW  (8.  a.,  var.  vitettina). — Of  the  same 


158  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

form  and  habit  of  the  white  willow  and  possessing  the  same 
faults,  but  its  golden  bark  in  winter  often  forms  a  beautiful 
feature  when  planted  among  canoe-birches,  red-twigged 
willows,  or  red  dogwoods. 

KED-TWIGGED  WILLOW  (S.  a.  vitellina,  var.  Britzensis). 
—This  is  a  comparatively  new  variety  with  red  twigs  which 
while  young  are  nearly  as  red  as  those  of  the  red  dogwood. 
It  has  not  been  widely  tested,  however. 

BASSWOOD  OR  AMERICAN  LINDEN  (Tilia  Americana}. 
— A  native  tree  of  some  value  for  ornamental  purposes.  It 
has  large,  dark  green  foliage  and  very  fragrant  white  flowers 
suspended  on  long-winged  peduncles  in  July.  It  makes  a 
large  tree  in  good  soil,  but  becomes  rather  irregular  as  it 
reaches  full  growth. 

EUROPEAN  LINDEN  (T.  Europea). — A  native  of  middle 
and  northern  Europe,  of  more  regular  form  and  smaller 
foliage  than  the  last,  and  but  for  the  injury  caused  by 
borers  and  a  leaf -blight  it  would  be  one  of  the  most  valu- 
able pyramidal  trees.  When  not  injured  by  the  above 
pests,  it  grows  very  rapidly  and  reaches  large  size.  (See 
chapter  on  Insects  and  Diseases.) 

WHITE-LEAVED  EUROPEAN  LINDEN  (T.  Europea,  var. 
argentca). — A  vigorous  tree  with  a  more  rounded  head  than 
the  last  and  with  leaves  dark  green  above  and  silvery  white 
beneath.  Subject  to  the  same  pests  as  the  last. 

AMERICAN  MOUNTAIN  ASH  (Pyrus  Americana). — One 
of  the  most  beautiful  native  small  trees  often  found 
growing  on  our  mountains.  Its  large  cymose  panicles 
of  white  flowers  are  very  beautiful,  and  there  is  scarcely 
anything  more  beautiful  than  the  large  clusters  of  dark  red 
fruit  in  the  autumn  and  early  winter.  It  is  so  seriously 
injured  by  the  apple-borer,  however,  that  it  is  only  by  the 


DESCRIPTION    OF   TREES. 


159 


most  constant  attention  that  it  can  be  grown  so  as  to  reach 
large  size. 

EUROPEAN  MOUNTAIN  ASH  (P.  aucuparia). — Very  simi- 
lar to  the  last  in  habit  of  growth  and  foliage,  but  with  larger 
and  lighter  colored  berries.  It  requires  the  same  treatment 
to  prevent  injury  from  insects  as  the  last  species. 

OAK-LEAVED  MOUNTAIN  ASH  (P.  «.,  var.  quercifolia), 
Fig.  81. — A  very  interesting  form  of  the  last  species,  of  a 


FIG.  81.— OAK-LEAVED  MOUNTAIN  ASH  (Pyrus  aucuparia 
quercifolia). 

more  compact  habit,  however,  and  having  leaves  somewhat 
like  those  of  the  English  oak.  Attention  must  be  given 
this  tree  to  prevent  injury  from  borers. 

HOP-TREE  (Ptelia  tnfoliata). — This  small  round-headed 
tree  possesses  peculiar  beauty  of  form  and  dark,  rich  color 
of  foliage,  but  its  most  striking  feature  is  the  masses  of 


160  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

circular-winged  fruit  that  somewhat  resemble  large  clusters 
of  the  fruit  of  the  common  hop-vine. 

OAKS. — These  trees  are,  many  of  them,  emblems  of 
grandeur  and  strength,  yet  some  of  the  species  and  varie- 
ties possess  graceful  and  pleasing  outlines  and  beautiful 
colors  of  foliage.  In  size  many  of  them  are  not  suited  to 
small  places,  and  yet  a  single  large  oak  with  a  cottage  and 
accompanying  outbuildings  nestling  under  its  branches 
affords  a  most  beautiful  picture  of  comfort  and  protection 
of  which  the  home  is  our  best  emblem.  Perhaps  the  most 
objectionable  feature  of  these  trees  as  a  lawn  ornament  is 


FTG.  82. — WHITE  OAK  (Quercus  alba}. 

the  persistency  with  which  the  foliage  adheres  in  the 
winter.  In  the  grove  mingled  with  evergreen  and  other 
deciduous  trees  this  feature  may  have  rather  a  pleasing 
effect,  but  in  a  conspicuous  place  on  a  lawn  its  persistent 
brown  leaves  are  not  a  pleasing  object  for  continued  view 
during  the  winter.  The  oaks  require  a  strong  soil  to  reach 
their  greatest  perfection,  but  they  do  well  under  a  great 
variety  of  conditions.  They  are  difficult  to  transplant  and 
need  the  special  preparation  recommended  for  the  oak, 
black  walnut,  etc.,  on  pages  140  and  141. 

WHITE  OAK  (Quercus  alba],  Fig.  82.* — The  grandest  of 


DESCRIPTION    OF    TREES.  161 

all  the  oaks  and  one  of  the  most  common.  It  is  rather  slow 
in  growth  and  wherever  large  trees  are  found,  whether  by 
the  roadside  or  in  the  field,  they  should  be  preserved  and 
the  most  be  made  of  their  picturesque  grandeur. 

RED  OAK  (Q,  rubra). — See  Street-  or  Avenue-trees. 

SWAMP  WHITE  OAK  (Q.  bicolor). — Somewhat  similar 
in  appearance  to  the  last,  but  rather  more  upright  in 
growth  and  with  a  heavier  foliage.  It  succeeds  best  in  a 
moist  soil. 

PIN-  OR  SWAMP-OAK  (Q.  palustris).  Fig.  83. — This 
beautiful  oak  is  only  of  medium  size  and  takes  the  most 
regular  pyramidal  form;  the  leaves  are  deeply  lobed,  dark 
green  in  color,  changing  to  a  beautiful  scarlet-crimson  in 
autumn.  Its  acorns  are  small,  set  in  a  very  shallow  cup, 
and  the  branches  stand  out  nearly  at  right  angles  with  the 
trunk  or  with  age  assume  a  drooping  form.  It  is  a  tree 
that  should  be  more  planted  than  it  is. 

SCARLET  OAK  (Q.  tinctoria^  var.  coccinea). — This  tree 
resembles  the  red  oak  (see  Avenue-tree.)  somewhat  in  out- 
line, but  with  a  much  more  deeply  lobed  leaf  and  an  acorn 
of  medium  size  nearly  half  immersed  in  the  cup.  It  is  an 
upland  oak  and  takes  on  a  beautiful  scarlet  color  in 
autumn. 

ENGLISH  OAK  (Q.  robur). — This  oak  is  medium  to  large 
in  size,  with  rather  small  leaves  like  our  native  white  oak, 
but  more  graceful  and  compact  in  outline.  It  takes  a 
greater  variety  of  forms  than  any  other  species,  varying 
from  the  most  close  and  upright  pyramidal  form  to  the 
low-spreading  or  weeping  tree,  and  in  foliage  from  the 
darkest  green  through  the  lighter  shades  of  green  to  golden 
yellow  and  to  the  rich  purple  shades  of  the  copper  beech. 
In  form- of  the  leaves  it  varies  from  those  with  broad,  almost 


162 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


unbroken  outline  to  the  deeply  cut,  almost  fern-like  leaves. 
These  peculiar  and  marked  forms,  however,  must  be  propa- 


FIG.  83. — PIN-OAK  (Quercus  palustris). 

gated  by  budding  or  grafting  and  are  often  of  slow  growth 
and  expensive.     Among  the  best  forms  are : 


DESCRIPTION    OF   TREES.  163 

Fern-leaved  oak  (Q.  r.,  var.  asplenifolia). 
Variegated  oak  (Q.  r.,  variegata). 
Purple-leaved  oak    Q.  r. ,  var.  atropurpurea) . 
Pyramidal  oak  (Q.  r.,  var.  fast igiatd). 

CHESTNUT  OAK  (Q.  Prinus). — The  leaves  of  this  species 
are  very  much  like  those  of  the  common  chestnut,  but  not 
so  narrow  or  so  pointed.  It  succeeds  best  in  rather  strong 
rocky  soil. 

ELMS. — Under  the  heading  of  "  Street-trees  "  the  white 
and  slippery  elm  were  described.  Both  of  these  species  are 
equally  adapted  to  the  lawn,  where  high-spreading  forms 
are  desired,  but  they  are  gross  feeders  and  it  will  be  found 
somewhat  difficult  to  make  other  trees,  shrubs,  or  plants 
grow  near  them.  An  abundance  of  plant-food,  however, 
applied  each  fall  will  help  to  make  both  the  elms  and  what- 
ever may  be  planted  among  their  roots  grow  satisfactorily. 

ENGLISH  ELM  (Ulmus  campestris). — Although  of  a 
sturdy,  vigorous,  upright  growth,  it  does  not  reach  the 
beauty  and  grandeur  of  our  American  elm.  As  with  the 
English  oak,  this  species  takes  many  interesting  forms,  some 
of  which  are  very  beautiful. 

SCOTCH  ELM  (U.  c.,  var.  Montana). — Much  like  the 
last,  but  with  a  rather  more  upright  and  heavy  growth. 

All  of  the  elms  are  subject  to  the  attack  of  the  elm-scale 
(Gossyparia),  canker-worm,  and  the  elm-beetle,  which  see 
on  pages  270-274. 

EUROPEAN  LARCH  (Larix  Europea). — This  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  and  rapid  growing  trees,  and  except  when 
injured  by  the  pine  saw-fly,  an  insect  the  larva?  of  which 
destroy  the  foliage  in  the  summer,  and  an  aphis  or  plant- 
louse  that  sometimes  checks  its  growth,  is  a  most  desirable 


164  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

tree.  The  foliage  is  very  fi  ne  and  f eatlier-like,  and  in  the 
spring  of  the  most  delicate  green  color,  which  gives  very 
beautiful  effects  in  contrast  with  other  foliage  or  by  itself. 
It  is  easily  transplanted  and  succeeds  upon  the  poorest  of 
soil.  The  lateral  branches  should  be  encouraged  to  make 
a  full  growth  by  heading  in  the  top  while  young,  yet  at 
the  same  time  its  regular  pyramidal  habit  of  growth  should 
be  preserved. 

Weeping  Trees. 

Few  more  beautiful  objects  can  be  seen  than  some  of  the 
many  weeping  trees  that  are  now  being  offered  by  nearly 
all  of  our  nurserymen.  They  possess  beauty  of  form,  grace 
in  outline,  and  often  produce  beautiful  flowers.  They  are 
especially  adapted  to  planting  upon  the  lawn.  Most  of  the 
trees  of  this  type  are  grafted  upon  other  stocks,  which  in 
many  cases  results  in  a  smaller  or  slower  growth  and  adds 
very  much  to  their  cost. 

LIST    OF    WEEPING   TREES. 

Maple,  Cut-leaved  Weeping.  Mulberry,  Weeping. 

Birch,  Cut-leaved  Weeping.  Willow,  Babylon  Weeping. 
Cherry,  Weeping  Japanese.  "         Kilmarnock  Weeping. 

Dogwo  >d,  Weeping.  "         Thurlow's  Weeping. 

BeecL,  Weeping.  "         Purple  or  Ani.  Weeping. 

Ash,  Weeping.  Elm,  Camperdown. 
Poplar,  Weeping. 

CUT-LEAVED  WEEPING  MAPLE  (Acer  dasycarpum,  var. 
laciniatum) ,  Fig.  84. — A  very  graceful  weeping  tree  with 
deeply  cut  leaves,  dark  green  above  and  silvery  white 
beneath.  When  allowed  to  grow  without  care,  it  often 
forms  forked  branches  that  are  liable  to  split  down  with 


DESCRIPTION   OF   TREES. 


165 


heavy  weight  of  snow  and  ice.  To  avoid  this,  only  one 
leader  or  main  branch  should  be  allowed  to  grow  at  first; 
and  all  laterals  tending  to  ontgrow  the  leader  should  be 
headed  in  to  keep  a  good  balance  of  the  tree.  Some  very 
fine  trees  are  grown  from  seed  of  the  cut-leaved  varieties, 


FIG.  84. — WIER'S  CITT-LEAYED  MAPLE  (Acer  dasycurpum 
laciniata  penduld). 

but  the  best  forms  must  be  obtained  by -grafting  upon  the 
common  silver-maple  stock. 

CUT-LEAVED  WEEPIXG  BIRCH  (Betula  alba,  var.  laciniata 
pendida),  Fig.  85. — On  account  of  its  rapid  growth,  the 
ease  with  which  it  is  transplanted,  and  its  great  beauty, 
both  in  winter  and  summer,  this  is  one  of  the  most  satis- 


166 


LANDSCAPE   GARDEN1KG. 


factory  of  the  weeping  trees.  It  is  especially  effective  with 
a  background  of  evergreens  or  in  winter  in  contrast  with 
red-  or  yellow-twigged  willows.  It  grows  well  in  poor  soil 


FIG.  85. — CUT-LEAVED  WEEPING  BIRCH  (Betula  alba,  laciniata 
pendula), 

and  is  easily  transplanted  while  young,  but  not  so  readily 
when  it  reaches  two  or  three  inches  in  diameter.  This 
variety  is  commonly  grafted  or  budded  on  the  common 
form  of  B.  alba. 


DESCRIPTION   OF  TREES.  167 

YOUNG'S  WEEPING  BIRCH  (B.  a.,  Youngii). — Smaller 
and  less  upright  than  the  last,  but  with  a  mere  drooping 
head  and  much  smaller  leaves.  It  forms  a  beautiful  object 
on  the  lawn. 

WEEPING  CHERRIES  AND  PLUMS. — Xothing  can  be  more 
beautiful  than  some  of  the  double-  and  single-flowered 
weeping  cherries  and  plums,  but,  like  those  of  the  s.ime 
genus  already  described,  they  are  short-lived,  liable  to  injury 
from  insects  and  fungous  pests,  and  the  cherries  especially 
to  injury  to  the  trunk  by  freezing.  One  of  the  most 
beautiful  is  the 

JAPANESE  WEEPING  CHERRY  (Primus  Japonica,  pen- 
dula).— While  young  this  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
objects  ever  introduced.  It  is,  however,  grafted  upon  an 
upright  stock,  and  we  have  thus  far  found  nothing  as  a 
stock  that  will  withstand  the  climate  of  middle  and  northern 
New  England,  where  the  trunk  is  split  open  by  the  action 
of  frosts.  Further  south  it  may  not  be  injured  in  this  way 
by  severe  winters. 

WEEPING  DOGWOOD  (Cornus  Florida,  var.  pendula). — 
This  small  tree  is  not  more  beautiful  than  the  upright  form 
of  the  species  already  described,  but  it  is  unique  and  attrac- 
tive when  well  grown. 

WEEPING  BEECH  (Fagus  sylvatica,  var.  pendula),  Fig. 
8G. — Although  not  regular  in  outline,  this  tree  has  a  pic- 
turesque beauty  peculiar  to  itself.  It  is  vigorous  in  growth 
and  desirable.  Succeeds  only  on  heavy  soils. 

WEEPING  ASH  (Fraxinus  excelsa,  var.  pendula). — A 
rather  stiif,  drooping  tree,  with  beautiful  foliage,  and 
although  not  equal  in  graceful  beauty  to  many  of  the 
weeping  trees  it  is  useful  in  some  combinations. 

WEEPING   POPLAR   (Populus  grandidentata,  var.  pen- 


168  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

dula). — A  most  beautiful  tree,  producing  its  blossoms  in 
long  pendant  catkins  before  any  other  trees  are  in  bloom, 
and  it  makes  a  very  beautiful  object  on  the  lawn.  Its  form 
is  good,  foliage  rich  green,  free  from  disease,  and  grafted 
upon  the  Carolina  poplar  or  cotton  wood  stock  it  bids  fair 


FIG.  86. — WEEPING  BEECH  (F.  syl.,  pendula). 

to  be  a  tree  that  will  last  longer  than  some  of  the  upright 
kinds.  Its  clean  gray  bark  also  makes  it  ornamental  in  the 
winter.* 

WEEPING  MULBERRY  (Morus  alba.  var.  laciniata  pen- 
dula), Fig.  87. — One  of  the  most  graceful  and  beautiful 
fountain-shaped  trees.  Its  branches  are  slender  and  fall 
away  from  the  upright  stock  upon  which  it  is  grafted  in  a 
very  graceful  fountain-like  mariner,  and  its  deeply  cut  and 

*  Since  the  above  was  written  specimens  of  this  tree  have  been 
seen  badly  injured  by  cold. 


OP  TREES. 


169 


lobed  bright  green  leaves  add  much  to  its  lightness  and 
beauty.  It  has  thus  far  proved  hardy  and  free  from  disease 
or  insect  pest. 


FIG.  87.— TEAS'  WEEPING  MULBERRY  (Morus  alba,  Siberica). 

BABYLOX  WEEPING  WILLOW  (Salix  Babylonicd). — The 
largest  and  most  rapid  growing  of  the  very  graceful  weep- 
ing trees;  it  is  a  very  beautiful  tree,  but  has  some  of  the 
faults  of  other  species  of  willows,  and  its  branches  are  easily 
broken  off  by  wind  and  storm.  It  is  especially  adapted  to 


2   GARDENING. 

locations  near  water  and  grows  most  rapidly  in  a  moist 
soil. 

KILMARNOCK  WEEPING  WILLOW  (S.  Caprcea,  var.  pen- 
dula}.— This  fountain  willow  grows  well  for  a  time  in  a 
great  variety  of  soils,  but  is  short-lived.  Its  form  is  very 
regular  and  unbroken,  and  is  little  more  ornamental  than 
a  hay-stack. 

THUKLOW'S  WEEPING  WILLOW  (S.  sp.  Thurloivii). — As 
far  as  tested  this  new  tree  promises  to  be  the  most  satisfac- 


FIG.  88. — CAMPERDOWN  ELM  (U.  Campestris,  pendula). 
tory  and  beautiful  of  the  willows.  In  form  it  is  "upright 
with  the  branches  bending  toward  the  ground.  Its  branches 
are  bright  green,  which  will  form  a  pleasing  contrast  with 
the  yellow  and  red  shoots  of  the  other  willows  and  the 
clean  white  branches  of  the  birches. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  TREES.  171 

PURPLE  "WEEPING  WILLOW  (S.purpurea,  var.  pendula). 
— The  glaucous  foliage  of  this  native  willow,  together  with 
the  purple-colored  shoots,  gives  a  shade  of  color  that  is  very 
desirable  iu  ornamental  grouping. 

CAMPERDOWN  ELM  (Ulmus  Montana,  pendula),  Fig.  88. 
— For  an  arbor-tree,  one  that  will  give  a  close  shade  and 
last  a  long  time  and  is  decidedly  graceful  in  outline,  this 
tree  stands  at  the  head  of  the  list.  To  get  the  best  results, 
it  shonld  be  grafted  at  least  six  feet  from  the  ground  on 
the  upright  Montana  stock;  otherwise  the  branches  will  be 
too  low  to  sit  under  conveniently,  and  when  reaching  near 
the  ground  many  of  the  lower  branches  will  soon  decay. 

Trees  with  Deeply  Cut  Foliage. 

Maple,  Wier's  Cut-leaved.  Maple,  Variegated-leaved,  Jap. 

Bircb,  Cut-leaved  Weeping.  Beech,  Fern-leaved,  Jap. 

Maple,  Purple,  Cut-leaved,  Jap.  Asb,  Cut-leaved  " 

"        Green  Fern-leaved      "  Oak,  Cut-leaved  " 

Of  the  above  Wier^s  Cut-leaved  Maple  and  Weeping  Cut- 
leaved  Birch  have  already  been  described  under  "  Weeping 
Trees,"  Figs.  84  and  85,  and  are  among  the  very  best  of 
this  group. 

JAPANESE  MAPLES  (Acer  polijmorplium,  var.}. — Few 
trees  have  such  a  variety  of  foliage  or  forms  of  growth  as 
this  species.  Some  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the  forms  have 
already  been  mentioned,  but  no  description  given.  Among 
the  best  are  the  following: 

JAPANESE  PURPLE  CUT-LEAVED  MAPLE  (A.p.,dissectum 
purpureum). — A  beautiful  weeping,  cut-leaved,  small  tree, 
very  slow  in  growth,  but  the  leaves  are  so  deeply  cut  and 
fern-like,  and  with  deep  purple  color,  that  one  is  well 
repaid  for  considerable  petting  and  long  waiting  if  he 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

succeeds  in  making  it  grow  to  perfection.  It  must  be 
planted  in  a  deep,  moderately  rich  soil,  and  should  have  an 
annual  dressing  of  rich  manure  for  3  or  4  feet  around  the 
trunk  in  the  fall. 

JAPANESE  GREEN  FERN-LEAVED  MAPLE  (A.  p.,  rar. 
pinnatifiduiri) . — A  variety  that  is  rather  more  vigorous 
than  the  last,  but  with  green  fern-like  foliage  and  graceful 
drooping  habit. 

VARIEGATED  FERN-LEAVED  MAPLE  (A.  p.,  dissectum 
roseo-pictum) . — Equal  to  the  last  in  vigor  and  perfection  of 
foliage,  but  many  of  the  leaves  are  beautifully  bordered  and 
marked  with  white,  pink,  and  rose-color,  especially  those 
on  the  inside  of  the  shrub. 

FERN-LEAVED  BEECH  (Fagus  sylvaticus,  var.  Jietero- 
pliylla). — In  a  heavy  soil  where  other  varieties  of  the  oeech 
succeed  this  tree  will  thrive  and  is  very  beautiful  and 
desirable. 

CUT-LEAVED  ASH  (Fraxinus  excelsior,  var.  cnculata}.— 
The  leaves  of  this  variety  are  irregularly  cut  and  divided 
and  the  tree  presents  a  very  pleasing  appearance.  Requires 
a  heavy  soil. 

CUT-LEAVED  OAK  (Qiiercus  robur,  var.  laciniata). — For 
a  slow-growing  tree  this  is  one  of  the  most  permanent  and 
in  strong  soil  succeeds  with  good  ordinary  care.  Like  all 
the  other  oaks,  it  is  difficult  to  transplant. 

Trees  with  Colored  Foliage. 

Maple,  Reitenbacb.  Beecb,  Copper. 

"        Scbwerdler's.  "       Rivers' Purple. 

"        Japanese.  Poplar,  Golden. 

"        Purple  Sycamore.  Plum,  Purple-leaved. 

Tricolored  Sycamore.  Oak,  Purple-leaved. 
Bircb,  Purple-leaved. 


DESCRIPTION   OF   TREES.  173 

REITENBACH  MAPLE  (Acer  platanoides,  var.  Reiten- 
bachii)  and  SCHWERDLER'S  MAPLE  (A.  p.,  var.  Schwerd- 
lerii)  have  already  been  described  under  Lawn-trees. 

JAPAX  PURPLE-LEAVED  MAPLE  (A.  polymorphism,  var. 
atropurpureum  and  sanguineum).  Fig.  75. — These  two 
varieties  are  very  much  alike,  bat  the  first  has  somewhat 
darker  foliage  with  a  deeper-lobed  and  rather  narrower  leaf 
than  the  last.  They  grow  nearly  as  large  as  the  common 
form  of  this  species,  i.e.,  10  to  15  ft.,  and  the  foliage  is  the 
most  beautifully  colored  of  all  of  the  purple-leaved  trees. 
They  require  a  deep  warm  soil,  and  perhaps  a  little  shelter 
from  too  much  exposure,  and  are  more  hardy  when  grown 
in  the  lawn  than  when  grown  in  a  rich  border. 

PURPLE  SYCAMORE  MAPLE  (A.  pseudoplatanus,  var. 
atropurpurea). — A  heavy,  broad-headed  tree,  with  dark 
bronze-green  foliage,  but  not  of  the  decided  color  possessed 
by  Schwerdler's  or  the  Japanese  species. 

TRICOLORED  SYCAMORE  MAPLE  (A.  p.,  var.  tricolor). — 
Of  the  same  form  as  the  last,  but  with  leaves  beautifully 
marked  with  white,  green,  and  purple.  Very  interesting, 
but  not  a  conspicuous  tree. 

PURPLE-LEAVED  BIRCH  (Betulaalba,  var.  atropurpurea). 
— A  tree  of  good  form  and  with  conspicuous  colored  foliage 
in  spring,  soon  changing  to  a  bronze  green.  The  contrast 
of  this  dark  foliage  with  the  white  bark  of  the  branches 
makes  it  a  very  desirable  tree.  It  succeeds  upon  very  thin 
soil. 

PURPLE-LEAVED  CATALPA  (Catalpa  bignonioides,  var. 
purpurea). — Were  this  tree  perfectly  hardy  in  the  northern 
sections  of  the  country  it  would  be  one  of  the  most  desirable 
trees  for  the  lawn.  It,  however,  is  not  quite  hardy  while 
young,  and,  as  with  the  C.  speciosa,  it  must  be  kept  in  the 


174  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

shelter  of  the  nursery  until  it  is  3  or  4  inches  in  diameter 
at  the  base,  when,  if  it  has  been  transplanted  in  the  nursery 
several  times,  it  may  be  safely  moved  to  the  lawn,  where  it 
will  succeed  better  than  in  a  rich  border.  The  foliage  is 
large,  dark  bronze  purple,  growing  somewhat  lighter  with 
the  advance  of  the  season. 

COPPER-LEAVED  BEECH  (Fagus  sylvatica,  var.  pur- 
purea). — No  tree  is  more  conspicuous  on  the  lawn  or  in 
groups  than  the  purple  or  copper  beech,  and  large  numbers 
of  them  are  planted  each  year;  yet  we  see  very  few  speci- 
mens more  than  a  few  years'  old.  The  reason  for  this 
undoubtedly  is  that  they  do  not  succeed  in  all  soils  and  in 
full  exposure  and  that  they  are  sometimes  attacked  by 
borers  which  work  in  the  trunk  near  the  ground.  The 
varieties  will  grow  only  under  the  conditions  of  the  common 
types,  requiring  a  deep  moist  soil,  some  shade  or  shelter 
while  young,  and  a  cool  northerly  exposure. 

RIVERS'  PURPLE  BEECH  (F.  s.,  var.  2^urpurea  River  sii), 
Fig.  89. — This  variety  has  more  deeply  cut  and  darker 
leaves  than  the  last,  and  may  be  preferred  by  many,  though 
both  are  extremely  beautiful,  and  change  about  equally  to 
the  bronze-green  color  as  they  mature. 

GOLDEN  POPLAR  (Populus  Canadcnsis,  var.  aurea).— 
This  is  the  most  rapid  growing  of  the  golden-leaved  trees, 
and  is  of  value  planted  in  contrast  with  purple-  and  dark- 
leaved  varieties  of  trees.  Like  some  of  the  other  species  of 
poplars,  it  is  short-lived  and  the  leaves  are  often  seriously 
injured  by  rust  in  August,  which  causes  defoliation  before 
the  buds  are  matured.  The  treatment  required  to  destroy 
this  rust  is  the  same  as  for  that  described  for  the  black 
poplar. 

PURPLE-LEAVED  PLUM  (Primus  pissardi). — Were  it  not 


DESCRIPTION    OF   TREES. 


for  the  short  life  of  this  tree  it  would  be  one  of  the  greatest 
acquisitions  of  the  last  decade.    It  is  rapid  in  growth,  easily 


FIG.  89. — RIVERS'  PURPLE  BEECH  (Fagus  syL,  purpurea) 

transplanted,  of  good  form,  and  retains  its  dark  purple  color 
longer  than  any  other  tree.  As  yet  it  has  shown  little 
tendency  to  disease  or  the  attack  of  insects,  and  it  is  hoped 
that  it  may  be  free  from  some  of  the  faults  that  render  so 
many  of  the  same  genus  of  little  value  for  ornamental  pur- 
poses. 

PURPLE-LEAVED  OAK  (Quercus  roibur,  var.  atropur- 
purea). — The  characteristic  of  strength  typified  by  the 
oaks  makes  any  of  the  species  of  interest,  and  if  in  addition 
to  this  character  they  possess  strikingly  beautiful  features 
they  become  all  the  more  valuable.  This  tree  has  dark 


176  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

purple  or  bronze-green  foliage  all  summer,  is  moderately 
vigorous  in  growth,  and  very  desirable. 

GOLDEN-LEAVED  OAK  (Q.  r.,  var.  concordia). — This  is 
perhaps  tlie  best  of  the  golden-leaved  oaks,  and  is  very 
beautiful  when  the  leaves  first  unfold,  but  it  loses  some- 
thing of  its  freshness  and  beauty  as  the  season  advances. 
Its  chief  value  consists  in  the  use  that  may  be  made  of  it 
in  toning  down  the  extreme  shades  and  tints  of  other  trees. 

GOLDEN-LEAVED  JAPANESE  MAPLE  (A.  Jap.^aurea).— 
A  most  beautiful  tree  for  planting  with  the  purple-leaved 
forms  of  A.  polymorphum. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

EVERGREEN   TREES. 

EVERGREEN  trees  are  indispensable  in  some  featnres  of 
ornamental  gardening.  They  are  especially  valuable  for 
screens  and  wind-breaks,  for  a  background  against  which 
to  group  trees  with  beautifully  colored  leaves  or  branches, 
and  for  winter  decoration.  The  too  abundant  use  of  ever- 
greens results  in  a  sombre  effect  and  often  to  an  unhealthy 
condition  if  planted  too  close  to  the  buildings.  The  limit 
and  scope  of  this  work  will  allow  of  the  description  of  only 
the  most  beautiful,  and  those  that  succeed  under  a  wide 
range  of  conditions  and  are  most  easily  transplanted. 
Small  evergreens  should  not  be  planted  where  teams,  per- 
sons, or  animals  passing  will  brush  against  them  continually 
during  the  winter,  as  they  are  very  easily  injured  in  this 
way  while  frozen. 

Evergreens  may  be  transplanted  at  almost  any  season  of 
the  year,  but  great  care  needs  to  be  taken  that  the  roots  do 
not  become  dry  by  exposure  to  sun  and  wind,  and  if  possi- 
ble a  moist  day  should  be  selected.  Evergreens,  like  all 
other  trees  and  shrubs,  must  have  an  abundance  of  plant- 
food.  The  annual  dressing  of  compost  should  be  applied 
to  them  as  much  as  to  the  flowering  shrubs,  at  least  until 
they  have  become  thoroughly  established.  Nearly  all  are 
also  benefited  by  pruning,  especially  those  that  tend  to 

177 


178  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

grow  into  a  close  spiry  form.  This  is  best  done  in  the 
spring  before  growth  begins,  though  it  may  be  done  at  any 
time  with  fair  success.  Among  the  best  of  the  evergreen 
trees  are : 

Spruce,  White.  Pine,  Bhotan. 

"        Norway.  "      Swiss  Stone. 

;<        Inverted  Norway.  Cypress,  Japanese  Pea-fruited. 

"        Colorado  Blue.  "  "        Thread-like. 

Fir,  Nordmann's.  Arbor-vitse,  American. 
Juniper  or  Red  Cedar.  "         "       Siberian. 

"         Prostrate.  "         "       Pyramidal. 

Pine,  Austrian.  "         "       Globe. 

"      Weymouth  or  White.  "         "       Golden. 

WHITE  SPRUCE  (Abies  alba). — A  native  tree  of  consider- 
able beauty  of  form,  rapid  growth,  and  good  color.  It  is 
easily  transplanted  and  grows  in  a  variety  of  soils. 

NORWAY  SPRUCE  (A.  excelsa). — The  most  rapid  growing 
of  the  spruces  and  very  beautiful  while  young,  but  after  it 
reaches  the  age  of  20  years  and  upwards  its  lower  branches 
begin  to  fail  and  must  be  cut  away.  To  prevent  this  in  a 
measure  severe  heading  in  of  the  leader  should  be  prac- 
tised, which  forces  the  growth  into  the  lower  branches.  It 
grows  rapidly  even  on  very  poor  soil.  The  weeping  variety 
(A.  e.,  var.  invert  a)  is  very  unique  in  form,  the  branches 
hanging  downward  close  to  the  trunk,  presenting  a  very 
unusual  appearance. 

COLORADO  BLUE  SPRUCE  (Picea  pungens),  Fig.  90. — 
Seedlings  of  this  most  beautiful  spruce  vary  very  much  in 
color,  some  being  dark  green,  like  the  Norway  spruce,  while 
others  are  of  the  most  beautiful  glaucous  or  bluish-green 
color.  Some  of  these  very  "  blue  "  specimens  may  be  found 
in  every  lot  of  seedlings,  but  to  obtain  them  with  certainty 


EVERGREEN    TREES.  179 

and  in  large  numbers  scions  are  taken  from  the  best-colored 
specimens  and  grafted  into  the  ordinary  "  pungens"  or 
"  excelsa  "  stocks.  Thus  the  most  perfectly  colored  speci- 


FIG.  90. — COLORADO  BLUE  SPRUCE  (Abies  pungens). 

mens  become  rather  expensive.  They  make  most  beautiful 
lawn-trees  either  singly  or  in  groups  of  the  same  species 
or  arranged  with  others  of  varying  colors. 

XORDMANN'S  FIR  (Abies  Nordmanniana),  Fig.  91. — A 
slow-growing  tree  of  very  dark  green  color  and  the  most 
perfect  pyramidal  growth.  The  contrast  of  the  new  growth 
in  the  spring,  which  is  almost  golden  color,  with  the  very 
dark  color  of  the  old  foliage  is  very  beautiful. 

RED  CEDAR  (Juniperus  Virginiana). — A  native  tree 
generally  conical  in  form,  found  growing  on  dry,  rocky 
hillsides,  and  is  very  pretty  and  useful  for  decorating  such 
places.  It  takes  on  more  or  less  of  the  brownish  green,  like 
the  arbor-vitaes,  during  the  winter. 

PROSTRATE  JUNIPER  (J.  sabina,  var.  procumbens). — 
Although  of  rather  coarse  growth,  its  prostrate  habit  makes 
it  valuable  for  decorating  rocky  grounds,  among  ledges  and 


180 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


boulders,  where  it  is  very  effective.  The  golden  variety, 
the  new  growth  of  which  is  of  golden  color,  is  very  pretty 
in  contrast  with  the  dark  green  of  the  original  form. 


FIG.  91. — NOHDSM  ANN'S  Fin  (Abies  Nordmanniana). 

AUSTRIAN  PINE  (P-mus  Austriaca),  Fig.  92. — This  is 
rather  a  heavy  growing-tree,  somewhat  resembling  our 
native  pitch-pine,  but  with  a  more  compact  growth,  longer 
and  darker  green  leaves,  and  succeeds  in  a  variety  of  soils. 
The  most  valuable  of  the  hard  pines  for  ornamental  pur- 
poses, but  should  not  be  planted  on  small  places. 

WHITE  OR  WEYMOUTH  PINE  (P.  strobus). — This  is  one 
of  the  most  valuable  native  trees  for  a  quick  growth,  grow- 
ing rapidly  in  almost  any  kind  of  soil.  While  young  it  is 
very  beautiful,  perfect  in  outline,  and  of  a  beautiful 


EVERGREEN   TREES.  181 

glaucous  color,  but  as  it  reaches  maturity  it  becomes  more 
and  more  spreading  and  irregular,  which  while  not  un= 
pleasant  under  some  circumstances  is  not  well  adapted  to 
use  upon  the  ordinary  small  lawn.  It  is  one  of  the  most 


FIG   92. — AUSTRIAN  PINE  (Pinus  Austrica). 


easily  transplanted  trees  we  have,  whether  taken  from  the 
nursery,  the  pastures,  or  woods.  It  stands  pruning  well 
and  may  be  trained  into  a  great  variety  of  forms,  though 
in  its  natural  growth  while  young  it  possesses  more  real 
beauty  than  any  close-shaven  or  unnaturally  trained  form. 
BHOTAX  OR  LOXG-LEAVED  PIXE  (P.  excelsd). — Some- 


182 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 


what  resembling  the  last,  but  with  much  longer  and  more 
beautiful  leaves;  the  form  of  the  tree,  however,  is  not  so 
graceful  or  regular.  Not  quite  hardy  in  the  Northeastern 
States. 

Swiss  STONE-PINE  (P.  cembra). — This  species  is  very 
much  like  the  native  white  pine  in  color,  but  it  is  more 
compact  in  form,  making  a  pyramidal  growth.  It  is  rather 


FIG.  93. — JAPANESE  PEA-FRUITED  CYPRESS  (Retinospora  picifera). 

slower  in  growth  than  the  latter  species  and  much  more 
beautiful. 

JAPANESE  PEA-FRUITED  CYPRESS  ( Ret inospor a  picifera), 
Fig.  93. — This  is  the  largest  and  one  of  the  most  hardy  of 
the  many  species  of  this  genus  that  have  been  introduced 
from  Japan.  The  foliage  is  dark  green  and  it  is  somewhat 


EVERGREEN   TREES.  183 

fern-like  in  the  arrangement  of  its  small  branches.  While 
young  it  is  compact  and  very  beautiful,  but  as  it  reaches 
maturity  it  becomes  more  open  and  irregular  in  growth, 
though  it  still  retains  much  of  its  beauty. 

JAPANESE  THREAD-LIKE  CYPRESS  (R.  filifera). — More 
beautiful  than  the  last  and  equally  hardy.  It  is  of  light 
green  color  with  thread-like  terminal  branches  and  very 
graceful  and  perfect  in  form.  One  of  the  most  desirable  of 
evergreens  of  medium  size. 

AMERICAN  ARBOR- VIT^;  (Thuya  occidental  i*]. — A  na- 
tive tree  of  beautiful  form  and  color  while  young,  but  soon 
becomes  irregular  and  tends  to  lose  its  lower  branches  as  it 
increases  in  age.  It  has  produced  a  great  many  beautiful 
forms,  some  of  which  are  much  more  valuable  than  the 
original  type.  It  should  not  be  planted  where  there  is  very 
great  exposure  to  prevailing  winds  or  where  teams,  persons, 
or  animals  will  come  in  contact  with  it  during  the  winter 
when  the  branches  are  frozen,  for  nothing  is  more  destruc- 
tive to  its  beauty  than  contact  in  zero  weather.  Among 
the  most  valuable  varieties  are  the  following: 

SIBERIAN  ARBOR-VIT.E  (T.  o.,  var.  Siberica),  Fig.  94. 
— Compact,  dwarf,  conical  in  form,  of  a  much  darker 
green  than  most  of  the  varieties,  and  it  takes  on  less  of  the 
brown  color  during  the  winter  than  any  other  form  of  the 
species;  especially  valuable  for  hedges. 

PYRAMIDAL  ARBOR-YIT^E  (T.  o.,  var.  pyramidal  is). — 
Of  close,  compact,  pyramidal  form,  it  serves  a  good  purpose 
w^here  small  columnar  trees  are  desired.  It  is  of  about  the 
same  color  as  the  original  type  of  the  species. 

GLOBE  ABBOR-YIT^E  (T.  o.,  var.  globosa). — Compact 
and  globular  in  form,  of  a  dark  green  color,  and  valuable 
for  low  hedges  or  for  small,  low,  round-headed  trees. 


184 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 


GOLDEN  AKBOR-VIT^  (T.  0.,  var.  aurea). — Several 
varieties  with  golden-tipped  branches  or  with  the  whole 
foliage  of  a  very  light  green  color  are  offered  by  nursery- 


FIG.  94.— SIBERIAN  ARBOR  VIT.E  (Thuya  occidentalis,  var.  Siberica). 

men,  and  planted  in  contrast  with  dark  green  varieties  they 
produce  a  very  pleasing  effect.  Perhaps  one  objection  may 
be  urged  against  them,  as  with  other  trees  with  yellow 
foliage,  that  they  have  the  appearance  of  sickly  trees,  but 
when  properly  grouped  they  may  be  made  to  tone  down 
sharp  contrasts  and  to  add  tints  to  groups  not  otherwise 
obtainable. 


CHAPTER   XII. 

ORNAMENTAL   SHRUBS,  CLIMBING  VINES,  AND   HEDGE 
PLANTS. 

FLOWERING  shrubs  and  those  with  brilliantly  colored 
foliage  are  to  ornamental  gardening  what  the  finishing 
touches  are  to  the  picture  or  the  varnishing  is  to  furniture. 
They  help  to  fill  ont  the  well-rounded  forms  of  groups  of 
trees  and,  possessing  more  variety  of  colors  of  flowers  and 
foliage  than  the  large  trees,  they  add  beautiful  bits  of  color 
to  often  otherwise  tame  garden-work.  Being  small  in  size, 
they  are  especially  useful  in  planting  places  of  small  ex- 
tent, are  comparatively  inexpensive,  and  reach  maturity 
in  a  very  short  time.  '  They  are  very  useful  in  ornamenting 
the  foreground  where  it  is  desired  to  take  in  views  above 
and  beyond  the  limits  of  small  grounds,  and  serve  the  pur- 
pose of  a  setting  or  ornamentation  close  up  to  the  dwelling 
and  over  which  may  be  viewed  the  more  extended  lawn 
decoration.  Among  the  most  desirable  are  the  following: 

Azalea,  Pink.  Pepper-bush,  Sweet. 

"       Flame-colored.  Dogwood,  Red-twigged. 

"       Vasey's.  "         Variegated 

"       Japanese.  Filbert,  Purple-leaved. 

"       Ghent.  Quince,  Japanese. 

Aralia,  Hercules-club.  •                 Daphne. 

"       Japanese.  Deutzia,  Double-flowered. 

Barberry,  Am.  "         Sle-der. 

"         Dwarf.  Weigela,  Rose-flowered. 

185 


186 


LANDSCAPE  GARDENING. 


Weigela,  Variegated. 

Silver-thorn. 

Strawberry-tree. 

"  "     Corky-barked. 

Exchorda. 
Golden-bell. 

"         "     Fortune's. 

"          "     Weeping. 
Silver-bell 
Rose  of  Sharon. 
Hydrangea,  Japanese. 
St.  John's-wort,  Shrubby. 
Honeysuckle,  Tartarian. 
Mock-orange. 

Golden. 

"          Large-flowered. 
Purple  Fringe  (Smoke-tree). 
White  Fringe. 
Sumac,  Cut-leaved. 

"        Japanese. 
Elder,  Golden. 


Elder,  Red-fruited. 
Spiraea.  Golden. 

"         Bridal-wreath. 
Lobed. 
Bumald's. 
"         Thun  berg's. 
"        Van  Houtt's. 
Snowberry. 
Indian  Currant. 
Lilac,  Common. 
"      Persian. 
"       Japanese  Tree. 

Josikea. 
"      Downy. 
Cranberry- shrub. 
Snowball,  Japanese. 
Roses,  Bedding. 
"       Moss. 
"       Climbing 
"       Japanese. 
Rose,  Japanese  Running. 


PiiS'K  AZALEA  (Azalea  (Rhododendron)  nudiflora). — One 
of  the  most  beautiful  of  our  native  shrubs  and  one  that 
succeeds  best  in  rather  cool,  shaded  places.  It  is  easily 
transplanted  and  may  be  very  successfully  moved  from  the 
borders  of  woods  to  the  lawn  if  taken  in  clumps  with  some- 
thing of  a  bog  of  soil  upon  the  roots.  The  plants  are 
improved,  however,  if  taken  up  and  grown  in  a  cool, 
somewhat  shaded  nursery  for  a  year  or  two  before  trans- 
planting .permanently. 

FLAME-COLOKED  AZALEA  (A.  (R.)  calendulacea). — A 
beautiful  species  from  the  mountainous  regions  of  the  South 
and  requiring  a  little  protection  in  New  England,  but  well 
worth  the  little  care  required  to  protect  it  by  setting  up 
pine  boughs  about  them  or  by  tying  up  in  a  thin  covering 


ORNAMENTAL   SHRUBS,  VINES,  AND    HEDGE    PLANTS.    187 

of  straw  or  mats  during  the  winter.  It  succeeds  under  the 
same  treatment  as  the  last. 

VASEY'S  AZALEA  (A.  (R.)  Vaseyii}. — A  comparatively 
new  species,  also  a  native  of  the  Southern  States,  with 
beautiful  light  pink  or  rose-colored  flowers,  and  thus  far 
has  proved  hardy.  It  promises  to  be  a  valuable  addition 
to  our  list  of  early-blooming  shrubs. 

JAPAN  AZALEAS  (A.  mottis),  Fig.  95. — The  flowers  of 
this  species  are  of  a  great  variety  of  colors,  ranging  from 
almost  pure  white  through  various  shades  of  yellow  and 


FIG.  95.— JAPANESE  AZALEA  (Azalea  mollis). 

orange  to  that  of  dark  orange-red.  It  is  perfectly  hardy, 
but  rather  slow  in  growth,  requiring  a  moist  soil  and  a  little 
shelter  from  drying  winds  and  hot  sun. 

GHENT  AZALEAS  (A  pontica,  liylridd). — The  flowers  of 
this  species  are  very  similar  in  colors  to  the  last  and  require 
about  the  same  treatment. 

HERCULES'-CLUB  (Araha  spinosa).  —  An  interesting 
shrub,  with  large  compound  leaves  and  a  heavy  panicle  of 
white  flowers  coming  in  August.  It  has  the  habit  of  pro- 
ducing suckers  that,  if  left  to  themselves,  are  not  desirable, 


188  LANDSCAPE  GARDENING. 

but  by  palling  up  such  as  are  not  wanted  those  remaining 
grow  luxuriantly  and  the  mass  is  kept  in  a  satisfactory  con- 
dition. It  succeeds  best  in  a  somewhat  sheltered,  warm, 
but  rich  soil. 

JAPANESE  ARALIA  (A.  Japonica). — This  species  resem- 
bles the  last  very  much,  but  with  rather  smaller  and  finer 
leaves,  requiring  the  same  treatment. 

AMERICAN  BARBERRY  (  Herberts  vulgaris).  Fig.  9G. — 
This  beautiful  shrub  is  common  throughout  the  Eastern  and 
Northern  States,  and  were  it  less  common  would  be  more 
prized  as  an  ornamental  shrub.  It  grows  with  little  care 
and  no  shrub  is  more  beautiful,  with  its  golden  drooping 


FIG  96. — BAKBEIIRY  (Herberts  vulgarti),  Fruit, 
clusters  of  flowers  in  June  and  its  bright  scarlet  fruit  in 
autumn  and  winter.  It  has  the  tendency  to  make  a  rather 
straggling  bush,  but  may  be  forced  to  take  a  compact  bushy 
form  by  heading  back  severely  some  of  the  strong  new 
shoots  on  the  inside  when  they  have  reached  the  height  of 
2  or  3  feet.  It  makes  a  very  desirable  hedge. 

PURPLE-LEAVED  BARBERRY  (B.  #.,  var.  purpurea). — 
One  of  the  smallest  purple-leaved  shrubs  and  one  of  the 
best.  It  retains  its  dark  purple  color  through  the  season 
better  than  almost  any  other  tree  or  shrub,  and  is  especially 
desirable  to  plant  in  the  foreground  of  golden  or  light  green 
leaved  trees  or  shrubs.  Its  golden  flowers  are  rather  more 


ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS,  VINES,  AND    HEDGE    PLANTS.    189 

conspicuous  on  the  dark  purple  background  of  its  leaves 
than  those  of  the  common  type,  but  the  fruit  is  not  so  con- 
spicuous. It  needs  frequent  heading  in  while  young  to 
bring  it  into  a  compact  bushy  form. 


FIG.  97. — SWEET  PFPPER-BUSH  (Clethra  alnifolia), 

DWARF  BARBERRY  (B.  Thunbergii) . — A  beautiful  dwarf 
shrub  from  Japan,  not  growing  more  than  3  feet  high,  and 
taking  a  broad  compact  form.  Its  leaves  are  small  and 
numerous,  changing  to  a  beautiful  orange  and  red  color  in 
the  autumn,  and  the  fruit,  about  the  same  sizo  as  the  native 
species,  is  borne  singly  along  the  underside  of  the  drooping 


190 


LANDSCAPE    GARI^JSTING. 


branches.     Jt  is  especially  desirable  for  low  hedges,  lines, 
or  borders. 

SWEET  PEPPER-BUSH  (Cletlira  alnifoUa),  Fig.  97. — A 
very  hardy  native  shrub,  producing  abundant  spikes  of 
beautiful  fra,grant  white  flowers  in  July.  It  has  the  habit 
of  spreading  by  sucker  and  needs  care  that  too  many  of 
these  are  not  allowed  to  grow;  otherwise  the  flowers  will  be 
small  and  less  abundant.  It  thrives  best  in  a  rather  moist, 
somewhat  shaded  locality. 


FIG.  98.— VARIEGATED  DOGWOOD  (Cornus  Siberica,  variegatus). 

RED  DOGWOOD  (Cornus  sanguined], — A  beautiful  shrub 
of  large  size  and  especially  valuable  for  winter  effect.  The 
branches  are  bright  red,  and  planted  in  contrast  with  low- 
trained  golden  willow  with  the  snow  for  a  background  very 


ORNAMENTAL   SHRUBS.  191 

beautiful  results  are  often  obtained.  A  group  of  evergreens 
in  front  of  this  shrub  also  gives  a  good  contrast. 

VARIEGATED-LEAVED  DOGWOOD  (C.  Siberica,  variegata), 
Fig.  98. — The  leaves  of  this  shrub  are  most  beautifully 
variegated  with  yellow,  white,  and  green,  and  make  pleas- 
ing contrasts  with  dark  green  or  purple  leaved  shrubs. 
The  branches  are  of  the  same  color  as  those  of  the  last. 

PURPLE-LEAVED  FILBERT  (Corylus  avellana,  var.  atro- 
purpurea). — This  shrub  has  the  darkest  foliage  of  any  that 
I  am  acquainted  with.  When  it  first  unfolds  it  is  almost 
black,  but  it  soon  changes  to  a  rich  bronze  green.  It  is 
one  of  the  best  for  planting  in  contrast  with  the  golden- 
leaved  elder,  golden  spiraea,  the  variegated  dogwood,  or  other 
shrubs  with  bright-colored  foliage.  It  should  not  be  forced 
too  rapidly  while  young,  as  it  is  not  quite  hardy  in  the 
extreme  Northern  States.  A  purple  form  of  the  common 
hazel  nut,  C.  Americana^  has  recently  been  discovered  by 
the  author  but  has  not  been  put  on  the  market.  From  its 
hardiness,  ease  of  growth,  and  beautiful  foliage  it  promises 
to  be  one  of  the  best  purple-leaved  shrubs. 

JAPAN  QUINCE  (Cydonia  Japonica\  Fig.  99. — One  of 
the  most  hardy  and  vigorous  of  the  imported  shrubs.  The 
flowers  are  mostly  scarlet,  but  varying  from  this  through 
many  shades  of  red  and  pink  to  pure  white,  and  as  they 
open  before  the  leaves  unfold  produce  very  brilliant  effects. 
Its  tough,  hard  growth  makes  it  valuable  for  hedges,  which 
are  very  ornamental  when  in  blossom. 

DAPHNE  (Daphne  mezeron). — This  is  the  earliest  bloomer 
of  all  flowering  shrubs,  and  its  close  clusters  of  dull  pink 
flowers,  though  not  very  large  or  showy,  are  very  pretty 
harbingers  of  spring. 

DOUBLE-FLOWERED  DEUTZIA  (Deutzia  crenata,  fl.pl.). — 


192  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

A  tall,  upright-growing  shrub  with  dark  green  leaves  and 
pendent  racemes  of  pink  or  white  flowers.  It  tends  to 
grow  with  few  lower  branches,  and  some  of  the  inside  canes 
need  cutting  out  occasionally  to  give  it  a  branching  condi- 
tion. If  forced  into  too  much  growth  it  often  winter-kills. 


FIG.  99.— JAPAN  QUINCE  (Cydonia  Japom'ca). 

SLENDER  DEUTZIA  (D.  gracilis). — One  of  the  most 
beautiful  small  shrubs  with  delicate  white  flowers  in  abun- 
dant racemes.  Like  the  last,  it  should  be  grown  rather 
slowly  or  it  will  be  injured  during  the  winter.  A  slight 
protection  of  pine  boughs  or  straw  will  improve  the  size 
and  quantity  of  the  flowers. 

KOSE-FLOWERED  WEiGELA  (Diervilla  rosea),  Fig.  100. 
* — While  young  this  beautiful  shrub  is  very  satisfactory,  but 


ORNAMENTAL   SHRUBS,  VINES,  AND    HEDGE    PLANTS.    193 

after  a  few  years'  growth  it  becomes  irregular  in  outline. 
To  overcome  this  tendency  some  of  the  old  wood  should  be 


FIG.  100.— WEIGELA  (Diervilla  roseu\ 

cut  out  each  year  after  flowering,  which  will  result  in  the 
growth  of  young  vigorous  shoots  that  will  produce  an 
abundance  of  large  flowers. 

VARIEGATED-LEAVED  WEIGELA  (TT.  rosea,  variegata). — 
The  leaves  of   this  variety  are  beautifully  marked  with 


194  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

white,  yellow,  and  light  green;  not  so  rapid  in  growth  as 
the  last  and  the  flowers  are  of  a  lighter  color. 

Several  other  species  and  varieties  are  offered  by  the 
nurserymen,  but  none  of  them  are  more  valuable  than  the 
above. 

SILVER-THORN  OR  OLEASTER  (Eleagnus  longipes). — A 
comparatively  new  ornamental  shrub  with  fruit  of  a  bright 
red  color  which  is  very  ornamental.  It  ripens  in  July  and 
August  and  hangs  a  long  time  on  the  bushes.  It  is  almost 
perfectly  hardy,  easily  transplanted,  and  seems  to  succeed 
in  almost  any  soil. 


FIG.  101. — EXOCHORDA  GRANDIFLORA. 

STRAWBERRY-TREE  (Euonymus  atropurpurea). — A  tall- 
growing  shrub  or  small  tree  with  rich  dark  green  foliage 
and  a  showy  fruit,  the  outer  part  of  which  is  crimson  while 
the  inner  part  is  scarlet.  This  fruit  hangs  upon  the  bush 
nearly  all  winter  unless  eaten  by  birds. 

CORKY-BARKED  STRAWBERRY-TREE  (E.  alatus). — More 
compact  arid  bushy  than  the  last  and  with  a  richer  foliage, 
but  does  not  produce  so  much  fruit. 

EXOCHORDA  (Exocliorda  grandiflora),  Fig.  101. — One  of 


ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS,  VINES,  AND    HEDGE    PLANTS.    195 

the  best  of  the  recently  introduced  shrubs.  The  foliage  is 
of  a  glaucous  green  color  and  the  flowers  are  single,  pure 
white,  and  borne  in  large  clusters  and  masses.  It  is  hardy, 
very  showy,  and  free  from  disease  and  insects. 


FIG.  102.— GOLDEN-BELL  (ForsytJiia  viridissimd). 
GOLDEN-BELL  (ForsytJiia  viridissima),  Fig.  102. — The 
brightest  and  most  attractive  of  the  very  early  flowering 
shrubs.     The  flowers  are  of  the  brightest  yellow  and  pro- 
duced all  over  the  young  branches.     The  shoots  are  per- 


196  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

fectly  hardy,  but  in  seasons  when  the  peach-buds  are 
destroyed  by  cold  the  flower-buds  suffer  and  at  the  North 
fail  to  produce  flowers. 

FORTUNE'S  GOLDEN-BELL  (F.  Fortunii). — Produces 
more  abundant  and  larger  flowers  than  the  last. 

WEEPING  GOLDEN-BELL  (F.  suspensa). — Is  pendent  or 
weeping  in  habit  and  with  very  abundant  flowers.  In 
many  places  where  a  drooping  growth  is  desired  this  is 
much  superior  to  the  other  species. 

SILVER-BELL  (Halesia  tetraptera). — A  beautiful  shrub 
producing  pure  white  bell-shaped  flowers  much  like  the 
snowdrop,  whence  its  name. 

ROSE  OF  SHARON  (Hibiscus  Syriacus). — This  shrub, 
while  not  perfectly  hardy  north  of  New  York  City,  is 
valuable  on  account  of  its  large  showy  flowers,  which  open 
in  August  and  September.  If  grown  slowly  in  the  border 
or  lawn,  it  lives  to  considerable  age  and  makes  a  very  large 
shrub  or  small  tree.  The  flowers  vary  in  color  from  pure 
white  to  the  darkest  crimson  and  with  many  beautiful 
varieties  of  striped  or  mixed  colors. 

JAPANESE  HYDRANGEA  (Hydrangea  paniculata,  grandi- 
flora).  Fig.  103. — Of  the  many  beautiful  shrubs  introduced 
from  Japan  this  is  one  of  the  best,  most  easily  grown,  and 
largely  planted.  The  flowers,  coming  in  August  and 
September,  are  very  large  and  showy  and  last  a  long  time. 
If  gathered  at  just  the  right  stage  of  growth  the  flowers 
retain  their  beauty  and  freshness  for  a  long  time  and  make 
desirable  decorations  during  the  winter.  To  get  the  best 
results  in  growing  this  shrub,  the  new  growth  should  be 
cut  back  severely  in  the  fall  or  before  growth  begins  in  the 
spring,  in  many  cases  to  two  or  three  buds,  for  the  smaller 
the  number  of  buds  allowed  to  grow  the  stronger  the 


ORNAMENTAL   SHRUBS,  VINES,  AND    HEDGE    PLANTS.    197 

shoots,  and  the  size  of  the  panicles  will  be  in  proportion  to 
the  vigor  of  these  shoots. 


FIG.  103. — HARDY  HYDRANGEA  (Hydrangea  Paniculata, 
grandiflora). 

SHRUBBY  ST.  JOHN'S-WORT  (Hyper icumaureum). — One 
of  the  most  beautiful  of  the  flowering  shrubs,  the  flowers 
being  like  little  tassels  of  gold  and  the  foliage  of  a  rich 
glaucous  green.  It  is  not,  however,  a  long-lived  shrub,  re- 
quiring considerable  petting  after  five  or  six  years  of 
growth. 

TARTARIAN  HONEYSUCKLE  (Lonicera  Tartarica].  — 
Some  of  the  more  brilliantly  colored  flowered  varieties  of 


198  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

this  species  are  very  desirable.  It  makes  a  very  large, 
upright  shrnb,  with  pink  or  yellow  blossoms  that  are  fol- 
lowed by  bright  scarlet  berries. 

CALYCANTHUS,  sweet-scented  shrub,  strawberry-bush,  etc. 
(Calycantlius  Floridus),  Fig.  104. — A  very  hardy,  "vigorous- 


FIG.  104. — CALYCANTHUS  (Calycanthus  Floridus). 

growing  shrub  with  brown  or  chocolate-colored  very  sweet- 
scented  flowers.  It  is  easily  propagated  from  seed,  which 
it  produces  abundantly,  and  grows  well  on  almost  all  kinds 
of  soil ;  not  a  showy  shrnb,  but  desirable  for  the  fragrance 
of  its  flowers. 

MOCK-ORANGE  (Philadelphus  coronarius),  Fig.  105. — 
Often  called  the  syringa,  but  as  this  is  the  Latin  name  of 
the  lilac  it  cannot  be  properly  applied  to  this  plant.  It  is 
well  called  the  mock-orange,  for  its  flowers  somewhat 
resemble  the  orange-blossom,  and  are  equally  fragrant, 
though  with  not  so  delicate  a  perfume.  It  grows  to  a  large 
size,  but  retains  its  regular  rounded  bush  form  even  when 
of  great  age. 

GOLDEN-LEAVED  MOCK-ORANGE  (P.  <?.,  var.  aurea). — 
Very  similar  in  leaf  and  flower  to  the  last,  but  of  a  smaller 


ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS,  TINES,  AND   HEDGE    PLANTS.    199 

growth,  and  with  leaves  that  are  of  a  bright  golden  color 
when  young,  but  changing  to  a  light  green  during  the 
latter  part  of  the  summer.  In  contrast  with  the  purple 


FIG.  105. — MOCK-ORANGE  (PJiiladelphus  coronarius). 

barberry,  purple  filbert,  or  other  similarly  colored  foliage- 
shrubs  it  produces  most  beautiful  effects. 

LARGE-FLOWERED  MOCK-ORANGE  (P.  grandiflorus),  Fig. 
106. — A  shrub  of  large,  coarse  growth,  producing  conspic- 
uous single,  white,  non-odorous  flowers  the  last  of  June. 

WHITE-FRINGE  (Chionanthus  Virginicus),  Fig.  77. — 
One  of  the  most  beautiful  of  our  flowering  shrubs,  with  its 
somewhat  stiff  upright  branches  fringed  with  lace-like 
white  flowers.  Its  blossoms  last  but  a  short  time,  but  the 
heavy  dark  green  foliage  is  ornamental  all  summer.  If 
planted  in  too  rich  soil  it  is  sometimes  winter-killed,  and 
should  be  grown  rather  slowly  to  cause  a  more  thorough 
ripening  of  the  wood. 

PURPLE-FRINGE  (Rhus  cotinus).  Fig.  107. — The  beauti- 
ful mass  of  filaments  produced  about  the  flowers  and  fruit 


200 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


FIG.  106. —MOCK- CHANGE,  LAKGE-FLOWEKED  (Pkiladdpl 
grandiflorus). 


'tus 


FIG.  107.— PUHPLE-FRHTGE  (Rhw  cotinus). 


ORNAMENTAL   SHRUBS,  VINES,  AND    HEDGE    PLANTS.    201 

of  this  plant,  often  called  "  smoke  "  or  "  mist,"  is  a  most 
conspicuous  and  beautiful  object  in  well-grown  specimens 
on  the  lawn  or  in  the  garden.  To  succeed  best  it  must  be 
grown  slowly ;  if  forced  into  a  rapid  growth  in  a  rich  border 
it  is  likely  to  be  injured  by  cold  and  soon  die,  while  if 
grown  more  slowly  in  the  lawn  it  often  reaches  a  large  size, 
when  it  becomes  a  most  beautiful  object. 

CUT-LEAYED  SUMAC  (R.  glcibra,  var.  laciniatd). — This 
is  a  cut-leaved  form  of  our  native  smooth  sumac.  It  takes 
a  rather  straggling  form  and  needs  full  exposure  to  make 
it  grow  stocky  and  erect.  It  has  one  objectionable  feature 
common  to  all  of  the  native  species  of  sumacs, — that  of 
throwing  up  suckers  from  the  roots,  and  often  at  consider- 
able distance  from  the  original  shrub, — but  this  objection 
can  be  easily  overcome  by  pulling  up  the  suckers  (never 
cut  them  off  at  the  surface).  Its  beautiful  fern-like  leaves 
that  color  so  brilliantly  in  the  autumn  make  it  well  worth 
all  the  care  required  to  keep  it  in  good  form  and  within 
desired  limits. 

JAPAN  SUMAC  (I\.  Japonica,  var.  Osbeckii). — A  very 
large,  strong-growing  shrub  or  small  tree,  with  large  com- 
pound leaves  changing  to  beautiful  colors  in  the  autumn. 
The  panicles  of  flowers  are  very  large,  nearly  pure  white, 
and  open  very  late  in  the  summer. 

GOLDEN  ELDER  (Satribucus  nigra,  var.  aurea). — One  of 
the  brightest  golden-colored  shrubs,  the  leaves  retaining 
their  bright  color  longer  than  almost  any  other.  It  is, 
however,  rather  short-lived. 

RED-FRUITED  ELDER  (S.  pubens). — A  native  shrub, 
ornamental  both  in  flower  and  in  fruit.  Berries  in  large 
clusters  arid  bright  red. 

GOLDEN  SPIRJEA  (Spircea  opulifolia,  aurea}. — The  largest 


202 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


golden-leaved  shrub  we  have,  but  of  rather  coarse  growth 
and  the  leaves  soon  fade  to  a  light  green.  Desirable  as  a 
background  for  smaller  shrubs  of  a  darker  color. 


FIG.  108. — BRIDAL-WREATH  (Spircea  prunifolid). 

BRIDAL-WREATH  SPIRAEA  (8.  prunifolid)^  Fig.  108.— 
Qne  of  the  oldest  and  most  hardy  of  the  spiraeas  and  very 


ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS,  VINES,  AND    HEDGE    PLANTS.    203 

largely  planted.  It  produces  long,  slender  branches  that 
in  the  spring  are  covered  with  beautiful  white  double 
flowers.  These  branches  may  be  bent  around  so  as  to  form 
a  very  perfect  wreath,  whence  the  name.  It  has  the  habit 
of  producing  very  few  lateral  branches,  so  that  severe  prun- 
ing should  be  given  to  a  few  of  the  strongest  canes  after 
blooming  in  the  spring.  Xever  prune  the  spiraeas  in  the 
spring  before  blooming  if  an  abundance  of  flowers  is 
desired.  Like  all  the  other  species  of  this  genus,  the  flowers 
last  but  a  short  time. 

LOBED-LEAVED  SPIR^A  (S.  trilobatd). — A  dwarf,  com- 
pact grower,  producing  large  masses  of  white  flowers. 

BUMALD'S  SPIR^A  (S.  Japonica,  var.  Bumalda}. — A 
dwarf-growing  shrub,  with  large  quantities  of  rose-colored 
flowers. 

THUNBERG'S  SPIR^A  (S.  Thuribergii).  —  The  most 
graceful  and  beautiful  of  the  spiraea  while  young.  The 
foliage  is  fine  and  fern-like,  and  changes  to  a  beautiful 
golden-orange  color  late  in  the  autumn.  It  needs  cutting 
back  severely  to  cause  the  lower  branches  to  grow  with 
vigor. 

VAN  HOUTT'S  SPIR^A  (S.  Van  Houttii},  Fig.  100.— The 
finest  of  all  the  spiraeas.  It  is  dwarf  in  habit,  with  grace- 
ful pendulous  branches  that,  when  in  bloom,  are  weighted 
down  with  pure  white  blossoms.  The  flowers  are  of  very 
short  duration,  but  the  foliage  is  good. 

WATERER'S  SPIR^A  (S.  Jap.,  var.  "Antliony  Waterer  "). 
—Resembling  the  Bumalda,  but  with  the  most  beautiful 
large  clusters  of  pink  flowers,  and  continues  to  bloom 
throughout  the  summer  more  or  less  if  the  clusters  are  cut 
off  before  the  seed-vessels  mature. 

SNOWBERRY-SHRUB    (Symphoricarpus   racemosus).  —  A 


204 


LANDSCAPE    GAKDENING. 


very  pretty  old-fashioned  shrub,  the  white  berries  of  which 
are  ornamental  until  early  winter  and  especially  in  contrast 
with  the  fruit  of  the  closely  allied  species  S.  vulgaris,  the 
Indian  currant,  or  that  of  the  barberry. 


FIG.  109. — VAN  HOUTT'S  SPIR/EA  (Spircea  Van  Houttii). 

COMMON  LILAC  (Syringa  vulgaris). — This  is  a  very 
desirable  shrub  because  of  its  hardiness  and  the  many 
associations  connected  with  the  old  homesteads  of  the  earlier 
settlers  of  the  country.  Many  of  the  improved  varieties 
possess  more  beauty  than  the  original  types  and  are  equally 
hardy.  Among  the  best  are  Beranger,  co3rulea  superba  and 
nana,  Prof.  Sargent,  etc. 

PEKSIAN  LILAC  (S.  Persica). — This  lilac  is  of  medium 
size,  with  small,  bright  green  leaves  and  large  compound 
panicles  of  rather  brighter  flowers  than  the  common  species. 
It  is  also  rather  more  graceful  in  outline  than  the  latter 
and,  like  it,  has  a  great  many  varieties.  Among  the  best 
are  the  white  form  and  Rothmagensis  rubra. 

JAPAN  LILAC  (S.  Japonica). — The  largest  of  the  lilacs, 
making  a  small  tree.  The  leaves  are  large,  dark  green, 
and  the  very  large  panicles  of  white  flowers  are  produced  in 


ORNAMENTAL   SHRUBS,  VINES,  AND   HEDGE   PLANTS.   205 

June.     It   has   thus   far   proved   perfectly   hardy  and   is 
desirable. 

JOSIKEA'S  LILAC  (S.  Josikcea}.  —  Another  tree-like 
lilac,  somewhat  resembling  the  last,  but  producing  delicate 
pink  flowers  in  early  June. 

DOWNY  LILAC  (L.  villosa). — A  new  species  of  a  some 
what  tree-like  habit,   with  fragrant   light  purple   flowers 
which  change  to  almost  white. 


FIG.  110. — JAPANESE  SNOWBALL  ( Viburnum  plicatuni). 

CRANBERRY-SHRUB  (  Viburnum  opulus). — A  native  shrub 
with  numerous  conspicuous  sterile  flowers  intermixed  with 
the  fertile  ones,  followed  by  bright  red  or  scarlet  fruit  that 
hangs  on  the  branches  nearly  all  winter.  It  is  hardy  and 
succeeds  under  nearly  all  conditions.  The  variety  with  all 
sterile  flowers  is  known  as  the  "  common  snowball  "-bush, 


206  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

but  this  is  so  subject  to  the  attack  of  insects  that  it  has  been 
discarded  for  the  Japanese  species. 

JAPANESE  SNOWBALL  ( F.  plicatum).  Fig.  110. — The 
leaves  of  this  shrub  are  of  a  bright  green  color  and  with  a 
beautifully  plicated  or  plaited  surface;  the  sterile  flowers  are 
borne  in  large  clusters,  are  pure  white,  very  perfect,  and 
much  superior  to  the  native  snowball-bush.  It  is  difficult 
to  transplant  when  of  large  size,  but  young  shrubs  can  be 
transplanted  with  little  or  no  difficulty. 

Roses. 

More  people  appreciate  the  beauty  and  value  of  the  rose 
than  that  of  any  other  flower,  but  comparatively  few  suc- 
ceed in  growing  it  to  its  greatest  perfection.  It  succeeds 
best  in  a  deep  rich  soil,  rather  moist  and  of  somewhat  a 
clayey  nature.  More  persons  fail  in  growing  the  rose  from 
not  making  the  soil  rich  enough  than  from  any  other  cause. 

Perhaps  the  best  line  of  treatment  is  to  spade  the  bed  18 
to  24  inches  deep,  working  in  fine  rotted  cow  manure  and 
leaf  mould  to  the  full  depth,  and  every  fall  banking  up 
against  each  plant  a  foot  or  more  with  rich  stable  manure 
for  protection.  In  the  spring  this  manure  should  be 
spread  on  the  surface  of  the  bed  and  spaded  in,  and  if  the 
soil  is  not  too  thin  and  dry  a  good  growth  and  an  abun- 
dance of  blossoms  will  result. 

PRUNING. — In  pruning  the  work  may  be  done  either  in 
the  fall  or  in  March,  the  latter  time  being  generally  pre- 
ferred. In  this  work  the  bushes  should  be  so  pruned  as  to 
obtain  a  limited  number  of  as  strong  canes  as  possible. 
The  stronger  the  canes  the  larger  will  be  the  flowers.  All 
weak  shoots  should  be  either  severely  cut  back  or  entirely 
removed  and  the  strong  canes  headed  back  one  half  or  two 


ORNAMENTAL   SHRUBS,  VINES,  AND   HEDGE    PLANTS.    207 

thirds,  varying  the  treatment  somewhat  with  the  variety 
and  the  size  and  number  of  flowers  required;  some  varie- 
ties, especially  the  very  strong  growing  ones,  needing  less 
pruning  than  others,  but  with  all  varieties  the  smaller  the 
number  of  shoots  the  larger  will  be  the  flowers. 

WINTER  PROTECTION. — Banking  up  against  the  collar  of 
the  bushes  a  foot  or  more  with  soil  or  manure  should  be 
practised  with  all  outdoor  roses,  and  most  of  them  will  be 
much  benefited  by  tying  up  in  coarse  rye-straw  or  mats. 
Pine  boughs  set  up  closely  about  them  for  the  winter  will 
improve  the  quality  of  the  blossoms  very  greatly. 

VARIETIES.— We  may  divide  the  varieties  most  commonly 
grown  and  most  desirable  into  six  groups:  bedding-roses, 
hybrid  perpetuals,  moss,  climbing,  Japanese,  and  yellow  or 
Austrian  roses.  It  is  impossible  to  give  a  list  of  varieties 
that  will  succeed  in  all  localities  or  under  all  conditions, 
and  each  grower  must  decide  largely  what  varieties  will  be 
the  most  satisfactory  for  him  by  the  success  of  growers  in 
his  immediate  vicinity.  We,  however,  give  a  list  that  will 
prove  valuable  under  a  great  variety  of  conditions. 

BEDDING-ROSES,  Fig.  111. — Bride,  Bridesmaid,  Etoile 
de  Lyons,  La  France,  Md.  Plantier,  Meteor. 

HYBRID  PERPETUALS. — Anne  de  Diesbach,  Clias.  Le- 
febvre,  Gen.  Jacqueminot,  Mabel  Morrison,  Marie  Beau- 
man,  Marshall  P.  Wilder,  Mrs.  John  Laing,  Prince  C.  de 
Rohan,  Ulrich  Brunner,  Victor  Verdier. 

MOSS-ROSES,  Fig.  11:2. —  Common  Moss,  Crested  Moss, 
Adelaide,  White  Bath. 

CLIMBING  ROSES,  Fig.  113. — Baltimore  Belle,  Queen 
of  Prairie,  Crimson  Rambler. 

JAPAN  ROSES,  Fig.  114. — Rosa  rugosa  (white  and  red), 
R.  Multi-flora,  Dawsorfs,  R.  Wichuriana. 


208 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 


FIG.  111.— BEDDING-ROSES. 


FIG.  113.— MOSS-ROSE. 


ORNAMENTAL   SHRUBS,  VINES,  AND    HEDGE    PLANTS.    209 

YELLOW  OR  AUSTRIAN. — These  beautiful  roses  are  not 
long-lived  and  require  careful  pruning  to  produce  an 
abundance  of  blossoms.  Only  the  weak  shoots  should  be 
cut  away,  leaving  the  strong  shoots  of  one  and  two  seasons' 


FIG.  113. — CLIMBING  ROSES. 


growth  for  the  production  of  flowers.     The  two  varieties 
most  commonly  grown  are  the  Austrian  and  Harrison. 

Evergreen  Shrubs. 

If  we  should  omit  the  evergreen  shrubs  from  our  list  of 
ornamantel  material,  we  should  lose  much  that  is  most 
beautiful  and  very  popular  ou  all  the  best  places  in  the 
country.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  great  beauty  of  the 
kalmias  and  the  rhododendron;  they  add  so  much  beauty 
and  finish  to  every  place  where  used.  In  our  climate, 
where  the  sun  shines  with  great  fierceness,  they  do  not  sue- 


210 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


ceed  except  under  conditions  of  some  shelter  from  the  hot 
sun  and  drying  winds.  If  possible,  naturally  protected 
locations  should  be  selected,  but  where  these  are  not  avail- 
able artificial  protection  during  the  winter  must  be  pro- 
vided by  means  of  pine  boughs,  boxes,  etc.,  set  up  around 


FIG.  114. — JAPANESE  ROSE  (Rosa  rugosa). 

them.  Too  close  covering  should  be  avoided,  as  with  a  very 
close  box,  barrel,  or  close  straw  covering.  All  that  is 
required  is  shelter  from  fierce  drying  winds  and  the  burn- 
ing sun  during  the  winter.  If  a  box  is  used,  it  should  be 
with  openings  on  the  north  or  west  side,  to  allow  a  free 


ORNAMENTAL   SHRUBS,  TINES,  AND   HEDGE   PLANTS.   211 

circulation  of  air  about  them.     Some  of  the  best  varieties 

are 

Boxwood.  Rhododendron  Maxima. 

Laurel,  Mountain.  Catawbiense. 

Holly,  Am.  Andromeda. 

BOXWOOD  (Buxus  semper vir ens]. — This  little  beautiful 
evergreen  shrub  is  fast  becoming  extinct  in  the  northern 
sections  of  the  Middle  and  Eastern  States,  where  a  quarter 
of  a  century  ago  it  was  largely  used  for  a  low  hedge  or 
border  or  as  specimen  plants.  It  succeeds  best  in  a  rather 
moist,  somewhat  shaded  place,  but  soon  fails  where  planted 
in  thin  soil  or  a  southern  exposure.  Where  a  low,  formal 
outline  is  desired  for  edges  of  walks  or  beds,  it  serves  a  good 
purpose,  but  lacks  the  graceful  natural  beauty  of  the  laurel 
or  Mahonia. 

MOUNTAIN-LAUREL  (Kalmia  latifolia).  —  One  of  the 
most  beautiful  evergreen  shrubs  in  the  world,  found  grow- 
ing wild  in  nearly  every  State  east  of  the  Rockies  in  hilly 
or  mountainous  regions.  It  succeeds  best  in  partial  shade 
or  cool  northern  slopes  and  in  rather  moist  soil.  It  is 
difficult  to  transplant,  and  if  taken  from  the  fields  or  woods 
only  small  plants  must  be  used  and  these  must  be  dug  with 
a  considerable  bog  of  earth  upon  the  roots.  If  planted  in 
a  very  much  exposed  situation,  protection  of  pine  boughs 
should  be  given  during  the  winter. 

AMERICAN  HOLLY  (Ilex  opaca). — A  native  shrub  with 
leaves  and  berries  closely  resembling  the  European  holly. 
In  exposed  places  north  of  Washington,  D.  C.,  the  leaves 
turn  dark  brown  during  the  winter  and  are  often  injured  by 
the  hot  sun.  Should  be  planted  in  shelter,  shaded  from 
the  hot  sun  and  protected  during  the  winter  with  pine 
boughs. 


212  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

RHODODENDRON,  GREAT  LAUREL  (R.  maxima). — A 
native  shrub  found  growing  in  shady  places  along  the 
coast  from  Maine  to  Florida.  Not  very  much  used,  but 
would  serve  a  good  purpose  if  planted  in  the  shade  in  rather 
moist,  porous  soil. 

MOUNTAIN-RHODODENDRON  (R.  Catawbiense),  Fig.  115. 
— The  most  showy  of  all  of  the  flowering  shrubs  when  in 


FIG.  115. — RHODODENDRON  CATAWBIENSE. 

bloom  and  during  the  winter  on  account  of  its  large  dark 
green  leaves.  It  succeeds  best  in  a  rather  moist,  fibrous 
soil,  but  does  well  in  almost  any  kind  if  it  is  made  porous, 
not  too  dry,  and  if  the  plants  are  sheltered  from  the  burn- 
ing sun  during  the  winter.  While  young  especially,  pine 
boughs  or  some  other  protection  should  be  put  up  around 
them  to  keep  the  leaves  from  burning  and  to  keep  off  fierce 
drying  winds. 

The  number  of  varieties  offered  by  nurserymen  is  very 
large,  but  a  comparatively  small  number  of  them  are  hardy 


ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS,  VINES,  AND    HEDGE    PLANTS.    213 

in  northern  Xe»v  England.  Some  of  the  best  varieties  for 
general  planting  are  Album  elegans,  Everestianum,  Superbd 
elegans,  Roseum  elegans,  Speciosa,  etc. 

ANDROMEDA  (Andromeda  floribunda). — A  very  pretty 
shrnb,  producing  an  abundance  of  white  flowers  in  the 
early  spring.  Kequires  much  the  same  treatment  as  the 
rhododendron. 

Climbing  Vines. 

Without  climbing  vines  many  beautiful  homes  would 
present  a  sad  and  unprotected  picture  during  our  hot 
summers.  They  grow  quickly,  cover  verandas,  porticoes, 
porches,  arbors,  walls,  fences,  etc.,  with  a  living  green  that 
is  far  more  beautiful  than  any  artificial  structure  and 
affording  grateful  shade  during  oar  hot  summer  days. 
Fig.  116  shows  a  vine-covered  coltage  in  June,  covered  with 
roses,  Actinidia  arguta  and  Ampelopsis  Virginiana,  with  a 
group  of  ferns  at  the  foot  of  the  porch  on  the  right.  On 
the  left  is  a  large  specimen  of  Pliiladelplnis  coronarius, 
while  on  the  right  is  one  of  Pltiladelplius  grandiflora.  Fig. 
117,  vine-covered  cottage  in  April.  Among  the  best  of 
this  group  are  the  following: 

Woodbine,  Japanese.  Honeysuckle,  Japanese. 

"          American.  Wistaria,  Chinese. 
Clematis  or  Virgin's- bower.  "         White. 

"         White.  Kokwa  or  Actinidia. 

"         Jackman's.  Trumpet-creeper. 

"         Jap.  Sweet-scented. 

WOODBINE  (Ampelopsis  quinquefolia). — This  beautiful 
native  vine  is  very  useful  for  covering  arbors,  trellises, 
verandas,  fences,  half-dead  trees,  stumps,  etc.  It  is  a 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

rapid  grower,  is  beautiful  in  foliage  and  in  fruit,  especially 
in  its  autumnal  tints.  It  is  also  free  from  insect  or  fungous 
attacks,  but  requires  some  support  on  smooth  surfaces,  as  it 
reaches  large  size,  the  tendrils  not  being  strong  enough  to 
hold  up  its  increasing  weight. 

JAPANESE  WOODBINE  (A.  tricuspidata,  var.  Veitcliii), 
Fig.    118. — By  far  the  finest  vine  we  have  for  covering 


FIG.  118.— JAPANESE  WOODBINE  (Ampelopsis  tricuspidata,  var. 
Veitchii). 

stone  and  brick  buildings,  walls,  etc.  It  grows  rapidly, 
clings  firmly  by  its  numerous  disk- tendrils,  and  does  not 
run  across  openings  formed  by  doors  and  windows.  It 
colors  up  most  beautifully  in  the  autumn  and  is  easily 
propagated  from  seeds  or  cuttings. 

VIRGIN 'S-BOWER   (Clematis   Virginiana). — A  beautiful 
native  climbing  shrub,  with  large  clusters  of  white  flowers 


= 


ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS,    VINES,  AND    HEDGE    PLANTS.    215 

in  July  followed  in  September  by  the  beautiful  tasselled 
fruit.  Not  much  planted  in  cultivated  grounds,  but  is 
worthy  of  cultivation  in  even  the  most  pretentious  places, 


and  would  be  much  more  largely  used  were  it  not  so  com- 
mon along  the  roadsides  and  fences. 

JACKMAN'S  CLEMATIS   (C.  Jackmanii),  Figs.  119. — A 
beautiful  climbing  vine,   but,   like  all  of   the   species   of 


216  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

the  clematis,  the  canes  are  very  weak  and  easily  injured 
or  broken.  The  flowers  are  intense  violet-purple,  large, 
and  much  out  of  proportion  to  the  weak  vine.  When 
planted  in  a  sheltered  place  with  wire  netting  to  protect  it 
from  being  broken,  it  often  grows  well  for  several  years, 
but  the  average  experience  with  it  is  that  it  is  destroyed  in 
one  way  or  another  after  a  few  years'  growth. 


FIG.  120. — JAPANESE  HONEYSUCKLE  (Lonicera  Japonica  Halliand). 

WHITE  CLEMATIS  (C.  Henryii),  Fig.  119. — Flowers  of 
the  same  size  and  form  as  the  last,  but  pure  white  in  color. 

JAPANESE  OR  SWEET-SCENTED  CLEMATIS  (0.  paniculata) , 
Fig.  119. — A  rapid-growing  vine,  producing  clusters  of  star- 
shaped  sweet-scented  white  flowers  in  wonderful  profusion 
in  September.  A  promising  addition  to  our  list  of  late- 
flowering  climbing  plants, 


ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS,    VINES,  AND    HEDGE    PLANTS.    217 

JAPANESE  HONEYSUCKLE  (Lonicera  Japonica  Halliana), 
Fig.  120. — This  vine  has  the  advantage  that  it  will 
' '  grow  ' '  under  almost  any  condition.  The  flowers  are 
yellow,  changing  to  a  pure  white,  and  are  fragrant  and 
abundant  from  June  to  September.  It  should  be  trained 
to  wire  netting  or  some  other  support,  for  if  allowed  to  lie 
on  the  ground  every  branch  will  take  root  and  it  becomes 
difficult  to  eradicate  it,  except  by  constant  pulling  and 
hoeing  up  of  all  suckers  not  desired.  With  a  slight  protec- 
tion of  leaves,  straw,  or  pine  boughs,  or  by  the  vines  lying 
on  the  ground,  the  leaves  remain  perfectly  green  all  winter, 
but  in  full  exposure  they  turn  brown  during  the  latter  part 
of  winter  and  are  anything  but  ornamental.  This  is  a 
valuable  shrub  for  covering  dry  or  steep  embankments 
which  are  difficult  to  cover  with  grass. 


FIG.  121. — CHINESE  WISTARIA  (  Wistaria  sinensis). 


CHINESE  WISTARIA  ( Wistaria  sinensis),  Fig.  121. — 
One  of  the  most  rapid  growing  vines,  producing  large 
pendent  panicles  of  light  blue  flowers  in  great  profusion. 
It  is  one  of  the  few  vines  that  will  twine  around  large  sup- 
ports, pillars  of  verandas,  or  arbors. 


218  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

WHITE  WISTARIA  (jr.  s.,  var.  alba). — Like  the  last  in 
growth,  but  producing  white  flowers. 

KOKWA  OR  ACTINIDIA  (Actiniclia  arguta). — More  vigor- 
ous even  than  the  wistaria  and  with  better  foliage,  but  the 
flowers  are  inconspicuous.  It  will  cover  an  arbor  or  trellis 
more  quickly  than  any  vine  we  have.  Some  of  the  vines 
produce  a  small  green  fruit  that  one  soon  learns  to  like. 
Native  of  Japan. 

Another  species  of  Kokwa,  A.  polygama,  has  been  intro- 
duced resembling  the  last-named  species,  not  so  vigorous, 
but  the  leaves  at  the  ends  of  the  growing  shoots  change  on 
the  upper  surface  to  a  glistening  white,  making  it  a  most 
strikingly  beautiful  vine.^  Cats  are  especially  fond  of  it, 
and  while  young  protection  of  wire  netting  needs  to  be  put 
up  around  to  keep  them  from  tearing  the  vines  in  pieces. 


FIG.  122. —TRUMPET-CREEPER  (Bignonia  radicans). 


TRUMPET-CREEPER  (Bignonia  radicans},  Fig.  122. — 
Where  hardy,  this  is  a  very  beautiful  and  satisfactory 
climber,  though  it  will  not  hold  itself  to  the  walls  of  build- 
ings and  trellis-supports  as  well  as  many  others.  North 
of  42°  of  latitude  it  must  be  protected  during  the  winter 


ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS,  VINES,  AND    HEDGE    PLANTS.    219 

with  some  light,  airy  covering  or  be  grown  slowly  in  grass 
borders.  Tbe  trumpet-shaped  flowers  of  a  deep  orange-red 
are  borne  in  large  clusters  and  form  very  pleasing  contrasts 
with  the  dark  green  foliage. 

Hedge-plants.* 

Hedge-plants  are  used  for  two  purposes,  i.e.,  to  serve  as 
a  boundary-line  that  shall  be  more  natural  and  ornamental 
than  a  stone  wall  or  fence,  and  as  a  protection  from  animal 
or  other  trespassers;  and  if  either  of  these  is  a  necessity  a 
well-kept  hedge  serves  a  very  good  purpose,  though  there 
are  few,  if  any,  places  where  the  fence,  wall  or  hedge  even 
can  add  much  to  naturally  beautiful  surroundings.  Among 
the  best  trees  and  shrubs  for  this  purpose  are  the  following: 

Locust,  Honey.  Rose,  Japanese. 

Arbor-vitae,  Siberian.  Privet. 

Hemjock-spruce.  Buckthorn. 

Boxwood.  Barberry,  Common. 
Quince,  Japanese.  Purple. 

SIBERIAN  ARBOR-YIT.E  (Thuja  occidentalism  rar.  Si- 
lerica),  Fig.  94,  page  18-i. — Already  described  under 
4 'Evergreen  Trees." 

HEMLOCK-SPRUCE  (Abies  Canadensis). — Described  under 
"  Evergreen  Trees."  Must  be  planted  in  a  deep,  cool  soil 
with  some  protection  from  cold  northwest  winds. 

BOXWOOD  (Buxus  sempervirens) .  —  Described  under 
"  Evergreen  Shrubs."  Desirable  for  a  small,  low  hedge  or 
border. 

JAPAN  QUINCE  (Cydonia  Japonica),  Fig.  99,  page  192. 
— One  of  the  most  rapid  growing  and  hardy  of  our  shrubs 

*  For  treatment  of  hedges  see  page  80. 


'^20  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

and  especially  valuable  for  hedges.  It  requires  considerable 
care  to  keep  it  in  perfect  form  and  should  be  severely 
headed  in  at  planting  to  make  it  throw  up  numerous  shoots 
at  the  base,  without  which  a  good  hedge  cannot  be  made. 
It  is  not  a  shrub  that  will  bear  as  close  pruning  as  some 
others,  but  if  allowed  to  take  a  natural  bushy  form  it 
is  very  beautiful  in  flower  and  has  a  rich  dark  green 
foliage. 

HONEY-LOCUST  (Gleditchia  triacantJios). — None  of  our 
deciduous  trees  makes  a  hedge  that  is  sure  to  turn  animals 
or  the  small  boy  so  effectually  as  this,  when  properly 
treated.  As  with  most  trees  or  large-growing  shrubs,  severe 
pruning  is  required  to  give  them  the  strong  growth  of 
numerous  branches  at  the  base,  and  then  each  succeeding 
year  if  it  be  cut  back  from  six  inches  to  one  foot  longer  than 
the  last  it  soon  forms  a  dense  mass  of  strong  shoots  near  the 
ground,  covered  with  numerous  branching  spines. 

JAPAN  ROSE  (Rosa  multiflora). — This  very  strong  grow- 
ing rose  promises  to  become  a  valuable  hedge-plant.  On 
account  of  its  vigor  of  growth  and  the  numerous  spines  it 
will  turn  animals,  fruit-thieves,  or  other  trespassers,  and  is 
ornamental  in  flower  and  fruit.  In  habit  of  growth  it  is 
compact,  thrives  in  very  poor  soil,  and  as  yet  has  never 
been  injured  by  cold  in  the  vicinity  of  Amherst  and  other 
sections  of  Massachusetts. 

PRIVET  (Ligustrum  vulgare). — A  neat,  compact  shrub, 
that  stands  pruning  perhaps  quite  as  well  as  anything  we 
have.  The  same  treatment  as  given  for  the  Japan  quinces 
and  other  hedge-plants  is  needed  as  to  early  formation  of 
lateral  branches.  Old  hedges  of  this  species  that  have  lost 
their  lower  branches  or  that  have  grown  many  years  at  the 
top  only  may  be  renovated  by  cutting  down  to  within  6  to 


ORNAMENTAL   SHRUBS,  VINES,  AND   HEDGE   PLANTS.    221 

10  inches  of  the  ground  in  the  spring  before  growth 
begins,  when  numerous  new,  strong  shoots  will  come  out 
from  the  stubs  and  soon  a  new  and  well-formed  hedge  will 
result. 

BUCKTHORN  (Rhamnus  catharticus).  —  Somewhat  re- 
sembling the  last  in  habit  of  growth,  is  hardy  and  tough, 
and  stands  shearing  well. 

COMMON  BARBERRY  (Berber is  vulgaris). — This  may  be 
used  as  an  ornamental  hedge  and  when  grown  of  large  size 
becomes  protective.  The  more  strong  branches  that  can  be 
secured  at  the  start  of  the  hedge  the  better.  Close  prun- 
ing will  not  give  as  good  results  with  this  species  as  the 
more  natural  growth  of  the  bush  obtained  by  cutting  out 
here  and  there  a  cane  to  correct  the  form  of  each  shrub  and 
to  cause  it  to  thicken  up  and  branch  low. 

PURPLE  BARBERRY  (B.  v.,  var.  purpurea). — This  was 
fully  described  under  "Ornamental  Shrubs."  Not  quite  so 
vigorous  as  the  last,  nor  does  it  make  quite  so  fine  a  hedge, 
though  the  purple  foliage  and  the  golden  pendent  blossoms 
are  very  beautiful. 

FLOWERING  HEDGES. — Spiraeas,  hydrangias,  lilacs,  roses, 
and  many  other  flowering  shrubs  may  be  used  for  hedges 
and  often  very  pleasing  results  be  obtained.  To  make  the 
best  show,  they  should  be  planted  at  sufficient  distance  to 
give  each  plant  full  development,  and  they  should  be  en- 
couraged to  make  numerous  branches  at  the  base.  The 
different  species  of  shrubs  will  require  somewhat  different 
treatment  as  to  pruning  to  produce  the  largest  show  of 
blossoms.  (See  Pruning  Hedges  and  Shrubs,  pages  79  and 
83.)  They  may  be  made  of  one  kind,  as  the  hydrangias, 
lilacs,  spiraeas,  etc.,  or  many  species  may  be  planted  together. 
The  largest  should  be  planted  in  the  middle  of  the  group 


222 

or  in  the  rear  of  the  border  when  the  hedge  is  made  of 
considerable  width.  The  advantage  of  the  mixed  grouping 
is  that  something  may  be  had  in  bloom  at  nearly  all  seasons 
of  the  year,  but  it  will  be  almost  impossible  to  make  as 
even  and  true  outline  as  with  shrubs  of  one  kind. 


CHAPTER   XIII. 


HARDY  HERBACEOUS  PLANTS-TENDER  BEDDING-PLANTS 
—TENDER   CLIMBERS   AND   SUBTROPICAL   PLANTS. 

LOXG  lists  of  hardy  herbaceous  plants  are  given  in  the 
catalogues  of  many  nurserymen,  and  a  large  proportion  of 
the  species  and  varieties  advertised  are  valuable  under 
proper  conditions  of  soil,  exposure,  and  care,  but  the 
majority  will  not  give  satisfaction  under  ordinary  treatment 
given  by  the  amateur,  and  in  the  following  list  I  shall 
only  describe  a  few  of  the  most  desirable  and  easily  grown. 


Paeonia,  Chinese. 

Tree. 

"         Cut-leaved. 
Phlox,  Garden. 

"       Dwarf  or  Moss-pink. 
Hollyhock. 
Anemone,  Japanese. 
Columbine. 
Aster,  Native. 
Spiraae,  Japanese. 
Daisy,  English. 
Poppy.  Plume. 
Lily-of-the-valley. 
Fraxinella. 
Carnation-pink. 
Plantain-lily. 
Mist-plant. 
Sunflower,  Hardy. 
Golden  Glow,  Rudbeckia. 


Iris,  Japanese. 

"     German. 
Poppy,  Oriental. 
Feverfew,  Hardy. 
Bloodroot. 
Wake-robin. 
Pansy. 

Violet,  English. 
Yucca. 
Lily,  Golden-banded. 

"      Lance-leaved. 

"      Garden  Easter. 

"      Long-flowered  Easter. 

"      Harris,  Easter. 

"      Turk's-cap. 

' '      Bateman's. 
Dutch  Bulbs. 
Gladiolus. 

223 


224  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

CHINESE  P^ONIAS  (Pceonia  sinensis). — The  finest  of  all 
the  paeonies  in  that  it  is  hardy,  vigorous  in  growth,  and 
gives  an  almost  endless  variety  of  color  and  forms  of  flowers. 
For  massing  it  is  one  of  the  most  showy  plants,  but  the 
foliage  dies  down  during  the  last  of  July  and  early  August, 
and  the  beds  must  be  filled  with  something  ornamental 
after  this  occurs.  They  are  easily  propagated:  a  single 
clump  after  three  or  four  years  of  growth  may  be  so  divided 
as  to  make  from  five  to  ten  plants.  After  having  been 
grown  four  or  five  years  in  one  bed  they  are  much  improved 
by  this  division,  manuring  the  bed,  and  replanting  only  one 
good  clump  of  two  or  three  eyes  where  the  old  clump  grew. 
The  fall,  September  or  October,  or  very  early  in  the  spring 
is  the  best  time  for  transplanting.  Desirable  varieties  may 
be  obtained  from  almost  any  nursery. 

TREE-P.SONY  (P.  montans). — The  flowers  of  this  species 
are  rather  more  delicately  shaded  and  beautiful  than  the 
last.  It  produces  a  woody  stem  that  continues  to  increase 
until  under  favorable  conditions  it  reaches  a  height  of  2  to 
4  feet.  While  generally  considered  hardy,  it  will  be  much 
benefited  if  protected  by  a  wrap  of  rye-straw  or  pine 
boughs  set  up  about  them. 

CUT-LEAVED  P^ONY  (P.  tenuifolia],  Fig.  123.— This 
species  has  finely  cut  foliage  and  dark  crimson  flowers  that 
open  considerably  in  advance  of  the  other  species. 

GARDEN  PHLOX  (Phlox paniculatd},  Fig.  124. — One  of 
the  most  easily  grown  hardy  perennials,  and  the  large 
number  of  beautiful  varieties  now  offered  makes  it  especially 
desirable.  The  growth  and  size  of  the  flowers  are  much 
improved  if  the  clumps  are  divided  and  transplanted,  as 
described  for  the  paeony,  once  in  four  or  five  years.  In 
selecting  varieties  dull  colors  should  be  avoided,  as  the 


FIG.  124.—  GARDEN  PHLOX  (Phlox  paniculntu) 

(To  face  paye 


HARDY    HERBACEOUS   PLANTS,    ETC. 


22; 


flowers  lose  their  brilliancy  after  having  been  open  a  little 
while,  and  it  is  only  the  most  brilliantly  colored  ones  that 
are  satisfactory. 


FIG.  123.— CUT-LEAVED  P^EONIA  (Pceonia  tcnnifolia). 

M OSS-PINK  (P.  subulata),  Fig.  125. — This  early-bloom- 
ing little  plant  produces  snch  a  wealth  of  flowers  that  it 


FIG.  12o.— MOSS-PISK  (Phlox  subulata). 


226  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

should  be  planted  wherever  it  will  succeed.  It  thrives  best 
in  a  rather  dry  location,  and  very  pretty  designs  may  be 
made  by  arrangement  of  the  pink-  and  white-flowered 
varieties. 

HOLLYHOCK  (Althea  rosea),  Fig.  126. — Some  of  the  most 
beautiful  results  are  sometimes  obtained  by  grouping  this 


FIG    126. — HOLLYHOCK  (Althea  rosea). 

flower  with  a  suitable  background,  as  a  sloping  lawn,  a 
cluster  of  evergreens,  or  other  trees  or  shrubs  with  a  dark 
green  foliage.  The  plant  is  a  biennial  and  succeeds  best  if 
planted  in  new  soil  each  time.  The  seed  sown  in  the  open 
ground  in  May  will  produce  plants  that  will  bloom  the  fol- 
lowing season,  and  under  favorable  conditions  bloom  a 
second  season,  but  the  best  flowers  are  always  produced  the 
second  season  from  seed.  The  hollyhock  rust  is  sometimes 
very  injurious,  and  may  be  kept  in  check  by  spraying  with 
the  Bordeaux  mixture  or  largely  prevented  by  planting  on 
new  soil  each  season. 

JAPANESE  ANEMONE  (Anemone  Japonica) .-    This  is  a 
beautiful  addition  to  our   list   of  autumn-blooming  her- 


HARDY    HERBACEOUS    PLANTS,   ETC.  227 

baceous  plants,  as  it  blooms  from  September  to  Xovember, 
when  few  other  plants  are  in  bloom.  The  flowers  are  large 
and  showy  and  of  two  colors,  red  or  rose-color  and  white. 

COLUMBIXE  (Aquilegia  v-ulgaris).  Fig.  127. — The  com- 
mon garden  columbine  varies  very  much  in  color  and  form 
of  flowers  and  is  very  easily  grown-.  It  is  best  to  sow  seeds 


FIG.  127. — COLUMBINE  (Aquilegia). 

every  two  or  three  years  to  renew  the  stock.  The  Rocky- 
Mountain  yellow  (A.  chrysantha)  and  the  blue  (A.  cceruled) 
succeed  well  in  rather  moist  locations. 

NATIVE  ASTERS. — Many  species  of  our  native  asters  are 
very  beautiful,  and  under  proper  conditions  succeed  in 
cultivation.  Under  the  shade  of  avenue-  or  street-trees 
Aster  cordifolius  and  A.  undulatus  grow  beautifully  in 


228 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


the  Northern  States.  Other  species  grow  in  dry  and  ex- 
posed places,  while  still  others  prefer  a  moist  and  somewhat 
sheltered  place,  and  in  the  selection  of  species  one  must 
take  those  that  naturally  grow  under  conditions  of  soil 
intended  to  decorate.  Young  plants  should  be  selected  if 
possible,  and  late  fall  or  early  spring  is  the  best  time  to 
transplant. 

JAPANESE  SPIR^A  (Astilbe  Japonica). — A  very  beautiful 
and  easily  grown  plant,  well  adapted  to  growth  in  beds  or 
borders  and  also  much  used  for  forcing.  It  produces 
beautiful  feathery  panicles  of  pure  white  flowers  in  June. 
The  clumps  need  dividing  and  replanting  once  in  three 
or  four  years.  The  variety  "  grandiflora  "  is  superior  to 
the  common  form. 

ENGLISH  DAISY  (Bellis  Perennis),  Fig.  128. — A  beauti- 
ful little  flower,  varying  from  white  through  all  shades  of 


FIG.  128.— ENGLISH  DAISY  (Bellis  perennis). 

pink  to  the  deepest  red,  easily  grown,  and  rapidly  propa- 
gated from  seed  or  by  division.  It  requires  slight  protec- 
tion of  pine  boughs  to  keep  it  from  winter-killing. 


HARDY    HERBACEOUS   PLANTS,   ETC. 


229 


PLUME-POPPY  (Bocconia  Japonica).  —  No  herbaceous 
perennial  plant  produces  more  subtropical  effect  than  this 
one.  The  leaves  are  large,  deeply  lobed,  of  a  glaucous 
green  color,  and  the  flowers  are  plume-like  panicles  followed 
by  numerous  pods  that  continue  its  beauty  for  a  long  time, 
It  grows  from  5  to  8  feet  high  and  spreads  rapidly,  but  not 
to  such  an  extent  as  to  be  uncontrollable.  By  pulling  out 
one  suckers  in  the  spring  that  come  up  beyond  the  limits 


FIG.  129.— LILY  OF-THE- VALLEY  (Convallaria  majali*). 

of  the  space  desired  that  it  shall  occupy  it  can  be  easily 
kept  within  bounds,  and  this  thinning  will  result  in  a  more 
vigorous  growth  of  the  remaining  canes.  Only  a  limited 


230 


LANDSCAPE  GARDENING. 


number  of  the  shoots  that  start  in  the  spring  should  be 
allowed  to  grow.  All  others  should  be  pulled  out  or 
broken  off  as  soon  as  they  appear. 

LILY  OF-THE-YALLEY  (Convctllaria  majalis),  Fig.  129. 
— This  little  flowering  plant,  so  much  songht  for  and  so 
beautiful,  may  be  easily  grown  in  shaded  places.  It  spreads 
rapidly  and  needs  thinning  out  occasionally  to  insure  an 
abundant  bloom.  A  light  dressing  of  compost  in  the  fall 
will  improve  the  size  and  number  of  the  flowers  produced. 

FRAXINELLA  OR  GAS-PLANT  (Dictamnus  Fraxinella).— 
A  very  hardy  old  garden-plant,  producing  large  terminal 


FIG.  130.— CARNATION- PINK  (Dianthus  caryophyllus). 

racemes  of  flowers.  There  are  two  forms:  the  pink-  and 
the  white-flowered.  It  is  called  the  gas-plant  because  of 
an  explosion  that  occurs  when  a  lighted  match  or  lamp  is 


HARDY   HERBACEOUS   PLANTS,    ETC.  231 

held  close  up  to  the  open  flowers.  This  was  supposed  to 
be  an  explosion  of  gas,  bnt  close  investigation  has  shown 
that  it  is  the  result  of  the  combustion  of  an  easily  ignited 
wax  secreted  on  the  petals. 

CARNATION-PINKS  (Dianthus  caryophylhis),  Fig.  130. 
— Some  of  the  varieties  of  the  carnation-pink  are  hardy, 
very  beautiful,  and  easily  grown  from  seed  and  also  by  slips. 
To  have  them  go  through  the  winter  uninjured  they  should 
be  given  a  slight  protection  of  straw  or  pine  boughs. 

PLANTAIN-LILY  (Funkia  subcordata) ,  Fig.  131.  —  A 
most  beautiful  old  garden-plant  with  large  cordate  leaves 


FIG.  131. — PLANTAIN-LILY  (Funkia  sub-cordata). 

of  a  light  green  color,  producing  clusters  of  pure  white 
flowers.  Very  ornamental  in  the  garden  and  succeeds  well 
in  tubs  or  boxes  on  the  lawn  or  veranda. 

MIST- PLANT  (Gypsopliylla  paniculatd). — A  tall  plant 
with  small  glaucous  leaves  and  a  very  large  open  panicle  of 
minute  white  flowers  that  are  very  pretty  for  lightening  up 
bouquets  and  arranging  with  all  kinds  of  flowers.  It  is 
perfectly  hardy  and  requires  but  little  care  to  keep  it  grow- 
ing to  perfection. 


232  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

HARDY  SUNFLOWER  (HeUanthus  multiflorus),  Fig.  132. 
— One  of  the  most  striking  of  the  hardy  perennial  plants. 


FIG,  132. — HARDY  SUNFLOWER  (Helianthus  multiflorus). 

The  flowers  are  large,  perfectly  double,  of  a  golden-yellow 
color,  and  produced  in  great  profusion.  Its  blossoms  are 
rather  coarse  and  do  not  last  long,  but  their  brightness  and 
perfect  form  make  them  valuable  additions  to  large  places. 
A  slight  protection  of  coarse  manure  over  the  roots  is  some- 
times needed. 

GOLDEN-GLOW  (Rudbecliia  laciniata). — Similar  to  the 
last,  but  with  a  more  brilliant  and  not  quite  so  double  yellow 
flower,  very  hardy,  easily  grown,  and  will  be  very  popular 
for  a  time. 

JAPANESE  IRIS  (Iris  Kcempheri),  Fig.  133. — Next  to  the 
chrysanthemum,  this  species  of  iris  is  the  most  popular 
flower  in  Japan,  and  it  well  deserves  the  esteem  with  which 
it  is  held  by  this  most  progressive  Eastern  nation.  The 
flowers  are  very  large,  often  six  inches  across,  of  varying 


HARDY  HERBACEOUS  PLAKTS,  ETC.  233 

colors  and  markings,  ranging  from  pure  white  through  ail 
the  shades  of  pink,  dark  red,  and  purple  to  almost  black, 
with  many  peculiar  combinations  and  mixtures  of  colors. 


FIG.  133. — JAPANESE  IRIS  (Iris  Eampheri}. 

It  succeeds  best  in  a  rather  moist,  rich  soil.  Many  other 
species  of  iris  are  very  beautiful  and  desirable,  among  the 
best  of  which  is  the 

GERMAN  IRIS  (Iris  Germanica). — The  foliage  of  this 
species  is  more  glaucous  than  that  of  the  Japanese,  and  the 
flowers  possess  many  shades  of  yellow  and  orange  in  addi- 
tion to  the  varying  colors  of  the  latter,  though  the  colors 
are  not  so  brilliant  or  well  defined.  It  grows  upon  lighc 
soil  quite  as  readily  as  upon  a  heavy  one. 

ORIENTAL  POPPY  (Papava  orientalis),  Fig.  134. — The 
flowers  of  this  species  are  of  the  most  brilliant  scarlet  color, 


234  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

marked  with  an  almost  black  centre.  It  is  perfectly  hardy, 
and  all  the  care  required  to  grow  it  successfully  after  plant- 
ing is  to  apply  a  dressing  of  fine  compost  on  the  bed  in  the 


FIG.  134. — OKIEJSTAL  POPPY  (Pupava  orieutalis). 

fall  and  keep  the  grass  and  weeds  from  choking  out  the 
plants  daring  the  summer. 

HARDY  FEVERFEW  (Pyrethrum  roseum  and  cinerari- 
folium). — Many  beautiful  double-flowering  varieties  of  the 
above  species  have  been  introduced  and  are  so  easily  grown 
and  beautiful  both  in  foliage  and  flower  that  they  should 
be  more  generally  planted.  The  blossoms  of  these  species 
are  used  for  the  manufacture  of  the  powder  known  under 
the  names  of  Persian,  Dalmatian,  and  Buhack  insect- 
powder. 

BLOODROOT  (Sanguinaria  Canadensis). — A  very  com- 
mon and  most  beautiful  native  plant,  producing  its  pure 
white  flowers  very  early  in  the  spring.  It  grows  best  in 
moist,  shaded  places  among  rocks  and  underbrush,  and  is 
easily  transplanted  from  its  wild  state  to  the  garden.  The 
very  early  blossoms  are  followed  by  broad,  lobed  glaucous 
leaves  that  retain  their  beauty  for  a  considerable  part  of 
the  summer. 


HARDY  HERBACEOUS  PLANTS,  ETC.  235 

WAKE-ROBIN  (Trillium  erectum,  erythrocarpum,  and 
grandiflorum). — All  very  pretty  early-blooming  species, 
requiring  moist,  shaded  locations  to  give  the  best  results, 
and  are  easily  transplanted  from  the  woods  to  the  garden. 

PANSY  ( Viola  tricolor),  Fig.  135.  —  When  properly 
grown  no  early -blooming  flower  gives  more  satisfaction.— 
So  much  show  outside  and  so  many  flowers  for  indoor 
decoration. — To  obtain  the  best  results  the  seed  should  be 
sown  in  August  in  a  cool,  airy  place,  and  when  three  or 


FIG.  135.— PANSY  (Viola  tricolor}. 

four  of  the  middle  leaves  have  formed  be  transplanted  to 
a  bed  where  they  may  be  protected  for  a  time  from  very 
severe  freezing  until  they  have  reached  a  size  to  show  some 
flower-buds.  They  then  should  be  exposed  to  the  weather 
to  harden  them  off  and  be  protected  from  severe  freezing 
during  the  winter  by  a  covering  of  pine  boughs  and  a  few 
leaves.  Too  deep  covering  will  destroy  the  plants  by  pro- 
ducing fermentation.  In  the  spring  the  covering  should 
be  removed  as  soon  as  severe  freezing  is  over,  in  this  section 
about  April  1st,  fine  rich  manure  be  worked  in  about  the 
plants,  and  the  soil  settled  by  a  heavy  watering.  All  of 
the  very  early  buds  should  be  removed  as  soon  as  open 


236 

until  the  plants  have  gained  good  size  and  are  vigorous, 
when  the  blossoms  may  be  allowed  to  mature  and  they  will 
then  be  of  large  size.  These  plants  may  be  transplanted  to 
beds  on  the  lawn  or  in  the  garden  and  produce  large  quan- 
tities of  blossoms  for  two  months,  i.e.,  April  to  June.  All 
faded  flowers  should  be  removed  and  none  of  the  seed-pods 
be  allowed  to  mature  if  the  largest  flowers  are  desired,  as 
the  development  of  a  single  seed-vessel  will  exhaust  the 
plants  more  than  the  production  of  a  dozen  flowers. 

ENGLISH  VIOLET  (F.   odorata),  Fig.  136. — This  little 
plant  can  also  be  successfully  grown  in  the  garden  or  lawn 


FIG.  136. —ENGLISH  VIOLET  (V.  odorata). 

with  a  little  care.  The  best  method  for  the  amateur  with 
no  greenhouse  facilities  is  to  divide  the  old  crowns  after  they 
have  bloomed  in  the  spring  and  plant  in  a  moist,  slightly 
shaded  place,  keeping  the  ground  well  cultivated,  and 
during  the  summer  pick  off  all  runners,  thus  forcing  the 
plants  to  make  a  large  number  of  crowns  and  many  flower- 
buds.  If  the  plants  are  not  where  they  can  be  protected 
during  the  winter,  they  may  be  transplanted  in  October  to 
a  more  sheltered  place  and  be  given  a  little  shelter  with 
coarse  manure,  leaves,  or  pine  boughs  when  severe  freezing 


HARDY    HERBACEOUS    PLANTS,    ETC.  237 

weather  sets  in  the  last  of  November  or  early  December.  In 
the  spring  they  should  be  uncovered  as  soon  as  the  snow 
disappears  and  some  fine,  well-rotted  manure  be  worked  in 
about  them,  when,  with  an  abundance  of  rain  tc  settle  the 
soil  about  the  roots,  the  flowers  will  grow  rapidly  and  be  of 
large  size. 

YUCCA  OR  ADAM'S  NEEDLE- AND-THREAD  PLANT  (Yuccci 
filamentosa))  Fig.  137. — A  very  beautiful  and  hardy  plant, 
producing  striking  effects  on  the  lawn,  with  its  long 
upright  narrow  leaves  and  large  panicle  of  creamy- white 


FIG.  137. — YUCCA  (Yucca filamentosd). 

flowers  rising' 4  or  5  feet  high.  It  is  especially  appropriate 
with  evergreens  in  the  background  and  among  rocks.  It 
is  easily  propagated  by  division  or  from  seed,  and  grows 
many  years  without  renewal. 

LILIES. — No  place  is  complete  without  some  of  the 
species  of  this  queen  of  flowers.  Some  of  them  are  very 
easily  grown  and  give  great  satisfaction.  For  the  best 
results  they  should  be  planted  in  a  deep,  mellow  soil,  one 
not  affected  by  drouth  and  yet  not  wet.  The  bulbs  should 
be  planted  from  4  to  6  inches  deep  as  early  in  the  fall  as 


238 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 


they  can  be  procured,  which  is  often  not  until  October, 
most  of  the  bulbs  being  imported.  Bulbs  already  in  the 
garden  should  be  transplanted  in  August  or  as  soon  as  the 
flower-stalks  die  down.  It  will  be  found  a  great  advantage 
to  take  up  and  separate  the  bulbs  of  the  lily-bed,  renew  the 


FIG.  138. — GOLDEN-BANDED  LILY  (Lilium  auratum). 

soil,  and  replant  once  in  three  or  four  years.     Among  the 
best  varieties  are : 

GOLDEN-BANDED  LILY  (Lilium  auratum).  Fig.  138. — 
This  is  the  finest  of  all  the  Japan  lilies.  The  flowers  are 
large,  white,  spotted  with  dark  crimson,  and  with  a  golden 
line  or  band  along  the  centre  of  each  petal.  The  flowers 
often  grow  in  large  clusters,  as  many  as  forty  sometimes 


HARDY    HERBACEOUS    PLANTS,   ETC.  239 

appear  on  a  single  stalk,  but  the  ordinary  number  is  about 
six  to  ten.  There  are  several  varietal  forms  of  this  superb 
lily. 

LANCE-LEAVED  LILY  (L.  lancifolium  or  speciosum). — 
Rather  more  hardy  and  easily  grown  than  the  last,  and 
producing  beautiful  flowers  of  somewhat  the  same  character 
and  markings,  but  without  the  golden  band.  The  two 
varieties  album  and  rulrum,  white  and  pink,  are  distinct 
and  desirable. 

GARDEN  EASTER  LILY  (L.  candidum). — This  pure  white 
lily  has  long  been  in  cultivation,  and  when  not  attacked  by 
the  "  lily-blight,"  a  disease  peculiar  to  this  species,  is  per- 
haps the  best  white  lily  for  garden  cultivation. 

LONG-FLOWERED  JAPAN  LILY  (L.  longiflorum). — A 
vigorous  and  hardy  species  producing  very  large  tubular 
white  flowers.  The  variety  known  as  the  Bermuda  Easter 
lily  (L.  Harrisii)  is  largely  used  for  forcing  for  Easter 
decorations. 

TURK'S-CAP  LILY  (L.  superb-inn). — One  of  the  finest  of 
all  the  lilies  in  size  and  vigor  of  growth  of  plant,  often 
reaching  6  feet  in  height.  It  succeeds  best  in  rather  moist 
soil,  and  the  flowers  vary  from  orange  to  red,  spotted,  with 
recurved  petals  and  producing  a  large  number  on  a  stalk. 

BATEMAN'S  LILY  (L.  Batemanii). — Plants  of  medium 
growth  with  "erect  orange  or  apricot-colored  flowers. 
Thrives  well  in  a  variety  of  soils,  but  succeeds  best  in  one 
of  a  rather  light,  deep  nature. 

DUTCH  BULBS. — Varieties  of  hyacinths  (Hy acini-hits 
orientalis),  tulips  (Tulipa  Gesneriana),  crocus  (Crocus  sp.), 
narcissus,  daffodils,  and  jonquils  (Narcissus  sp.),  Fig.  139. 
Few  plants  give  more  beauty  for  the  labor  and  expense  in- 
volved than  beds  of  these  early-blooming  plants.  Most  of 


240  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

these  bulbs  are  grown  iti  Holland,  whence  the  name.  They 
are  especially  desirable  on  the  lawn  or  in  borders  along  the 
walks  and  near  the  house.  For  the  best  success  the  bed 
should  be  made  deep  and  rich  in  August  or  September,  and 
the  bulbs  be  planted  from  4  to  G  inches  deep  as  soon  as  they 
c:in  be  obtained  in  the  fall.  A  heavy  covering  of  coarse 
manure  on  the  bed  just  before  the  ground  freezes  will  keep 
out  the  frost  and  hasten  the  time  of  blooming  in  the  spring. 
This  covering  should  be  removed  as  soon  as  the  snow  dis- 


FIG.  139.— DUTCH  BULBS. 

appears  in  the  spring,  otherwise  the  tops  may  start  so  as  to 
be  much  injured  when  uncovered. 

Beds  of  hyacinths,  tulips,  or  crocus  .planted  by  themselves 
are  often  more  satisfactory  than  in  mixed  beds,  unless  the 
quantity  of  each  is  small,  when  the  mixed  bed  may  be 
better. 

GLADIOLUS  are  tender  bulbs,  used  for  summer  decora- 
tion, aud  require  but  little  care  and  give  a  large  amount  of 
showy  blossoms. 


HARDY    HERBACEOUS    PLANTS,    ETC. 


241 


Tender  Bedding-plants. 

The  number  of  tender  bedding-plants  that  may  be  used 
for  the  decoration  of  home  grounds  is  very  great,  but  the 
limits  of  this  work  will  allow  of  the  description  of  only  a, 
few  of  the  most  important.  Some  of  them  are  obtained 
by  starting  from  seed,  some  by  division  of  root,  and  many 


FIG.  140. — SWEET  PEA  (Lathy rut  odoratus). 

of  them  by  cuttings  rooted  under  glass.     Among  those 
started  from  seeds  are : 

SWEET  PEA  (Lathyrus  odoratus),  Fig.  140. — This  plant 
is  becoming  so  popular,  and  deservedly  so,  that  special 
directions  for  its  growth  are  given.  It  is  easily  grown  and 
the  seed  is  so  cheap  that  there  is  no  excuse  for  any  one 
being  without  this  delightful  flower.  For  the  best  results 


242  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

a  rich,  cool  soil  is  required  and  the  seed  should  be  planted 
as  early  in  the  spring  as  the  ground  will  work  up  fine  and 
mellow.  Sow  the  seed  3  to  4  inches  deep,  or  perhaps 
better  plant  them  in  a  trench  4  inches  deep,  but  covering 
only  2  inches  deep  at  planting,  and  fill  up  to  the  level  in 
the  process  of  cultivating.  Various  kinds  of  supports  are 
used,  but  the  neatest  and  the  cheapest  support  in  the  end 
is  common  poultry-netting  3  feet  wide  stretched  firmly  on 
strong  posts.  Constant  picking  of  the  flowers  will  tend 
to  increase  the  time  of  blooming,  for  if  no  seed  is  matured 
the  strength  of  the  plants  will  go  to  the  production  of 
flowers.  Nothing  exhausts  the  vitality  of  plants  so  much 
as  the  production  of  seed. 

Of  the  many  other  varieties  of  plants  that  are  grown  from 
seed  space  will  not  permit  of  description;  but  we  give  a 
list  of  some  of  the  best: 

Alyssum,  Amaranthus  tricolor.,  Snapdragon.,  Asters, 
Balsams,  Calendula,  Calliopsis,  Candytuft,  Centaurea 
(Dusty -miller),  Coxcomb,  Cosmos,  Dahlia,  Datura,  Escliolt- 
zia,  Golden  Feverfew,  Marigold,  Mignonette,  Petunias, 
Poppies,  Portulacca,  Nasturtium,  Verbena,  etc. 

Some  of  the  best  of  the  bedding  plants  that  are  grown 
from  cuttings  are: 

Alternantliera,  Alyssum,  Coleus,  Geraniums,  Heliotrope, 
Salvias,  etc. 

Tender  Climbing  Plants. 

Some  of  the  best  tender  climbers  are: 

Canary-bird  Flower,  Cobea,  Cypress-vine,  German  Ivy, 
English  Ivy,  Morning-glory,  Star-cucumber,  Nasturtium, 
etc. 


HARDY    HERBACEOUS    PLANTS,    ETC.  243 

Subtropical  Plants. 

Canna.  Banana,  Abyssinian. 

Castor-bean.  Blue-gum  Tree. 

Caladium.  Cacti. 

Papyrus,  Egyptian.  Hydrangia  (tender). 

Strongly  marked  features  in  lawn  or  in  garden  may  be 
produced  by  the  use  of  subtropical  plants,  i.e.,  those  with 
large  leaves  or  large  growth  of  stem  and  flowers.  They 
may  be  so  grouped  together  as  to  render  otherwise  tame 
landscape  views  attractive.  Most  of  these  plants  being 


FIG.   141. — CAXNA  (Ca/tna  Indica). 

tender  and  requiring  a  rich  and  moist,  warm  soil,  cannot 
be  put  out  until  the  ground  has  become  well  warmed  and 
are  better  to  be  started  under  glass  and  grown  to  con- 
siderable size  if  immediate  effect  is  desired.  Among  those 
that  can  be  most  easily  grown  and  give  the  best  results 
are  the  following: 

CANNAS  (Canna  Indica),  Fig.  141. — These  rapid-grow- 
ing plants  vary  from  1  to  6  feet  in  height,  and  in  foliage 
from  the  brightest  green  to  a  very  dark  purple,  and  with  a 


244  LANDSCAPE    GAKDENING. 

great  variety  of  blossoms,  especially  the  new  strains  of  the 
French  and  hybrid  cannas,  which  are  exceedingly  showy  and 
beautiful.  The  tubers  are  easily  preserved  in  any  warm, 
dry  cellar,  and  are  rapidly  propagated  by  division  in  March 
or  April.  For  those  who  have  no  greenhouses  the  window- 
box  or  a  shallow  box  of  soil  placed  behind  the  kitchen 
stove  or  in  a  light,  warm  cellar  will  serve  a  very  good  place 
in  which  to  propagate  them.  The  tubers  should  be  cut 


FIG.  142. — CASTOR-BEAN  (Ricinus  communis). 

into  single  eyes  or  buds,  covered  with  2  or  3  inches  of  rich, 
sandy  soil,  and  the  temperature  kept  at  about  65°,  when 
they  will  quickly  start  into  growth  and  be  ready  for  trans- 
planting to  the  open  ground  about  June  1st.  In  grouping 
cannas  the  best  results  are  obtained  by  placing  varieties 
side  by  side,  with  as  great  a  contrast  of  foliage  or  color  of 
flowers  as  possible;  the  larger  ones  in  the  centre  of  the  bed 


HARDY    HERBACEOUS   PLANTS,   ETC.  2-45 

or  group  and  the  smaller  ones  on  the  outside.  Most  of  the 
leading  florists  and  seed-  and  plant-dealers  now  offer  an 
abundance  of  beautiful  varieties  at  low  prices,  and  when  a 
small  stock  is  once  obtained  by  a  little  skill  in  keeping 
them  through  the  winter  it  may  be  increased  very  rapidly. 
CASTOR-BEAN  (Picinus  communis),  Fig.  142. — This 
plant  is  especially  ornamental  on  account  of  its  broad  lobed 
leaves,  large  showy  panicle  of  flowers,  and  fruit-pods.  The 
seed  should  be  started  under  glass  in  April,  and  be  grown 
to  a  foot  or  more  in  height  before  planting  out  to  obtain 


FIG.  143.— CALADIUM  (Caladium  esculentuiri). 

results  early  in  the  season.  They  should  not  be  put  out 
into  the  open  ground,  however,  until  about  June  1st.  As 
a  single  specimen  in  the  centre  of  a  large  bed  or  as  the 
background  for  other  small  foliage-plants  they  are  very 
effective. 

CALADIUMS  (Caladium  esculentum],  Fig.  143. — The 
leaves  of  this  plant  are  broad  and  heart-shaped,  often  2  feet 
across,  and  hanging  obliquely  on  the  leaf-stalk  make  very 
beautiful  borders  for  beds  of  cannas  or  castor-bean  plants, 


LAKDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

or  they  make  pleasing  single  specimens  on  the  lawn.  It  is 
also  especially  useful  among  rockwork  and  on  the  border  of 
water.  It  requires  the  same  treatment  as  the  canna,  though 
perhaps  more  heat  in  starting  them  into  growth  than  the 
latter. 

EGYPTIAN  PAPER-REED  OR  PAPYRUS  (Papyrus  anti- 
quorinn).  Fig.  144. — This  beautiful  plant  is  being  much 
less  used  than  it  should  be.  It  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
and  easily  grown  plants,  either  on  the  lawn,  in  ordinary 


FIG.  144. — EGYPTIAN  PAPYKUS  (Papyrus  antiquorum). 
garden  soil,  or  on  the  borders  of  ponds  or  basins  of  foun- 
tains. Plants  in  6-  or  8-inch  pots  planted  in  early  June 
will  make  clumps  that  would  fill  a  15-inch  pot  and  be  8  feet 
high  by  September.  It  is  best  wintered  over  in  a  warm 
greenhouse  and  should  have  an  abundance  of  water. 
Probably  it  could  be  carried  over  in  a  warm  cellar,  but  I 
know  of  no  instance  of  its  having  been  done. 

ABYSSINIAN  BANANA  (Musa  ensete),  Fig.  145. — In  a 
warm,  sheltered  location,  where  the  wind  will  not  whip  and 
lash  the  leaves,  this  is  one  of  the  grandest  of  the  subtropical 


HARDY  HERBACEOUS  PLANTS,  ETC.  24? 

plants.  For  the  best  results  the  seed  should  be  started 
under  glass  at  least  one  year  before  they  are  wanted  for 
outdoor  work,  at  which  time  they  should  be  4  feet  high 
and  in  10-inch  pots.  In  a  warm,  rich  soil  such  plants  will 
grow  to  10  feet  in  height  in  a  single  season  and  nothing 
gives  a  more  tropical  effect  on  the  lawn  or  in  the  garden. 
Plants  may  be  wintered  over  in  a  warm,  dry  cellar  or  in  a 


FIG.  145. — ABYSSINIAN  BANANA  (Musa  ensete). 

cool   greenhouse   and    be    made   to    serve   two    or   three 
summers'  decoration. 

THE  BLUE-GUM  TREE  (Eucalyptus  globulus).  —  The 
beautiful  blue  or  glaucous  color  of  the  foliage  of  this  tree 
together  with  its  rapid  growth  makes  it  very  useful  upon 
the  lawn.  It  is  even  more  glaucous  than  the  best  of  the 
Colorado  blue  spruces,  and  in  contrast  with  the  dark  foliage 
of  evergreens,  purple  beeches,  plums,  etc.,  the  effect  is  very 
beautiful.  The  plants  must  be  started  about  a  year  before 


248  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

wanted  and  be  kept  growing,  when  they  will  reach  from  4 
to  6  feet  in  height.  Such  plants  out  of  doors  and  in  rich 
soil  will  grow  to  10  or  12  feet  in  one  season.  They  can  be 
carried  over  for  a  second  year's  decoration  by  moving  to  a 
cool  greenhouse  before  severe  frosts. 

CACTI. — Many  species  of  these  unique  and  picturesque 
plants  may  be  used  for  outdoor  decoration  during  the 
summer,  and  especially  in  connection  with  ledges  and  rock- 
work,  where  they  are  very  appropriate.  None  of  the  large 
species  are  hardy  and  must  be  wintered  in  a  cool  greenhouse 
or  very  dry  cellar.  The  plants  when  thus  set  out  make  a 
clean,  healthy  growth  during  the  summer,  and  need  to  be 
kept  very  dry  during  the  winter.  It  is  generally  better  to 
plunge  the  pots  rather  deep  in  the  ground  than  to  turn 
them  out,  especially  if  the  soil  is  inclined  to  be  dry. 

TENDER  HYDRANGEAS  (Hydrangea  hortensis). — This 
species  is  largely  used  for  veranda  and  lawn  decoration. 
Its  immense,  rounded  panicles  of  flowers,  white  when  they 
first  open,  change  to  shades  of  pink  and  violet-purple  under 
varying  conditions  of  soil  and  exposure.  They  may  be 
kept  over  winter  in  a  warm,  dry  cellar,  giving  them  just 
water  enough  to  keep  the  branches  from  becoming  wilted. 
The  time  for  bringing  them  from  the  cellar  and  starting 
into  growth  may  vary  according  to  the  time  they  are  desired 
in  bloom.  For  early  blooming  the  last  of  March,  and  for 
July  and  August  blooming  they  need  not  be  started  into 
growth  until  May. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

AQUATIC  PLANTS,  HARDY  FERNS,  AND  ORNAMENTAL 
GRASSES. 

Aquatic  Plants. 

WHEREVER  bodies  of  water  occur,  whether  large  or  small, 
natural  lakes,  streams,  artificial  ponds,  or  fountain-basins, 
their  decoration  with  more  or  less  of  the  water-loving  plants 
—aquatics — can  be  made  to  greatly  increase  the  naturally 
beautiful  effects  of  such  features  of  landscape,  Fig.  146. 
Much  interest  has  been  awakened  in  the  past  few  years  in 
these  plants,  and  many  growers  of,  and  dealers  in,  aquatic 
plants  are  found  in  different  sections  of  the  country. 
There  has  been  a  great  increase  in  the  growth  of  these 
plants  for  ornamentation,  especially  in  parks  and  public 
grounds  as  well  as  on  many  private  places.  Many  of  the 
"  aquatics  "  are  easily  grown  in  any  shallow  body  of  water 
that  is  not  fed  by  cold  springs  or  mountain  streams,  but 
some  of  them,  like  the  Victoria  regia,  require  more  or  less 
artificial  heat,  that  may  be  carried  to  the  water  by  steam  or 
hot-water  pipes  from  some  greenhouse  or  other  heating- 
plant.  Many  of  them  are  started  from  seed,  while  some  of 
them  are  propagated  by  division  of  the  roots.  Full  direc- 
tion for  germinating  the  seed  and  growing  the  plants  may 
be  obtained  from  the  catalogues  of  dealers  in  this  class  of 

plants. 

249 


250  LANDSCAPE  GARDENING. 

SOIL. — The  soil  best  suited  to  the  growth  of  most  of  the 
aquatics,  especially  the  water-lilies,  is  one  made  of  equal 
parts  of  good  garden  soil  and  well-decomposed  stable 
manure.  If  the  plants  are  grown  from  seed,  they  need  to 
be  transplanted  two  or  three  times  until  large  enough  to 
put  into  the  open  air,  when  they  should  be  planted  in  a 
box  or  tub  or  be  sunken  in  the  mud,  pressing  the  soil  firmly 
about  the  roots,  and  then  covering  the  surface  of  the  soil 
with  coarse  sand  or  gravel.  It  matters  little  what  the 
depth  of  water  over  the  plants  is  after  well  established;  it 
may  be  3  inches  or  3  or  more  feet;  but  for  the  water-lilies, 
it  should  never  get  so  low  as  to  have  the  leaves  rest  on  the 
soil  for  any  considerable  length  of  time.  After  good 
growth  lias  begun,  if  the  soil  is  in  the  proper  condition, 
but  little  care  need  be  given  except  to  see  that  the  water 
does  not  all  evaporate,  or  that  muskrats  do  not  get  at  and 
destroy  the  roots,  of  which  they  are  very  fond.  Every 
means  possible,  by  poisoning,  trapping,  shooting,  etc., 
should  be  taken  to  get  rid  of  the  above  pests,  as  a  single 
pair  of  these  animals  will  destroy  a  large  number  of 
plants  in  a  short  time.  Among  the  plants  that  grow 
directly  in  the  water  are  the  following: 

Lotus,  Egyptian.  Water-lilies,  Royal  Purple. 

"       White  Japanese.  "          "      Superb. 

"       Striped  Japanese.  "          "      Devonian. 

Native.  "          "      East  Indian. 

Water-lilies,  Hardy.  "          "      White  African. 

"          "      Rose-flowered.  "          "      Royal  or  Victoria. 

"          "      Large-flowered.  Water-hyacinth. 

"          "      Yellow-flowered.  Water-poppy. 

"          "      European.  Salvinia. 

"          "      Day-blooming.  Papyrus,  Egyptian. 

"          "      Purple  African.  I  lag,  Variegated. 


AQUATIC    PLANTS,   HAEDY    FERtfS,   ETC.  251 

Porcupine-plant.  Arrowhead. 

Parrot's-feather.  Scouring-rush. 

Wild  Rice.  Pickerel -weed. 

Cat-o' -nine-tail.  Bulrush. 

rBurweed.  Bur-marigold. 
Water-plantain. 

EAST  IXDIAX  LOTUS  (Nelumbium  roseum),  Fig.  147. — 
A  most  beautiful  plant,  with  large  peltate  or  round-shield  - 


FIG.  147.— EAST  INDIA  LOTUS  (Nelumbium  roseum). 

shaped  leaves  and  large  pink  or  rose-colored  flowers.  It  is 
easily  grown  in  shallow,  warm-water  ponds,  or  in  tubs, 
where  it  blooms  freely.  Use  a  rich,  heavy,  but  not  clayey 
loam. 


253  LANDSCAPE  GARDENING. 

The  other  species  of  nelumbiums  that  succeed  almost 
equally  well  \vitli  the  above  and  require  the  same  treatment 
are  the  WHITE  JAPANESE  (N.  album  grandiflorum), 
STRIPED  JAPANESE  (N.  album  striatum),  and  the  EGYP- 
TIAN LOTUS  (JV.  speciosum).  The  latter  resembles  the 
first  species,  but  the  flowers  are  paler  in  color  and  not  so 
Jarge  and  full.  The  native  YELLOW  LOTUS  (N.  luteum) 
is  found  growing  in  the  ponds  and  streams  of  the  South  and 
Southwest,  and  succeeds  in  warm,  sheltered  places  much 
further  north.  All  of  the  above  species  are  claimed  to  be 
perfectly  hardy  in  the  Northern  and  Western  States  if 
covered  with  water  deep  enough  so  that  the  ground  around 
their  roots  will  not  freeze,  i.e.,  2  to  3  feet  deep,  according 
to  latitude. 

HARDY  WATER-LILIES. — Our  native  water-lilies,  found 
in  many  sections  of  the  country,  are  very  beautiful  and 
easily  grown,  the  principal  requirements  being  a  deep, 
muddy  soil.  Only  water  enough  to  cover  the  roots  is  all 
that  is  absolutely  necessary,  but  the}''  generally  grow  to 
greater  perfection  in  2  or  3  feet  of  water.  In  deep  water 
they  are  easily  planted  by  tying  the  roots  to  stones  and 
dropping  them  in  where  wanted. 

Many  beautiful  varieties  are  now  propagated  and  offered 
for  sale,  among  the  best  of  which  are  the  ROSE-FLOWERED 
WATER-LILY  (Nymphcea  odorata,  var.  rosca).  Fig.  148, 
LARGE-FLOWERED  WATER-LILY  (JV.  o.,  var.  superba), 
YELLOW  WATER-LILY  (N.  o.  sulphured). 

The  EUROPEAN  WHITE  WATER-LILY  (N.  alba  candidis- 
sima)  produces  rather  larger  flowers  than  our  native  species, 
is  equally  hardy,  and  a  more  abundant  bloomer. 

TENDER  WATER-LILIES. — The  flowers  of  this  group  of 
water-lilies  give  a  greater  variety  of  forms  and  colors  than 


AQUATIC    PLANTS,   HARDY    FERNS,    ETC. 


those  last   described.     They  bloom   more  freely,  showing 
flowers   from   July   to  September,  if   planted   in  shallow 
warm-water  ponds  or  basins.     They  can  also  be  grown  ii 
tubs  with*  good  success,  but  the  root?    must 


the 


odomia  rojea). 

at  the  beginning 
is  exercised  by  0over- 
with  Jeaves  and  straw, 
the  Link  or  pond. 
two  groups:  i.e.,  first,  those 
opening  in  the   morning  and 
those  opening  in  the  evening, 
night  and  until  toward  noon 


FIG.  148.—  it 

in  a  greenhouse-tank  or  be  p 
of  every  season.    If  cousi^era 
ing  the  plants  with  baiftels 
they  may  be  carried  over  win 

They  may  be  divicred 
blooming  during  the 
closing  at  night;  and 
remaining  open  du 
the  following 

The  best  of  fne/DAY-BLOOMiNG  varieties  are:  PURPLE 
ZANZIBAR  OR  AKUCAX  LILY  (Xymphaa  Zanzibarensis), 
Fig.  149,  ROYAL  PURPLE  AFRICAN  LILY  (3".  Z.  aznrea), 
SUPERB  AFRICAN  LILY  (JY.  Z.  superba).  These  species 
may  be  had  in  bloom  constantly  from  July  to  September, 
if  planted  in  rich  soil  in  shallow,  warm  water  in  ponds, 
basins,  or  tubs.  For  the  best  results  in  tubs  they  should 


254 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


be  placed  on  the  south,  southeast,  or  southwest  shelter  of 
buildings  or  shrubbery,  where  the  sun  will  strike  them  for 
6  to  8  hours  per  day.  A  bright,  sunny  exposure  is  also 


NYMPH/EA 

ZANZIBARENS 


FIG.  149. — PURPLE  AFRICAN  WATER-LILY  (Nymphcea  Zanzibarensis). 

desirable  for  the  location  of  the  pond  or  tank,  that  the 
water  may  be  kept  as  warm  as  possible. 

The  best  varieties  of  the  NIGHT-BLOOMERS  are:  The 
DEVONIAN  WATER-LILY  (Nymphma  Devoniensis),  one  of 
the  choicest  and  most  beautiful,  with  bright  rose-colored 
flowers  and  scarlet  stamens.  EAST  INDIAN  WATER-LILY 
(N.  rnbra).  WHITE  AFRICAN  WATER-LILY  (N.  dentata), 
one  of  the  most  free  bloomers,  with  flowers  of  large  size  and 
very  easily  grown.  ROYAL  WATER-LILY  (  Victoria  regia), 
the  largest  of  all  the  water-lilies,  its  leaves  often  measuring 


AQUATIC    PLANTS,    HARDY   FERNS,    ETC.  255 

4  to  6  feet  across  and  the  flowers  a  foot  in  diameter.  Very 
few  persons  succeed  in  blooming  this  royal  flower,  and  then 
it  is  done  only  where  artificial  heat  is  introduced  from  some 
greenhouse  or  other  steam  or  hot-water  plant  near  by.  But 
where  such  facilities  are  available  the  results  generally  well 
repay  the  effort,  for  nothing  of  an  aquatic  growth  can 
exceed  the  grandeur  of  the  immense  floating  leaves  and 
large  gorgeously  colored  flowers  of  this  plant. 

Many  other  water-loving  plants  besides  the  water-lilies 
may  be  used  with  good  effect  in  aquatic  gardens.  These 
may  be  divided  into  those  growing  directly  in  deep  water 
and  those  growing  in  the  moist  soil  on  its  borders.  Of  the 
first  are  the 

WATER-HYACINTH  (Eichhornia  crassipes). — The  flowers 
of  this  plant  resemble  those  of  the  common  light  blue 


FIG.  150. — WATER-POPPY  (Lymnocharis  Humboldtii) 

hyacinth,  and  by  some  it  is  likened  to  a  species  of  orchid- 
blossoms.  It  grows  freely  in  shallow  warm  water,  each 
plant,  after  separating  from  its  parent,  floating,  driven  about 


256  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

by  the  winds  or  currents  from  one  side  of  the  pond  or  basin 
to  the  other.  It  blooms  freely  and  the  very  abundant 
floating  roots  and  inflated  petioles  or  leaf-stalks  are  very  in- 
teresting. 

WATER-POPPY  (Limnocharis  Humboldtii),  Fig.  150. — 
The  bright  lemon-colored  flowers  of  this  little  plant  add 
very  greatly  to  the  beauty  of  any  collection  of  aquatics. 
Plants  set  out  in  June  grow  rapidly  and  bloom  freely. 

SALYINIA  (S.  Braziliensis). — A  very  pretty  little  float- 
ing plant  with  light  green  almost  heart-shaped  leaves 
covered  with  many  soft  hairs.  It  grows  freely,  and  floating 
about  among  the  larger  plants  has  a  very  pleasing  effect. 


AQUATIC    BORDER-PLANTS. 

PAPYRUS  OR  REED  PAPER-PLANTS  (Papyrus  anti- 
quorum),  Fig.  144,  page  246. — This  plant  has  already  been 
described  under  "  Subtropical  Plants,"  but  is  equally 
useful  and  beautiful  for  the  borders  of  ponds  and  fountain- 
basins.  It  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  plants,  wherever 
grown,  its  graceful  umbrella-like  clusters  of  leaves  being 
entirely  unlike  any  foliage  of  the  temperate  zone.  It  grows 
equally  well  on  the  banks  or  in  the  water  at  the  border, 
and  makes  a  beautiful  centre  plant  for  a  group  of  other 
upland  aquatics  or  in  large  clusters  by  itself. 

VARIEGATED  FLAG  (Acorus  Japonicus  variegatus). — Our 
native  "sweet  flag"  is  familiar  to  most  persons,  and  this 
plant  is  very  much  like  it  except  that  it  has  most  beauti- 
fully variegated  green  and  white  leaves.  It  is  perfectly 
hardy  and  grows  freely. 

PORCUPINE-PLANT  (Scirpus  Taberncemontani  zebrina). 
' — A  beautiful  hardy  plant  with  round  leafless  stems,  beauti- 


AQUATIC    PLANTS,    HARDY    FERNS,    ETC. 


257 


fully  marked  in  sections  of  white  and  green,  giving  it 
something  of  the  appearance  of  the  quills  of  the  porcupine. 
This  plant  and  the  variegated  flag  can  be  so  grouped  with 
the  light  and  dark  green,  the  broad-  and  the  narrow-leaved, 
aquatics  as  to  produce  most  beautiful  effects. 

PARROT'S- FEATHER  (Myriophyllum  proserpinacoides), 
Fig.  151. — This  beautiful  plant  will  serve  soipany  pur- 
poses for  water  d%oration,  makes  so  rajjij^frowth,  and  is 


FIG.  151.— PARROT'S- FEAT  HKK   (.MyriopAyllum  proserpinacoides). 


so  easily  grown  that  it  should  be  much  more  cultivated  than 
it  now  is.  It  makes  a  most  beautiful  border-plant  for 
ponds  and  fountain-basins,  and  planted  in  the  pans  of  large 
fountains  its  drooping  growth  in  with  the  falling  water 
produces  most  charming  effects.  It  may  be  successfully 
grown  in  hanging  baskets  or  basins  and  over  the  stones  in 
aquaria.  It  is  so  easily  propagated  that  even  small  shoots, 
taken  off  and  placed  in  rather  warm  water,  root  in  a  very 
few  days. 

WILD  RICE  (Zizania  aquatica), — A  rapid-growing  grass 
of  large  size  and  graceful  form.     It  is  easily  grown,  in  fact 


258  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

in  some  places  it  spreads  so  rapidly  from  self-sown  seed  as 
to  become  a  nuisance  unless  heroically  weeded  out  in  the 
early  summer. 

Many  native  plants  are  useful  for  decorating  borders  of 
ponds  and  streams,  among  the  best  of  which  are  the  fol- 
lowing: CAT-O'-NINE-TAIL  (Typha  latifolid),  BURWEED 
(Sparganium  simplex),  WATER-PLANTAIN  (Alisma  plan- 
tago),  ARROWHEAD  (Sagittaria  var-iabilis),  SCOURING- 
RUSH  (Equisetums  sp.),  BULRUSH  (Scirpus  sp.),  PICKEREL- 
WEED  (Pontederia  cordata),  BUR-MARIGOLD  (Bidens  sp.)9 
and  many  species  of  sedges  (Car ex),  all  of  which  are  found 
in  or  about  our  ponds  and  streams  and  may  be  easily  trans- 
planted to  more  cultivated  locations.  Some  of  them,  like 
the  Bidens  and  Typha,  etc.,  seed  very  freely,  and  a  little 
heroic  thinning  will  be  needed  to  prevent  them  from  over- 
running the  space  needed  for  more  desirable  plants. 

Hardy  Ferns. 

There  are  many  hardy  species  of  large-growing  ferns  that 
are  beautiful  and  easily  grown  and  especially  suited  for  the 
decoration  of  shaded  places.  They  thrive  best  in  a  rather 
moist  soil,  but  if  in  the  shade  many  of  them  will  grow 
luxuriantly  in  even  thin  soil.  They  are  easily  transplanted 
and  may  be  moved  from  the  woods  or  roadside  at  almost 
any  time  if  a  large  clump  of  roots  and  soil  is  taken  up,  but 
perhaps  the  best  time  is  when  they  are  beginning  to  grow 
in  the  spring  and  early  summer. 

Among  the  best  are:  MAIDENHAIR  FERN  (Adiantum 
pedatum),  CINNAMON  FERNS  (Osmunda  regalis,  cinna- 
monia,  and  Claytoniana),  CHRISTMAS  FERNS  (Aspidium 
marginale),  SWORD-FERN  (A.  acrostichoides),  OSTRICH 


AQUATIC    PLANTS,  HARDY   FERNS,  ETC. 


259 


FERN  (Onoclea  struthiopteris),  KATTLESNAKE  FERN  (Bo- 
trichium  Virginicuni),  BLADDER-FERN  (Cistopteris  bulbi- 
fera),  and  Polypodium  vulgar  e,  Woodsia  illvensis  and 
obtusa  are  especially  useful  for  rocks  and  dry  wooded 
places. 

Ornamental  Grasses. 

A  number  of  hardy  and  very  ornamental  grasses  may  play 
an  important  part  in  home  lawn  decorations,  either  in 
masses  by  themselves  or  planted  with  groups  of  other 
decorative  plants,  trees,  or  shrubs.  They  are  easily  grown 


FIG.  152.— PAMPAS-GRASS  (Gynerium  argentum). 

and  propagated  by  division  of  the  clump ;  one  clump  of  two 
or  three  years'  growth  may  often  be  divided  so  as  to  make 
a  score  or  more  plants.  The  great  advantage  of  these 


260  LANDSCAPE  GARDENING. 

grasses  is  that  they  are  perfectly  hr.rdy  and  require  so  little 
care.     Among  the  best  are  the  following: 

PAMPAS-GRASS  (Gynerium  argentum).  Fig.  152,  JAPAN 
PLUME-GRASSES  (Eulalia  Japonica,  E.  J.  zebrina  (Fig. 
153),  E.  J.  variegata,  E.  J.  gracill\md),  REED-GRASS 
(Arundo  tfonax),  both  plain  and  variegated,  etc.,  RIBBON- 
GRASS  (Phalaris  arundinacece) .  The  last  species  spreads 


FTG.  153. — JAPANESE  PLUME-GKASS  (Eulalia  zebrina). 

rapidly  and  should  be  kept  within  bounds  by  spading  up 
and  pulling  out  all  the  suckers  or  stolons  as  soon  as  they 
get  beyond  the  limits  of  the  bed  or  space  it  is  desired  that 
it  shall  occupy. 


CHAPTER   XT. 

INSECTS  AND  FUNGI   ATTACKING  ORNAMENTAL   TREES, 
SHRUBS,   ETC. 


of  the  greatest  difficulties  one  has  to  contend  with 
in  the  care  of  ornamental  trees,  shrubs,  etc.,  is  the  injury 
caused  by  insects  and  fungous  pests,  and  in  this  chapter  a 
brief  outline  of  the  most  destructive  pests  will  be  given, 
with  the  best  and  most  easily  applied  remedies. 

The  injury  done  to  ornamentals  by  the  above  pests  is  very 
great,  though  not  so  large  as  that  to  fruit  and  garden  crops. 
It  is  the  history  of  all  cultivated  plants  that  the  more 
largely  any  one  kind  is  grown  the  more  rapidly  will  its 
natural  enemies,  i.e.,  insects  and  parasitic  fungi,  increase, 
and  the  more  ornamental  homes  we  have  the  more  need 
there  will  be  to  resort  to  protective  or  remedial  measures  to 
secure  satisfactory  growth. 

No  attempt  will  be  made  at  a  strictly  technical  descrip- 
tion of  species,  but  the  author  will  endeavor  to  give  a  brief, 
plain  description  such  as  will  enable  the  practical  gardener 
or  home-owner  to  detect  the  pests  that  may  be  injuring  his 
pets  and  to  apply  remedies  that  shall  save  them  from 
destruction. 

In  making  up  this  list  the  author  is  indebted  to  the  many 
carefully  recorded  results  given  in  the  bulletins  of  the 

experiment-stations    published    by   several  States,    which 

261 


262  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

together  with  a  large  practical  experience  in  the  care  of 
nearly  all  species  and  varieties  of  ornamental  trees,  shrubs, 
etc.,  he  hopes  will  enable  him  to  present  the  latest  and  best 
methods  of  preventing  serious  loss  from  the  above  pests. 
The  reader  is  referred  to  the  popular  bulletins  published 
by  the  various  experiment-stations  often  giving  illus- 
trations of  destructive  insect  or  fungous  pests  with  full 
treatment  for  their  destruction.  If  one  finds  a  pest  at  work 
and  is  not  familiar  with  it,  specimens  should  be  sent  at  once 
to  the  entomologist  or  botanist  of  the  station  for  identifi- 
cation and  advice  as  to  remedies. 


Insecticides. 

(Insect-destroyers. ) 

Practically  there  are  but  very  few  of  the  common  insecti- 
cides needed  or  of  much  value  in  the  preservation  of  farm, 
garden,  or  ornamental  crops,  and  these  are  Paris  green, 
hellebore,  kerosene  emulsion, whale-oil  soap,  andpyrethrum- 
powder.  The  first  and  second  are  used  for  the  destruction 
of  chewing  insects  and  the  third  and  fourth  for  sucking 
insects. 

PARTS  GREEN. — This  is  a  chemical  combination  of 
arsenic  or  arsenious  acid  and  copper,  technically  called 
arsenite  of  copper,  which  is  used  largely  for  making  paint; 
the  arsenic  or  arsenions  acid  being  the  element  that  kills 
insect  life.  It  is  a  deadly  poison  and  should  be  used  with 
extreme  caution  and  never  be  applied  in  large  quantities  to 
crops  used  as  food  or  be  kept  in  such  places  as  to  be  accessi- 
ble to  irresponsible  persons  or  children. 

Pure  Paris  green  contains  but  a  small  percent  of  soluble 
arsenions  acid  and  can  be  used  upon  most  plants  without 


IKJtTRIOttS   INSECTS  AKD 

injury  in  sufficient  quantities  to  destroy  any  insects  that 
feed  by  biting  or  chewing  the  parts.  Samples  containing 
more  than  four  per  cent  of  soluble  arsenious  acid  should  be 
used  with  considerable  caution. 

DRY  PARIS  GREEX. — In  the  powdered  form  it  is  applied 
with  a  sieve,  a  fine  cloth  bag  on  a  pole  or  stick,  with  the 
common  sulphur  bellows  or  some  of  the  numerous  machines 
or  "  guns  "  that  will  distribute  it  upon  the  surface  of  the 
foliage  in  very  minute  quantities.  The  principal  difficulty, 
however,  found  in  applying  it  in  this  manner  is  in  dis- 
tributing it  in  sufficiently  minute  quantities  not  to  injure 
the  foliage  and  in  making  it  adhere  to  the  foliage.  To 
overcome  these  difficulties  it  is  extended  or  diluted  in 
some  way,  as  with  air-slaked  lime,  plaster,  cheap  flour, 
glucose,  etc.  The  best  results  are  obtained  by  making  the 
application  when  the  foliage  is  wet  with  rain  or  dew. 

PARIS  GREEX  AXD  PLASTER,  LIME,  OR  FLOUR. — In 
order  to  distribute  Paris  green  more  thoroughly  and 
economically  in  a  dry  form  it  is  often  mixed  at  the  rate 
of  1  Ib.  to  10  up  to  50  Ibs.  of  plaster  or  air-slaked  lime  or 
with  from  10  to  20  Ibs.  of  fine  dry  cheap  flour.  All  of 
these  substances  possess  some  merit,  but  the  two  first  are 
nearly  as  readily  washed  off  by  rains  as  the  Paris  green 
itself,  while  the  latter  when  once  moistened  foms  a  paste 
that  upon  drying  will  remain  on  the  foliage \tt  a  long  lime. 

PARIS  GREEX  ix  WATER. — ^>y  far  tbrbest  method  of 
applying  this  poison  is  mixed  witl^vater  and  applied 
with  a  nozzle  that  will  make  a  verv^ine  spray  or  mist.  In 
this  way  it  is  more  evenly  distributed  over  the  foliage  or 

other  parts,  adheres  be tj_i  i  nn<Jr  I is  used  in  the  water 

there  will  bajatrClTless  danger: from  injury  than  if  used  in 
the  dry  form. 


264  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

Paris  green  alone  can  be  safely  used  only  at  the  rate  of 
1  Ib.  to  250  or  300  gals,  of  water.  This,  however,  is  a  very 
small  quantity,  and  to  enable  more  Paris  green  to  be  used 
lime  is  added  to  neutralize  the  soluble  arsenious  acid.  Two 
Ibs.  of  lime  slaked  in  water  and  added  to  25  gals,  of  water 
will  enable  us  to  use  as  much  as  1  Ib.  of  Paris  green  to 
100  and  even  50  gals,  of  water  without  injury  to  the 
foliage.  When  the  Bordeaux  mixture  (see  "Fungicides") 
is  used,  the  lime  in  that  mixture  has  the  same  effect,  and 
1  Ib.  of  Paris  green  to  50  or  100  gallons  of  the  mixture  may 
be  used  without  injury  to  the  foliage  (except  upon  the 
peach  and  cherry  trees),  and  the  work  of  destroying  insects 
and  fungi  thus  reduced  one  half. 

HELLEBORE-POWDER. — This  is  a  fine  powder  made  from 
grinding  the  roots  of  Veratrum  album,  and  will  kill  most 
chewing  insects.  It,  however,  is  more  expensive  and  does 
not  adhere  so  well  to  the  foliage  as  Paris  green,  even  if 
used  in  lime  or  water.  It  will  not,  however,  injure  the 
foliage,  and  is  not  nearly  so  poisonous — not  dangerously  so 
unless  taken  into  the  lungs  or  stomach  in  large  quantities. 
It  is  best  used  in  water  or  while  the  foliage  is  wet  with  rain 
or  dew. 

KEROSENE  EMULSION. — Formula:  %  Ib.  common  bar 
soap,  2  gallons  water,  2  gallons  common  kerosene. 

Dissolve  the  soap  in  the  hot  water;  while  still  hot,  add 
the  kerosene  and  churn  back  and  forth  with  a  garden- 
pump  or  syringe  until  a  soft  soap  or  cream-like  substance 
is  formed.  When  cold,  dilute  with  water  to  make  from  10 
to  25  gals,  of  liquid.  This  is  used  for  the  destruction 
of  sucking  insects  like  aphides  (plant-lice),  scale  insects, 
etc. 

WHALE-OIL  SOAP  is  very  frequently  used  as  an  insecti- 


IN  junior  s  INSECTS  AND  FUNGI.  265 

cide  at  the  rate  of  from  1  Ib.  to  3  to  5  gals,  of  water,  ac- 
cording to  the  insect. 

PYRETHRUM  OR  PERSIAN  INSECT-POWDER. — This  sub- 
stance is  made  from  the  flowers  of  two  or  three  species  of 
pyrethrum  or  feverfew-plants,  the  flower-heads  of  which 
are  ground  to  a  fine  powder,  known  in  the  markets  as 
pyrethrum,  Dalmatian,  Persian,  or  Buhack  insect-powder. 
When  dusted  upon  some  kinds  of  insects  in  the  latter  part 
of  the  afternoon  or  evening,  it  will  paralyze  them  and  those 
remaining  under  its  influence  during  the  entire  night  are 
killed.  Many  of  these  insects  would  soon  recover  if  it  were 
applied  in  the  morning  or  middle  of  the  day.  Young 
insects  are  more  susceptible  to  its  effect  than  older  ones, 
but  as  most  of  the  aphides  and  other  sucking  insects  are 
short-lived,  several  applications  at  intervals  of  a  few  days 
or  a  week  will  destroy  most  of  them. 

Fungi  or  Fungous  Growths. 

The  use  of  fungicides  becomes  necessary  to  protect  many 
of  our  trees  and  shrubs  from  fungous  growths,  i.e.,  mil- 
dews, rusts,  blights,  etc.,  which  often  do  serious  injury, 
and  copper  in  one  form  or  another  is  the  substance  most 
commonly  used  to  destroy  these  pests.  When  once  a 
fungous  growth  has  become  established  in  the  tissues  of  a 
plant,  nothing  will  kill  or  dislodge  it  that  will  not  destroy 
the  host  plant,  but  the  ppores  or  seeds  of  the  fungus  may 
be  killed  or  be  prevented  from  germinating  by  a  very  small 
amount  of  copper  solution  coming  in  contact  with  them. 

To  prevent  the  growth,  therefore,  of  the  spores  of  rusts, 
smuts,  mildews,  etc.,  it  becomes  necessary  to  have  the 
copper  solution  on  the  parts  of  the  plants  likely  to  be 


266 

affected  whenever  the  spores  come  in  contact  with  the  plant 
under  conditions  of  liigli  temperature  and  moisture.  These 
spores  are  produced  in  immense  numbers,  an  illustration 
of  which  may  he  seen  in  mass  of  spores  forming  the  large 
fruit-hunches  of  the  "  corn-smut  "  or  the  dust  of  the  puff- 
ball,  the  hlack  substance  of  the  first  and  the  fine  gray 
powder  of  the  last  being  composed  of  myriads  of  spores  or 
seeds.  These  spores  are  very  small,  so  small  in  fact  that 
they  are  individually  scarcely  perceptible  to  ordinary  vision 
and  are  carried  about  by  the  slightest  breath  of  air. 

Much  may  be  done  to  prevent  the  growth  of  fungous 
pests  by  keeping  the  trees  or  plants  in  a  vigorous,  healthy 
growth.  This  may  be  done  by  good  cultivation  and  an 
abundance  of  plant-food,  under  which  condition  the  grow- 
ing spores  are  not  so  likely  to  gain  a  foothold  in  the  tissues 
of  the  host  plant;  but  even  with  the  most  vigorous  growth 
we  sometimes  find  that  if  the  weather  is  unusually  hot  and 
the  atmosphere  very  moist  the  spores  will  gain  a  foothold 
and  we  must  have  the  copper  solutions  on  the  surface  of 
the  plant  to  prevent  the  growth  of  the  spores  should  the 
plant  not  be  able  to  withstand  their  attack. 

Some  seasons,  and  often  for  a  series  of  years,  our  trees 
escape  injury  from  fungous  pests,  but  we  cannot  hope  to 
escape  always,  and  it  is  the  part  of  wisdom  to  learn  with 
what  pests  we  are  threatened,  what  is  the  best  remedy,  and 
how  and  when  to  apply  such  remedies  as  to  most  certainly 
destroy  each  pest. 

Fungicides. 
(Fungus-destroyers.) 

COPPER  SULPHATE  (Blue  Vitriol).— Copper  has  long  been 
known  to  be  destructive  to  the  spores  of  nearly  all  kinds  of 


INSECTS  AND   tfUKGl.  267 


moulds,  mildews,  rusts,  etc.,  but  not  until  within  a  few 
years  has  it  been  largely  used  for  the  purpose  of  destroying 
these  growths  on  cultivated  trees,  plants,  and  farm  crops. 
The  form  in  which  it  is  most  used  is  that  of  copper  sulphate 
or  blue  vitriol,  in  which  the  copper  is  united  with  sulphuric 
acid  and  is  in  the  form  of  blue  crystals.  In  this  form  it  is 
very  soluble  and  very  injurious  to  the  growing  parts  of 
plants  unless  used  in  a  very  dilute  form;  1  part  of  copper 
sulphate  to  1500  or  2000  parts  of  water  being  as  concen- 
trated as  it  can  be  used  without  injury.  In  this  form  it  is 
quickly  washed  off  by  heavy  rains  and  to  prevent  this  lime 
is  used  with  it,  forming  what  is  known  as  the 

BORDEAUX  MIXTURE.  —  Formula:  4  Ibs.  copper  sul- 
phate, 4  Ibs.  caustic  (unslaked)  lime,  and  50  gallons  water. 

By  combining  the  copper  and  lime  it  is  found  that  the 
copper  sulphate  may  be  used  more  freery  and  with  less  injury 
than  if  used  alone,  and  that  it  will  adhere  a  long  time  to 
the  foliage.  To  make  the  Bordeaux  mixture,  dissolve  the 
copper  in  hot  water  (or  if  placed  in  a  coarse  sack  or  basket 
and  suspended  in  a  tub  of  cold  water  it  will  dissolve  in  two 
or  three  hours,  while  if  put  in  cold  water  on  the  bottom 
of  a  tub  or  vessel  it  remains  undissolved  for  a  long  time). 
Then  in  a  separate  tub  slake  the  lime  thoroughly  and  when 
both  are  cold  pour  the  two  together,  stirring  constantly. 
Dilute  with  water  to  make  50  gals,  of  liquid.  In  this 
form  it  is  more  difficult  to  apply  than  a  simple  solution, 
but  the  lime  causes  it  to  adhere  for  a  long  time  and  spray- 
ing need  not  be  so  frequently  done.  Before  using,  the 
mixture  should  be  strained  through  a  burlap  or  fine  wire 
strainer  to  take  out  the  coarse  particles  of  lime.  The 
Vermorel  or  some  other  adjustable  nozzle  that  will  throw 
a  very  fine  spray  or  mist  must  be  used  to  distribute  the 


268  LANDSCAPE 

material  evenly  and  without  waste  over  the  surface  of  the 
plants. 

If  insects  are  found  attacking  the  plants  to  be  treated 
for  f ung  ms  growths,  Paris  green  may  be  added  to  the 
Bordeaux  mixture  at  the  rate  of  from  1  Ib.  to  100  or  200 
gals,  of  the  mixture,  and,  as  stated  on  a  previous  page,  the 
lime  will  prevent  this  large  quantity  of  the  Paris  green  from 
burning  the  foliage  and  two  pests  be  destroyed  at  one 
spraying. 

AMMONIACAL  CARBONATE  OF  COPPER. — In  conspicuous 
places  the  Bordeaux  mixture  is  objectionable  on  account  of 
the  deposits  of  lime  and  copper  that  remain  on  the  foliage, 
and  therefore  the  above  form  of  copper  is  used  under  such 
conditions.  It  is  equally  effectual  with  the  Bordeaux  mix- 
ture while  it  remains  on  the  plant,  but,  being  quickly  solu- 
ble, is  washed  off  with  heavy  rains  and  requires  frequent 
renewals.  It  is  also  more  expensive  than  the  Bordeaux 
mixture. 

Formula :  3  oz.  copper  carbonate,  3  qts.  ammonia  or 
sufficient  to  dissolve  the  copper,  the  quantity  depending 
upon  its  strength.  When  used,  dilute  to  make  25  gals,  of 
liquid. 

COPPER-SULPHATE  SOLUTION. — A  simple  solution  of 
copper  sulphate,  4  oz.  to  50  gallons,  is  about  equally  effect- 
ual with  the  last  and  much  less  expensive.  It  must,  how- 
ever, be  used  after  every  rain. 

Pumps,  etc.,  for  Applying  Insecticides  and  Fungicides. 

For  the  application  of  insecticides  and  fungicides  there 
are  a  great  many  pumps,  machines,  and  guns  made  for  the 
purpose,  and  any  of  those  made  by  reliable  and  long-estab- 
lished firms  may  be  relied  upon  to  do  good  work.  In  every 


INJURIOUS   INSECTS   AND   FUNGI.  269 

case  it  is  desirable,  if  possible,  to  obtain  a  pump  made  as 
near  home  as  possible,  that  parts  may  be  replaced  or  repairs 
be  made  in  case  of  breakage  with  as  little  delay  as  possible. 

Nozzles. 

The  number  of  nozzles  made  for  distributing  insecticides 
and  fungicides  is  almost  as  great  as  that  of  pumps,  and 
there  are  many  good  ones.  To  do  the  best  work  the  nozzle 
must  discharge  a  fine  mist-spray  that  will  settle  upon  the 
foliage  and  other  parts  sprayed  in  very  small  particles  and 
not  run  off.  The  one  that  gives  the  finest  spray  without 
clogging  is  the  most  satisfactory. 

To  carry  the  spray  to  the  tops  of  trees  of  medium  height 
the  bamboo  extension-rod  or  ^-inch  brass  pipe  from  6  to  10 
feet  long  can  be  used  with  success,  but  to  carry  it  into  very 
tall  trees  the  hose  must  be  carried  up  into  the  tree  and  the 
insecticides  or  fungicides  distributed  therefrom.  With  a 
large  pump  worked  by  two  or  three  men  or  a  small  engine 
two  or  three  streams  may  be  thrown  at  once  and  the  work 
be  done  rapidly  and  cheaply. 

Some  Common  Insects  Injurious  to  Ornamentals. 

ELM-BEETLE  (Galeruca  xanthomelcena) ,  Fig.  154. — This 
insect  (&),  a  beetle  of  yellowish-brown  color,  about  J-  inch 
long,  somewhat  resembling  the  striped  cucumber-beetle,  ap- 
pears in  the  perfect  or  beetle  form  in  early  summer  and  lays 
its  eggs  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaves  as  they  unfold.  These 
eggs  are  bottle-shaped,  of  orange  color,  are  laid  in  clusters 
of  from  5  to  20,  and  attached  to  the  leaf  by  the  larger  end  (e). 
The  eggs  soon  hatch,  and  the  larvae  (#),  of  a  slender  form, 
about  -^  inch  long  when  fully  grown,  and  yellowish-brown 
color  with  a  yellow  line  or  band  along  the  back,  feed  rapid iy 
and  in  from  two  to  four  weeks  descend  to  the  ground,  "where 


270 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


they  pupate  under  some  convenient  shelter.     In  some  sec 
tions  of  the  country  as  many  as  three  or  four  broods  are 


produced  in  a  season,  but  in  northern  New  England  it  has 
not  been  proved  that  more  than  one  brood  matures. 

Remedy. — This  pest  is  destroyed  by  spraying  with  Paris 
green,  1  Ib.  to  200  gals,  of  water,  or  if  2  Ibs.  of  caustic  lime 


INJURIOUS   INSECTS   AXD   FUXGI. 


271 


be  slaked,  strained,  and  put  into  the  water  2  Ibs.  of  Paris 
green  may  be  used  with,  the  same  amount  of  water,  i.e., 
1  Ib.  to  100  gals,  of  water.  The  time  for  spraying  is  the 
last  of  May  or  early  in  June  for  the  destruction  of  the 


beetles,  and  again  about  the  middle  of  June  for  the  larvae, 
and  if  all  the  larvae  are  not  destroyed  by  the  first  spraying 
one  or  two  more  applications  at  intervals  of  a  week  or  ten 
days  must  be  made. 


272  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

ELM-SCALE  (Gossyparia  ulmi),  Fig.  155.— Very  little 
seems  to  be  known  about  the  life -hi  story  of  this  insect,  and 
yet  it  is  one  of  the  most  widely  distributed  and  injurious 
insects  attacking  the  elm.  It  is  a  small,  soft  scale  insect  of 
a  whitish  color  (/)  that  attacks  both  the  American  and 
European  species  of  the  elm.  It  is  fonnd  on  tlie  under  side 
of  the  branches,  and  when  crushed  leaves  -a  stain  on  the 
fingers  or  clothing  much  like  that  of  iron-rust.  It  injures 
the  trees  by  sucking  the  juices  of  the  young  shoots  and 
small  branches.  In  many  sections  in  Massachusetts  they 
were  so  abundant  during  the  season  of  1895  that  the 
leaves  and  bark  of  almost  every  tree  were  badly  covered  with 
a  black  substance  resulting  from  the  dust  of  the  atmosphere 
adhering  to  the  sticky  exudations  made  by  the  insects 
deposited  upon  them,  arid  from  a  black  fungous  growth 
similar  to  that  found  in  the  exudations  of  the  pear-tree 
Psylla  in  our  pear  orchards.  The  leaves  were  also  of  a 
sickly  yellow  color  and  the  trees  made  a  very  small  growth. 

Remedy. — It  has  been  found  to  be  destroyed  by  the  kero- 
sene emulsion,  applied  thoroughly  at  the  time  when  the 
young  are  hatching  out  and  moving  from  near  the  parent 
scale  to  other  parts  of  the  tree  for  permanent  location,  and 
again  from  five  to  ten  days  later.  By  close  attention  about 
June  1st  the  best  time  can  be  easily  determined. 

MAPLE-BORER  (Plagionotus  spcciosus),  Fig.  156. — In 
most  sections  where  the  sugar-maple  thrives  this  insect  is 
more  or  less  injurious,  though  it  is  said  to  sometimes  attack 
other  species.  It  is  a  very  dangerous  insect  enemy,  because  its 
work  is  difficult  to  detect  until  serious  harm  has  been  done. 
The  perfect  insect  is  a  beetle  nearly  an  inch  long,  the  head 
is  yellow,  the  thorax  black,  with  transverse  yellowish  spots, 
and  the  wing-covers  are  yellow  and  black.  The  beetles 


INJURIOUS    INSECTS    AND    FUNGI.  273 

appear  in  July  and  August,  and  lay  their  eggs  on  the  bark 
during  the  latter  part  of  the  last-named  month.  The  eggs 
soon  hatch  and  the  larvae  or  young  work  a  short  distance 
under  the  surface  of  the  bark,  the  first  season  throwing  out 
chips  and  droppings  from  their  holes.  If  not  molested, 
the  following  season  they  go  on  feeding  and  working  deeper 


FIG.  156. — MAPLE-BORER. 

(Saunders  :  5th  Report  U.  S.  Ent.  Com.,  p.  375,  Fig.  137.) 

through  the  bark  and  sapwood,  making  a  tortuous  burrow 
not  far  from  the  surface,  often  nearly  J  of  an  inch  in 
diameter  and  sometimes  girdling  the  tree.  As  many  as 
twenty  have  been  found  in  a  single  tree. 

Remedy. — The  only  effectual  remedy  is  to  dig  the  borers 
out  before  they  have  done  much  harm,  i.e.,  the  first  fall  or 
following  spring  after  the  eggs  are  laid.  This  may  be  very 
easily  done  with  little  or  no  injury  to  the  tree.  The  bark 
should  be  carefully  scraped  and  after  a  few  days  the  surface 
carefully  examined,  when  the  exuded  dust  or  chips  will 
enable  one  to  quickly  detect  the  location  of  the  borer.  If 
the  insects  have  already  done  serious  harm  to  the  tree,  all 
holes  or  channels  made  by  them  should  be  filled  up  with 
putty,  grafting-wax,  or  a  thick  paint.  Possibly  the  paint- 
ing of  the  trunk  with  lime  or  Portland-cement  wash  con- 
taining Paris  green  at  the  rate  of  4  oz.  to  the  gallon  may 


274  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

prove  effectual  in  destroying  many  of  the  larvae  as  they 
work  their  way  into  the  tree. 

CANKER-  WORMS  (Anisopteryx  pometaria  and  Palceacrita 
vernata),  Figs.  157  and  158.  —  These  insects  extend  over  a 


%£    6 

FIG.  157.  — CANKER-WORM. 

(Riley  •  Circular  No  9,  2d  Series,  Dept.  Agr.,  Fig.  1.) 

wide  area  of  the  country,  and  are  very  injurious  to  the  elm, 
apple,  and  some  other  trees.  The  male  (a)  insect  is  a  grayish 
moth  of  about  -J-  inch  stretch  of  wings  and  flies  in  the  night, 
while  the  female  (b)  has  no  wi ngs.  The  female  crawls  up  the 
tree  and  lays  its  eggs  in  clusters  on  the  branches  during  the 
night  at  any  time  from  October  15th  to  April  15th  when  the 
ground  is  not  frozen  and  in  warm,  moist,  nights.  The  eggs 
hatch  out  about  the  time  the  buds  unfold,  and  unless 
destroyed  the  larvae  soon  eat  all  of  the  leaves  but  the 
skeleton  and  midrib,  giving  the  trees  the  appearance  of  a 
fire  having  burned  off  the  foliage. 

Remedy. — The  remedy  so  generally  used  of  putting  bands 
of  tar  or  printer's  ink,  or  of  tin  or  other  kind  of  troughs 
with  oil  in  them,  around  the  trees  to  prevent  the  female 
insects  from  reaching  the  branches  is  effectual  provided 
the  band  is  kept  covered  with  soft  ink  or  tar  or  the  trough 
is  well  filled  with  oil  when  the  insects  are  moving,  i.e.,  at  any 
time  when  there  is  no  frost  in  the  ground,  on  warm  nights 
from  November  15th  to  April  15th.  The  more  satisfactory 
remedy,  except  for  very  tall  trees,  however,  is  to  give  the 
insects  no  attention  until  the  eggs  begin  to  hatch  out,  and 


INJURIOUS   INSECTS   AND   FUNGI. 


275 


then  to  destroy  the  larvae  by  spraying  with  Paris  green  used 
as  for  the  elm-beetle,  making  two  applications,  one  when 
the  first  eggs  hatch  and  then  again  in  from  five  to  eight 
days,  according  to  the  weather,  or  when  all  of  the  eggs  are 
hatched  out.  Success  in  this  work  depends  upon  how  much 
Paris  green  is  used  and  how  thoroughly  the  foliage  is 
covered  with  it.  For  the  amount  of  Paris  green  to  use  and 
method  of  application  see  "  Treatment  of  the  Elm-beetle," 
pages  269  and  270. 

BORERS. — The  maple-borer,  Fig.  156,  has  already  been 
described,  but  there  are  many  ornamental  trees  besides  the 


FIG.  158.— CANKER-WORM. 

(Riley  :  Circular  No.  9,  2d  Series,  Dept.  Agr.,  Fig.  3  ) 

maple  that  are  injured  by  borers.     The  thorns,  flowering 
apple,  and  some  other  trees  are  injured  by  the  ROUND- 


a         b  c  d 

FIG.  159. — ROUND-HEADED  APPLE-BORER. 

(Chittenden  :  Circular  No.  32,  2d  Series,  Dept.  Agr.,  Fig.  1.) 


276 


LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


HEADED  APPLE-BORER  (Sapertla  Candida),  Fig.  159,  and  the 
FLAT-HEADED  BORER  (CUrysobotliris  femorata),  Fig.  160; 


FIG,  160.— FLAT-HEADED  APPLE-BORER. 

(Chittenden  :  Circular  No.  32,  2d  Series,  Dept.  Agr.,  Fig.  3.) 


the  flowering  peach,  plums,  and  cherries  are  injured  by 
the  PEACH-BORER  (Sannina  exitiosa),  Fig.  161.     Willows, 


FIG.  161. —PEACH-BORER. 

(Marlott :  Circular  No.  17,  2d  Series,  Dept.  Ayr.,  Fig.  1.) 

lindens,  poplars,  locusts,  and  many  other  trees  are  also 
injured  by  borers.  These  are  to  be  destroyed  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  maple-borers,  i.e.,  by  digging  them  out, 
carefully  examining  all  trees  twice  each  season — in  June 
and  August 


INJURIOUS   INSECTS   AND    FUNGI.  27? 

ROSE-BUG    OR    -CHAFER    (Macrodactylus  subspinosu*), 
Fig.  162. — This  insect  needs  no  description,  and  no  one 


FIG.  162.—  ROSE-BUG  OR  -CHAFER. 

(Riley  :  "  Insect  Life,'1  Vol.  II.,  p.  295,  Fig.  61.) 

insect  is  more  injurious  to  so  many  kinds  of  trees  and 
shrubs  and  none  more  difficult  to  destroy  or  prevent  from 
doing  much  harm. 

Remedy.  —  Where  Paris  green  can  be  safely  used,  as  it  can 
be  upon  all  trees  and  plants  producing  flowers  that  are  not 
cut  for  house  or  personal  decoration  or  that  produce  no 
edible  fruit,  this  is  the  most  certain  remedy.  On  roses  it 
can  be  used  until  the  blossoms  are  nearly  open  and  longer 
if  the  flowers  are  allowed  to  remain  on  the  bushes  until  the 
petals  fall.  Pyrethrum-powder  dusted  over  the  bushes  each 
forenoon  and  again  in  the  afternoon  in  bright  weather  will 
drive  the  beetles  away,  but  they  soon  return  and  the  remedy 
must  be  repeated  each  day  until  they  are  done  working. 
If  this  powder  has  been  kept  over  one  season  or  a  consider- 


278  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

able  time  in  an  open  package,  it  loses  its  strength.  It 
should  always  be  kept  in  a  sealed  can  or  glass-stoppered 
bottle,  and  a  fresh  supply  be  obtained  each  season.  Where 
rose-bushes  are  but  few,  these  insects  can  be  kept  from 
doing  serious  injury  by  hand-picking;  the  easiest  way  tc 
gather  them  being  to  take  a  broad,  shallow  tin  basin,  put  ir. 
a  little  water  with  a  tablespoonful  of  kerosene  on  top 
hold  the  basin  under  the  part  of  the  bush  examined,  and 
touching  the  insects  they  will  fall  into  the  pan  and  be 
destroyed. 

ROSE-SLUG  (Monostegia  rosed)  ^  Fig.  163. — The  rose-slug 


FIG.  163.— ROSE-SLUG. 
(Riley  :  "  Insect  Life,"  Vol.  V.,  p.  274,  Fig.  37.) 

is  the  larvae  of  one  of  the  saw-flies.  The  perfect  insect 
comes  out  of  the  ground  the  last  of  May  or  early  in  June. 
The  eggs  are  laid  under  the  epidermis  or  skin  of  the  leaf, 
and  the  larvas  appear  in  about  two  weeks,  feeding  upon  the 
soft  green  parts  of  the  leaf  and  leaving  nothing  but  the 
midrib,  veins,  and  epidermis  on  one  surface.  It  is  of  a 
greenish  color,  nearly  transparent,  the  head  much  larger 
than  the  posterior  part  of  the  body.  It  feeds  rapidly  and 
must  be  attended  to  soon  after  the  eggs  hatch. 

Remedy. — Dusting  or  spraying  with  hellebore  or  pyre- 
thrum-powder  is  a  certain  remedy.     If  the  dry  powder  is 


INJURIOUS   INSECTS   AND   FUNGI.  2?0 

used,  it  must  be  applied  when  the  foliage  is  wet  with  rain 
or  dew.  When  used  in  water,  1  tablespoonful  to  a 
common  2-gal.  pail  of  water  is  about  the  right  quantity. 

KOSE-LEAF  HOPPER  (Typhlocyba  rosed). — This  insect  is 
small,  almost  white  in  color,  and  flies  or  jumps  about  when- 
ever the  trees  or  bushes  are  suddenly  jarred.  It  feeds  upon 
the  green  coloring-matter  of  the  leaf,  sucking  out  the 
juices,  making  very  numerous  small  white  spots  until  the 
leaf  becomes  very  light  green  or  almost  white.  It  is 
especially  injurious  to  the  rose,  grape-vine,  etc.,  though  it 
attacks  some  other  shrubs  and  trees. 

Remedy .—The  remedy  is  thorough  spraying  with  kero- 
sene emulsion,  or  by  the  use  of  pyrethrum  applied  just  at 
night  it  may  be  kept  under  control. 

RED  SPIDER  (Tetranicns  telarius). — This  insect  is  so 
minute  as  to  be  difficult  to  detect  with  the  naked  eye  except 
by  the  closest  inspection  until  it  has  done  considerable 
mischief,  when  its  work  is  shown  in  the  light  green  or  grayish 
color  of  the  leaves  attacked.  It  works  only  in  very  dry  and 
hot  weather,  when  it  increases  very  rapidly  and  attacks  a 
great  many  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs  under  the  above  con- 
ditions. 

Remedy. — As  this  insect  cannot  exist  in  a  moist,  cool 
atmosphere,  the  spraying  of  the  trees  with  cold  water 
applied  with  considerable  force  is  a  certain  remedy,  a  heavy 
thunder-shower  often  completely  checking  their  work. 
Dusting  the  foliage  with  flowers  of  sulphur  when  the  leaves 
are  wet  will  also  have  a  beneficial  effect. 

APHIDES  (Aphis  sp.). — There  is  hardly  a  species  of  tree 
or  shrub  that  is  not  more  or  less  affected  by  aphides  (or 
plant-lice  so  called),  yet  but  few  of  them  are  seriously  in- 
jured. One  season  they  are  abundant  and  do  much  harm, 


280  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

and  another  very  few  and  do  little  injury.  These  insects 
increase  with  astonishing  rapidity;  a  single  pair,  it  is  said, 
may  be  responsible  under  favorable  conditions  of  food  and 
temperature  for  more  than  1,000,000,000  progeny  in  a 
single  season.  They  injure  plant-tissues  by  sucking  the 
juices  of  the  tender  parts,  and  when  numerous  all  of  the 
terminal  shoots  are  stopped  in  growth  and  the  tree  or 
plant  has  a  stunted,  sickly  appearance.  When  the  leaves 
alone  are  attacked,  they  curl  and  roll  up,  and  are  soon 
covered  with  black  substances  collected  from  the  dust  of  the 
atmosphere  coming  in  contact  with  the  sticky  surface 
caused  by  the  exudations  of  the  aphides. 

Remedy. — The  application  of  kerosene  emulsion  with 
force  enough  to  drive  it  under  the  curled  leaf  is  the  most 
satisfactory  remedy.  If  very  abundant,  the  10-gal.  formula 
should  be  used.  On  small  trees  and  shrubs,  where  the 
branches  can  be  bent  down,  dipping  the  ends  into  the 
emulsion  would  be  most  satisfactory,  or  the  strong  solution 
may  be  applied  with  a  soft  paint-brush. 

SCALE  INSECTS. — Scale  insects  are  among  the  most 
destructive  of  the  sucking  kinds,  and  several  species  are 
very  abundant.  Among  those  most  to  be  feared  are  the 
OYSTER-SHELL  SCALE  and  the  SAN  JOSE  SCALE.  The 
former  (Mytelaspis  pomorum) ,  Fig.  164,  is  very  common  on 
ash,  willows,  lilacs,  hawthorn,  and  on  the  flowering  apples. 
In  shape  it  resembles  the  oyster-shell,  is  of  a  brown  color, 
about  -J  of  an  inch  long  by  31g  wide,  and  injures  the  tree  by 
sucking  the  juices  from  the  growing  shoots  and  branches. 
At  c  it  is  shown  natural  size.  The  eggs  hatch  out  from 
under  the  parent  shell  the  last  of  June  or  early  July,  and 
the  young  swarrn  out  and  soon  fix  themselves  on  other 
branches,  feeding  at  this  point  until  they  reach  full  size, 


INJURIOUS   INSECTS   AND   FUNGI. 


281 


when  they  die,  leaving  the  young  or  eggs  protected  by 
their  dead  bodies. 


FIG.  164.— OYSTER-SHELL  SCALE. 

(Howard  :  "  Year  Book,'?  Dept.  Agr.,  1894,  p.  257,  Fig,  26.) 

Remedy. — This  pest  may  be  destroyed  by  painting  during 
the  winter  with  a  very  light  coat  of  linseed-oil,  by  washing 
with  strong  caustic  potash,  1  Ib.  to  2  qts.  water,  by  strong 
whale-oil  soap,  2  Ibs.  to  1  gal.  of  water,  applied  while  the 
trees  are  dormant,  or  by  kerosene  emulsion  used  just  after 
the  young  insects  ha^e  left  the  cover  of  the  parent  scale  and 
have  a  very  delicate  covering. 

The  SAN  JOSE  SCALE  (Aspidiotusperniciosus),  Fig.  165, 
so  destructive  to  all  kinds  of  fruit  and  many  ornamental 


282 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 


trees  in  California  and  the  South,  has  been  largely  dis- 
tributed about  the  country,  having  been  found  in  16  of  the 


I    ,;' 


FIG.  165.— SAN  JOSE  SCALE. 

(Howard  :  "  Insect  Life,1'  Vol.  VII.,  p.  235,  Fig.  23.) 

45  States,  and  may  prove  a  troublesome  pest  unless  at  once 
destroyed.  The  perfect  insect  is  circular  in  outline,  of  a 
gray  color,  varying  from  ^  to  -fo  of  an  inch  in  diameter, 
and  generally  with  a  black  spot  in  the  centre.  It  is  so 
small  as  to  escape  notice  until  it  has  increased  to  great 
numbers  and  it  propagates  very  rapidly.  It  injures  plant- 
growth  in  same  way  as  the  last  by  sucking  the  juices  of  the 


INJURIOUS   INSECTS   AND   FUNGI.  283 

tender  parts.  There  are  many  species  of  scale  insects  so 
closely  resembling  this  pest  that  when  insects  of  this  kind 
are  found  they  should  be  sent  to  the  experiment  station 
entomologists  for  identification  and  suggestions  as  to 
remedies. 

Remedy. — This  pest  has  been  destroyed  in  some  cases  by 
the  same,  but  more  concentrated,  remedies  as  used  for  the 
oyster-shell  scale.  The  applications  should  be  made  more 
thoroughly  and  more  frequent  use  of  the  kerosene  emulsion 
during  the  summer.  Clear  kerosene  sprayed  upon  the 
branches  iu  a  fine  mist,  so  that  no  drops  may  be  formed, 
while  the  trees  are  dormant,  has  proved  effectual  in  destroy- 
ing the  pest.  In  using  clear  kerosene  care  must  be  taken 
that  no  drops  are  formed  or  that  it  does  not  run  down  the 
branches.  It  is  best  always  to  use  it  on  a  clear  bright  day, 
that  it  may  evaporate  rapidly  and  before  any  injury  is 
done. 

MAPLE  WOOLLY  SCALE  (Pseudococcus  aceris),  Fig.  166. 
— This  comparatively  new  insect  pest  has  appeared  in 
several  sections  of  the  country,  but  thus  far  has  been  found 
only  on  the  soft  maples.  In  Europe  it  is  reported  to  be 
injurious  to  the  linden,  elm,  chestnut,  etc.  (see  "  Bulletin 
N.  H.  Ex.  Station,  Ko.  36"),  and  should  it  increase  in 
this  country  will  prove  a  very  troublesome  pest.  It  is 
somewhat  of  the  nature  of  the  scale  and  aphis,  sucking  the 
juices  of  the  plant  upon  which  it  feeds;  its  body  and  the 
masses  of  eggs  which  it  lays  being  covered  with  a  white 
cottony  or  woolly  substance,  from  which  it  takes  its 
name. 

Remedy  — While  no  experiments  have  been  made,  or  at 
least  reported,  to  prove  the  value  of  the  various  common 
insecticides  in  destroying  this  pest,  from  the  nature  of  the 


284 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 


insect  it  seems  probable  that  the  kerosene  emulsion  will  be 
effectual  if  applied  with  considerable  force  so  as  to  throw  it 


FIG.  166. — MAPLE  SCALE. 

(Howard  :  Circular,  No.  3,  Dept.  Agr.,  2d  Series,  Fig.  1.) 

in  under  the  mass  of  insects  and  eggs  which  are  so  nicely 
protected  by  the  woolly  cover  that  is  of  a  somewhat  oily 
nature,  thus  preventing  watery  liquids  from  adhering  or 
penetrating  to  the  bodies  of  the  insects  or  masses  of  eggs. 


INJURIOUS   INSECTS   AND   FUNGI.  285 

There  are  a  great  many  other  less  injurious  insects  that 
often  appear  in  small  numbers  on  single  trees  or  within 
limited  localities,  sometimes  increasing  rapidly  for  a  time 
and  then  disappearing;  but  the  limits  of  this  volume  will 
not  allow  of  further  space  for  their  description.  We  may 
briefly  say  that  in  a  general  way  the  remedies  already 
described  may  be  applied  to  all  insect  pests,  i.e.,  all  chew- 
ing insects  to  be  destroyed  by  the  use  of  Paris  green  and  all 
sucking  insects  by  the  kerosene  emulsion. 

Whenever  a  new  insect  appears,  if  doing  harm  to  any 
crops,  specimens  should  be  sent  to  the  entomologist  of  the 
experiment-station  of  the  State  in  which  it  is  found,  and 
the  instruction  given  for  its  destruction  be  followed.  These 
stations  are  established  for  the  purpose  of  aiding  the  people 
to  overcome  all  difficulties  in  the  growth  of  ornamental 
or  useful  crops,  and  every  citizen  should  be  free  to  ask  for 
instruction  and  aid  whenever  needed. 

Fungi  Injurious  to  Ornamental  Trees,  Shrubs*  etc. 

The  fungous  growths  that  are  injurious  to  growing  plants 
belong  to  the  group  of  plants  known  as  parasitic  fungi  and 
take  their  food  from  their  host  plant,  i.e.,  the  plant  upon 
which  they  grow,  but  organize  no  plant-food  for  them- 
selves, and  often  they  feed  and  grow  with  such  rapidity  as 
in  a  short  time  to  destroy  the  host  plant  or  seriously 
weaken  it.  Most  of  these  parasites  propagate  from  very 
minute  seed-like  bodies  already  described.  They  grow 
under  favorable  conditions  with  the  most  incredible 
rapidity,  as  may  be  illustrated  by  the  short  time  in  which 
the  leaves  of  a  pear  or  poplar  tree  are  destroyed  by  the 
pear-blight  or  the  poplar-rust.  It  often  takes  but  a  few 
days  of  warm,  moist  weather  to  cause  the  destruction  of  all 
of  the  leaves  of  many  trees,  when  perhaps  the  growth  of 


286  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

but  a  few  spores  only  began  the  work  of  destruction.  It  is 
during  hot,  moist  weather  that  they  grow  most  rapidly,  and 
while  we  may  sometimes  escape  if  we  do  not  use  fungicides, 
the  wise  gardener  will  be  prepared  to  make  the  application 
of  the  fungicides  described  on  previous  pages. 

Among  the  many  fungi  injurious  to  ornamental  trees, 
shrubs,  etc.,  the  following  are  among  the  most  destructive: 

RUSTS. — This  term  has  been  applied  in  more  or  less  of 
an  arbitrary  manner  to  a  large  group  of  fungi  that  produce 
masses  of  spores  on  the  surface  of  the  leaves,  generally 
yellowish  or  brownish  in  color,  but  when  of  a  white  color 
they  are  often  called  the  "  white  rusts  "  or  mildews.  The 
spores  germinate  on  the  surface  of  the  leaves,  their  roots  or 
feeding-parts  (called  mycelia)  penetrate  the  leaf  through 
the  stoma  or  breathing-pores,  and  after  feeding  and  develop- 
ing for  greater  or  less  time,  according  to  the  species  or  the 
condition  of  the  weather,  fruit  (spores)  is  produced  on 
stalks  or  in  masses  on  the  surface  of  the  leaf,  these  spores 
being  scattered  by  the  slightest  breath  of  air.  Of  the  true 
rusts  I  shall  mention  only  a  few  of  the  most  important,  with 
the  remedies  most  effective,  but  many  others  of  a  similar 
character  may  be  destroyed  or  prevented  from  doing  harm 
in  the  same  manner. 

POPLAR-RUST  (Melanosporium  populina),  ROSE-RUST 
(Phragmidium  mucronatum}.  HOLLYHOCK-RUST  (Puccinia 
malvacearuDi),  LINDEN-RUST  (Cercospora  microsora).— 
The  growth  of  all  of  these  pests  takes  place  under  about  the 
same  conditions,  i.e.,  a  weakened  growth  of  the  tree  or 
plant  from  any  cause  and  in  close,  moist,  hot  weather. 
Strong-growing,  healthy  plants  are  less  liable  to  attack  than 
those  of  a  weak  growth,  though  a  too  vigorous  and  soft 
growth  may  be  produced  by  too  much  enrichment  of 


INJURIOUS   INSECTS   AND   FUNGI.  28? 

the  soil,  which  is  as  much  to  be  avoided  as  the  other 
extreme. 

Remedy. — If  copper  in  even  minute  quantities  is  on  the 
leaves  and  branches  so  that  it  will  be  distributed  over  the 
surface  whenever  it  rains  or  is  wet  with  dew  the  spores 
cannot  germinate,  and  the  remedy  to  apply  is  to  spray  the 
branches  thoroughly  with  copper  sulphate,  Lib.  to  25  gals., 
or  strong  Bordeaux  mixture,  before  the  leaves  unfold,  when 
all  of  the  earlier  spores  upon  them  will  be  destroyed.  Then 
if  the  trees  are  where  the  latter  mixture  will  not  be  too 
conspicuous  that  may  be  applied  at  intervals  of  from  two  to 
four  weeks  through  July  and  August.  If  the  trees  are  in 
a  very  conspicuous  place,  the  dilute  copper  sulphate,  1  Ib. 
to  250  to  300  gals.,  may  be  used,  or  the  ammoniacal  car- 
bonate of  copper  will  be  equally  effectual  if  applied  more 
frequently — as  often  as  every  two  weeks  and  after  heavy 
rains.  The  great  advantage  of  the  Bordeaux  mixture  is 
that  it  holds  the  copper  firmly  to  the  leaves  and  with  every 
rain  or  heavy  dew  minute  quantities  are  dissolved  and  the 
spores  are  prevented  from  germinating. 

LEAF-BLIGHTS. — The  leaf-blights  are  unlike  the  rusts  in 
that  they  attack  and  destroy  small  portions  of  the  leaves, 
and  when  these  spots  or  places  of  attack  become  numerous 
the  whole  leaf  is  destroyed  and  it  soon  falls  off.  Among 
the  most  destructive  of  the  leaf-blights  are  the  CATALPA- 
LEAF  SPOT  (Phyllosticta  catalpce}*  CHERRY-  AND  PLUM- 
LEAF  BLIGHT  (Cylindrosporium  Padi),  MAPLE-LEAF  SPOT 
(Phyllosticta  acericolor},  SYCAMORE-LEAF  BLIGHT  (Glceo- 
sporiumnervisequum),  ROSE-LEAF  SPOT  (Actinonema  rosce), 
etc. 

Remedy. — As  with  the  rusts,  the  copper  must  be  on  the 
plants  to  destroy  the  spores  when  they  come  in  contact  with 


288  LANDSCAPE  GARDENING. 

it,  but  when  the  parasite  has  become  fully  established 
nothing  will  destroy  it  that  will  not  destroy  the  host  plant. 
The  treatment  is  the  same  as  for  the  rusts. 

MILDEWS  OR  WHITE  RUSTS  — As  the  name  indicates, 
these  are  parasites  which  produce  white  spores  and  more  or 
less  white  patches  on  the  leaf  or  other  parts.  As  with  the 
two  previously  named  groups,  they  grow  under  conditions 
of  moisture  and  hot,  moist  weather,  and  as  a  rule  they 
appear  later  in  the  season. 

Among  the  most  destructive  of  this  group  are  the  ROSE- 
MILDEW  (Sphcvrollieca  pannosa),  POWDERY  MILDEW  OF 
THE  HAWTHORN,  PLUM,  AND  CHERRY  (PodospUcera  oxy- 
canthm),  DOWNY  MILDEW  OF  THE  WILLOW  (Uncinula 
salicis),  DOWNY  MILDEW  OF  THE  LILAC  (Microsphcera 
Alni  D.  (7.),  etc. 

Remedy. — Coming  on  later  in  the  season  than  the  brown 
rusts,  two  or  three  applications  of  either  the  Bordeaux 
mixture,  dilute  copper  sulphate,  or  the  ammoniacal  car- 
bonate of  copper  will  be  effectual,  but  no  application 
need  be  made  generally  until  the  middle  or  last  of  July. 

Flowers  of  sulphur  if  dusted  over  trees  and  shrubs  will 
often  reduce  the  mildews,  but  not  often  wholly  destroy 
them. 

As  with  new  insects,  fungi  new  to  any  individual  that 
may  appear  to  be  doing  serious  harm  may  be  sent  to  the 
experiment  stations  for  identification  or  for  suggestions  as 
to  the  best  remedies. 


CHAPTER   XVI. 
THE  HOME  FRUIT-GARDEN. 

IN  Chapter  II  some  of  the  advantages  of  the  fruit-  and 
vegetable-garden  to  the  owner  of  a  home  were  briefly  men- 
tioned, and  as  the  aim  of  this  book  is  to  give  practical  in- 
formation along  all  lines  of  outdoor  home  ornamentation 
and  comfort,  a  chapter  on  fruits  will  not  be  out  of  place, 
for  the  fruit-garden  may  be  made  to  serve  also  as  an  im- 
portant feature  of  the  home  ornamentation.  What  can  be 
more  beautiful  than  fruit  trees  when  in  bloom,  or  again 
when  laden  with  highly  colored  fruit  ? — and  they  may  be 
trained  to  as  perfect  and  beautiful  forms  as  many  of  the 
trees  used  only  for  ornament. 

The  shade  afforded  by  a  broad-spreading  apple-tree  is 
quite  as  dense  and  satisfactory  as  that  from  many  other 
species.  In  the  frontispiece  is  shown  a  large  spreading 
apple-tree  on  the  right  of  the  picture  which  has  afforded 
delightful  shade  during  the  summers  for  a  quarter  of  a  cen- 
tury, and,  fruiting  every  alternate  year,  has  yielded  several 
times  10  bbls.  of  choice  fruit  in  a  single  season.  The  fruit 
that  is  obtained  from  the  home  garden  is  so  much  superior 
to  that  obtainable  in  the  markets  that  it  is  worth  a  great 
effort  and  considerable  annoyance  to  have  on  one's  table  an 

abundance  of  such  choice,  fresh,  ripe  fruit. 

289 


290  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 


Size  of  the  Fruit-garden. 

The  amount  of  land  to  be  devoted  to  the  fruit-garden 
must  depend  very  much  upon  size  of  the  lot,  the  number 
and  locality  of  the  buildings,  and  the  amount  of  other 
ornamentation  attempted.  For  the  supply  of  a  large 
family  with  a  liberal  amount  of  all  the  fruits  in  their  season 
will  be  required  a  garden  of  considerable  area,  though  it  is 
surprising  what  a  quantity  can  be  grown  on  a  small  area 
when  skilfully  managed.  An  estimate  of  what  will  be  the 
average  yield  of  the  different  kinds  of  fruits  under  the  best 
conditions  is  as  follows: 

Apples,  per  tree,  30-40  ft.  apart,  at  15  yrs.  from  planting,  3  bbls. 

Pears,       "      "     20        "       "       "  12   "       "  3  bu. 

Plums,     "      "     15        "       "       "  10    "       "  "         |  to  1  bu. 

C£  bu.  in  N. 

Peaches,"      "     15        "       "       "6-15"       "  "       |    E.;l-2bu. 

[  so.ofN.Y. 

Cherries,"      "     20        "       "       "    8    "       "  "         1  bu. 

Quinces,"      "     12      '  "       "       "    8   "       "  "         1  bu. 

Grapes,  per  vine,  8  by  10  ft.  apart,  at  3  yrs.  from  plant- 
ing     5  Ibs. 

Raspberries  and  blackberries  in  rows  7  ft.  apart, 
at  3  years  from  planting 1  bu.  per  sq.  rod. 

Currants  and  gooseberries,  3  by  6  ft.  apart,  at  4 

years  from  planting 1|  bu.  per  sq.  rod. 

Strawberries  in  rows  4  ft.  apart,  at  1  year  from 

planting 1-3  b;i.  per  sq.  rod. 


Location. 

In  locating  the  fruit-garden  that  part  of  the  lot  with 
a   suitable   soil   should,  if   possible,   be   selected,  and   be 


FIG   167.— 


HOME  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

(  10  j  act  paye  291.) 


THE    HOME    F1UTIT- GARDEN.  291 

located  iu  a  rather  secluded  part,  as  more  or  less  of  the 
material  used  and  some  of  the  crops  grown  are  not  of  a 
distinctly  ornamental  character  in  all  stages  of  growth; 
besides,  some  seclusion  is  desirable  when  carrying  on  the 
work  of  planting,  cultivating,  fertilizing,  or  even  harvest- 
ing the  products.  Fig.  167  illustrates  the  fruit-gardea 
located  in  the  southwest  corner  of  the  lot. 

In  this  garden  the  large  and  small  fruits  may  be  grown 
more  or  less  grouped  together,  as  shown  in  the  above  figure, 
though  for  the  best  results  each  kind  should  be  planted 
entirely  distinct  from  the  others.  The  arrangement  in  rows 
as  shown  in  the  figure  is  made  that  the  work  of  cultivating 
may  be  largely  done  by  the  horse-plow  and  cultivator. 

The  Soil. 

Much  of  the  success  of  the  work  in  the  fruit-garden  will 
depend  upon  the  character  of  the  soil.  That  which  is  best 
for  the  greater  variety  of  fruits  is  a  deep  sandy  loam  not 
easily  affected  by  drouth.  Should  the  soil  in  the  different 
parts  of  the  garden  vary,  the  apples,  pears,  quinces,  and 
red  raspberries,  currants,  and  gooseberries  should  be  planted 
en  that  which  is  the  heaviest;  while  the  peach,  cherry, 
grape,  plum,  and  blackberry  will  succeed  in  lighter  soil. 
Any  kind  of  soil,  however,  may  be  improved  somewhat  in 
character  at  a  little  expense.  Thus  a  light  soil  may  be 
made  more  retentive  of  moisture  by  plowing  under  stable 
manure,  leaf-mould,  peat,  etc.,  while  the  moisture  in  such 
a  soil  may  be  conserved  by  deep  plowing  in  the  spring  and 
frequent  stirring  of  the  surface-soil  during  the  summer. 

Very  heavy  soils  may  be  improved  by  nnderdraining,  by 
deep  plowing,  by  the  application  of  sand,  or  by  plowing  the 


292  LANDSCAPE  GARDENING. 

land  into  beds  with  rounded  surfaces  so  that  the  surface- 
water  will  run  off  quickly. 

The  slope  of  the  land  also  affects  some  crops  very 
materially:  thus  a  southern,  southeast,  or  southwest  slope  is 
most  favorable  to  the  growth  and  maturity  of  uhe  grape  and 
to  the  early  ripening  of  the  other  fruits,  while  the  peach, 
quince,  and  raspberry  succeed  better  when  planted  on  a 
northern  exposure. 

A  close  sheltered  place  is  not  desirable  if  peaches, 
cherries,  plums,  and  grapes  are  to  be  grown,  as  fungous  dis- 
eases are  more  liable  to  attack  them  under  such  conditions 
than  if  planted  upon  high  land.  The  latter  is  less  subject 
to  late  frosts  in  the  spring  or  early  frosts  in  the  fall,  while 
in  low  land  the  fruit-buds  are  often  destroyed  by  these 
frosts. 

It  will  often  be  found  that  the  garden  selected  is  not 
suited  to  the  growth  of  some  of  the  fruits,  while  it  is 
especially  adapted  to  the  others,  in  which  case  it  will  be 
found  better  economy  to  devote  the  space  to  those  that  do 
succeed,  and  purchase  such  as  cannot  be  grown  economi- 
cally. 

Tools. 

The  tools  required  for  the  cultivation  of  a  small  garden 
are  not  very  numerous,  and  the  best  will  be  found  none  too 
good  and  the  cheapest  in  the  end  if  well  cared  for.  They 
should  be  light  and  strong,  and  after  using  should  always 
be  cleaned  and  put  carefully  away  where  they  will  be  ready 
for  use  at  any  time.  If  the  garden  is  of  considerable  size 
and  all  the  work  is  to  be  done  by  those  on  the  place^  the 
following  list  of  tools  will  be  needed: 

1  good  side-hill  plow  and  1  small  plow. 


THE   HOME   FRUIT-GARDEtf.  293 

1  Planet  Jr.  cultivator  with  its  various  attachments  will 
answer  all  purposes  for  harrow,  cultivator,  and  marker. 

1  one-horse  cart  or  wagon  will  be  needed  unless  the  heavy 
work  is  to  be  hired  done. 

1  seed-drill  with  cultivator  attachment  will  be  found  a 
very  useful  tool. 

Spades,  spading- forks,  manure-forks,  square-pointed 
shovels,  iron  rakes,  wooden  rakes,  hand-roller,  garden  line 
and  hoes,  in  number  according  to  the  amount  of  work  to 
be  done.  A  good  wheelbarrow  or  hand-cart  will  also  be 
found  useful. 

A  spraying-pump  of  some  sort  must  be  provided  for  the 
application  of  insecticides  and  fungicides.  The  common 
hand  garden-pump  will  be  sufficient  if  only  a  few  trees  are 
to  be  treated,  but  the  barrel-pump  will  be  found  much 
more  serviceable  and  economical. 

Arrangement  of  the  Garden. 

It  is  generally  best  to  have  all  the  fruits  or  vegetables  in 
the  home  garden  grouped  as  compactly  as  possible  in  the 
rear  part  of  the  grounds,  and  as  far  from  the  house  as 
possible,  though  this  part  of  the  grounds  should  be  made 
to  blend  with  the  more  ornamental  features.  Specimen 
trees  of  the  large  fruits  may  be  grouped  by  themselves  or 
among  the  other  ornamental  trees,  as  shown  in  Fig.  167. 
Grape-vines  may  also  serve  to  ornament  the  buildings, 
verandas,  or  trellises  that  may  screen  the  garden  from  too 
full  exposure. 

This  plan  shows  tbe  ornamental  features  of  about  an 
acre  lot  with  the  fruits  grouped  more  or  less  in  tbe  rear  of 
the  house.  In  the  garden  proper  are  arranged  5  apple-trees, 
40  ft.  apart,  with  2  pears,  2  plum,  and  3  peaches,  20  ft.  from 


294  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

each  of  the  other  trees,  planted  so  that  all  may  have  clean 
cultivation;  while  on  UiC  west  and  north  border  as  well 
as  in  two  groups  between  the  house  and  barn  others  are 
located,  which  must  be  grown  in  turf.  These  more  or  less 
blend  with  the  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs.  On  the  north- 
east border  of  this  garden  are  planted  grape-vines  to  serve 
as  a  cover  to  the  trellis  that  screens  the  garden  from  the 
house.  Raspberries,  blackberries,  currants,  and  gooseberries 
are  planted  in  rows  in  the  line  of  and  between  the  trees. 
The  strawberry-bed  is  located  on  the  south  side  of  the 
orchard.  An  asparagus-bed  is  also  chosen  on  the  west  side. 

Turf  Culture. 

One  great  advantage  of  close  grouping,  as  has  been 
stated,  is  that  the  soil  about  the  trees  and  plants  may  be 
cheaply  and  thoroughly  cultivated,  thus  preserving  the 
moisture  and  making  it  unnecessary  to  apply  as  much 
plant-food  as  if  they  were  grown  in  turf.  If,  however,  the 
lawn  is  kept  mown  once  or  twice  each  week  and  a  more 
liberal  supply  of  plant-food  is  applied,  the  growth  of  the 
trees  will  be  found  to  be  satisfactory. 

Should  it  be  found  necessary  to  plant  on  turf  land  where 
a  hay  crop  is  to  be  taken  off,  much  less  growth  must  be 
expected  and  a  much  more  liberal  application  of  plant-food 
be  required  than  where  the  land  is  cultivated,  and  in  times 
of  drouth  a  mulch  of  hay,  straw,  or  other  material,  two  or 
three  inches  in  thickness,  should  be  used  under  the  trees 
as  far  out  as  the  branches  spread  to  prevent  serious  injury. 

Where  to  Obtain  Trees  and  Plants. 

As  a  rule,  where  only  a  small  quantity  of  trees  or  plants 
is  desired,  it  is  best  to  buy  of  the  nearest  reliable  nursery- 


THE   HOME   FfcUlT-GAfcDEK.  295 

man  who  has  the  varieties  wanted  growing  on  his  grounds. 
Those  selected  should  be  young  and  vigorous,  and  it  will 
generally  be  better  for  the  purchaser  to  go  to  the  nursery 
during  the  growing  season  and  make  his  selection,  having 
them  marked  for  delivery  when  they  are  wanted,  or  if  in- 
experienced in  such  matters  the  selection  may  be  left  with 
reliable  nurserymen,  specifying  that  the  stock  shall  be  of 
good  size,  young,  and  vigorous.  Travelling  agents,  unless 
known  to  the  purchaser,  should  not  be  patronized. 

If  the  local  nurseryman  has  not  the  stock  wanted,  a 
specific  order  stating  the  variety,  age,  and  size  of  trees  or 
plants  wanted  sent  in  early  to  any  of  the  many  reliable 
nurserymen  will  be  certain  to  receive  prompt  attention. 
If  the  quantity  ordered  is  not  large,  such  orders  should  be 
sent  by  express,  as  small  packages  sent  by  freight  are_pften 
delayed  in  transportation. 


Preparation  of  the  Land. 

If  the  land  is  new,  i.e.,  if  it  has  been  in  turf  for  some 
time  or  if  under  neglect,  and  the  preparation  can  be  begun 
in  the  fall,  deep  plowing  should  be  done  by  following  the 
common  plow  with  the  trench-  or  subsoil  -plow,  whereby  the 
soil  may  be  loosened  from  15  to  20  inches  deep.  This  will 
make  a  light  soil  more  retentive  of  moisture  and  a  heavy 
soil  more  porous  and  furnish  a  deep  and  well-pulverized 
bed  for  the  roots  to  penetrate. 

Digging  the  Holes  for  Planting. 

In  digging  the  holes  for  the  reception  of  the  trees,  where 
the  land  has  been  deeply  worked  as  above,  only  a  space 
large  enough  to  hold  the  roots  fully  spread  out  need  be 


296  LANDSCAPE  GARDENING. 

excavated,  throwing  oat  the  subsoil,  however,  and  replac- 
ing it  with  good  surface-soil.  On  the  lawn  or  in  grass  land 
holes  considerably  larger  than  the  spread  of  the  roots  should 
be  made  and  the  subsoil  be  dug  up  deeply  or  partly  thrown 
out  if  poor,  and  be  replaced  with  good  soil.  The  turf 
removed  in  digging,  if  any,  may  be  placed  in  the  bottom 
of  the  holes  with  good  results. 

Preparation  of  the  Trees  for  Planting. 

No  matter  how  carefully  trees  may  be  dug  from  the 
nursery,  a  large  per  cent  of  the  fibrous  roots  will  be 
destroyed  and  many  of  the  larger  roots  be  broken,  and  if 
the  tree  is  planted  without  the  removal  of  some  of  its 
branches  when  it  starts  into  growth  in  the  spring  the 
number  of  buds  is  so  great  that  the  supply  of  moisture  from 
the  roots  will  be  insufficient  to  sustain  a  vigorous  growth, 
and  all  may  finally  fail;  while  if  the  larger  part  ot"  the 
branches  had  been  removed  the  few  buds  that  remain 
would  start  vigorously  and  sufficient  moisture  be  supplied 
to  sustain  continuous  and  rapid  growth  until  new  roots  and 
vigorous  leaf-surface  is  formed,  without  which  good  growth 
cannot  take  place. 

In  pruning  young  fruit-trees  for  transplanting  all 
branches  not  needed  for  the  formation  of  a  symmetrical 
head  should  be  removed,  and  those  remaining  be  shortened 
in  more  or  less,  according  to  the  amount  of  injury  to  the 
roots.  Young  trees  with  few  lateral  branches  are  often 
trimmed  up  to  a  "whip-stock."  This  is  especially  the 
practice  with  peach-trees. 


THE   HOME  FRU1T-GARDEK.  29? 


Planting  Fruit-trees,  Vines,  and  Plants. 

The  best  time  and  the  methods  of  planting  have  already 
been  discussed  on  pages  53  to  61,  which  see.  All  trees 
should  have  been  ordered  in  the  fall  or  very  early  in  the 
spring,  and  every  thing  possible  be  in  readiness  for  planting 
when  the  trees  arrive.  Trees  or  plants  never  should  be 
planted  when  the  soil  is  so  full  of  moisture  as  to  be  sticky  or 
compact  into  solid  masses  when  pressed,  but  be  in  condition 
to  crumble  finely  when  turned  over  with  the  spade  or  plow. 
The  subsoil  thrown  out  in  digging  the  holes  should  never 
be  put  close  about  the  roots,  but  after  planting  be  spread 
about  on  the  surface  and  only  good  soil  be  used  about  the 
roots. 

Forming  the  Head  and  Pruning. 

When  trees  are  set  closely  and  where  small  fruits  are 
planted  between  them,  the  head  or  main  branches  must  be 
carried  higher  than  if  only  trees  were  planted  in  order  to 
facilitate  comfortable  working  among  them.  The  main 
branches  in  this  case  must  be  started  about  5  feet  from  the 
ground.  On  the  lawn  and  where  nothing  is  grown  under 
the  trees  the  branches  may  siart  at  2  or  3  feet  from  the 
ground  unless  it  is  desired  to  have  them  higher  for  shade  or 
for  obtaining  views  tinder  the  branches.  If  used  as  a  screen, 
it  is  desirable  to  have  them  branch  from  the  ground  up,  and 
low-headed  trees  are  much  more  easily  cared  for,  the  fruit 
more  easily  gathered,  and  they  will  generally  life  longer. 

The  amount  of  after-pruning  required,  if  properly  formed 
at  planting,  is  very  small  if  the  trees  have  full  exposure  on 
all  sides;  and  if  the  trees  are  examined  several  times  during 


the  growing  season  perfect  form  may  be  produced  with 
only  the  finger  and  thumb  and  a  small  pocket-knife,  and 
this  without  the  loss  of  any  growth  of  wood,  which  would 
be  the  result  if  pruning  is  only  done  at  the  end  of  the 
growing  season. 

Up  to  the  time  of  fruiting  all  the  pruning  fruit-trees 
properly  cared  for  will  need  is  that  mentioned  above;  but 
after  they  begin  to  bear  the  branches  will  often  droop  so 
much  as  to  require  removal,  or  they  may  cross  one  another 
so  as  to  be  injured,  but  in  no  case  should  large  branches  be 
removed  when  it  can  possibly  be  avoided,  as  every  cut  made 
on  the  trunk  or  main  branches  of  a  tree  will  more  or  less 
shorten  its  life.  Broken  branches  should  be  cut  back  to 
the  solid  wood  and  all  dead  branches  be  removed,  bat  every 
wound  made  in  this  work  should  be  covered  at  once  with 
linseed-oil  paint,  or  some  other  preservative.  Where  large 
branches  must  be  removed,  the  saw  should  be  used  and 
never  the  axe,  as  the  latter  cracks  the  wood  more  or  less 
and  decay  will  follow  much  more  quickly  than  if  the  saw  is 
used.  In  removing  large  branches  always  cut  on  the  under 
side  of  the  branch  first,  that  when  it  falls  the  bark  may  not 
be  torn  from  the  trunk.  Suckers  that  come  out  along  the 
main  branches  should  be  removed  while  they  are  soft  and 
can  be  easily  rubbed  off,  that  the  growth  that  would  go  into 
them  if  allowed  to  remain  may  go  into  the  permanent 
growth  of  the  tree. 

The  tops  of  trees  that  tend  to  grow  too  tall  and  spind- 
ling should  be  pinched  off  before  they  have  made  much 
growth,  thus  forcing  the  growth  into  the  lower  branches, 
where  it  is  much  more  desired.  Cuts  made  at  the  ends  of 
the  branches  do  little  or  no  harm  to  the  vitality  of  the 
tree. 


THE   HOME  FRUIT-GARDEN.  •  299 

Special  Treatment  for  Growing  Fruits. 

THE    APPLE. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  healthful  and  easily  grown  of  all 
of  the  fruits  of  the  temperate  zone.  It  succeeds  best  in  a 
deep  moist  loam  and  begins  to  bear  crops  of  some  value  at 
from  8  to  10  years  from  planting.  For  the  best  result  it 
should  be  planted  at  from  30  to  40  feet  apart,  according  to 
the  variety  and  nature  of  the  soil;  such  varieties  as  the 
Baldwin,  King,  Roxbury  Russet,  Gravenstein,  etc.,  on  rich 
land  will  need  the  larger  space,  while  on  a  light  soil  the 
smaller  distance  may  be  sufficient.  The  Fameuse,  Porter, 
Astrachan,  etc.,  may  be  planted  even  on  a  rich  soil  at  30  feet 
apart. 

The  varieties  that  will  give  the  best  results  vary  some- 
what in  different  sections  of  the  country,  and  those  who  are 
thinking  of  planting  should  consult  successful  growers  in 
their  own  vicinity.  This  will  apply  to  all  kinds  of  fruits. 
The  author  suggests  the  Astrachau,  Gravenstein,  Baldwin, 
Rhode  Island  Greening,  Button  Beauty,  and  Roxbury 
Russet  as  generally  succeeding. 

Fertilizers. 

One  of  the  most  important  conditions  in  securing  good 
fruit  is  sufficient  plant-food  to  give  the  tree  a  moderately 
vigorous  growth  and  healthy  foliage.  To  give  these  results 
on  the  average  soil  will  require,  according  to  the  size  of 
the  tree,  5  to  10  Ibs.  fine-ground  rock  phosphate,  sown  in 
the  fall  or  winter,  2  to  5  Ibs.  nitrate  of  soda,  sown  just  as 
growth  is  beginning  in  the  spring,  and  3  to  5  Ibs.  of  sul- 
phate of  potash,  sown  at  any  time  during  the  winter  or 
early  spring.  These  materials  may  be  mixed  and  sown 


300  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

together  or  put  on  separately.  10  to  20  Ibs.  of  fine-ground 
bone,  according  to  size  of  tree  and  the  soil,  may  be  applied 
in  place  of  the  rock  phosphate  and  nitrate  of  soda.  25  Ibs. 
of  hard-wood  ashes  with  from  2  to  5  Ibs.  of  nitrate  of  soda 
per  tree  will  also  make  a  good  dressing. 

A  dressing  of  stable  manure  under  the  trees,  at  the  rate 
of  from  5  to  10  cords  per  acre,  according  to  the  soil,  will 
also  give  a  good  growth.  In  all  cases  the  fertilizing- 
materials  should  be  spread  as  far  as  the  branches  extend. 

If  other  crops  are  to  be  grown  on  the  same  land  with 
the  apple  trees,  as  in  this  garden-plan,  sufficient  plant-food 
must  be  added  to  the  above  formulae  to  provide  for  the 
growth  of  all.  Either  of  the  above  formulas  will  be  suited 
for  the  other  fruits,  used  at  the  rate  of  about  f  to  1  ton  per 
acre,  but  varying  them  somewhat  according  to  natural  con- 
dition of  the  soil.  If  sufficient  growth  does  not  result, 
more  fertilizer  should  be  used,  and  if  the  growth  is  too 
great  it  should  be  reduced. 

Thinning  the  Fruit. 

The  apple,  like  most  of  our  fruit-trees,  has  the  habit  of 
producing  fruit  only  on  alternate  years,  which  is  the  result 
of  exhaustion  of  the  tree  by  its  large  crop  of  fruit,  and  it 
takes  one  year  at  least  for  it  to  regain  sufficient  vigor  to 
produce  another  crop.  To  overcome  this  condition,  the 
trees  should  be  allowed  to  bear  only  a  moderate  crop  and 
the  land  be  kept  in  a  condition  to  produce  a  moderately 
vigorous  growth  of  the  tree.  It  is  the  practice  of  many  of 
the  most  successful  fruit-growers  to  thin  their  apple  as  well 
as  other  fruit-crops  so  that  the  trees  will  not  be  weakened 
by  overbearing.  This  thinning  is  done  when  the  fruit  is 
about  one  third  grown,  removing  all  the  wormy  and  im- 


THE    HOME    FRUIT-GARDEN.  301 

perfect  fruit,  and,  in  some  cases,  one  half  or  two  thirds  of 
all  on  the  tree.  The  result  of  this  is  that  there  will  be  little 
poor  fruit  to  pick  and  sort;  what  remains  will  be  larger  and 
of  better  quality,  while  the  quantity  will  probably  be  as 
great  as  if  all  had  been  allowed  to  remain  on  the  tree,  and 
the  tree  will  not  be  exhausted,  for  it  is  the  production  of 
the  numerous  seeds  that  weakens  the  tree  more  than  the 
production  of  the  pulp  or  soft  part  of  the  fruit. 

Insects  and  Fungous  Pests. 

The  limits  of  this  chapter  will  not  warrant  a  description 
of  the  many  insects  and  fungous  pests  that  are  injurious  to 
the  apple  or  the  other  fruits,  and  the  reader  is  referred  to 
such  books  asSacmder's  "  Insects  Injurious  to  Fruits  "  and 
"  The  Spraying  of  Crops"  by  Lodeman,  etc.,  and  to  the 
directions  for  the  use  of  insecticides  and  fungicides  on 
pages  262-269.  On  these  subjects  the  bulletins  of  the  ex- 
periment-stations give  the  best  and  up-to-date  information 
that  can  be  obtained  from  any  source. 

THE    PEAR. 

Although  the  pear  is  not  so  largely  grown  or  highly 
prized  as  the  apple,  it  is  distinctly  a  home  fruit  and  is  easily 
grown.  The  trees  should  be  planted  about  20  feet  apart 
and  succeed  best  in  a  rather  heavy  soil,  but  will  do  fairly 
well  on  any  but  a  very  thin  soil.  The  tree  grows  in  a 
regular  pyramidal  form  and  begins  bearing  earlier  than  the 
apple.  The  treatment  it  requires  as  to  preparation  of  tree 
for  planting,  the  planting,  and  care  are  the  same  as  for  the 
apple  and  need  not  be  repeated  here. 

To  obtain  fruit  of  the  largest  size  and  the  best  quality, 
the  trees  should  make  a  vigorous  growth  and  the  fruit  must 
be  thinned  as  directed  for  the  apple.  The  fruit  ripens 


302  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

better,  is  of  better  color  and  quality,  if  picked  before  quite 
ripe.  The  time  for  this  work  is  indicated  by  the  wormy 
specimens  becoming  mellow,  For  home  use  it  is  best  to 
gather  the  fruit  as  it  matures,  each  time  picking  the  largest 
specimens  while  they  are  still  hard.  The  varieties  sug- 
gested as  likely  to  be  most  satisfactory  are  Clapp,  Bartlett, 
Sheldon,  Bosc,  Seckel,  and  Hovey. 


THE  PEACH. 

The  peach  can  only  be  profitably  grown  on  high,  rather 
light,  well-drained  land.  It  sometimes  succeeds  when 
planted  on  low  land  if  located  near  the  house,  where  the 
cellar  wall  gives  perfect  drainage  and  the  building  affords 
some  shelter  from  severe  cold,  but  generally  unless  on 
elevated  land  the  buds  are  destroyed  by  severe  cold  in  most 
northern  sections  during  the  winter.  While  it  may  not  be 
advisable  to  plant  the  peach  for  profit  on  low  land,  the  buds 
sometimes  escape  and  a  single  good  crop  from  a  peach-tree 
in  the  home  garden  will  well  repay  the  labor  and  care  of 
growing  and  the  long  years  of  waiting.  Peach-trees  can- 
not be  expected  to  live  very  long  in  any  section  of  the 
country;  the  average  life  of  the  trees  throughout  the 
country  is  probably  not  more  than  10  to  12  years.  If  the 
land  on  which  the  trees  are  planted  is  very  rich,  it  will  be 
well  to  plant  some  other  crop  among  the  trees  to  check  a 
too-rapid  growth,  especially  while  the  trees  are  young, 
though  when  a  crop  of  fruit  has  been  set  there  is  little  or 
no  danger  of  making  the  soil  too  rich.  A  moderately 
vigorous  growth  from  the  beginning  to  the  end  of  the 
season  gives  the  best  and  most  hardy  wood  and  the  finest 
flavored  fruit,  and  the  latter  should  always  be  ripened  on 


THE    HOME    FRUIT  GARDEX.  303 

the  tree,  if  possible,  as  it  is  much  better  flavored  than  if 
picked  before  ripe. 

The  best  distance  for  planting  is  15  feet  apart,  and  the 
varieties  that  probably  will  give  the  best  satisfaction  are 
Mountain  Rose,  Crawford  Early,  Crawford  Late,  Elberta, 
and  Oldmixon. 

THE  PLUM. 

Although  plum-trees  are  found  in  most  home  gardens, 
there  is  but  little  profit  or  satisfaction  in  their  growth 
unless  one  is  skilful  in  caring  for  them.  To  succeed  in 
their  growth,  the  trees  should  have  an  abundance  of  room 
— 15  by  15  feet  or  15  by  20  feet — and  be  planted  where 
there  shall  be  a  good  circulation  of  air  about  them.  The 
trees  must  be  sprayed  in  the  spring  before  the  buds  start, 
again  as  soon  as  the  blossoms  have  fallen,  and  also  when  the 
fruit  is  about  one  half  grown  with  the  Bordeaux  mixture 
(see  page  267).  Then  as  the  fruit  approaches  maturity  the 
simple  copper-sulphate  solution,  4  oz.  to  50  gals,  of  water, 
must  be  used  immediately  after  each  rain  until  the  fruit 
has  been  gathered.  The  black  knot  should  be  cut  off  as 
soon  as  it  appears,  and  if  large  wounds  are  made  they 
should  be  painted  with  kerosene  or  linseed-oil  paint.  If 
the  plum-curculio  is  abundant,  the  insects  should  be  caught 
by  spreading  sheets  or  a  large  frame  under  the  trees  and 
giving  the  branches  a  sudden  jar  with  a  padded  mallet. 
Those  caught  may  be  quickly  destroyed  by  brushing  them 
together  on  the  sheets  and  dropping  them  into  a  pail  of 
water  with  a  little  kerosene  on  top. 

Thorough  cultivation  or  an  abundance  of  plant-food 
must  be  given,  especially  when  the  trees  are  heavily  loaded 
with  fruit.  Thinning  must  be  practised  to  improve  the 


304  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

size  and  quality  of  the  fruit  and  save  the  trees  from  heing 
injured  by  overbearing.  The  fruit  should  be  allowed  to 
become  very  nearly  ripe  upon  the  trees  before  picking  for 
the  best  quality,  though  for  canning  purposes  they  are 
sometimes  picked  as  soon  as  fully  grown  and  well  colored. 

The  varieties  that  may  be  recommended  are  the  Bradshaw, 
Lombard,  Imperial  Gage,  Green  Gage,  German  Prune 
(Fellemberg),  and  Damson  of  the  European  plums,  and  the 
Abundance,  Burbank,  and  Satsuma  of  the  Japanese  plums. 
The  last-named  variety  is  valuable  only  for  canning. 

THE    QUINCE. 

Two  or  three  quince-trees  in  the  home  garden  will  be 
often  a  source  of  much  satisfaction.  If  there  is  a  low  place 
about  the  grounds,  yet  where  there  is  no  standing  water 
with  especially  rich  soil,  the  quince  will  succeed  under  such 
conditions.  12  by  15  feet  is  a  good  distance  for  planting, 
and  it  generally  succeeds  best  where  the  land  is  frequently 
cultivated. 

The  quince  is  usually  free  from  serious  diseases,  but  in 
very  wet  and  hot  seasons  the  cedar-apple  rust,  leaf -blight, 
and  fire-blight  sometimes  does  considerable  injury.  Spray- 
ing thoroughly  with  the  Bordeaux  mixture  before  the  leaves 
unfold  and  again  after  the  fruit  has  set  will  be  greatly 
beneficial.  The  flat-headed  apple-borer  sometimes  is  seri- 
ously injurious,  and  the  trees  must  be  examined  once  or 
twice  each  year  and  the  borers  dug  out. 

The  varieties  suggested  are  the  Orange,  Reas,  and 
Champion. 

THE    CHERRY. 

Very  few  persons  succeed  in  growing  the  cherry  on  a 
small  scale  from  the  fact  that  the  birds  get  the  largest  share 


THE    HOME    FRUIT-GARDEN.  305 

of  the  fruit,  or  that  the  fruit  as  it  approaches  maturity  is 
often  destroyed  by  rot  if  the  weather  is  warm  and  moist. 
Very  low  trees,  like  those  of  the  sour  cherries,  can  be  easily 
covered  by  a  netting,  and  the  birds  prevented  from  taking 
all  the  fruit,  and  the  use  of  the  Bordeaux  mixture  while  the 
cherries  are  small  and  the  copper  solution,  as  for  the  plum, 
while  the  fruit  is  ripening  will  largely  prevent  the  rot. 

The  black  aphis  is  the  most  destructive  insect,  causing 
the  leaves  to  curl  up  and  seriously  checking  the  growth  of 
the  young  shoots.  The  remedy  for  this  pest  is  kerosene 
emulsion  or  strong  whale-oil  soap  solution  sprayed  with 
sufficient  force  to  reach  the  insects  under  the  curled  leaves. 

The  trees  will  live  much  longer  if  planted  in  turf  land 
than  if  in  cultivated  garden  soil,  and  as  they  make  very 
regular  and  shapely  trees  are  well  suited  for  growth  upon 
the  lawn  or  by  the  roadside.  The  amount  of  fertilizers 
needed  is  what  is  just  sufficient  to  make  a  fairly  vigorous 
growth,  too  rapid  growth  often  resulting  in  the  cracking 
of  the  trunk  and  an  early  decay  of  the  tree. 

Among  the  best  varieties  may  be  mentioned  Napoleon, 
Grov.  Wood,  Black  Tartarian,  and  Windsor  of  the  sweet 
cherries,  and  Early  Richmond  and  Large  Montmorency  of 
the  sour  kinds.  The  fruit  should  be  gathered  in  dry 
weather  and  be  picked  with  the  stems  attached,  so  that  it 
shall  not  be  crushed  or  bruised;  otherwise  it  will  decay 
quickly  after  gathering. 

THE    GRAPE. 

This  is  especially  a  home  fruit,  from  the  fact  that  it 
can  be  grown  on  a  lot  of  the  smallest  size,  it  can  be  trained 
over  the  veranda  or  porch,  upon  a  trellis  along  the  side  of 
the  house  or  stable,  on  any  southern  exposure,  and  produce 


306  LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

a  large  quantity  of  the  most  delicious  and  healthful  fruit. 
It  succeeds  best  in  a  very  warm  location  and  in.  rather  poor 
soil,  but  if  planted  where  it  is  close  and  moist,  with  but 
little  air  and  sunlight,  it  is  sure  to  be  attacked  by  mildews, 
rots,  and  anthracnose.  The  conditions  of  success  in  grow- 
ing the  grape  are  a  moderately  vigorous  growth  of  vine  well 
spread  out  to  the  full  sunlight  and  air;  forcing  the  growth 
into  a  few  canes — those  bearing  the  fruit  the  present  season 
and  those  that  are  to  bear  the  fruit  the  next  season — all 
other  parts  of  the  vine  being  prevented  from  growing  by 
pinching  as  soon  as  they  have  made  one  new  leaf  after  the 
last  pinching;  and  thinning  the  fruit  so  that  the  vines  shall 
not  be  exhausted  by  overbearing.  The  fruit  is  borne  on  the 
wood  of  the  present  season's  growth,  and  the  more  vigorous 
this  growth  the  larger  will  be  the  size  of  the  bunches  and 
the  quantity  of  fruit. 

The  best  support  for  the  vines  to  run  on  is  made  of  Xo. 
14  or  16  galvanized  iron  wire,  as  the  tendrils  of  the  vines 
will  cling  to  this,  it  is  less  expensive,  and  the  vines  require 
less  tying  to  keep  them  in  place  than  if  trained  to  a  wooden 
trellis.  If  trained  against  the  building,  the  vine  should  be 
kept  six  to  ten  inches  from  the  wall,  that  the  air  may 
better  circulate  among  the  leaves  and  fruit  thus  preventing 
disease  and  the  decay  of  the  woodwork. 

In  very  wet  seasons  mildew  will  attack  the  leaves,  and 
rot  and  anthracnose  the  berries,  and  spraying  becomes  a 
necessity  to  insure  a  crop  under  these  unfavorable  condi- 
tions. The  Bordeaux  mixture  should  be  used  up  to  the 
time  the  fruit  is  one  half  grown,  after  which  the  copper 
solution  must  be  used,  making  two  applications  of  the 
former  and  three  or  four  of  the  latter,  according  to  the 
weather. 


THE   HOME    FRUIT-GARDEtf.  30? 

Among  the  best  varieties  for  sections  north  of  New  York 
City  may  be  mentioned  Campbell's  Early,  Worden,  Win- 
chell  (Green  Mountain),  and  the  Delaware.  SoLith  of  this 
latitude  many  other  choice  kinds  may  be  grown. 

THE  BLACKBERRY. 

Of  all  garden-fruits  none  is  so  easily  grown  and  yet  so 
often  a  failure  as  the  blackberry.  The  conditions  of  suc- 
cess are  a  good  new  soil,  if  not  a  deep  sandy  loam,  then  a 
deep  well-underdrained  clay  loam.  Plant  in  the  fall  or 
very  early  in  the  spring  in  rows  from  6  to  8  feet  apart  or 
in  hills  4  by  G  feet,  allowing  a  space  of  from  10  inches  to 
1  square  foot  for  each  cane,  and  all  suckers  not  desired 
for  the  next  season's  fruiting  must  be  treated  as  weeds.  It 
is  best  to  allow  the  suckers  not  wanted  to  grow  6  inches  to 
1  foot,  and  then  pull  them  up  rather  than  to  hoe  or  cut 
them  off.  The  critical  time  of  growth  is  when  the  fruit 
is  ripening,  a  large  amount  of  moisture  being  needed  to 
produce  the  best  fruit,  and  to  secure  this  the  surface-soil 
should  be  stirred  once  or  twice  each  week  or  a  mulch  of 
hay,  straw,  or  other  material  2  or  3  inches  thick  be  spread 
over  the  surface.  At  the  end  of  the  fruiting  season  the  old 
canes  should  be  cut  out  and  the  small  weak  new  canes  be 
cut  or  pulled,  so  that  the  whole  growth  may  be  forced  into 
the  canes  for  the.  next  season's  growth.  It  is  the  practice 
of  most  growers  to  pinch  the  ends  of  the  new  canes  when 
they  are  3  to  4  feet  high,  which  causes  them  to  grow  more 
stocky  and  require  less  support.  In  the  more  northern  sec- 
tions the  canes  are  bent  over  and  covered  lightly  with  soil 
to  prevent  winter-killing.  This  is  a  simple  matter,  and  the 
canes  need  not  be  broken  if  the  soil  is  loosened  a  little  on 


308  LANDSCAPE   GABDEKIKC. 

the  south  side  and  they  are  bent  over  with  a  strong  pulling 
motion.  They  should  be  bent  over  toward  the  south,  that 
the  sun  during  the  winter  may  not  strike  them  with  direct 
rays,  and  should  be  uncovered  and  placed  upright  as  soon 
as  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground  in  the  spring,  as  they  start 
earlier  when  lying  on  the  ground  than  if  standing  upright 
and  are  thus  less  liable  to  be  injured  by  late  frosts. 

To  keep  the  canes  upright  when  loaded  with  fruit,  they 
may  be  tied  to  stakes  or  be  supported  by  tying  the  canes  in 
from  opposite  sides,  one  cane  thus  supporting  the  other. 
No.  14  or  16  wires  stretched  on  each  side  of  the  rows  from 
12  to  15  inches  apart  serve  as  good  supports.  When  grown 
on  a  strong  soil,  the  canes  if  made  to  branch  by  pinching 
will  be  large  enough  to  stand  up  without  support. 

The  varieties  that  succeed  at  the  north  are  the  Agawam, 
Snyder,  and  Taylors,  while  further  south  the  Early  Har- 
vest, Wilson,  and  Erie  may  prove  more  satisfactory. 

Under  good  cultivation  the  blackberry  is  very  little 
troubled  by  insect  or  fungous  pests,  but  it  will  generally  br. 
best  to  spray  the  bushes  before  they  start  into  growth  and 
again  just  before  the  blossoms  open  with  the  Bordeaux 
mixture  for  the  leaf -blight,  rust,  and  anthracnose,  which  are 
sometimes  destructive  in  very  moist  and  warm  weather, 
especially  if  the  growth  is  rather  weak. 

THE   RASPBERRY. 

The  raspberry  is  successfully  grown  under  about  the  same 
conditions  as  the  blackberry,  but  perhaps  needs  a  somewhat 
richer  soil,  and  as  the  canes  make  a  shorter  growth  may  be 
planted  a  little  closer,  i.e.,  in  rows  5  to  6  feet  apart  or  in 
hills  3  by  6  feet.  The  fruit  of  the  red  raspberry  should  be 


THE   HOME   FRUIT-GARDEN.  309 

gathered  every  day,  for  if  allowed  to  remain  long  on  the 
bashes  after  ripening  it  decays  quickly  in  moist  weather. 
The  pruning,  training,  and  care  are  practically  the  same  as 
for  the  blackberry,  and  clean  cultivation  or  mulching 
rather  more  of  a  necessity. 

The  varieties  that  will  probably  give  the  best  results  are 
the  Cuthbert,  London,  King  and  Miller. 

THE    CURRANT    AXD    GOOSEBERRY. 

There  is  scarcely  a  home  garden  to  be  found  in  which  an 
attempt  is  not  made  to  grow  the  currant,  but  in  most  cases 
the  bushes  are  planted  in  some  out-of-the-way  place  where 
they  suffer  from  neglect,  and  the  fruit,  while  of  some  value 
for  making  jelly,  is  not  desirable  for  table  use  because  of 
its  small  size  and  seedy  character.  There  is  no  fruit  that 
can  be  improved  so  much  in  size  and  quality  by  good  cul- 
tivation as  the  currant. 

Vigorous  young  plants  one  or  two  years  old  should  be 
planted  in  rich,  rather  moist  soil  in  hills  4  by  6  feet  apart. 
Thorough  and  clean  cultivation  must  be  given  and  an 
annual  dressing  of  two  or  three  shovelfuls  of  good  stable 
manure  be  put  about  the  bushes  in  the  fall  or  an  equal  value 
of  some  good  fruit-fertilizer  be  applied  in  the  spring. 

The  pruning  needed  consists  in  cutting  out  the  old  wood, 
i.e.,  that  more  than  three  or  four  years  old,  in  such  a  way 
as  to  give  the  bushes  an  upright  form  and  produce  young 
and  vigorous  wood,  upon  which  only  large  and  fine  fruit 
can  be  grown.  During  the  time  of  ripening  much  fruit 
will  be  saved  from  being  spattered  with  soil  if  a  mulch  of 
2  or  3  inches  is  put  around  under  the  bushes. 

For  home  use  the  best  varieties  are  the  Versaillaise, 
Pomona,  and  White  Imperial. 


310  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING. 

The  currant-worm  is  the  only  insect  seriously  injurious 
to  this  fruit  and  unless  it  is  destroyed  will  almost  certainly 
ruin  the  crop.  It  comes  on  with  the  early  unfolding  of  the 
leaves,  works  rapidly,  and  requires  only  a  few  days  to  com- 
pletely denude  the  bushes  of  foliage.  Close  watch  must  be 
kept,  and  at  the  first  appearance  of  this  pest  powdered 
hellebore  must  be  applied  while  the  leaves  are  wet  or  be 
put  on  in  water,  a  large  tablespoonful  to  a  pail  of  water, 
with  the  watering-can  or  spraying-pump.  A  second  brood 
of  these  insects  appears  in  about  two  weeks  from  the  first, 
when  a  second  application  of  hellebore  is  necessary. 

Spraying  with  the  Bordeaux  mixture  before  the  leaves 
open,  just  before  the  blossoms  open,  and  again  after  the 
fruit  has  been  picked  will  prevent  the  leaf -blight  that  often 
seriously  weakens  the  bushes. 

The  gooseberry  requires  the  same  treatment  as  the  currant, 
but  must  be  planted  in  a  rather  more  airy  place  to  prevent 
the  mildew  that  often  ruins  the  fruit.  Spraying  with  the 
Bordeaux  mixture  will  sometimes  prevent  this  disease.^  If 
the  currants  and  gooseberries  are  planted  together,  the  first 
brood  of  the  currant-worms  will  be  found  largely  on  the 
latter,  while  the  second  will  be  on  the  former  only. 


THE    STRAWBERRY. 

This  is  pre-eminently  a  home  fruit,  because  it  is  so  easily 
grown,  comes  into  bearing  at  one  year  or  less  from  the  time 
of  planting,  and  produces  a  large  quantity  of  fruit  that  is 
much  superior  to  that  which  may  be  found  in  the  markets. 
All  that  is  required  for  success  is  a  deep,  rich,  new  soil, 
thorough  cultivation,  and  a  good  supply  of  moisture  at  the 
time  of  ripening.  A  yield  of  one  bushel  of  fruit  to  the 


THE   HOME   FRUIT-GARDEN.  311 

square  rod  is  of  very  common  occurrence,  while  three  or 
four  bushels  are  sometimes  produced  under  the  most  favor- 
able conditions.  The  land  should  be  made  rich  by  plowing 
or  spading  under  manure  at  the  rate  of  from  10  to  15  cords 
per  acre,  and  be  made  fine  and  mellow  before  planting. 
To  this  amount  of  manure  should  be  added,  at  the  rate  of 
from  i  to  TF  ton  per  acre,  any  good  fruit-fertilizer,  and  after 
being  thoroughly  worked  in  to  the  surface  soil  the  plants  be 
set  as  early  in  the  spring  as  the  land  will  work  up  fine  and 
mellow. 

The  plants — only  young  plants  with  white  roots  should 
be  used — may  be  set  in  rows  from  3  to  5  feet  apart  and 
from  1  to  3  feet  in  the  rows,  according  to  the  system  of 
growing  practised.  The  best  berries  perhaps,  and  a  large 
quantity  of  them,  will  be  produced  if  the  plants  are  set  2 
feet  by  3  and  three  rows  of  runners  be  rooted,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  168,  where  x  illustrates  the  old  plants  and  a  the 


FIG.  168. 

new  plants.  After  the  bed  or  row  has  thus  been  estab- 
lished all  other  runners  must  be  pulled  or  cut  off  as  soon  as 
started,  and  the  land  be  kept  clean  cultivated  up  to  the 
time  the  ground  freezes  in  the  fall. 

During  the  winter  the  bed  should  be  covered  with  a  light 
mulch  of  hay,  straw,  or  other  m&teria.]  free  from  weed-seeds 
to  prevent  the  alternation  of  freezing  and  thawing  when 
the  ground  is  not  covered  with  snow.  In  the  spring  after 
growth  begins  this  covering  should  be  drawn  from  the 
crowns  of  the  plants  into  the  space  between  the  rows,  where 


312  LANDSCAPE   GARDENIKG. 

it  will  serve  as  a  mulch  and  protect  the  fruit  from  becom- 
ing covered  with  dirt  during  heavy  rains. 

All  weeds  that  appear  in  the  spring  must  be  pulled  out 
by  hand,  as  stirring  the  soil  with  the  hoe  at  this  time  is  not 
advisable. 

The  varieties  are  so  numerous  and  vary  so  much  under 
different  kinds  of  soil  and  location  that  no  list  of  varieties 
of  much  value  can  be  given  that  will  be  successful  in  all 
locations,  and  the  reader  should  consult  some  successful 
grower  in  his  vicinity  and  plant  the  varieties  found  most 
valuable.  The  varieties  suggested  that  may  be  generally 
satisfactory  are  the  Clyde,  Brandy  wine,  Glen  Mary,  and 
the  Marshall  under  high  culture. 

The  insects  or  fungous  growths  that  are  seriously  in- 
jurious to  the  strawberry  may  be  largely  overcome  by 
thorough  and  clean  cultivation. 


INDEX. 


A 

PAGE 

Abele 157 

Actinidia,  Kokwa 218 

Advantages  of  home  garden 289 

mixed  hedges 84 

Alternantliera 242 

Alyssum  241 

Amaranthus. . .  t , , 112 

Ammoniacal  carb.  of  copper 268 

Amount  of  land  required 14 

Anemone  Japonica  226 

Andromeda 213 

Aphides 279 

A  plan  of  ornamentation 2 

Apple-borers 275,  276 

Apple,  Chinese  double-flowering 155 

,  best  varieties 299 

,  fertilizers  for , 299 

,  insects  and  fungi  injurious  to 301 

,  Parknian's  double-flowering 155 

,  thinning  the  fruit 300 

Apple-trees  for  shade £ , » 289 

Aralia,  Hercules'-club 187 

,  Japanese 188 

Architecture  of  the  house 18 

Aquatic  plants 249 

border-plants 256 

Arrangement  of  rooms  24 

trees  and  shrubs 61 

315 


316  INDEX. 

PAGE 

Arrangement  of  trees  for  shelter 62 

screens 62 

fruit-garden 291 

Arbor- vitae,  American 183 

,  globe  183 

,  golden 184 

,  pyramidal 183 

,  Siberian 183 

Arrow-head  plant 258 

Artificial  system  of  decoration 4 

Ash,  American 139 

,  aucuba-leaved 153 

,  European 153 

,  cut-leaved 172 

Asters,  native 227 

Astilbe,  Japanese 228 

Avenue-trees 135 

,  list  of 136 

Average  yield  of  fruits 290 

Avoid  too  close  planting  of  trees 65 

hedges 81 

Azalea,  pink  swamp ....   186 

,  flame  colored 186 

,  Ghent 187 

.Japanese 187 

,  Vaseyii 187 

B 

Balsams 242 

Banana,  Abyssinian  or  red-stemmed 246 

Bank  walls,  removal 102,  103 

Barberry,  common 188,  221 

,  purple-leaved 188,  221 

,  dwarf  Thunberg's 189 

Beech,  American 151 

,  European 152 

,  fern-leaved 175 

,  copper-leaved 174 

,  Rivers'  purple 175 

,  weeping 168 

Bedding-plants 242 


INDEX.  317 

PAGE 

Bedding-roses 207 

Birch,  canoe 146 

,  cherry  or  sweet. 147 

,  European  white 147 

cut-leaved  weeping 165 

,  gray 147 

,   purple-leaved 173 

,  Young's  weeping 167 

Black  walnut , , 141 

Bladder-fern 250 

Blight,  catalpa-leaf 287 

,  cherry  leaf 287 

,  inaple-leaf 287 

,  plum-leaf 287 

,  rose-leaf 287 

,  remedy  for 287 

Bloodroot 234 

Blue-gurn  tree 247 

Blue  spruce,  Colorado , 179 

Bordering  walks  with  turf 38 

Bordeaux  mixture. . 267 

Borers,  apple 275,  276 

,  maple 272 

,  peach 276 

Box-elder  156 

Boxwood 211 

Broken-stone  road 112 

Buildings,  location  of 6,  15 

,  relocating  and  improving  old 104 

Buckthorn 221 

Bulletins  relating  to  insecticides  and  fungicides 262,  283 

Bulrush 258 

Burweed 258 

Bur-marigold 258 

C 

Cacti 248 

Caladium 245 

Calendula 242 

Calliopsis 242 

Culycanthug ..,.....,.,, , ..,,.., ,  . , , , 19$ 


318  INDEX. 

PAGE 

Canary-bird  flower 242 

Candytuft 242 

Canker-worm 274,  275 

Canna coco '^43,  244 

Camperdown  elm „ 171 

Carnation >  . .  .  230 

Careful  study  of  art  of  landscape  gardening .....    .       3 

Care  of  roads 115,  117 

cemeteries 130,  134 

Castor-bean 244 

Cat-o'-nine-tail .    ..     258 

Catal  pa-blight 287 

Catalpa 148 

Cedar,  red 179 

,  prostrate  red 179 

Cellar,  drainage  of 21 

Cemeteries,  care  of 130*,  134 

Centaurea,  dusty-miller 242 

Character  of  land 18 

Characteristics  of  trees 44 

Cherry,  flowering 149 

,  Japanese  weeping 167 

,  care  and  cultivation  of 304 

Cherry-blight 287 

Cherry-mildew 288 

Chestnut,  American 140,  147 

,  horse 146 

China- wood 153 

Chinese  wistaria 217 

cork-tree 157 

Cinnamon  ferns 258 

Christmas  ferns ; 258 

Clematis,  Japanese  sweet-scented 216 

,  purple 215 

,  white 16 

,  Virginiana 214 

Climbers,  hardy , 213,  219 

Climbing  roses 207 

hardy  shrubs. , 86 

tender  plants 242 

Clipping  lawns 40 


INDEX.  319 

PACK 

Closet-room,  abundance  of 25 

Close  planting,  avoid 65 

Cobea-vine 242 

Coffee-tree,  Kentucky 153 

Coleus 242 

Colorado  blue  spruce 179 

Colored  foliage,  trees  with 172 

Columbine,  garden 227 

,  yellow  227 

,  blue 227 

Conditions  for  a  good  road Ill 

Construction  of  roads 112,  115 

farm-roads 109 

walks  and  drives 94,  96 

Cost  of  house 20 

Covering  wounds  on  injured  trees 49 

bank  walls 102 

Convenience  in  location  of  house 7 

Copper  sulphate 266 

solution 268 

Cork-tree,  Chinese 157 

Cranberry-tree , 205 

Crocus 242 

Cucumber-tree 156 

Cultivation  of  fruit-trees  294 

,  too  much  land , 107 

Currant,  care  and  cultivation 309 

Curves  of  walks  and  drives 92 

Cut-leaved  ash 167 

beech 167 

birch 165 

green  Japanese  maple 172 

oak 172 

purple  Japanese  maple 171 

paeouia 225 

silver  maple 164 

sumac 201 

variegafed  Japanese  maple 1 72 

Cypress,  Japanese  pea- fruited 182 

thread-like 183 

Cypress-vine 242 


320  INDEX. 


PAGE 

Daffodil 242 

Dahlia 242 

Daisy,  English 228 

Day-blooming  water-lilies 253 

Daphne 191 

Deciduous  trees,  improving 98 

Decoration,  home  and  landscape-gardening 1 

Decorating  farm-homes , 100 

school-yards 126-129 

Description  of  trees 1 35 

Digging  holes  for  planting  trees  295 

trees  for  planting , 55 

Deutzia,  double-flowered 191 

,  slender 192 

Direction  of  walks  and  drives   91 

Distance  for  planting  trees  and  shrubs 51 

Dogwood,  flowering 1 50 

red    150 

,  red 190 

,  weeping 167 

Drainage  of  cellar 21 

surface-  and  sub-soil 22 

Dutch  bulbs 234 

E 

Eld er 201 

Elevation  of  land  for  home.  .  .  , 8 

house 17 

Elm,  American   , 136 

,  Camperdovvn 171 

,  English 163 

.Scotch 163 

,  slippery 137 

Emulsion,  kerosene ,  , 264 

Elm-beetle 269 

Elm-scale  271 

English  violet 236 

Escholtzia 242 

Eulalia,  Japan*,  se 269 


INDEX.  321 

PAGE 

Evergreen  trees 177 

,  improving  and  pruning 99,  177 

,  list  of 178 

shrubs 209 

,  list  of 211 

Exochorda 194 

Exposure  of  house 17 

Extent  of  walks  and  drives 105 

F 

Farm-homes,  decoration  of 106 

Fences  and  walls,  removal  of 103 

Fertilizers  for  lawn , 41 

apples 299 

trees  and  shrubs 61 

home  fruit-garden 299 

strawberries , . .  311 

Ferns,  hardy 258 

,  maidenhair 258 

,  cinnamon 258 

.Christmas 258 

,  sword 258 

.bladder 259 

,  ostrich 259 

,  rattlesnake 259 

,  rock 259 

,  wood-rock ...  259 

Filbert,  purple 190 

Fir,  Nordmann's 1 79 

Flowering  plants,  tender 87 

Feverfew,  golden 242 

,  hardy 234 

Flag,  variegated 256 

Fraxinella 230 

Fruit-garden,  home  289 

,  plan  of 291 

,  arrangement  of 291 

,  location  of 290 

,  fungous  pests  injurious  to. 301 

,  size  of 290 

,  insect  pests  injurious  to 301 


322  INDEX. 

PAGE 

Fruit-trees  along  roadways 120 

Forms  of  hedges „ 83 

Fungi  and  fungus-destroyers 261,  265 

,  nature  of,  and  condition  of  growth 266 

Fungicides 266,  267,  268 

Fungi  injurious  to  ornamentals , 285 

G 

Geraniums 242 

German  ivies , 242 

iris , 233 

Gladiolus , 240 

Globe  arbor-vitae 194 

Golden-bell 195 

,  Fortune's 196 

,  weeping 196 

Golden-glow 232 

Golden  arbor-vitae 184 

oak  176 

poplar , 174 

Grading  about  buildings „ , , 33,  35 

,  preliminary 28 

Grade,  how  to  obtain 29 

Grouping  or  arrangement  of  trees 63 

trees  for  ornamentation 64 

,  nature  as  a  guide 65 

Grass  for  lawn 36,  101 

Grass-seed,  quantity  of 36,  101 

Grape,  importance  of „ 305 

,  methods  of  cultivation,  pruning,  etc 306 

,  varieties  of 307 

H 

Hardy  climbers 86 

herbaceous  plants 223 

,  transplanting. 100 

,  list  of 223 

ferns , 258 

,  list  of 258 

Harris's  lily 239 


INDEX.  323 

PAGE 

Hawthorn , 154 

Hawthorn-mildew 288 

Healthfulness  of  home  location 7 

Heating  the  house 24 

Hedges 80 

,  forms  of 83 

of  flowering  shrubs 221 

,  renewing 98 

,  plants,  list  of 219 

Heliotrope 242 

Hellebore...    264 

Hemlock-spruce 219 

Hickory,  white 141 

Holly,  American 211 

Hollyhock 226 

Hollyhock-rust 286 

Home,  decoration  of  farm 106 

,  decoration  of 5 

,  location  of  6 

House,  location  of 15 

,  architecture  of 15 

,  heating  of  the 24 

elevation  of 17 

exposure  of 17 

Honey-locust 153 

Honeysuckle,  Tartarian 197 

,  Japanese 217 

Hop-tree 159 

Horse-chestnut,  common . 146 

,  red-flowered 146 

Hercules'  club 87' 

Hyacinth,  garden 239 

,  water 255 

Hydrangea,  hardy 196 

,  tender 248 

I 

Introduction V-VII 

Implements  for  pruning 84 

Importance  of  walks  and  drives 89 

evergreen  trees 177 


324  INDEX. 

PAGE 

Importance  of  hardy  climbers 86 

slirubs 185 

Improperly  located  buildings 104 

walks  and  drives 105 

Improving  old  homes , . . . .  97 

deciduous  trees 45 

Improvement  of  roads Ill 

roadsides 118 

evergreen  trees 98 

Increase  in  value  from  ornamentation 14 

Indian  currant 204 

Injury  caused  by  insects 261,  285 

fungi 285 

Insects,  common  injurious 269 

Insecticide 262 

,  bulletins  relating  to 285,  301 

Iris,  Japanese 233 

,  German 232 

J 

Japanese  anemone 226 

aralia 188 

azalea 187 

cypress,  pea-fruited 182 

,  thread-like 183 

eulalia  (plume-grass) 260 

hydrangia 196 

iris 233 

lilies 238 

maples 143,  146,  173 

quince 192,  219 

roses 207,  220 

snowball 206 

sumac 201 

tree-lilac 204 

clematis,  sweet-scented 216 

woodbine 214 

Jonquils 239 

Juniper  (red  cedar) 179 

,  prostrate 179 


INDEX.  325 


K 

PAGE 

Keeping  up  aftergrowth  of  trees,  etc 61 

Kentucky  coffee-tree 153 

Kerosene  emulsion 264 

Kilmarnock  willow 170 

Kind  of  soil  for  home  grounds 9 

Knowledge  of  materials  for  ornamentation 2 

L 

Laburnum 151 

Land,  strongly  marked  features  of 10 

,  amount  needed  for  home  ornamentation 14 

,  elevation  and  slope  of 8 

Landscape  gardening  and  home  ornamentation 1 

,  a  careful  study  of  the  art  needed 3 

Laurel,  great 212 

,  mountain 211 

Lawn,  clipping  the 40 

,  dressing  and  renewing 40 

2  fertilizers  for 41 

.  grading  about  building 34,  35 

,  time  for  seeding 37 

,  grass  and  fertilizer  on  old 101 

,  made  of  turf 39 

,  manuring  the  laud  for , 33 

,  making  surface  of 83 

,  mowers  for  cutting  the 40 

,  quantity  of  grass-seed  for 37 

,  reseeding  the 41 

,  sowing  grass-seed  on 38 

,  settling  the  soil 35 

,  renovating  old , 100 

,  importance  of  the 32 

Lawn-grasses.    36 

Laws  relating  to  ornamental  trees 119 

Leaf-blight  of  catalpa 287 

cherry 287 

maple 287 

plum 287 

sycamore 287 


326  INDEX. 

PAGE 

Leaf-spot  of  the  rose 287 

Lilac,  common 204 

,  downy , 205 

,  Japanese 204 

,  Josikea 205 

,  Persian 204 

Lilac-mildew 288 

Lilies 237 

Lily,  Batemann's 239 

garden  Easter 239 

,  golden-banded , 238 

,  Harris's ... 239 

,  lance-leaved 239 

,  long-flowered , 239 

,  Turk's  cap 239 

,  plaintain 231 

,  hardy  water 252 

,  tender  water, 252 

Lily-of-the-valley 230 

Linden,  American 158 

,  European 158 

,  white-leaved 158 

Linden-rust 286 

List  of  aquatic  plants 250 

avenue-trees 136 

colored-leaved  trees 172 

cut-leaved  trees 171 

evergreen  trees , 177 

shrubs , 209 

ornamental  grasses 259 

hardy  climbers 213 

herbaceous  plants 223 

ferns 258 

hedge-plants 219 

deciduous  shrubs 189 

round-headed  trees 142 

subtropical  plants 242 

tender  bedding- plants 242 

climbers 242 

weeping  trees 164 

Location  of  home,  convenience  of „ 7 


INDEX.  327 

PAGE 

Location  of  home,  liealtbfulness 7 

,  near  schools,  etc 8 

,  on  main  or  side  street 8 

buildings 15,  16 

and  extent  of  walks  and  drives 90 

of  fruit-garden 290 

Locust,  honey 153 

,  yellow ..,__ . 157 

Lotus,  species .^^^^TL IB R*?2^*  •  •  •  251 

f\&'    OF  THE  '     IV 

M    ( UNIVERS    IT  1 

V*£f  CALIFO^^ 
Magnolia,  cucumber /.rr^r .  .1  •  r-rTTT 156 

,  showy 156 

,  Soulange's 156 

,  swamp 1 56 

,  umbrella 155 

Making  surface  of  lawn 33 

Maidenhair  fern . .  .  . , 258 

Manuring  the  land  for  lawn 33 

strawberries 311 

Maple,  English 143 

,  Japanese 144,  145,  146,  171 

cut-leaved  purple  171 

green 172 

variegated 172 

golden 1 76 

purple-leaved 173 

,  Norway 1 43 

,red 143 

,  Reitenbach's 144,  173 

,  Schwerdler's ". 144,  173 

,  silver 138,  144 

,  sycamore  144,  173 

,  Tartarian 144 

,  Wier's  cut-leaved 165 

Maple-borer 273,  273 

Maple-scale 283,  284 

Marigold , 242 

Macadam  or  broken-stone  road 112 

Mignonette 242 


328  INDEX. 

PAGE 

Mildew 287 

of  cherry 287 

hawthorn 287 

lilac 287 

plum 287 

rose 287 

willow 287 

,  remedies  for 287 

Mist-plant 231 

Mock-orange,  fragrant 198 

,  golden 1 98 

,  large-flowered 199 

Mountain  ash,  American ....   1 58 

,  European 159 

,  oak-leaved 159 

laurel 211 

rhododendron 212 

Mulberry 156 

,  weeping 169 

N 

Narcissus 239 

Nasturtium. . .  , 242 

Nature  as  a  guide  in  planting 65 

Natural  vs.  artificial  systems 4 

system  explained 4 

Nelumbium,  East  Indian 251 

,  white  Japanese 252 

,  striped       "       252 

,  Egyptian   252 

,  native 252 

Night-blooming  water-lilies 254 

Nordmanns' fir 179 

Norway  maple 143 

spruce 178 

Nozzles  for  spraying-pumps 269 

O 

Oak,  chestnut 163 

,  English 161 


329 


PAGE 

Oak,  English,  cut-leaved  ............  ...  .....  .-,.  ,.„.,,  ........  172 

,  fern-leaved  ....................  ,  ........  ,  .....  163 

,  'golden-  leaved.  .  ................................   176 

,  purple  leaved  .............................  163,175 

,  pyramidal  ..............  ....................  ...   163 

,  variegated  .....................................   1  63 

,  pin  .......................  .  ....................  .  .......   161 

,  red  .................  .  ....................  .........  ,....139 

,  scarlet  .................................  .-.-.  ........   140,  161 

,  swamp  white  ........................  .  .  .....  ...........   161 

,  white   ...............................................   160 

Old  trees,  improving.  .........  ......  .  .......................     4~> 

Ostrich-fern  _____  ........  _____  ..........................  253,  2~>9 

Oyster  shell  scale  ....  ........  .  ......................  .  .......   280 

P 

Paeony,  Chinese  ............................................  2?4 

,  cut-leaved   ...................    .....................   225 

,  tree  .........  ,  ................................  ____   225 

Pampas-grass  ............................................  260 

Pansy  ................................    .  ...................   235 

Papyrus  .........  ..................   ....................  235 

Paris  green  ...............   .........................  .  .......  262 

used  dry   ........................................  263 

with  Bordeaux  mixture  ......................   2<54 

plaster,  flour,  etc  ......................   263 

water  ...............................  .   263 

Parkman's  flowering  apple  ----  ...............................    155 

Parks  and  public  squares  ..........  ......    ................  ,  .  .   124 

Parrot's-  feather  ............................................   257 

Pea,  sweet  .................................................    241 

Peach  borer  ...............  .  .........  ........................   276 

Peach,  flowering  ....    ..........  ..........................      155 

,  land  best  suited  for  growth  of  .........................  302 

,  best  varieties  ........  ;  .    .  .  *  .....  .  ...................  303 

Pear,  land  best  suited  for  ....................................  301 

,  best  varieties  ......  ....................................   302 

Pepper-bush,  sweet  .....................................   190 

Persian  lilac  ..........  .  .................................  204 

insect-powder  .....................  •.  .......  „  ........   265 


330  INDEX. 

PAGE 

Petunia 24*3 

Phlox,  garden 224 

(moss-pink) 225 

Pickerel-weed 258 

Pin  oak 101 

Pine,  Austrian 180 

,  long-leaved 181 

,  white  or  Weymouth a „ 180 

Pink,  carnation 231 

,  moss 225 

Plan  of  arranging  ornamental  trees  44 

fruit-garden 289 

house 19 

strawberry-bed 311 

Plane-tree 153 

Planting  fruit-trees  for  ornament 108 

in  home  garden 297 

ornamental  trees  58,  59 

unprofitable  land  with  ornamental  and  forest  trees.  .  .  .  107 

Plum,  best  varieties 304 

,  cultivation  of  the 303 

,  flowering 155 

leaf-blight 287 

,  purple-leaved 174 

Plum-mildew ,.288 

Plumbing 26 

Plume-grass,  Japanese  common 260 

zebrina 260 

gracillema 260 

variegated 260 

Poplar,  black 154 

,  Bol  ley's 154 

,  golden 174 

,  silver 154 

,  weeping 167 

Poplar-rust ... 286 

Poppy,  oriental 233 

,  plume 229 

,  water 256 

Porcupine-plant 256 

Portulacca..                                                                                             .  242 


INDEX.  331 

PAGE 

Preparation  of  land  for  ornamental  trees ,  54 

shrubs 76 

fruits 295 

Preserve  choice  native  trees  and  shrubs 119 

Privet 220 

Prostrate  juniper 179 

Pruning  hedges 83 

,  time  for 84 

,  implements  for 84 

trees  for  transplanting 56,  57 

old  trees 48 

shrubs 79 

roses 206 

Pumps  for  the  use  of  insecticides  and  fungicides 268 

Purple  clematis 215 

Purple-leaved  beech 174 

birch 173 

barberry 188 

maples 144,  146 

filbert 191 

oak 175 

Pyramidal  arbor-vitae 183 

Pyrethrum 234 

Pyrethrum-powder. 334,  265 

Q 

Quince,  common 304 

,  Japanese  191 

,  best  varieties 304 

E 

Easpberry,  cultivation  of 308 

,  best  varieties 309 

Eattlesnake-f era 259 

Kedbud 149 

Red  cedar 179 

dogwood 190 

oak 139 

spider 279 

Red-twigged  willow 158 


332  INDEX. 

PAGE 

Red-fruited  elder.. 201 

Reitenbach's  maple 144 

Removal  of  fences  and  walls 103 

Renewing  old  shrubs  and  hedges 98 

Renovating  old  cemeteries , 133,  134 

Renewal  of  old  evergreens 99 

Reseeding  lawns '. 41 

Retinospora  picifera 182 

filifera 183 

Ribbon-grass 2GO 

Rivers'  purple  beech 1 74 

Roads,  conditions  necessary  for  good ........  Ill 

,  construction. 110 

of  farm 109 

,  broken-stone  or  Macadam 112 

,  repairing 115-117 

,  surface  of 113,  114 

and  roadside  improvements.  .  , Ill 

,  width  of 115 

Roadsides,  improvement  of 118 

,  care  of  trees  along 119 

as  a  dumping-place 118 

,  fruit  along 108 

,  laws  relative  to  trees  along 119 

,  ornamental  shrubs  along 121,  122 

,  removal  of  fences  along 123 

Rocks  and  ledges  in  ornamental  grounds 10 

Rocky  Mountain  columbine 227 

Roses 206 

,  bedding 207 

,  climbing 207 

,  moss. . , 207 

,  Japanese 207.  220 

,  yellow 209 

,  pruning 206 

,  varieties 207 

,  winter  protection 207 

Rose-mildew 288 

Rose-rust. 287 

Rose-chafer 277 

Rose-slug 278 


INDEX.  333 

PAGE 

Rose-leaf  hopper 279 

Rose-flowered  water-lilies 252 

Rose,  insects  injurious  to  the 278 

Rose  of  Sharon 196 

Round-headed  trees,  list  of 142,  143 

Rudbechia 232 

Rules  for  grouping  trees 65 

Rust,  hollyhock 286 

,  linden 286 

,  poplar 286 

,  rose 286 

,  remedy  for 287 

S 

Salvia,  scarlet 242 

Salvinia 256 

Scale  insect,  oyster-shell 280 

,  San  Jose 281 

Scarlet  oak 164 

School-yards,  decoration  of 126-130 

Sch werdler's  maple 144 

Scope  of  home  ornamentation 2 

Scotch  elm 163 

Screens,  trees  for , 60 

Scouring-rush 258 

Seeding  lawn  before  planting  trees,  etc 36 

,  time  for 37 

Seed,  grass 36 

,  quantity  per  acre 37 

,  sowing  grass 38 

Selection  of  varieties  of  trees,  etc 50 

Settling  the  soil 36 

Shadbush  146 

Shed-room  in  outbuildings 25 

Shelf-room  in  house 25 

Shrubs,  ornamental 185 

,  planting  and  pruning 76,  79 

,  evergreen 209 

,  preparing  land  for r 76 

,  two  methods  of  grouping 77 

,  list  of  varieties * 185,  186 


334  INDEX. 

PAGE 

Shrubs,  renovating  old 98 

Siberian  arbor- vita? 183,  219 

Silvery  actinidia 218 

Silver-thorn 194 

Silver-bell 1 96 

Silver  maple 138,  144 

poplar .   154 

Size  of  fruit-garden 290 

Slender  deutzia 192 

Slippery-elm   137 

Slope  of  land  for  fruit-garden 292 

Snowberry 203 

Snowball,  common 205 

,  Japanese 206 

Snapdragon 242 

Soil  for  fruit-garden 291 

aquatics 250 

ornamentals 9 

Spider,  red 279 

Spiraea,  Anthony  Waterer ,, 203 

,  bridal- wreath 202 

,  Bumald's 203 

,  golden 201 

,  Japanese ....  228 

,  lobed 203 

,  Thunbergs 203 

,  Van  Houtt's 203 

Spot,  rose-leaf 287 

Spruce,  Colorado  blue , 178 

,  Norway 178 

,  white 178 

,  weeping 178 

Spraying-pumps 268 

St-John's-wort,  shrubby 197 

Star  cucumber 242 

Striped  nelumbium 252 

Stone  walls,  removing 110,  1 23 

Strawberry 310 

,  cultivation  and  care  of 311 

Strawberry-tree 194 

Strawberry-bed,  plan  of 311 


INDEX.  335 

PAGE 

Street-  and  avenue-trees , 136 

,  list  of 136 

Strongly  marked  features,  preserve 10 

Subtropical  plants 243 

Sugar-maple 137 

Sulphate  of  copper 266 

solution 268 

Sumac,  cut-leaved 201 

,  Japanese 201 

Sunflower,  hardy 232 

Sunlight  in  all  rooms 25 

Surface  of  roads  113,  1 14 

Surface-  and  sub-drainage 22 

Swamp  azalea 186 

Sweet  birch 147 

gum loo 

pea 241 

pepper-bush 189 

Sword-fern 2o8 

Systems  of  landscape  gardening,  artificial 4 

,  natural 4 

Sycamore  or  plane-tree 153 

leaf-blight  287 

Sycamore-maple 1 44 

Syringa 198,  204 

T 

Tartarian  maple 144 

Tender  bedding-plants 241 

climbing  plants 242 

foliage  and  flowering  plants 87,  88 

water-lilies 252 

Thurlow's  weeping  willow : .......    170 

Transplanting  trees  and  shrubs ,  56,  57 

hardy  herbaceous  plants 19 

Trees,  arrangement  or  grouping  of , Gl 

,  avenue  or  street 186 

,  nature  as  a  guide 65 

for  screens 64 

for  shelter (>2 

,  avoid  too  close  planting 65 

,  classification  of  varieties 135 


336  INDEX. 

PAGE 

Trees,  characteristics  of 44 

,  cranberry 205 

,  covering  wounds  on 49 

,  description  of 1 35 

,  digging  for  planting 55 

,  distance  for  planting  51 

,  deciduous,  improving , 98 

,  evergreen 177 

,  transplanting  and  pruning 177 

,  hop 159 

,  keeping  up  an  aftergrowth 61 

,  improving  old 45 

,  pruning  old u 46,  48 

,  plan  of  arrangement  44 

planted  along  narrow  roadways 52 

,  planting  before  seeding  lawn 36 

and  care  of 58,  59 

,  preparation  of  soil  for  planting 54 

,  pruning  and  transplanting , 56,  57 

,  rules  for  grouping 65 

,  selection  of  varieties 50 

,  size  of  trees  to  plant „ 50 

,  time  for  planting 53 

,  watering  and  mulching 60 

with  colored  foliage 172 

cut  foliage 171 

weeping  forms 164 

round  heads , 142 

,  tulip 141 

Trumpet-creeper 218 

Tulips 239 

Turk's-cap  lily 239 

U 

Use  of  cellar 21 

Umbrella  magnolia 155 

V 

Van  Houtt's  spirgea 203 

Variegated  cut-leaved  maple 171 

dogwood 191 

flag..  .  256 


INDEX.  337 

PAGE 

Variegated  Japanese  plume-grass 260 

oak 1(53 

weigela 193 

Varieties  of  apples  300 

blackberries 308 

cherries < 305 

currants 310 

evergreen  shrubs 309 

grapes 307 

peaches 302 

pears 301 

plums 304 

quinces 304 

raspberries 309 

strawberries 312 

Vasey's  azalea , 187 

Virgin's-bower 214 

W 

Wake-robin  (Trillium) 235 

Walks  and  drives 89 

bordered  with  turf ,  .     38 

,  construction  of 94,  96 

,  direction  of 91 

,  how  to  obtain  curves  of 92 

,  importance  of 89 

,  improving  old 105 

,  location  of 90 

,  width  of 91 

Walls  and  fences,  removal  of 103 

Walnut,  black 143 

Water,  good  supply  of 8 

,  underground  outlet  of  lakelet 13 

,  open  outlet  of  lakelet 13 

Water-lilies,  hardy 252 

large-flowered 252 

rose-flowered 252 

,  hardy  yellow-flowered 252 

,  European 252 

,  tender  day-blooming 253 

night-blooming 254 


338  INDEX. 

PAGE 

Water-hyacinths 255 

Water-plantain 258 

Water-poppy  256 

Watering  trees  after  planting 60 

"  Well"  about  roots  of  trees 31 

Weeping  ash 167 

birch,  cut-leaved 165 

,  Young's 167 

dogwood 167 

elin,  Camperdown 171 

golden-bell 196 

Japanese  cherry 167 

maple,  Wier's  cut-leaved 164 

mulberry 168 

poplar 167 

trees,  list  of 164 

willows,  Babylon 169 

,  Kilmarnock 170 

,  Thurlow's 170 

,  purple 171 

Whale-oil  soap 264 

White  clematis , 216 

Japanese  nelumbium 252 

oak 160 

pine 180 

spruce 1 78 

willow 157 

wistaria , 217 

White-fringe 149 

leaved  linden 158 

Width  of  road-bed 115 

Wild  rice 257 

Winter  protection  of  roses 207 

evergreen  shrubs 210 

strawberries 311 

Wistaria,  Chinese 217 

,  white » 218 

Y 

Yellow  roses 209 

Young's  weeping  birch 167 

Yucca  or  Adam's  needle-and-thread  plant 237 


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"               "          "      "           "          Complete Svo,  350 


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7 


ENGINEERING. 

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8 


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THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
STAMPED  BELOW 


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JUN  26 


30m-6,'14 


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